Pirates of the Caribbean
Jersey Jack, 2018
Pirates of the Caribbean (CE)
Jersey Jack, 2018
Pirates of the Caribbean (LE)
Jersey Jack, 2018Quoted from thirdedition:Here is our Pirates SE stream from a couple of nights ago. This is with beta 1.02 code.
oh hey 
i have seen a bunch of your streams - great work first of all! i didnt notice you had the SE. thanks for sharing
Hmmm. Getting around to getting my LE running. Bought a while ago and knew it had issues. Life is busy but chipping away at issues.
Next big job will be taking off the pearl to install cliffy and such and do the chest mod. Before that though, the game thinks door is open when it is not. Checking switches and neither door closed switch registers. Everything looks okay except one broken connector on a coin mech and a few loose wires that I don’t know the function for.
I would not think that is my issue.
20DABADE-A762-44E7-BD4D-8F496CD43B20 (resized).jpeg68EAA5B3-4461-4BC1-B7FC-230C3F0E3544 (resized).jpeg71F7D3A5-BB8A-4C22-A160-690C4564C0BA (resized).jpegEB536AA8-6ACA-47CD-8EC3-F5E95E8F2247 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from VolunteerPin:Hmmm. Getting around to getting my LE running. Bought a while ago and knew it had issues. Life is busy but chipping away at issues.
Next big job will be taking off the pearl to install cliffy and such and do the chest mod. Before that though, the game thinks door is open when it is not. Checking switches and neither door closed switch registers. Everything looks okay except one broken connector on a coin mech and a few loose wires that I don’t know the function for.
I would not think that is my issue.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
This machine looks like it has been butchered. There should be two white plungers inside the coin door, one that detects door open/closed and one which is important for safety that kills high voltage when the door is open.
Review the lower cabinet wiring diagram (D-92 in the manual) and un-F whatever hackery happened there.
Quoted from VolunteerPin:Hmmm. Getting around to getting my LE running. Bought a while ago and knew it had issues. Life is busy but chipping away at issues.
Next big job will be taking off the pearl to install cliffy and such and do the chest mod. Before that though, the game thinks door is open when it is not. Checking switches and neither door closed switch registers. Everything looks okay except one broken connector on a coin mech and a few loose wires that I don’t know the function for.
I would not think that is my issue.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I took a couple pictures of mine for reference. Hope this helps.
09FC9D77-1DE3-40B8-A06D-00B4185D7B79 (resized).jpegA2DC7AD8-B8A6-4F0E-B0CA-072F76D3028B (resized).jpegEF94C8E0-0069-4E69-81F0-0D270D373CBE (resized).jpeg39913A50-EBDA-4810-8E5D-DEAE03E1F193 (resized).jpegQuoted from EaglePin:I took a couple pictures of mine for reference. Hope this helps.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice assist! Way to step up.
Quoted from zaphX:d[quoted image]
The coin door leds run on a lower voltage, so I'm guessing the previous owner tapped into those for running some 9V item?
Quoted from VolunteerPin:Also, coin door open and ticket mech which is not installed showing as active regardless of door position. Again, the door close button does not work in switch test mode either.[quoted image]
Total guess but as you don’t Have a ticket mech it may be looking for it. I believe this is disabled via software but someone else may be able to confirm. As for the door switch open, trigger it with your finger. If it doesn’t work you know the direction to head.
It does not work on switch test.
I could not find the ticket dispenser listed. It does make me wonder as This pin was routed at a fun center by first owner. When I got the pin the coin mechs had been literally ripped off the front door which made no sense to me but maybe that had something to do with a ticket dispenser. Really I have no idea.
Arrrrrrrgh!!!!! So close. So effing close to completing all 5 chapters. Got to 22 chapters played. Only ran 2 wizard modes. Dumb drains ended both early. A couple wicked drains to finish the game cut me short of 25 chapters. The past couple weeks I’ve felt like it’s within reach though. This was by far my personal best game.
Pics are end of true first ball with no extra ball, start of ball 2 after EBs and start of ball 3 after EBs. Default settings and posts positions with EB for Special (didn’t come into play) and for replay. Someone posted a few day ago that it would be nice to see the screen showing chapters played when the game is over. That would be a nice thing to have.
D09A4B2B-5025-4FE5-8AEC-CD725E314FD4 (resized).jpeg10D22913-F03C-44B0-BF6A-6D79F88AA8FF (resized).jpeg12484AE0-37E9-441E-9A7E-B02EB154C937 (resized).jpeg89855875-8523-4B8A-8FC8-57DD5A238715 (resized).jpeg2D499086-5BB8-4090-AC79-A167CC8CA74E (resized).jpegNICE! Still looking forward to getting my first game played, lol.
Does anyone have a link to how the Cliffy set gets installed? I have my pearl off and ready to get these in but can't seem to find any info
Quoted from VolunteerPin:NICE! Still looking forward to getting my first game played, lol.
Does anyone have a link to how the Cliffy set gets installed? I have my pearl off and ready to get these in but can't seem to find any info
Quoted from VolunteerPin:NICE! Still looking forward to getting my first game played, lol.
Does anyone have a link to how the Cliffy set gets installed? I have my pearl off and ready to get these in but can't seem to find any info
No link for it. Depths is straightforward, just clip it on. Here's a link to a post I made about the map hole cliffy:
The thing to check there before you wrap everything up is that the map hole deflector is lined up straight and that it doesn't have any wiggle to it, so it's locked tight in place with the cliffys on.
For the Tortuga scoop, check the threads for info on loosening the pop bumper to put it on.
Quoted from Highscoresaves:I'd recommend Firebird Pinball. Kris is just awesome
He won't work on JJP machines the last I talked to him... I've used Firebird for my Bride of Pinbot, Whitewater, Simpsons Pinball Party, Road Show and he's bee awesome, but unless he's changed his mind he doesn't really like JJP. I think with them having more and more pins being released he's going to have to finally start servicing them.
Quoted from benbethel:He won't work on JJP machines the last I talked to him...
You might talk to him again. If he can service Williams DMD pins, he can service a JJP game. They just snuck a motherboard and SSD in there. Mostly Williams parts/mechs, even wiring colors are similar.
And if he's worked on any pin with a color DMD/LCD in it, nothing in the backbox should scare him.
LTG : )
Well, I have the Map Cliffy installed. So far so good.
Put mylar in the map area and now going to wax under the pearl before putting back in.
The one way gate on my VUK was hanging by a thread and in fact I thought it was broke but after I looked at the diagram in the manual I think I'm good. I don’t really understand what good it is doing like this however. Do I have this correct?
Quoted from VolunteerPin:Well, I have the Map Cliffy installed. So far so good.
Put mylar in the map area and now going to wax under the pearl before putting back in.
The one way gate on my VUK was hanging by a thread and in fact I thought it was broke but after I looked at the diagram in the manual I think I'm good. I don’t really understand what good it is doing like this however. Do I have this correct?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Yeah, you want to get that gate replaced with one that has more wire sticking through the assembly on the left side. It's essentially broken from the looks of things.
Did you take the gate off? It's on backwards. The long part on the right should be UNDER the metal flap on the assembly, so it will open up as a ball is shot up and then snap back, blocking the path down and guiding balls that didn't make it out onto the playfield again.
Quoted from VolunteerPin:Also, coin door open and ticket mech which is not installed showing as active regardless of door position. Again, the door close button does not work in switch test mode either.[quoted image]
Do you have a multimeter? The first step is to see if you have continuity from the switch to the place where it plugs into the I/O board. The coin door switch is J604 connector. So one end of the wire on the switch and the other on J604, pin 6 (violet/brown) and see if you have continuity. If you don't (I suspect you won't as operators like to cut and hack), then the problem is likely the wire somewhere between J604 and the button. If you DO have continuity, then it's likely a board issue.
In switch test mode, if you trigger the plumb bob tilt manually, and the start button, cabinet front headphone vol up, vol down, and action button switch, do they all work?
yes, other switches in the column do indeed work.
that makes more sense on the VUK lol. It was like this but hanging loose when i got the pin.
Is Mylar in the map area recommended? I’d assume it’s a good idea since it’s got a magnet under there that throws the ball around. That’s the one thing I didn’t add when I had my game apart as I didn’t know how the game behaved in that area until after it was all back together
Quoted from VolunteerPin:yes, other switches in the column do indeed work.
that makes more sense on the VUK lol. It was like this but hanging loose when i got the pin.
Yeah, I'd check continuity of that wire from the switch to the J604 pin 6 connector in the backbox to make sure the wire is connected and not cut or shorted somewhere. I vote that it was cut somewhere, because a LOT of old-school operators are weird and not careful about what they need to do to achieve their objectives.
Quoted from Vitty:Is Mylar in the map area recommended? I’d assume it’s a good idea since it’s got a magnet under there that throws the ball around. That’s the one thing I didn’t add when I had my game apart as I didn’t know how the game behaved in that area until after it was all back together
Not a bad idea given the amount of ball action. I'm actually surprised that JJP didn't mylar that area given all the areas they DID mylar:
jjpotc-mylar areas (resized).jpgI have an "issue" and I'm wondering if this is the norm for JJP games. When I remove the lockbar.....once removed, the glass will very easily fall away from the cabinet.
On other machines, after removing the lockbar, the glass may slide a few inches or so. Then I need to slide the rest out myself. On my POTC, if I'm not there to "catch" the glass, it would fall right out by itself. Is that normal or not?
Quoted from Moomert1:Is that normal or not?
Varies from game to game. I have some you have to pull hard to get out, and some that try to run away as soon as I lift the lockdown bar.
LTG : )
Quoted from Moomert1:I have an "issue" and I'm wondering if this is the norm for JJP games. When I remove the lockbar.....once removed, the glass will very easily fall away from the cabinet.
On other machines, after removing the lockbar, the glass may slide a few inches or so. Then I need to slide the rest out myself. On my POTC, if I'm not there to "catch" the glass, it would fall right out by itself. Is that normal or not?
Varies from machine to machine, but not abnormal. Just depends on how tight the glass channel in the rails is to the glass.
If I have to step away and do something with the lockdown bar, I usually just put my pocketknife blade in one of the holes below the lockdown bar to provide a barrier to the glass escaping.
Quoted from Moomert1:I have an "issue" and I'm wondering if this is the norm for JJP games. When I remove the lockbar.....once removed, the glass will very easily fall away from the cabinet.
On other machines, after removing the lockbar, the glass may slide a few inches or so. Then I need to slide the rest out myself. On my POTC, if I'm not there to "catch" the glass, it would fall right out by itself. Is that normal or not?
happens on lots of games, JJP, Stern, WMs games, etc. It's just a variation in the installation of the side rail plastic channel. If it really bugs you, you can add a bit of electrical tape to the top corners of the glass, where its' not visible when fully installed. Or you can add a run of felt down the channel plastic. just make sure it's installed fully inside the channel itself, and doesn't come out whatsoever. Make sure you start it closest to the bottom, and go up as far as you want. If you install it farther up, the glass can catch on it and pull it off.
Quoted from PinMonk:Varies from machine to machine, but not abnormal.
Quoted from LTG:Varies from game to game.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:happens on lots of games, JJP, Stern, WMs games, etc.
Thanks for the responses. Makes me feel better knowing this.
Quoted from Moomert1:I have an "issue" and I'm wondering if this is the norm for JJP games. When I remove the lockbar.....once removed, the glass will very easily fall away from the cabinet.
On other machines, after removing the lockbar, the glass may slide a few inches or so. Then I need to slide the rest out myself. On my POTC, if I'm not there to "catch" the glass, it would fall right out by itself. Is that normal or not?
Mine is the opposite. Super tight, like LTG mentioned. Have to get my fingers sweaty/wet just to slide it down.
Quoted from wesman:I did place mylar over the sling areas, under the posts. Is there an easy way to remove that, to try this technique under those posts? (Along with several others I didn't mylar.) I know in the past I've seen people use an aerosol type of freezing spray.
Posted this a week or so ago. Anyone have any tips?
I'm reading that a hair dryer is good, regarding using heat to remove mylar.
Quoted from wesman:Posted this a week or so ago. Anyone have any tips?
I'm reading that a hair dryer is good, regarding using heat to remove mylar.
1) why do you want to remove it?
2) always wax immediately before you place Mylar - Makes it a snap to remove.
There’s about equal footing between the heat and the freeze people. I have no empirical evidence for this but it seems to me that The freeze method is less damaging to the art and clearcoat.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:1) why do you want to remove it?
2) always wax immediately before you place Mylar - Makes it a snap to remove.
There’s about equal footing between the heat and the freeze people. I have no empirical evidence for this but it seems to me that The freeze method is less damaging to the art and clearcoat.
Freeze is less chance for damage since it removes the adhesive from the mylar and you just clean that up separately. Heat is a bad idea, especially for stubborn mylar.
Quoted from VolunteerPin:Well, I have the Map Cliffy installed. So far so good.
Put mylar in the map area and now going to wax under the pearl before putting back in.
The one way gate on my VUK was hanging by a thread and in fact I thought it was broke but after I looked at the diagram in the manual I think I'm good. I don’t really understand what good it is doing like this however. Do I have this correct?
[quoted image][quoted image]
While you have the Pearl off, you might want to consider putting a post sleeve on the post that is the left front entrance to the star map area. Doing so protects the corner of the rubber on that post so it doesn't take a beating and it won't need to be replaced nearly as often (and it's a pain to get to). Here's a forum post about it:
Here's the sleeve I put on mine:
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:1) why do you want to remove it?
2) always wax immediately before you place Mylar - Makes it a snap to remove.
There’s about equal footing between the heat and the freeze people. I have no empirical evidence for this but it seems to me that The freeze method is less damaging to the art and clearcoat.
Because I noticed on the slings, it seems like they're bubbling around the star posts I put down....even after I put mylar circles down. Crazy....
So I thought I could lift those, and then use my mew new pinball iron to press them down permanently.
What kind of freezy method do people use?
Quoted from wesman:Because I noticed on the slings, it seems like they're bubbling around the star posts I put down....even after I put mylar circles down. Crazy....
So I thought I could lift those, and then use my mew new pinball iron to press them down permanently.
What kind of freezy method do people use?
Honestly if you search Mylar removal you will have Thousands of posts on how to. Personally based on what you said if the art and clear Are bubbling there I would NOT dry to pull that Mylar as I would bet you will fully tear the weak clear and art. But that’s me. Remove all parts, clean area well, and apply iron press to the bubbles area. It Will reseat the pooling and any Mylar adhesive that has released. That’s my suggestion anyway.
Quoted from Yelobird:Honestly if you search Mylar removal you will have Thousands of posts on how to. Personally based on what you said if the art and clear Are bubbling there I would NOT dry to pull that Mylar as I would bet you will fully tear the weak clear and art. But that’s me. Remove all parts, clean area well, and apply iron press to the bubbles area. It Will reseat the pooling and any Mylar adhesive that has released. That’s my suggestion anyway.
I did read a bunch on mylar removal, figured I'd ask around, as a few pros like yourself haunt this thread, luckily!
So.....I can actually use the iron over the existing mylar, without having to remove it?
Quoted from wesman:I did read a bunch on mylar removal, figured I'd ask around, as a few pros like yourself haunt this thread, luckily!
So.....I can actually use the iron over the existing mylar, without having to remove it?
I wouldn't remove it - this is one of those things that can quickly go wrong.
but if you're going to do the iron, the mylar's probably going to melt and turn into a big gross mess, so you'll have to decide how badly you want to do the ironing.
Quoted from wesman:I did read a bunch on mylar removal, figured I'd ask around, as a few pros like yourself haunt this thread, luckily!
So.....I can actually use the iron over the existing mylar, without having to remove it?
Having used the iron for setting some bubbles in mylar patches myself you will have no issues. Just Go slow. Press for 2 seconds, remove. If the playfield or Mylar is to hot to touch with your finger your hitting it to long. Short hot presses and move to a new spot. I think you’ll do fine just don’t rush to finish in 2 minutes. Good luck.
Quoted from Yelobird:Having used the iron for setting some bubbles in mylar patches myself you will have no issues. Just Go slow. Press for 2 seconds, remove. If the playfield or Mylar is to hot to touch with your finger your hitting it to long. Short hot presses and move to a new spot. I think you’ll do fine just don’t rush to finish in 2 minutes. Good luck.
Yelobird is the iron any different than using hairdryer/heat gun (for pooling removal)?
Quoted from cooked71:yelobird is the iron any different than using hairdryer/heat gun (for pooling removal)?
Much different. It’s a focused heat repair. I suggest looking through the how to thread as it highlights the exact process. I have done well over 100 posts for friends and had 0 issue nor problem returning.
Quoted from Yelobird:Having used the iron for setting some bubbles in mylar patches myself you will have no issues. Just Go slow. Press for 2 seconds, remove. If the playfield or Mylar is to hot to touch with your finger your hitting it to long. Short hot presses and move to a new spot. I think you’ll do fine just don’t rush to finish in 2 minutes. Good luck.
So you've obviously heated these spots with mylar already on, it seems?
Man, I do appreciate the wisdom of experience. I never quite feel like I have the confidence of you folks that have been in this hobby for years. It's definitely appreciated! 
Quoted from Yelobird:Much different. It’s a focused heat repair. I suggest looking through the how to thread as it highlights the exact process. I have done well over 100 posts for friends and had 0 issue nor problem returning.
Where's the link for the tool again?
Quoted from cooked71:Where's the link for the tool again?
Permatex 81781 Ultra Series Vinyl and Leather Repair Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007TQWK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Vl4nEbDXW9H0S
Quoted from cooked71:Where's the link for the tool again?
You are going to also need a 110v converter (Kogan has a cheap one). One of the aa guys is selling one of the extra tools (is already ordered mine before he listed it).
Quoted from Dexje:oh hey i have seen a bunch of your streams - great work first of all! i didnt notice you had the SE. thanks for sharing
Not a problem, thanks for tuning in we appreciate the support.
Quoted from Green-Machine:Joining the club today! What is the latest code? Just curious if I’m up to date[quoted image]
0.99 but the next version is being beta tested now..
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