(Topic ID: 200141)

JJP Pirates of the Caribbean Official Owners and Fan Club!

By goren1818

6 years ago


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  • 18,810 posts
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  • Latest reply 16 days ago by insight75
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20 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 18,810 posts in this topic. You are on page 282 of 377.
#14051 4 years ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Back to the manual. Can Lloyd (or anyone) who can help point me in the right direction?

Page D-9 and D-10 in the manual are your opto driver board pinouts.

LTG : )

#14052 4 years ago

Anyone in need of a Pirates CE backglass? I just had mine replaced under warranty for a bit of spot flaking in a small area of the black border that surrounds the monitor. If someone is good at repairing, it is otherwise perfect. Figured I'd mention it in case someone was looking.

Nic

#14053 4 years ago
Quoted from Vitty:

Anyone in need of a Pirates CE backglass? I just had mine replaced under warranty for a bit of spot flaking in a small area of the black border that surrounds the monitor. If someone is good at repairing, it is otherwise perfect. Figured I'd mention it in case someone was looking.
Nic

PM sent

#14054 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Once the wifi is out and ready to go, it will allow you to connect your game to a wifi source so you can easily update the game that way. No more downloading, no more putting on a memory stick, no more putting memory stick in game. No more killing game if you screw up. No more calling me when you screw it up.
LTG : )

Very nice!

#14055 4 years ago

I hope the use the wifi for something more than updating the game. At least backups of game data, sharing of scores. Maybe bring your friends' scores to your machine. Remote tournaments (like zaphX did when we first got our games) with interactive video sharing, etc.

Can't wait!

#14056 4 years ago

My POTC LE has made its way to New York where it is currently being streamed!

Not to worry, I'm still a pirate - I got a sweet CE deal

Welcome a new pirate! http://twitch.tv/l33tsandman

#14057 4 years ago

Call me over-protective, but I saw a mark in front of the trough eject VUK on the wood. It was just a smudge, but with the pooling clearcoat issue, I predict that over some time that will be a problem area - maybe I'm paranoid about it. Before everyone was saying that you don't need a cliffy there as Eric designed the metal rails there in the plunger lane. I'm still feeling like it needs a cliffy there. So, I'm testing out a beta cliffy. I found that one from a different pin works out pretty good with just one minor alteration. I'll report back if Cliff is going to offer it (the modified one) or if people will need to order the other one and modify it themselves if they really want this. I feel better about it now.
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#14058 4 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Call me over-protective, but I saw a mark in front of the trough eject VUK on the wood. It was just a smudge, but with the pooling clearcoat issue, I predict that over some time that will be a problem area - maybe I'm paranoid about it. Before everyone was saying that you don't need a cliffy there as Eric designed the metal rails there in the trough. I'm still feeling like it needs a cliffy there. So, I'm testing out a beta cliffy. I found that one from a different pin works out pretty good with just one minor alteration. I'll report back if Cliff is going to offer it (the modified one) or if people will need to order the other one and modify it themselves if they really want this. I feel better about it now.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That's a good idea. Mine got a little ding in the clear in that same area. I used some clear Minwax Polycrilic to fill it in and it blended in and worked great, but it would be good to have protection there.

#14059 4 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Call me over-protective, but I saw a mark in front of the trough eject VUK on the wood. It was just a smudge, but with the pooling clearcoat issue, I predict that over some time that will be a problem area - maybe I'm paranoid about it. Before everyone was saying that you don't need a cliffy there as Eric designed the metal rails there in the trough. I'm still feeling like it needs a cliffy there. So, I'm testing out a beta cliffy. I found that one from a different pin works out pretty good with just one minor alteration. I'll report back if Cliff is going to offer it (the modified one) or if people will need to order the other one and modify it themselves if they really want this. I feel better about it now.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from EaglePin:

That's a good idea. Mine got a little ding in the clear in that same area. I used some clear Minwax Polycrilic to fill it in and it blended in and worked great, but it would be good to have protection there.

If anyone wants one of these cliffys for JJPOTC, Cliff said that he can hook you up with one based off of what I did. Email him at [email protected] and put a request in.

#14060 4 years ago

Oops responded to wrong thread

#14061 4 years ago

Hello!

Any idea why the flippers would score 3 points each time they are activated? I also get the Arrgggrrr pirate sound each time.

Was testing it before installing the BP for good. Not sure if I installed something wrong or what?

#14062 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Any idea why the flippers would score 3 points each time they are activated?

Tests - Switches - Matrixed - bang on playfield. Any switch register on the screen from vibration ? If so adjust it so it's less sensitive.

LTG : )

#14063 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Tests - Switches - Matrixed - bang on playfield. Any switch register on the screen from vibration ? If so adjust it so it's less sensitive.
LTG : )

None at all. I banged everywhere on the playfield in test mode. Activated all the switches by hand, all the optos, all good.

Ran a coil test, all good....

#14064 4 years ago

The only one that could be suspect (pretty sure it activated briefly) is one called “pop bumper Area rubber 17”

I bang on it now, it doesn’t activate....

#14065 4 years ago

I think I found it! It’s the leaf switch behind the rubber by the pop bumpers. Looks like they are too close to each other....back to confirm....

#14066 4 years ago

Problem fixed! It was the leaf switch. Thanks LTG!

#14067 4 years ago

I had the same issue a few months back but I got 30 points and a gold piece every time. Was same issue. D target leaf switch was stuck closed. Turned out to be getting caught on wire loom running down left side of bp ramp.

#14068 4 years ago

That can also happen when you put on new rubbers. I put on new Titan rubbers around the slings and the chapter selection area, and was scoring all the time. It just takes a bit for some rubbers to stretch out.

Its funny how odd that might sound when you don't realize the context.

#14069 4 years ago

Anybody know if washers go underneath this plastic on the posts?

Also, does anybody have any pics of how this shield is installed? Will it hit the cannon mod from Mod couple?

Any help is much appreciated

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#14070 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Anybody know if washers go underneath this plastic on the posts?
Also, does anybody have any pics of how this shield is installed? Will it hit the cannon mod from Mod couple?
Any help is much appreciated [quoted image][quoted image]

Is it the cannon shield from Pinball life? If so, I have it installed. Here's a link to a post I made about how it's installed. I don't have the mod so I don't know if it will hit it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/243#post-5196431

I don't think there are washers under the plastic.

#14071 4 years ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Is it the cannon shield from Pinball life? If so, I have it installed. Here's a link to a post I made about how it's installed. I don't have the mod so I don't know if it will hit it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/243#post-5196431
I don't think there are washers under the plastic.

It’s not from pinball life. It’s from a vendor in Germany I think. Thanks for the help!!!

#14072 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

It’s not from pinball life. It’s from a vendor in Germany I think. Thanks for the help!!!

Same one, from what I know. Pinball life got their's outsourced from that German site.

Be careful, as the guard can be slightly high, once installed, and jam the Pearl's movement. First time for me, it worked great. Second time when I removed the Pearl, and reinstalled it, it didn't....

#14073 4 years ago
Quoted from wesman:

Same one, from what I know. Pinball life got their's outsourced from that German site.
Be careful, as the guard can be slightly high, once installed, and jam the Pearl's movement. First time for me, it worked great. Second time when I removed the Pearl, and reinstalled it, it didn't....

Thanks! My question is: Is it really necessary? How often do balls end up getting trapped in that area?

#14074 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Thanks! My question is: Is it really necessary? How often do balls end up getting trapped in that area?

If you don't have a wire mesh around the Pearl's wiring underneath, I've heard it can happen every once in awhile.

I'd like to reinstall the plastic guard I bought, but it feels like it needs shaved a bit down.

#14076 4 years ago
Quoted from wesman:

If you don't have a wire mesh around the Pearl's wiring underneath, I've heard it can happen every once in awhile.
I'd like to reinstall the plastic guard I bought, but it feels like it needs shaved a bit down.

Wire mesh?

#14077 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Page D-9 and D-10 in the manual are your opto driver board pinouts.
LTG : )

Update on getting my LE up and running:

1. Coin door switch fixed: I removed the switch and tried a switch from LOTR which worked fine, so I knew I was dealing with a potentially bad switch. However, when I installed the JJPOTC switch in LOTR it worked. So, I'm guessing it was just a loose connection at the switch. Regardless, one more problem fixed.

2. All switches on column 9 now working. I have manually moved the disc connected to the BP motor and those 2 optos are working as well. So, I think all is well with switches.

3. Sadly, the BP is still not moving at all either in game mode or BP test mode. The motor is not bound up as I mentioned I can easily get the Pearl to move simply by manually rotating the disc which is connected to the rod and motor. I re-seated the connection on the board by the motor, the connector on the main board (J109)which I think is controlling the motor and one 2-pin (power connection, I think) connector coming off the motor and that little board. Not sure where to go next on this but at least I'm getting closer. Oddly, at one point when I was manually turning that disc the motor seemed to work for about 20 seconds. It seemed slow. Could I have created a little energy by turning that disc that then powered the motor for a moment or is that some evidence that the motor is getting some power? I have a suspicion that there is either something wrong with the motor or with power getting to it but not sure where to look next.

Also, just in case someone is wondering...I also ran could test of the pearl rock motor with the connector rod fully detached...no movement.

#14078 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Thanks! My question is: Is it really necessary? How often do balls end up getting trapped in that area?

I had a couple instances of hard bouncebacks off the Dauntless after firing the cannon that went under the Pearl and broke wiring to switches, so for me it's been good to have. It's blocked a couple of those bounces from going under the Pearl since I put it on.

#14079 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

It’s not from pinball life. It’s from a vendor in Germany I think. Thanks for the help!!!

Yep, based on the picture on the link posted it's the same one.

#14080 4 years ago

A loom you can buy, to put around the wires heading through the playfield. Helps protect them from chaffing, and errant balls. I bought mine from Amazon.

#14081 4 years ago

After many months of trouble-free game play, the left flipper on my black pearl is stuck up. It goes up immediately upon switching the power supply on. If I pull the interlock on the coin door it goes down after 1.5-2 seconds; I presume a capacitor somewhere is draining. Coil test for up and hold don't do anything. I haven't measured the voltage at the coil terminals yet because getting in there is difficult.

I've loosened the ship from the playfield but haven't yet fully removed it so that I could take a few pictures to look for a frayed wire, or something obviously shorting the contacts on the coil. I don't see anything. It is an interesting choice to use wire tires under there with wires that are constantly being slightly pulled and pushed. It's entirely possible I'm just not seeing it and I'm going to have to take the ship completely off (I'm dreading this).

I searched this thread for "black pearl flipper" and read many posts, but none thus far match my issue.

I'd appreciate any pointers to threads/posts with similar issues, and thoughts on how to proceed.

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#14082 4 years ago

Not sure if related, but I had a similar issue with my LOTR years ago. As I recall, it was something blown on the main board that I had to send off and get repaired. Hopefully not the issue here but something to keep in mind. I don't totally remember.

#14083 4 years ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Not sure if related, but I had a similar issue with my LOTR years ago. As I recall, it was something blown on the main board that I had to send off and get repaired. Hopefully not the issue here but something to keep in mind. I don't totally remember.

Yeah I was going to suggest the same.

Figure out which transistor feeds that flipper from the manual. Find it on the driver board.

Game power OFF! Use meter in ohms mode and compare to its neighbors. If it’s not roughly the same it’s toast and needs replacement.

#14084 4 years ago

That said I’d still pull the pearl and look for a short or loose wire. If the transistor is dead there is likely a reason.

#14085 4 years ago
Quoted from andrewket:

the left flipper on my black pearl is stuck up. It goes up immediately upon switching the power supply on.

Failed transistor on I/O board.

LTG : )

#14086 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Failed transistor on I/O board.
LTG : )

Thanks all!

#14087 4 years ago

Lloyd (or anyone), how would I go about testing with my multimeter if the black pearl rocker motor is getting power?

#14088 4 years ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Lloyd (or anyone), how would I go about testing with my multimeter if the black pearl rocker motor is getting power?

Run it in Tests - Devices. Hook meter to motor leads. Youtube has lots of short videos on how to use a meter and testing voltage.

Have you made sure all connectors to I/O board are on tight ?

LTG : )

#14089 4 years ago

I/O transistor or just because it’s easy, have you checked the flipper button switch to make sure it’s not simple closed at the cabinet?

#14090 4 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

I/O transistor or just because it’s easy, have you checked the flipper button switch to make sure it’s not simple closed at the cabinet?

I haven’t, but the flipper goes up immediately upon turning on the power, and the other left flippers don’t. I think both these things rule out the switch.

#14091 4 years ago

Had the same problem on my BP and it ended up being a transistor on the I/O-driver board. Was an easy fix if you know how to check transistors with a meter and soldering skills for replacement.

#14092 4 years ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

Had the same problem on my BP and it ended up being a transistor on the I/O-driver board. Was an easy fix if you know how to check transistors with a meter and soldering skills for replacement.

#14093 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Also, does anybody have any pics of how this shield is installed? Will it hit the cannon mod from Mod couple?

I actually have both installed. I put in the shield as I had a ball get pinned under my BP. I think that contributed to two wires that needed to be soldered back for the bonus switches. However, this could have been because their wires were too tight. A few others had the exact same issue so it was probably just that. Either way the shield gives me a little more peace of mind.

I put in the Mod couple cannon and found that it does need to stick on a little further out so it doesn’t interfere. It still works fine and I think it still looks great from the players perspective. I hope this helps.
51CA54CF-24DC-4DBA-ADDA-EF537960309D (resized).jpeg51CA54CF-24DC-4DBA-ADDA-EF537960309D (resized).jpeg

#14094 4 years ago
Quoted from Galooch:

I actually have both installed. I put in the shield as I had a ball get pinned under my BP. I think that contributed to two wires that needed to be soldered back for the bonus switches. However, this could have been because their wires were too tight. A few others had the exact same issue so it was probably just that. Either way the shield gives me a little more piece of mind.
I put in the Mod couple cannon and found that it does need to stick on a little further out so it doesn’t interfere. It still works fine and I think it still looks great from the players perspective. I hope this helps.
[quoted image]

Do you have any tips for the shield? I kept hearing creaking when I installed it, and it was tapping a bit the second time I place it back in.

#14095 4 years ago

Here ya go!

Alex Tech 10ft - 1 inch Cord Protector Wire Loom Tubing Cable Sleeve Split Sleeving for USB Charger Cable Power Cord Audio Video Cable - Protect Cat D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FW388KV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_YI1bYmXZFyrWB

#14096 4 years ago
Quoted from wesman:

Do you have any tips for the shield? I kept hearing creaking when I installed it, and it was tapping a bit the second time I place it back in.

Hmmm....I don’t hear any creaking or remember any issues installing. It was pretty straight forward and really only fit in one way. Since I had the wire issue, I made sure to run the BP calibration test to ensure there was no interference and it’s been fine ever since.

#14097 4 years ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

Had the same problem on my BP and it ended up being a transistor on the I/O-driver board. Was an easy fix if you know how to check transistors with a meter and soldering skills for replacement.

It looks like there is one massive I/O board, and if I’m looking at the right part the transistor is surface mounted. I can solder, but this will be a pain.

#14098 4 years ago

St Louis Area.. need someone to install cliffy’s on my POTC and some fixes. Can anyone recommend someone? Thanks

#14099 4 years ago
Quoted from andrewket:

and if I’m looking at the right part the transistor is surface mounted.

Through hole mounted. Maybe get help with this.

The manual coil chart lists the transistor number.

LTG : )

#14100 4 years ago
Quoted from Galooch:

I actually have both installed. I put in the shield as I had a ball get pinned under my BP. I think that contributed to two wires that needed to be soldered back for the bonus switches. However, this could have been because their wires were too tight. A few others had the exact same issue so it was probably just that. Either way the shield gives me a little more piece of mind.
I put in the Mod couple cannon and found that it does need to stick on a little further out so it doesn’t interfere. It still works fine and I think it still looks great from the players perspective. I hope this helps.
[quoted image]

Yes it does! Thanks!

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