(Topic ID: 200141)

JJP Pirates of the Caribbean Official Owners and Fan Club!

By goren1818

4 years ago


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  • Latest reply 13 hours ago by Izzy24
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Topic index (key posts)

20 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 17,643 posts in this topic. You are on page 348 of 353.
#17351 4 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

No hats or patches added to your High Score pics? Once I figured out the right head position, I could get them to pop on pretty regularly.

Yeah I do have a few of the hat and eye patch pics

#17352 4 months ago
Quoted from PinPeet:

Is the new code already released? Thank you!

No, whatever they've worked on is still in beta test. Nothing has been released.

#17353 4 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

No hats or patches added to your High Score pics? Once I figured out the right head position, I could get them to pop on pretty regularly.

Please advise on the head position. I haven't had a hat or eye patch in hundreds of games.

#17354 4 months ago
Quoted from statsdoc:

Please advise on the head position. I haven't had a hat or eye patch in hundreds of games.

I found that with my head it had to do with my chin position. Eyes facing the camera (no slightly side head position) and chin down or chin up substantially from straight on gave me the best chance at a hat and/or patch.

#17355 4 months ago

repeat

#17356 4 months ago
Quoted from Jecco74:

My chest is not releasing the balls during multi ball when I have several multi balls going at the same time. It releases the balls in single ball play. Has anyone had this happen and know what is causing it?

sometimes my balls are magnetized and have some difficulties to fall from chest

#17357 4 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

No, whatever they've worked on is still in beta test. Nothing has been released.

I whined to JJP when I got the email about all the software updates, but nothing for Pirates. I got a very nice response back:

"Pirates code version 1.0 is currently in beta. This version will allow for online connectivity, Scorbit, and additional features. I don’t have a release date yet but I know that it is close."

I hope they make some game improvements, too. Not sure that is in the plans or not.

#17358 4 months ago

For the ones who have installed PinGraffix blades, how did you do it?
- do you have to remove the playfield from the cabinet in order to install the PinGraffix blades? or not?
- do you have to use the wet or dry method, or it does not matter?
I recall the playfield is very tight in the cabinet and do not want to tear the blades when lowering the playfield, I have one PinGraffix set to install.

#17359 4 months ago
Quoted from ellips6:

For the ones who have installed PinGraffix blades, how did you do it?
- do you have to remove the playfield from the cabinet in order to install the PinGraffix blades? or not?
- do you have to use the wet or dry method, or it does not matter?
I recall the playfield is very tight in the cabinet and do not want to tear the blades when lowering the playfield, I have one PinGraffix set to install.

No, playfield can stay. Use the wet method and grab some blade protectors from pinball life.

Jeff

#17360 4 months ago
Quoted from ellips6:

For the ones who have installed PinGraffix blades, how did you do it?
- do you have to remove the playfield from the cabinet in order to install the PinGraffix blades? or not?
- do you have to use the wet or dry method, or it does not matter?
I recall the playfield is very tight in the cabinet and do not want to tear the blades when lowering the playfield, I have one PinGraffix set to install.

Quoted from jeffro01:

No, playfield can stay. Use the wet method and grab some blade protectors from pinball life.
Jeff

Any body Can provide pictures of potc pingraffix blades installed? I'm not sure, i have an hésitation between two!(its for a CE)

#17361 4 months ago

Hello everyone, I was a little fed up with not having any more power on my beaters after an hour. So I installed coolers for remote-controlled car electric motors on my spools. They clip perfectly (I just added a collar for fun) and splice the 5 volt nearby and the result is great !! It cost 10 euros each on Amazon. I strongly recommend it to you.

IMG_20220106_152428 (resized).jpgIMG_20220106_152614 (resized).jpg
#17362 4 months ago

Thats great! Can you share the Amazon link and maybe show where you got the power from (noob qustion )
Thank you! Merci Bien!

#17363 4 months ago
Quoted from PinPeet:

C'est génial! Pouvez-vous partager le lien Amazon et peut-être montrer d'où vous avez obtenu le pouvoir (question noob )
Merci ! Merci Bien !

Je vous recommande ce produit sur Amazon
RUIZHI RC Motor kühlkörper mit Lüfter für 1/10 Elektrische RC Auto 540/550/3650 RC Kühlkörper Lüfter(Schwarz) amazon.com link »

I made a splice on the card feed next to the ball lance, I hope it is clear enough in the photo.

IMG_20220106_170413 (resized).jpg
#17364 4 months ago
Quoted from Stef95:

Je vous recommande ce produit sur Amazon
RUIZHI RC Motor kühlkörper mit Lüfter für 1/10 Elektrische RC Auto 540/550/3650 RC Kühlkörper Lüfter(Schwarz) amazon.com link »
I made a splice on the card feed next to the ball lance, I hope it is clear enough in the photo.
[quoted image]

Thanks!

I believe this is the same cooler at Amazon US. I ordered and will verify.

amazon.com link »

#17365 4 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Merci!
Je crois que c'est la même glacière chez Amazon US. J'ai commandé et je vais vérifier.
lien amazon.com »

Yes it's the right model, it's just the color that changes !! A friend bought them gold color and installed them on his GNR because he had the same problem and he is super happy with it

#17366 4 months ago

Anyone heard from pingraffix? Waiting on so.e blades which he did get back to me but nothing this year when I contacted Joe again.

#17367 4 months ago

Great! Thank you very much for sharing!!
So you think this will work on Stern as well?

#17368 4 months ago
Quoted from PinPeet:

Super! Merci beaucoup pour le partage!!
Donc, vous pensez que cela fonctionnera également sur Stern?

It was nothing ! I have never had a stern but if the coils are the same diameter and the cooler comes into contact well there is no reason why it should not work. I played 3 hours last night with a friend and what happiness to be able to have correct performances during all this time .. It changes everything !!

#17369 4 months ago

Joined the cub today.

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#17370 4 months ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

Joined the cub today.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Very cool! I want your topper

#17371 4 months ago
Quoted from Tiltbob:

Very cool! I want your topper

That is a very cool topper. Don't let the CE owner's see it or they might get mad! LOL! Welcome and enjoy

#17372 4 months ago
Quoted from Stef95:

It was nothing ! I have never had a stern but if the coils are the same diameter and the cooler comes into contact well there is no reason why it should not work. I played 3 hours last night with a friend and what happiness to be able to have correct performances during all this time .. It changes everything !!

Since you're plugged into a circuit board to get power, and the heatsink is metal, I would suggest at least putting a 1A fast blow inline fuse on the power lead with this setup. If the heatsink metal breaches the wrapper of the coil and the windings below, it likely would create a short and blow out the board it's getting the power from. The fuse won't guarantee protection for the board, but it should limit damage if a short happens. And, with the shaker motor movement and flipper vibrations over time, this is not an impossible scenario.

#17373 4 months ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

Joined the cub today.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Another local pirate, ahoy!!!!

#17374 4 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Since you're plugged into a circuit board to get power, and the heatsink is metal, I would suggest at least putting a 1A fast blow inline fuse on the power lead with this setup. If the heatsink metal breaches the wrapper of the coil and the windings below, it likely would create a short and blow out the board it's getting the power from. The fuse won't guarantee protection for the board, but it should limit damage if a short happens. And, with the shaker motor movement and flipper vibrations over time, this is not an impossible scenario.

Could you suggest another power source or save setup?

#17375 4 months ago
Quoted from PinPeet:

Could you suggest another power source or save setup?

There's lots of places to get power, but if you're tapping off the boards, I'd fuse the connection, especially with a metal heat sink pressed against the coils. It's why I didn't go that direction with the Tibetan Breeze kits. I didn't think was safe long term. But if you do try it, fuse the power connection to add some safety protections.

#17376 4 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Since you're plugged into a circuit board to get power, and the heatsink is metal, I would suggest at least putting a 1A fast blow inline fuse on the power lead with this setup. If the heatsink metal breaches the wrapper of the coil and the windings below, it likely would create a short and blow out the board it's getting the power from. The fuse won't guarantee protection for the board, but it should limit damage if a short happens. And, with the shaker motor movement and flipper vibrations over time, this is not an impossible scenario.

The scenario your suggesting is not possible,if the heatsink does rub through to the coil windings it may blow a flipper fuse, the 5v being used to power the fan will not be effected as its isolated because the fan is plastic,its physically not possible to damage the 5v circuit

#17377 4 months ago
Quoted from Gibo:

The scenario your suggesting is not possible,if the heatsink does rub through to the coil windings it may blow a flipper fuse, the 5v being used to power the fan will not be effected as its isolated because the fan is plastic,its physically not possible to damage the 5v circuit

Metal coil to metal heatsink. Metal heatsink to metal screws. Metal screws to metal fan guard. That guard puts it very close to where the power leads are connected to the fan in the center. A sudden blast of 48v could make a couple mm gap jump. It's not impossible. So why not just insure your install with a fuse on the power side? Or don't. It's just advice (and I am cautious to a fault).

#17378 4 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Étant donné que vous êtes branché sur une carte de circuit imprimé pour obtenir de l'alimentation et que le dissipateur thermique est en métal, je suggérerais au moins de mettre un fusible en ligne à fusion rapide de 1 A sur le câble d'alimentation avec cette configuration. Si le métal du dissipateur thermique brise l'enveloppe de la bobine et les enroulements en dessous, cela créerait probablement un court-circuit et ferait exploser la carte à partir de laquelle il est alimenté. Le fusible ne garantira pas la protection de la carte, mais il devrait limiter les dommages en cas de court-circuit. Et, avec le mouvement du moteur de l'agitateur et les vibrations des batteurs au fil du temps, ce n'est pas un scénario impossible.

Hello, thanks for the tip. However, the metal thermal protection clips onto the coil without forcing, the addition of the collar does not allow vibrations to cut the coil insulation and even less the coil windings (well I imagine that this is very unlikely, see attached photo). I did not find in the manual other elements which are supplied with 5 volts to be able to feed them. I took apart a spare blower to see where an electric arc might go. From the screw to the wire directly from the heat sink to the fan motor or from the metal screw holder to the fan motor. I'll add a fuse just in case. This game takes a long time and I haven't found a better solution. At the end of an hour I could not even fit a marble in the trunk because the power of the beaters was weak. At least I can enjoy the game without getting frustrated in the middle of the game. If the main risk is friction and deterioration of the insulation of the coil and windings, I will dismantle the coolers every 10 days and I will check if this does not cause damage to the coil. And in that case I'll let you know.

IMG_20220109_150519 (resized).jpg
#17379 4 months ago
Quoted from PinPeet:

Is the new code already released? Thank you!

No still in beta2

#17380 4 months ago
Quoted from AMSNL:

No still in beta2

The neverending Story… such a behavior to constantly treat this game like the unwanted baby is absolutely not unterstandable from JJP… all other games constantly updated and a big campaign to push Scorbit with all other games within a few weeks and still no update to one of the best games…

#17381 4 months ago
Quoted from Demwyn:

The neverending Story… such a behavior to constantly treat this game like the unwanted baby is absolutely not unterstandable from JJP… all other games constantly updated and a big campaign to push Scorbit with all other games within a few weeks and still not update one of the best games…

I think that they had and they have a problem with this pin...

#17382 4 months ago
Quoted from Stef95:

If the main risk is friction and deterioration of the insulation of the coil and windings, I will dismantle the coolers every 10 days and I will check if this does not cause damage to the coil. And in that case I'll let you know.
[quoted image]

Checking every 10 days might be overkill long-term, but every now and then should be enough to see if you're getting any deterioration. How much you play it will also obviously factor into it as well.

#17383 4 months ago

Got it set up finally. Had a few problems. Wire came off interlock switch. Mini playfield was not working right. Had motor wires wrapped around shaft . So opto was not right.

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#17384 4 months ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

Got it set up finally. Had a few problems. Wire came off interlock switch. Mini playfield was not working right. Had motor wires wrapped around shaft . So opto was not right.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Which artblades did you put on it? Hard to see in pictures !

#17385 4 months ago

Just out of curiosity, but did anyone ever come up with another solution for the plunger issue hitting?
It was always either lift the playfield by bending the hooks slightly (I never did this) or put something between the playfield to raise it. I chose to this method, but unfortunately after doing so you can no longer latch the yellow lever properly.

Also, I can still see very clearly where the plunger is hitting the auto return so I definitely need to take it apart and see if I can't adjust it some.

Thanks all!

#17386 4 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I can still see very clearly where the plunger is hitting the auto return so I definitely need to take it apart and see if I can't adjust it some

I just delivered a GNR that had the plunger hitting the auto launch. JJP told guy to bend the auto launch

Now they are supposedly sending him a new auto launch

#17387 4 months ago
Quoted from Butch2099:

I just delivered a GNR that had the plunger hitting the auto launch. JJP told guy to bend the auto launch
Now they are supposedly sending him a new auto launch

Haha.. well .. Nice!

#17388 4 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Just out of curiosity, but did anyone ever come up with another solution for the plunger issue hitting?
It was always either lift the playfield by bending the hooks slightly (I never did this) or put something between the playfield to raise it. I chose to this method, but unfortunately after doing so you can no longer latch the yellow lever properly.

Also, I can still see very clearly where the plunger is hitting the auto return so I definitely need to take it apart and see if I can't adjust it some.

Thanks all!

The most likely solution is to loosen or remove the manual plunger housing/plate, slide it to the position you need it, and tighten it back down. There is usually a little room for adjustment with how it's mounted in the cabinet.

#17389 4 months ago
Quoted from Betelgeuse:

The most likely solution is to loosen or remove the manual plunger housing/plate, slide it to the position you need it, and tighten it back down. There is usually a little room for adjustment with how it's mounted in the cabinet.

Yea, I have done this before so will definitely need to do again.

I moved just around 2 months ago today actually so maybe it just got a little loose.

#17390 4 months ago

Bending the playfield hooks has always seemed like the “definitive” answer, but I have always been against doing…

#17391 4 months ago
Quoted from Jjlp:

Which artblades did you put on it? Hard to see in pictures !

Tilt graphics version I think . One side ocean other side tenticals . If you need a set I believe I still have one in stock .

#17392 4 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Bending the playfield hooks has always seemed like the “definitive” answer, but I have always been against doing…

Personally, I would only bend the hooks if it seems like the playfield isn't sitting close to level in the cabinet. I would bend the auto launcher before I would do that. It may take some real trial and error to get it right.

#17393 4 months ago
Quoted from Betelgeuse:

Personally, I would only bend the hooks if it seems like the playfield isn't sitting close to level in the cabinet. I would bend the auto launcher before I would do that. It may take some real trial and error to get it right.

For purposes of troubleshooting the plunger, I would be okay with not having an auto launcher at all... temporarily.

#17394 4 months ago
Quoted from AMSNL:

Tilt graphics version I think . One side ocean other side tenticals . If you need a set I believe I still have one in stock .

It is tilt Graphics

#17395 4 months ago
Quoted from Betelgeuse:

The most likely solution is to loosen or remove the manual plunger housing/plate, slide it to the position you need it, and tighten it back down. There is usually a little room for adjustment with how it's mounted in the cabinet.

That didn't work in my case

#17396 4 months ago
Quoted from Butch2099:

That didn't work in my case

Same here so I used my 3D printer to print some very thin shims that sit under my PF hooks which raises the PF just enough to give me a mostly functioning plunger and auto-plunger...

Jeff

#17397 4 months ago
Quoted from jeffro01:

Same here so I used my 3D printer to print some very thin shims that sit under my PF hooks which raises the PF just enough to give me a mostly functioning plunger and auto-plunger...
Jeff

I just stuck cabinet bumpers under the hooks. Re-level the pin after doing this.

#17398 4 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I just stuck cabinet bumpers under the hooks. Re-level the pin after doing this.

Yep, always level AFTER you've made any adjustments to the angle of the PF...

Jeff

#17399 4 months ago

On the mode "at world's end" I slam a level score 1248, 25 super jackpot and I double my characters with the "liar dice" and I prepare my super X times 6 and I lose my last ball... Maximum frustration!!

IMG_20220116_195413 (resized).jpg
#17400 4 months ago
Quoted from Stef95:

On the mode "at world's end" I slam a level score 1248, 25 super jackpot and I double my characters with the "liar dice" and I prepare my super X times 6 and I lose my last ball... Maximum frustration!!
[quoted image]

Wow!

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