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(Topic ID: 200141)

JJP Pirates of the Caribbean Official Owners and Fan Club!


By goren1818

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 16,093 posts
  • 541 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by LOTR_breath
  • Topic is favorited by 260 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

20 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 16093 posts in this topic. You are on page 283 of 322.
#14101 9 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Here ya go!
Alex Tech 10ft - 1 inch Cord Protector Wire Loom Tubing Cable Sleeve Split Sleeving for USB Charger Cable Power Cord Audio Video Cable - Protect Cat D amazon.com link »

Damn it! I put this type in. BP is still out of the game so I could easily swap it out for the mesh type. Did anybody use the one I used?

16B24751-884E-48F6-8C85-3EE72A69DAD9 (resized).jpeg
#14102 9 months ago

Anyone know the part number to the set screw that holds the gear to the motor shaft that turns the disc? I’ve had to tighten mine a million times, so finally I used loctite but it’s now spinning on the shaft again! I don’t think I can back it out or advance it at this point. If I’m seeing correctly there is another screw hole I could use if I can get a new screw? Any advice would be appreciated.

#14103 9 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Anyone know the part number to the set screw that holds the gear to the motor shaft that turns the disc?

Is it not shown in the manual ? Page C-56. You can download the manual from jerseyjackpinball.com - Support - Downloads - Pirates.

LTG : )

#14104 9 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Damn it! I put this type in. BP is still out of the game so I could easily swap it out for the mesh type. Did anybody use the one I used?[quoted image]

I think zaphX did! Is that a harder plastic, with a slit?

I only put the mesh in for malleability. I imagine you'll be just peachy!

#14105 9 months ago

Yep I used the plastic one, works perfectly.

#14106 9 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Yep I used the plastic one, works perfectly.

Yes! Great news!

#14107 9 months ago

I used the plastic type as well per zaphx and no issues so far anyways!

#14108 9 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

I imagine you'll be just peachy!

Where’s Joseph btw? Haven’t seen him post in a looong time!

#14109 9 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Is it not shown in the manual ? Page C-56. You can download the manual from jerseyjackpinball.com - Support - Downloads - Pirates.
LTG : )

Sorry. I can’t get it to download. Gets 3/4 then drops the connection

#14110 9 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Where’s Joseph btw? Haven’t seen him post in a looong time!

He had a few posts not too long ago.

#14111 9 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Sorry. I can’t get it to download. Gets 3/4 then drops the connection

Got it. Thanks.

#14112 9 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Sorry. I can’t get it to download. Gets 3/4 then drops the connection

Isn't there one in your game you can see on the big screen ?

80-002008-06 8-32 X 3/8" HWH Phillips MS Serrated ( #14 in the pictures )

LTG : )

DSC00198 (resized).JPGDSC00199 (resized).JPG
#14113 9 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Anyone know the part number to the set screw that holds the gear to the motor shaft that turns the disc? I’ve had to tighten mine a million times, so finally I used loctite but it’s now spinning on the shaft again! I don’t think I can back it out or advance it at this point. If I’m seeing correctly there is another screw hole I could use if I can get a new screw? Any advice would be appreciated.

I assume you are talking about the Small gear that drive the large map disk. First off Loctite does not work well for plastic from my experience. Second, that is not a spare set screw hole. They have by design (2) set screws in place to bit the shaft from both sides so it does not spin on the shaft. If you use both my guess is you will have no issues.

#14114 9 months ago

Loctote is for metal on metal. Plastic I would use tiny drop of superglue

#14115 9 months ago

I was in the impression that POTC would have support for Bluetooth, but as I connected a BT dongle (Asus USB BT-400) to the USB-slot (the one usually used for updates to the machine), it seems I cannot find the USB-transmitter with my BT-headphones. Apparently BT is not supported yet then?

Thanks for any info!

#14116 9 months ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Apparently BT is not supported yet then?

Not on any JJP pin yet. They are Beta testing what they are working on.

LTG : )

#14117 9 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Not on any JJP pin yet. They are Beta testing what they are working on.
LTG : )

Dialed In used bluetooth for the remote game control app...

#14118 9 months ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

Loctote is for metal on metal. Plastic I would use tiny drop of superglue

Quoted from Yelobird:

I assume you are talking about the Small gear that drive the large map disk. First off Loctite does not work well for plastic from my experience. Second, that is not a spare set screw hole. They have by design (2) set screws in place to bit the shaft from both sides so it does not spin on the shaft. If you use both my guess is you will have no issues.

Quoted from LTG:

Isn't there one in your game you can see on the big screen ?
80-002008-06 8-32 X 3/8" HWH Phillips MS Serrated ( #14 in the pictures )
LTG : )[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for all the help. I think I got it but I may have overtightened. I thought I heard cracking...

#14119 9 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Thanks for all the help. I think I got it but I may have overtightened. I thought I heard cracking...

If you have to buy a new gear you might as well get the disc silencer. It's great IMO.

https://themodcouplepinball.com/collections/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-custom-mods-collection/products/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-disc-silencer-kit-1

#14120 9 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Run it in Tests - Devices. Hook meter to motor leads. Youtube has lots of short videos on how to use a meter and testing voltage.
Have you made sure all connectors to I/O board are on tight ?
LTG : )

Tested as suggested. Unless I did something wrong, it looks like I'm not getting any power to the motor.

I already re-seated connectors on the main I/O board.

What about that little board connected to the motor. Any chance that thing is bad? Looks kind of hard to get to. Looks like the entire assembly can possibly be removed to get to the board and re-seat that connector. I have not done that yet.

Any additional thoughts?

#14121 9 months ago

Found this old pitted, rusty ball. Think I'm going to throw a couple in the game. Canonballs...make it feel more piraty. Yarr.

20200209_221324 (resized).jpg
#14122 9 months ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Found this old pitted, rusty ball. Think I'm going to throw a couple in the game. Canonballs...make it feel more piraty. Yarr.[quoted image]

We pray for your playfield

#14123 9 months ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

We pray for your playfield

I'm going to sell them as a mod.

Authentic canonball mod. $29

#14124 9 months ago
Quoted from gliebig:

I'm going to sell them as a mod.
Authentic canonball mod. $29

3F6BA2B2-8957-4CD8-897C-C79A38508E42.gif
#14125 9 months ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Tested as suggested. Unless I did something wrong, it looks like I'm not getting any power to the motor.
I already re-seated connectors on the main I/O board.
What about that little board connected to the motor. Any chance that thing is bad? Looks kind of hard to get to. Looks like the entire assembly can possibly be removed to get to the board and re-seat that connector. I have not done that yet.
Any additional thoughts?

One thing I have not done and should have is check some fuses associated with J109 (yellow wire) and J111 (blue wire). I'll update tonight after I get a chance to check those after work.

#14126 9 months ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

One thing I have not done and should have is check some fuses associated with J109 (yellow wire) and J111 (blue wire). I'll update tonight after I get a chance to check those after work.

Yep. Thats all that happened to mine long ago. One call to #LTG and all fixed.

#14127 9 months ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

One thing I have not done and should have is check some fuses associated with J109 (yellow wire) and J111 (blue wire). I'll update tonight after I get a chance to check those after work.

Measure power to the board the motor plugs onto too.

Fuses - F714, and F709. Page D-1 in the manual. If your spotlights work, those fuses are good.

LTG : )

#14128 9 months ago

Sadly, my fuses are good. I was really hoping to get home and find a blown fuse

And, yes, spotlights work as do the ramp LEDs and spinning pops. I'll try checking the board with the motor later.

#14129 9 months ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Sadly, my fuses are good. I was really hoping to get home and find a blown fuse
And, yes, spotlights work as do the ramp LEDs and spinning pops. I'll try checking the board with the motor later.

Only Asking as I did it wrong. Did you pull the fuses LTG mentioned and check them with a meter or simply go by the red lights? Mine Looked good till I pulled them. Just a suggestion.

#14130 9 months ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Sadly, my fuses are good. I was really hoping to get home and find a blown fuse
And, yes, spotlights work as do the ramp LEDs and spinning pops. I'll try checking the board with the motor later.

If I am reading the manual right, there are two fuses in line with the motor: F714 and F709.

Did you already check the 5 pin connector going to the motor relay board?

#14131 9 months ago

Yes, pulled fuses.

I re-seated connector on the motor relay board. No help.

After looking at this board a bit, I'm not sure how one would go about checking voltage to it. It is pretty easy to get to by simply disconnecting the rod and unscrewing the 2 screws holding it on.

Page D-86 in the manual shows the relay board. Sadly, I am not good with understanding a lot of electrical stuff, so it is not super helpful for me from a diagnosis standpoint.

Anyone that can tell me what leads to put the multimeter on and what setting on the multimeter? It would be nice to see if power is getting to that board.

Don't hate me for ignorance, lol.

Thanks,

Darin

#14132 9 months ago

More research...D-86 shows motor relay board receiving 12V power at pin 5 and pin 2 is black to the motor. I'm guessing the black is the ground to the motor.

So, if I wanted to test pins coming from the I/O board to the motor relay board, could I just unplug the female molex connector and put my multimeter black lead into pin 2 and then the red lead in pin 5 to see if I am getting power TO the board?

As far as I can ascertain, I am not getting power FROM the board. If I do test power getting to the board, would I be able to similarly test the other pins to see if I am getting signal? If so, what kind of setting on the multimeter would I use to test the other pins?

Again, thank you VERY much for the helpful teaching and suggestions.

#14133 9 months ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

More research...D-86 shows motor relay board receiving 12V power at pin 5 and pin 2 is black to the motor. I'm guessing the black is the ground to the motor.
So, if I wanted to test pins coming from the I/O board to the motor relay board, could I just unplug the female molex connector and put my multimeter black lead into pin 2 and then the red lead in pin 5 to see if I am getting power TO the board?
As far as I can ascertain, I am not getting power FROM the board. If I do test power getting to the board, would I be able to similarly test the other pins to see if I am getting signal? If so, what kind of setting on the multimeter would I use to test the other pins?
Again, thank you VERY much for the helpful teaching and suggestions.

Sorry you’re going through this, but I gotta admit this is all fascinating reading for me to maybe start to learn a bit about troubleshooting electrical & board stuff. I’ve been looking all this up in the manual diagrams as it plays out. It’s like it’s an episode of “CSI Pinball”. Hope you can get it resolved soon though.

#14134 9 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Sorry you’re going through this, but I gotta admit this is all fascinating reading for me to maybe start to learn a bit about troubleshooting electrical & board stuff. I’ve been looking all this up in the manual diagrams as it plays out. It’s like it’s an episode of “CSI Pinball”. Hope you can get it resolved soon though.

Why it is the only social network I’m on. It has propose

#14135 9 months ago

I might be understanding wrong. If your trying to test a connector on a board I always recommend getting at minimum alligator clips or even better a set of “spring probes”. It can be easy to accident prone more than 1 pin and that’s when bad things happen (Ask me how I know) With clips you can clip onto pin and be a lot more safe. If we’re just testing wires standard probes are fine.

#14136 9 months ago

I'm glad Darin's getting help but I feel this should be in the Tech thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues. The reason being that I would look there if I had a similar issue and wanted to read up on this investigation. OCD

#14137 9 months ago

I'm certainly happy to pop it over there. I just didn't want to duplicate stuff and it has morphed into more detailed tech stuff. Sorry for derailing this owner's club stuff.

#14138 9 months ago
Quoted from LesManley:

Hey guys and/or harryhoudini , does anyone know how to properly install Harry's Star Field map mod? I have an SE and I bought the lighted version. I assume I just use the double sided tape to adhere the LED plastic to the star field plastic and then bend it into place and install like normal? Only other question is where to pull power for the lights on an SE? I watched the videos so I know the basic installation, but I didn't see that it covers the lights at all, so any help would be super appreciated. Thanks!
On a side note, my Tortgua has started throwing it down the middle the majority of the time. I boosted the coil up to 28 even in the menu and it will still do it. I would like for it to kick out to the left flipper like I know it should. Any ideas for a fix there instead of dropping power to have it go to the right flipper?

Just a quick follow up to this for anyone else who maybe looking for answers. The scoop deflector had definitely come loose on my game. I couldn't believe how loose it was. I tightened down the screws and added blue locktite and that fixed the scoop shooting balls down the middle. Also used the trick where you remove the pop bumper cap and loosen the two screws underneath the pop bumper light board so you can move it to the side to access the scoop deflector screws without removing the entire assembly...very handy.

Also, for the lighted star map mod on an SE version, the power connector is bundled up in the split loom under the playfield, so you have to cut a couple zip ties to get it at and then connect it. Works and looks fantastic, very happy with it. I also used double sided thin tape I had on hand to keep the lightboard in place and then just friction for the star map plastic in front of it. No issues so far.

#14139 9 months ago

I hate the cheapo 2 plactic bumper caps that come stock so I bought 3d printed caps from 2 different companies but I realized I hate the ugly layer lines (I can't be the only one that thinks this) they leave on the finished product even more than the original. This is why fdm printers will never surpass resin printers in print quality imo. So I decided to tackle this since I love this game so much.

First I downloaded many different barrel designs from thingiverse but after printing all of them out with my sla printer, installing them one by one i found out that having 2 different lookings barrels in a came drove me crazy due to my ocd nature. So i made a mold of the stock barrel and made casts of the original and airbrush them and did panel lines and drybrushing to finish it off.

But this is where i need your opinion. I want to put few 3d printed things on the barrel to add some extra detail to top it off. I decided to add some dice to represent liars dice and the key for the trunk (spoiler alert) cuz that's the reason why they play liars dice on the movie. This is where I need ur input. I want to put a 3rd item to finish it and can't decide which one I like better. I found a cup with a cthuhu design on it and it kinda looks like davy jones so i think it fits the pin perfectly and other is jack's compass.

which one do you like better?
IMG_0214 (resized).jpgIMG_0218 (resized).jpgI'll paint them after deciding.IMG_0219 (resized).jpgIMG_0225 (resized).jpg

#14140 9 months ago

For anyone following my BP motor stuff, I just posted more info in the troubleshooting thread. Take a look and comment away.

#14141 9 months ago
Quoted from V4Vendetta:

... This is where I need ur input. I want to put a 3rd item to finish it and can't decide which one I like better. I found a cup with a cthuhu design on it and it kinda looks like davy jones so i think it fits the pin perfectly and other is jack's compass.
which one do you like better?

Nice! I like the cup along with the dice.

#14142 9 months ago

Man those are freakin awesome especially the dice, super detailed for how small it must be.
Since I've read your post, I can't unsee the layer lines on my pop bumper caps I got from mod couple. Damn you!!
I do prefer the dice cup over compass just because it's more cohesive. Why didnt' god give me little talent so I can do things like this so I don't have to pay???

#14143 9 months ago
Quoted from i_b_flippin:

Man those are freakin awesome especially the dice, super detailed for how small it must be.
Since I've read your post, I can't unsee the layer lines on my pop bumper caps I got from mod couple. Damn you!!
I do prefer the dice cup over compass just because it's more cohesive. Why didnt' god give me little talent so I can do things like this so I don't have to pay???

Amazing... I like the compass too, but would cry if a ball broke it.

#14144 9 months ago
Quoted from V4Vendetta:

I hate the cheapo 2 plactic bumper caps that come stock so I bought 3d printed caps from 2 different companies but I realized I hate the ugly layer lines (I can't be the only one that thinks this) they leave on the finished product even more than the original. This is why fdm printers will never surpass resin printers in print quality imo. So I decided to tackle this since I love this game so much.
First I downloaded many different barrel designs from thingiverse but after printing all of them out with my sla printer, installing them one by one i found out that having 2 different lookings barrels in a came drove me crazy due to my ocd nature. So i made a mold of the stock barrel and made casts of the original and airbrush them and did panel lines and drybrushing to finish it off.
But this is where i need your opinion. I want to put few 3d printed things on the barrel to add some extra detail to top it off. I decided to add some dice to represent liars dice and the key for the trunk (spoiler alert) cuz that's the reason why they play liars dice on the movie. This is where I need ur input. I want to put a 3rd item to finish it and can't decide which one I like better. I found a cup with a cthuhu design on it and it kinda looks like davy jones so i think it fits the pin perfectly and other is jack's compass.
which one do you like better?
[quoted image][quoted image]I'll paint them after deciding.[quoted image][quoted image]

Clearly I need to buy a resin printer...

#14145 9 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Clearly I need to buy a resin printer...

Liquid resin is nasty stuff. If you don't have very good forced ventilation, you risk health problems from long-term use.

#14146 9 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Liquid resin is nasty stuff. If you don't have very good forced ventilation, you risk health problems from long-term use.

That and while the result is awesome for pinball use the parts are like virtually printing in glass. Resin parts have No mercy for manipulation or a ball strike. We have printed many but you really can’t put them anywhere a ball could fly to.

#14147 9 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

That and while the result is awesome for pinball use the parts are like virtually printing in glass. Resin parts have No mercy for manipulation or a ball strike. We have printed many but you really can’t put them anywhere a ball could fly to.

Flex resin is a good option and will tolerate a lot of impact.

#14148 9 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

That and while the result is awesome for pinball use the parts are like virtually printing in glass. Resin parts have No mercy for manipulation or a ball strike. We have printed many but you really can’t put them anywhere a ball could fly to.

resin i used is called semi-rigid plastic resin. It has alot of give in terms of flexibility. I doubt a ball strike would do any damage. It might chip off the paint but that's about the maximum damage i can see it doing. I would be worried way more about a fdm printed item snapping along the layer lines if anything.

Quoted from bbulkley:

Flex resin is a good option and will tolerate a lot of impact.

that is the same resin I'm using.

#14149 9 months ago

Does anyone have an idea when the new Pirates code will come out of beta testing?

Just dying to try it, as not doubt all you salty sea dogs are.

#14150 9 months ago
Quoted from jrawlinson_2000:

Does anyone have an idea when the new Pirates code will come out of beta testing?
Just dying to try it, as not doubt all you salty sea dogs are.

Yes! We need the “C update” Scurvy is running rampant here on the Black Pearl

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