(Topic ID: 200141)

JJP Pirates of the Caribbean Official Owners and Fan Club!

By goren1818

6 years ago


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  • 633 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 28 hours ago by Buzzie
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There are 18,885 posts in this topic. You are on page 287 of 378.
#14301 4 years ago
Quoted from Vitty:

Could you shoot me the parts you used to get your handle to do that? I've got the same cart and have been investigating how to more effectively use the handle without just taking it out and dragging it along

Get a pipe cutter from the hardware store for making the cuts - MUCH easier/cheaper than a hacksaw and under $10.

Aside from that here's the parts list copied from the HF thread.

4- Eye End Bimini Top Cap/ 1'' inner diameter/ Marine Stainless Steel (make sure these are 1 inch inner diameter)
2 - 1/4"-20 Hex Bolt
2 - 1/4"-20 Stop Nut
4 - 1/4" flat washer
4 - 1/4" flat washer nylon (make sure they are nylon, NOT RUBBER)
I got the 4 bimini caps on ebay for 26 total. You can find them on amazon and some marine supply shops as well. Unfortunately...Home Depot and Lowe's don't seem to carry them (at least, not any near me...and I live on a Lake. You would think they would have more "marine" supplies).
I got all the nuts, bolts, and washers for 2.08 at Lowe's. That means this mod is under 30 bucks. Im sure you could go cheaper...but go ahead and get good quality items. It is worth the 30 bucks.
Measure and mark 3.5 inches from the bottom of the handles with a sharpie (1 cut per handle. Use a hacksaw. You could go as little as 3 inches...but after testing repeatedly...3.5 inches is truly the sweet spot for handle usage and fold-down storage.) Cut the pieces.
Screw in bottom pieces (with the holes) with a 9/16 wrench.
Set up the bimini caps in the following pattern (pictured below as well):
Bolt, flat washer, nylon washer, bimini cap, nylon washer, bimini cap, washer, nut. Tighten with 1/4 wrench.
Connect bimini cap elbow mod onto top and bottom using the allen wrench. Make sure to face both bimini elbow joints the same way (as pictured), so they will fit. I also recommend connecting both bolt/nut setups in the same direction.

#14302 4 years ago

Much appreciated!

#14303 4 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Get a pipe cutter from the hardware store for making the cuts - MUCH easier/cheaper than a hacksaw and under $10.
Aside from that here's the parts list copied from the HF thread.
4- Eye End Bimini Top Cap/ 1'' inner diameter/ Marine Stainless Steel (make sure these are 1 inch inner diameter)
2 - 1/4"-20 Hex Bolt
2 - 1/4"-20 Stop Nut
4 - 1/4" flat washer
4 - 1/4" flat washer nylon (make sure they are nylon, NOT RUBBER)
I got the 4 bimini caps on ebay for 26 total. You can find them on amazon and some marine supply shops as well. Unfortunately...Home Depot and Lowe's don't seem to carry them (at least, not any near me...and I live on a Lake. You would think they would have more "marine" supplies).
I got all the nuts, bolts, and washers for 2.08 at Lowe's. That means this mod is under 30 bucks. Im sure you could go cheaper...but go ahead and get good quality items. It is worth the 30 bucks.
Measure and mark 3.5 inches from the bottom of the handles with a sharpie (1 cut per handle. Use a hacksaw. You could go as little as 3 inches...but after testing repeatedly...3.5 inches is truly the sweet spot for handle usage and fold-down storage.) Cut the pieces.
Screw in bottom pieces (with the holes) with a 9/16 wrench.
Set up the bimini caps in the following pattern (pictured below as well):
Bolt, flat washer, nylon washer, bimini cap, nylon washer, bimini cap, washer, nut. Tighten with 1/4 wrench.
Connect bimini cap elbow mod onto top and bottom using the allen wrench. Make sure to face both bimini elbow joints the same way (as pictured), so they will fit. I also recommend connecting both bolt/nut setups in the same direction.

Did you end up using loctite on those tiny bolts that seem to fall out so often?

#14304 4 years ago
Quoted from wesman:

Did you end up using loctite on those tiny bolts that seem to fall out so often?

No, but that's a good idea. You mean the shitty hex things for the bimini caps right?

#14305 4 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Not to get off topic, but the Harbor Freight lift project is a game changer. That plus Escalera and your pinball life is sorted out.[quoted image]

For sure need to invest in this one of these days. Every single time I have to move one it annoys me and I wish I had taken the time to do it.

Thanks for the kick in the butt

#14306 4 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Get a pipe cutter from the hardware store for making the cuts - MUCH easier/cheaper than a hacksaw and under $10.
Aside from that here's the parts list copied from the HF thread.
4- Eye End Bimini Top Cap/ 1'' inner diameter/ Marine Stainless Steel (make sure these are 1 inch inner diameter)
2 - 1/4"-20 Hex Bolt
2 - 1/4"-20 Stop Nut
4 - 1/4" flat washer
4 - 1/4" flat washer nylon (make sure they are nylon, NOT RUBBER)
I got the 4 bimini caps on ebay for 26 total. You can find them on amazon and some marine supply shops as well. Unfortunately...Home Depot and Lowe's don't seem to carry them (at least, not any near me...and I live on a Lake. You would think they would have more "marine" supplies).
I got all the nuts, bolts, and washers for 2.08 at Lowe's. That means this mod is under 30 bucks. Im sure you could go cheaper...but go ahead and get good quality items. It is worth the 30 bucks.
Measure and mark 3.5 inches from the bottom of the handles with a sharpie (1 cut per handle. Use a hacksaw. You could go as little as 3 inches...but after testing repeatedly...3.5 inches is truly the sweet spot for handle usage and fold-down storage.) Cut the pieces.
Screw in bottom pieces (with the holes) with a 9/16 wrench.
Set up the bimini caps in the following pattern (pictured below as well):
Bolt, flat washer, nylon washer, bimini cap, nylon washer, bimini cap, washer, nut. Tighten with 1/4 wrench.
Connect bimini cap elbow mod onto top and bottom using the allen wrench. Make sure to face both bimini elbow joints the same way (as pictured), so they will fit. I also recommend connecting both bolt/nut setups in the same direction.

OT: any chance you could post or PM me a close up pic of your lift handle connection?

#14307 4 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

OT: any chance you could post or PM me a close up pic of your lift handle connection?

Detailed album here:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B11GrhkPxG8hK2N

I built that cart so I could do the Radcal upgrade so there's pics of that in there too.

#14308 4 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

No, but that's a good idea. You mean the shitty hex things for the bimini caps right?

Yes. Those little bastards. They never stay in for me, and I end up using the smaller handle more than the extended one as a result.

Definitely going to get some locktite and lock them down for good!

#14309 4 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Not to get off topic, but the Harbor Freight lift project is a game changer. That plus Escalera and your pinball life is sorted out.[quoted image]

my hf cart has saved me from shit load of back pain. If you can't fork up the money for escalera or you live where you don't have any stairs, hf cart is golden.

#14310 4 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Yes, I modeled it? I'll share it on ThingVerse as soon as I'm done.

mind sharing the file? thanks

#14311 4 years ago

The Pinball Company is wrong. TZ is close to 300 pounds. All of Williams' DMD era wide bodies are around 300 pounds. Check the back of the flyers.

LTG : )

#14313 4 years ago

I did some adjustable cam levers on the handles instead of nuts, you can tighten and loosen them easily and the handle can stay in a position you like.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/modified-harbor-freight-lift-table/page/8#post-3852098

Oh and I used a grinder to cut the posts, easy.

#14314 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

The Pinball Company is wrong. TZ is close to 300 pounds. All of Williams' DMD era wide bodies are around 300 pounds. Check the back of the flyers.
LTG : )

I figured as much but couldn’t find anything else that gave a closer number.

Looked on ipdb at their flyers but they don’t have any with specs on them.

#14315 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I did some adjustable cam levers on the handles instead of nuts, you can tighten and loosen them easily and the handle can stay in a position you like.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/modified-harbor-freight-lift-table/page/8#post-3852098
Oh and I used a grinder to cut the posts, easy.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01DSGYZ5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_YBewEbY9V00ZD

So do these basically slot in between the bimini caps and then lock in? No other parts necessary?

It's been awhile since I did my mod....

#14316 4 years ago

Anyone interested in a huo CE edition? Send me pm

#14317 4 years ago
Quoted from Munsters:

Anyone interested in a huo CE edition? Send me pm

This Hector guy is looking....well, for NIB. But still.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/is-jjp-really-done-with-pirates-/page/4#post-5496428

#14318 4 years ago
Quoted from koops:

Looked on ipdb at their flyers but they don’t have any with specs on them.

They do, check last page of flyer and zoom in for weight. TZ didn't have it, but other wide body Williams DMD games do.

LTG : )

#14319 4 years ago

So I went to install side art (tiltgraphics - sea one.... Looks great) and it was a disaster. Never had an issue before
Long story short the pf caught onto the side art and got jammed ripping them both. Completely wasted.

For guys who have installed successfully is there a trick with pirates? Wet method had never failed me. 82 in the hole. Haha

#14320 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

So I went to install side art (tiltgraphics - sea one.... Looks great) and it was a disaster. Never had an issue before
Long story short the pf caught onto the side art and got jammed ripping them both. Completely wasted.
For guys who have installed successfully is there a trick with pirates? Wet method had never failed me. 82 in the hole. Haha

Honestly delt31 it’s really a crap shoot. JJP made these POTC games Crazy tight and many had this issue with art as well as mirror blades. Only suggestion that I use Only on this game is the side art plastic protectors sold by Pinball Life if I need to raise or lower the Playfield. Sorry your work was lost. I did black mirrors on mine as it looked appropriate but it Is hella tight.

https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html

#14321 4 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Honestly delt31 it’s really a crap shoot. JJP made these POTC games Crazy tight and many had this issue with art as well as mirror blades. Only suggestion that I use Only on this game is the side art plastic protectors sold by Pinball Life if I need to raise or lower the Playfield. Sorry your work was lost. I did black mirrors on mine as it looked appropriate but it Is hella tight.

Sounds good. Post a pic of the black mirrors curious how they look

#14322 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Sounds good. Post a pic of the black mirrors curious how they look

Post 4204 I posted pics as well as why you need the protectors.

#14323 4 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Post 4204 I posted pics as well as why you need the protectors.

I forgot how nice these look, and I don't normally dig mirror blades!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/85#post-4849351

#14324 4 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Honestly delt31 it’s really a crap shoot. JJP made these POTC games Crazy tight and many had this issue with art as well as mirror blades. Only suggestion that I use Only on this game is the side art plastic protectors sold by Pinball Life if I need to raise or lower the Playfield. Sorry your work was lost. I did black mirrors on mine as it looked appropriate but it Is hella tight.
https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html

I did the black mirrors on mine too. They look great! I wish I would have put them on some of my other pins

#14325 4 years ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

I did the black mirrors on mine too. They look great! I wish I would have put them on some of my other pins

I have a set of uninstalled black mirrors that I was going to install in mine, but the regular mirrors it came with also look so good, I left them in!

#14326 4 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I have a set of uninstalled black mirrors that I was going to install in mine, but the regular mirrors it came with also look so good, I left them in!

For sure! They don’t look a whole lot different.

#14327 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

They do, check last page of flyer and zoom in for weight. TZ didn't have it, but other wide body Williams DMD games do.
LTG : )

Tz was the one I was looking for

But yeah I do see the other wide body Williams ones. Ie. 300lb for Indy.

#14328 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

So I went to install side art (tiltgraphics - sea one.... Looks great) and it was a disaster. Never had an issue before
Long story short the pf caught onto the side art and got jammed ripping them both. Completely wasted.
For guys who have installed successfully is there a trick with pirates? Wet method had never failed me. 82 in the hole. Haha

I found installing the krakon/sea side art was very difficult and immediately damaged one side. Over time both sides ripped. I just recently removed the ripped ones, which were not as easy to get off as I had hoped, and installed new side art from PinGraffix. But this time I used the Wet method and it was SO easy. Also, the PinGraffix have large hinge holes so I didn't have to remove the hinge bolts. Came out perfect! I'm sure using the wet method with TiltGraphics would work just as well.
20200223_165426 (resized).jpg20200223_165426 (resized).jpg20200223_165432 (resized).jpg20200223_165432 (resized).jpg

#14329 4 years ago

I’ve torn my share of inner art decals including the right side decal on POTC during installation. I was so pissed I ripped the decal out of the game and threw it across the room, lol. Ended up repurchasing another set of Tilt Graphics decals to replace the torn decal on the right side, but haven’t gotten around to installing it yet.

I ripped about four sets in a row on different games before I figured out what was catching them and ripping them. It’s those slider brackets under the playfield that the playfield slides in and out of the cabinet on; they’re too close to the cabinet walls. So I went through most of my games and carefully bent the ends of those brackets inward just slightly to move them away from the cabinet. Problem was solved on all games after that. There are other things on the playfield that can catch the decals, but for me it was always those damn brackets.

I always use the wet method with dawn/water and a plastic credit card and that method works great. They sure look nice when installed, I can’t have a game without inner art decals now, lol
663F63CC-AD3A-4408-BA74-81B286AE0A01 (resized).jpeg663F63CC-AD3A-4408-BA74-81B286AE0A01 (resized).jpeg

#14330 4 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

So I went to install side art (tiltgraphics - sea one.... Looks great) and it was a disaster. Never had an issue before
Long story short the pf caught onto the side art and got jammed ripping them both. Completely wasted.
For guys who have installed successfully is there a trick with pirates? Wet method had never failed me. 82 in the hole. Haha

We used a VERY thin but large head "no stick" spatula between the game and the decal. Like one you'd use to flip pancakes. Mostly in the middle of the cabinet where the tolerances are so darn tight- keeping the decal from sticking to the cabinet while lining up everything and laying it down permanently. Worked wonderfully!

#14331 4 years ago

For the people that used side mirrors, will the B/W mirrors fit or do I need to buy JJP specific? Seems like B/W fit the other JJP machines.

#14332 4 years ago

I bought B/W from https://www.pinballdecals.com/MirrorBladesPage.html and they did not naturally fit my POTC CE. I had to trim about 1/8" off a small portion off the top-back to get it to fit the cabinet.

Quoted from ViperJelly:

For the people that used side mirrors, will the B/W mirrors fit or do I need to buy JJP specific? Seems like B/W fit the other JJP machines.

#14333 4 years ago
Quoted from ViperJelly:

For the people that used side mirrors, will the B/W mirrors fit or do I need to buy JJP specific? Seems like B/W fit the other JJP machines.

This is correct, B/W Mirrors do fit WOZ, TH, DI and (I think) Wonka. Maybe POTC is different in this regard

#14334 4 years ago

Yes, B/W will fit with some modifications as that is what I used on mine. Had to enlarge the bolt hole(s) a bit so that the top would drop as if you don't the glass will ride on the mirror blades.

#14335 4 years ago

Also just remembered that I had to cut about 1/2" off the back drop cut to make it fit.

#14336 4 years ago

I just got a Pirates LE from a fellow pinsider and I could not be happier - what a great machine. In anticipation, I've watched countless of hours of gameplay on youtube and looked at tons of pictures and I never once noticed the red light I have on my starmap. Red light comes on as soon as I power on the machine and seems to be behind the starmap but it's not one of the twinkling lights. It's on at all times.

I was just wondering if anybody knows if that light has any significance? Is it trying to tell me something ?

IMG_0586_LI (resized).jpgIMG_0586_LI (resized).jpg
#14337 4 years ago
Quoted from MountZion:

I just got a Pirates LE from a fellow pinsider and I could not be happier - what a great machine. In anticipation, I've watched countless of hours of gameplay on youtube and looked at tons of pictures and I never once noticed the red light I have on my starmap. Red light comes on as soon as I power on the machine and seems to be behind the starmap but it's not one of the twinkling lights. It's on at all times.
I was just wondering if anybody knows if that light has any significance? Is it trying to tell me something ?[quoted image]

AFAIK that is just power to the star map. Mine happens to be green.

#14338 4 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

AFAIK that is just power to the star map. Mine happens to be green.

Ah ok - thank you very much! I hoped as much, but wanted to ask anyway

#14339 4 years ago

Finally getting my sub in and WOW! Sounds so good but needed to use anti rattle tape on the glass

Next need to model an amp bracket and top case

1BB03E32-3E41-4943-835D-A75452F16419 (resized).jpeg1BB03E32-3E41-4943-835D-A75452F16419 (resized).jpeg
#14340 4 years ago
Quoted from MountZion:

I just got a Pirates LE from a fellow pinsider and I could not be happier - what a great machine. In anticipation, I've watched countless of hours of gameplay on youtube and looked at tons of pictures and I never once noticed the red light I have on my starmap. Red light comes on as soon as I power on the machine and seems to be behind the starmap but it's not one of the twinkling lights. It's on at all times.
I was just wondering if anybody knows if that light has any significance? Is it trying to tell me something ?[quoted image]

Red means not working. Green means working. No idea further than that, it's what I recall from the manual. It's definitely a status led.

#14341 4 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

AFAIK that is just power to the star map. Mine happens to be green.

Mine is always orange.

#14342 4 years ago

Hum. Someone look at the manual! I'll be home later and can look

#14343 4 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Finally getting my sub in and WOW! Sounds so good but needed to use anti rattle tape on the glass
Next need to model an amp bracket and top case[quoted image]

Is that a PinWoofer? I love mine in jjpotc

#14344 4 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Finally getting my sub in and WOW! Sounds so good but needed to use anti rattle tape on the glass
Next need to model an amp bracket and top case[quoted image]

4402A1AA-02C1-41FA-A103-681D440072B1.gif4402A1AA-02C1-41FA-A103-681D440072B1.gif
#14345 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Red means not working. Green means working. No idea further than that, it's what I recall from the manual. It's definitely a status led.

Hm, ok - thank you. The starmap lights are definitely working, during gameplay and in the lamp test. Didn't get any errors during boot-up either.

So I wonder what the red light might indicate as not working. Maybe I should email JJP and ask them.

#14346 4 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Finally getting my sub in and WOW! Sounds so good but needed to use anti rattle tape on the glass
Next need to model an amp bracket and top case[quoted image]

Awesome! Which sub model is that?

#14347 4 years ago

I was down in Florida for vacation and saw this Disney Tommy Bahama Pirates of the Caribbean Hawaiian shirt. It was pricey but had to have it. Will only play Pirates with it on lol.

20200229_184031 (resized).jpg20200229_184031 (resized).jpg

#14348 4 years ago

Most of my pins have the swirl style modfather shooter rod and to keep with that scheme, I wanted one for my Pirates pin that looked good with it. I chose the one listed for Theater of Magic that has swirls with the gold sparkles. It looks pretty good. Not interested in character heads. Just a FYI on how it looks. The pistol shooter rod from 'the other side of the pond' looks cooler, but I like this one.

20200228_193654 (resized).jpg20200228_193654 (resized).jpg
#14349 4 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Most of my pins have the swirl style modfather shooter rod and to keep with that scheme, I wanted one for my Pirates pin that looked good with it. I chose the one listed for Theater of Magic that has swirls with the gold sparkles. It looks pretty good. Not interested in character heads. Just a FYI on how it looks. The pistol shooter rod from 'the other side of the pond' looks cooler, but I like this one.[quoted image]

ModFather does make one specifically for POTC with small barnacle accents. Not sure if you seen that one. I got one and it fits the theme perfectly. Has a matching pingulp also. Love his original stuff.

#14350 4 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Will only play Pirates with it on lol.
[quoted image]

Heres hoping you also bought the matching pirate pants....... lol

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