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(Topic ID: 200141)

JJP Pirates of the Caribbean Official Owners and Fan Club!


By goren1818

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 15,856 posts
  • 537 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 38 minutes ago by chaz009
  • Topic is favorited by 257 Pinsiders

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There are 15856 posts in this topic. You are on page 28 of 318.
#1351 1 year ago
Quoted from pickleric:

I am getting this as well Nick. The EOS was closed without the left flipper activated originally, there was no gap at rest.
I adjusted the EOS so that it is open and closes once the left flipper activates.
Still getting the #D04 EOS stuck open in Test Report. Did you ever figure yours out?
[quoted image][quoted image]

I took the glass off and put it in switch test. Manually touched the switches together and didn't get a response. So something else is going on, not sure what.

#1352 1 year ago
Quoted from sirlonzelot:

If it hangs : Get some wd40 from the underside in there
If it didn’t register: loosen the screws from the switch a Bit

Jamming up. Have to bang on the lock bar to get it back out.

#1353 1 year ago

My Ramp is a little bit to high and the Ball get stucked often at the Mini PF.

How can i set the Ramp lower?

IMG_20181202_193507298 (resized).jpgIMG_20181202_193519260 (resized).jpgIMG_20181202_193534715 (resized).jpg
#1354 1 year ago

Forgot the Pic with the ball

IMG_20181202_195103510 (resized).jpg
#1355 1 year ago
Quoted from sirlonzelot:

If it hangs : Get some wd40 from the underside in there
If it didn’t register: loosen the screws from the switch a Bit

Thanks for the suggestion. Did as you said but used a dab of white lithium grease, should hold up a bit longer than the wd40. Works perfect now! Back to collecting gold.

#1356 1 year ago
Quoted from sirlonzelot:

Get some wd40 from the underside in there

Don't get any on the plastic button. It will weld it shut.

LTG : )

#1357 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Don't get any on the plastic button. It will weld it shut.
LTG : )

Just put a small dab of white lithium grease on bottom side of shaft with button fully depressed. Nothing from top side on actual button. Seems to have worked, button is now smooth as butter.

#1358 1 year ago
Quoted from moTiv8:

How can i set the Ramp lower?

See the red arrow ? Turn that screw tighter squishing the rubber grommet and thus lowering the right side of the ramp. The ramp should lean a little to the right.

LTG : )

DSC00679 (resized).JPG

#1359 1 year ago

Thx LTG.

Will try it tomorrow.

#1360 1 year ago
Quoted from Procrastinator:

You need to tighten the nut that holds the flipper shaft in place. One of mine did the same thing, and I moved it into the correct position by hand then tightened the nut that clamps down on the shaft. It’s a little difficult on the right side of the ship, but if you pull the cotter pin in the back it’s doable without removing the ship.

Well you guys were correct. I didn't know which screw you were referencing, but I figured out its this one (see pic).
That's looking upward, underneath the upper right flipper on the ship. The nut was actually tight, but maybe not tight enough. I loosened it, allowed the flipper to spring backwards against the rubber stop and then tightened the nut again with a nut driver. The fix was really simple...but...

I pulled the ship out all the ways anyways. I didn't disconnect all of the wiring harnesses underneath because I was able to swivel the ship (VERY CAREFULLY) out of the way. There's stuff on top of the playfield that is in the way of maneuvering the ship off to the side and there's nowhere really safe to put it unless you disconnect the harnesses underneath the playfield. I wouldn't say removing the upper playfield ship is as easy as Eric says it is. Yes, it's just the hex screw behind the ship and the cotter pin from the arm behind the playfield...but, then there's the wiring harnesses underneath that are inconveniently zipped-tied very compactly...and its a challenge to find anywhere to safely place the playfield w/o resting it on some fragile plastics.

Question: In test now, my ship rocks full -right and -left, but it seems limited in rocking movement to the full-right position during play. Is that normal? Is the rocking motion/envelope dependent on character or mode?

IMG_6645 (resized).jpg

#1361 1 year ago
Quoted from evh347:

Is that normal?

The arm behind the back wall that hooks the playfield to the motor has two screws to adjust it. Be sure the arm isn't too tight or too loose.

LTG : )

#1362 1 year ago
Quoted from evh347:

Well you guys were correct. I didn't know which screw you were referencing, but I figured out its this one (see pic).
That's looking upward, underneath the upper right flipper on the ship. The nut was actually tight, but maybe not tight enough. I loosened it, allowed the flipper to spring backwards against the rubber stop and then tightened the nut again with a nut driver. The fix was really simple...but...
I pulled the ship out all the ways anyways. I didn't disconnect all of the wiring harnesses underneath because I was able to swivel the ship (VERY CAREFULLY) out of the way. I wouldn't say removing the upper playfield ship is as easy as Eric says it is. Yes, it's just the hex screw behind the ship and the cotter pin from the arm behind the playfield...but, then there's the wiring harnesses underneath that are inconveniently zipped-tied very compactly...and its a challenge to find anywhere to safely place the playfield w/o resting it on some fragile plastics.
Question: In test now, my ship rocks full -right and -left, but it seems limited in rocking movement to the full-right position during play. Is that normal? Is the rocking motion/envelope dependent on character or mode?
[quoted image]

What LTG said and yes certain characters (not sure which as I am not that good at the code yet) do effect the speed of the ship as well as certain mods of the game. Hopefully you put the wire harness back as it was so it doesn't create a bind. Good Luck!

#1363 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

The arm behind the back wall that hooks the playfield to the motor has two screws to adjust it. Be sure the arm isn't too tight or too loose.
LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd, I made the adjustment like you said. Seems better now, but I swear the full-deflection upper-playfield motion is mode-dependent. At the beginning of a new game, the boat rocks only a little. Then as game progress continues, the boat becomes much more lively. So I don't think anyone can completely judge the upper-playfield's motion until you get a bit into the game. I'm pretty sure that was the dev's intention anyways. So, in other words, the motion during test is legit.

#1364 1 year ago

Okay! I have another question...

Are 'On Stranger Tides' and 'Dead Man Tell No Tales' multi-ball designed to be a 2-ball multi-balls only?

#1365 1 year ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

they are absolutely beautiful.

I was concerned about the cost vs benefits of adding Radcals to my DI build--until the instant I started peeling their protective film.

I think the difference is clear when you can see and touch a game with Radcals for yourself, and definitely when you can directly compare "with and without". Not that standard decals are bad--they're certainly not, but the Radcals are really good.

I wish the Radcals were less expensive, but in a home use situation, particularly if the game won't be in the middle of a lineup, I highly recommend them.

#1366 1 year ago
Quoted from pickleric:

I am getting this as well Nick. The EOS was closed without the left flipper activated originally, there was no gap at rest.
I adjusted the EOS so that it is open and closes once the left flipper activates.
Still getting the #D04 EOS stuck open in Test Report. Did you ever figure yours out?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Problem found... Broken wire / solder connection, as others have posted.

0349F3ED-1456-4D91-9408-2913542D9C68 (resized).jpeg
#1367 1 year ago
Quoted from pickleric:

Problem found... Broken wire / solder connection, as others have posted.[quoted image]

Cut the closest tie as well. There is a lot of wiring for this PF. I love what it is and has, just need to provide some slack for those wires.

#1368 1 year ago

So, had my machine at a pinball convention all weekend. Great time but the machine is in pieces. Had the wire break on the Black Pearl so cut off the 4 or 5 cable ties of death off and tried to do my best to resolder. Now unfortunately no lights on the Black Pearl turn on. Any insight in to where to look if none of them turn on? I had to wrangle the Black Pearl loose so I am sure I either broke another wire in the process or dislodged the connector.

The door for the chest release fell off. Had to reduce the length of the leaf switch under the Black Pearl ramp after noticing that my ramp was all scraped up. Which by the way was why the ball gets stuck on the wire form on the ramp up to the Black Pearl!!!! The leaf switch doesn’t let the ramp site down far enough.

Still have two other screws that I have not found where they go yet. Any insight?

Everyone loved the game, but it will be out the door quickly if I have this much headache with it.

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#1369 1 year ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Cut the closest tie as well. There is a lot of wiring for this PF. I love what it is and has, just need to provide some slack for those wires.

Thanks for the tip. Looks like there are three switches on the upper playfield that are not working. What is the best way to work on it to solder the wires. Is there enough slack to flip the upper playfield upside down?

Screen Shot 2018-12-02 at 7.58.12 PM (resized).png
#1370 1 year ago
Quoted from pickleric:

Is there enough slack to flip the upper playfield upside down?

On it's side. Not upside down.

LTG : )

#1371 1 year ago
Quoted from Gusphan:

I took the glass off and put it in switch test. Manually touched the switches together and didn't get a response. So something else is going on, not sure what.

I tried manually touching the wires as well and it also didn't register the switch. My wire is broken, as are a few others. Going to try to figure out how to get this mini playfield out w/o breaking more wires... pain in the arrrrrrrrse

#1372 1 year ago

Man, what is going on with this machine? I'm anxious to get one of these but I have to wait for jjp to iron out all these issues. I haven't had nearly this many issues on my first two jjp games. Did they change a process in QC or what? So many basic problems like broken wires, solder not holding, lights not installed correctly etc. Come on jjp, fix this. I feel bad for all you guys dealing with these issues on such an expensive machine. I'm a huge jjp fan, but this just seems out of control.

#1373 1 year ago

So glad I rejected the first POTC LE sent because it lacked the RADCALS I ordered. I will get the correct one after the CE"s are finished which will likely be in late January. I feel like maybe I dodged a bullet. Maybe by then they will have everything 'dialed in'. I know JJP can do it because my WOZRR and THBA were both perfect NIB games . So sorry that many are experiencing all of the 'pita' issues; not the way it is supposed to be.

#1374 1 year ago
Quoted from VillaThrills:

So, had my machine at a pinball convention all weekend. Great time but the machine is in pieces. Had the wire break on the Black Pearl so cut off the 4 or 5 cable ties of death off and tried to do my best to resolder. Now unfortunately no lights on the Black Pearl turn on. Any insight in to where to look if none of them turn on? I had to wrangle the Black Pearl loose so I am sure I either broke another wire in the process or dislodged the connector.
The door for the chest release fell off. Had to reduce the length of the leaf switch under the Black Pearl ramp after noticing that my ramp was all scraped up. Still have two other screws that I have not found where they go yet. Any insight?
Everyone loved the game, but it will be out the door quickly if I have this much headache with it.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Ok...found the issue. Cut off a couple more ZTODs (zip ties of death). Resoldered the main power connector to the light module on the ship. On the positive side I am getting better at getting the ship off.

Any insight to the screws? One just looks like a board screw but didn’t see anything missing. The other one is pretty hefty and I am worried it was important. Only thing I can notice is the British ship is a bit loose but I can’t see any open screw holes. Any insight to the bigger one?

875A229D-441D-4465-BD8E-278E548A30E6 (resized).jpeg
#1375 1 year ago
Quoted from pickleric:

I tried manually touching the wires as well and it also didn't register the switch. My wire is broken, as are a few others. Going to try to figure out how to get this mini playfield out w/o breaking more wires... pain in the arrrrrrrrse

Soldering the wire back on worked for D04 EOS upper left playfield flipper.

There was also a brown/green wire I had to solder back to one of the black pearl bonus X switches. That was a bit confusing at first as the brown/green wire is daisy chained among switches 9,10,and 12 so it did not solder onto either of the switches that were not working (9&12), had to solder onto the last one in the daisychain I believe switch 10. All the wires being zipped tied did not make this readily apparent at first, after cutting all the zip ties it became more clear.

Taking the ship out and tipping on its side is definitely a bit awkward.

I have an old radioshack iron that is pretty awful for this and was not great.

Any recommendations on brand / model of soldering iron to get that works well for this type of tight quarters work?
Screen Shot 2018-12-02 at 10.26.45 PM (resized).png

#1376 1 year ago
Quoted from pickleric:

Soldering the wire back on worked for D04 EOS upper left playfield flipper.
There was also a brown/green wire I had to solder back to one of the black pearl bonus X switches. That was a bit confusing at first as the brown/green wire is daisy chained amongs switch 9,10,and 12 so it did not solder onto either of the switches that were not working (9&12), had solder onto the last one in the daisychain I believe switch 10.
Taking the ship out and tipping on its side is definitely a bit awkward.
I had have an old radioshack iron that is pretty awful and was not great.
Any recommendations on brand / model of soldering iron to get that works well for this type of tight quarters work?
[quoted image]

This is the iron I use:
amazon.com link »

And this is the tip I use:
amazon.com link »

#1377 1 year ago
Quoted from VillaThrills:

Ok...found the issue. Cut off a couple more ZTODs (zip ties of death). Resoldered the main power connector to the light module on the ship. On the positive side I am getting better at getting the ship off.
Any insight to the screws? One just looks like a board screw but didn’t see anything missing. The other one is pretty hefty and I am worried it was important. Only thing I can notice is the British ship is a bit loose but I can’t see any open screw holes. Any insight to the bigger one?
[quoted image]

That larger machine screw is used to hold one of the pivot brackets to the back board, that is why your ship is loose. This bracket is right behind the ship and you will probably have to remove the ship to run that fastener back in again. I noticed the problem on my game when I was working on something else ship related. Might want to use some locktite on that fastener or it will just come back out again. Not sure about the smaller machine screw.

#1378 1 year ago

Is the Black Pearl supposed to list to the left slightly at the beginning of a game? Mine lists a little, but then levels out once the game gets going. My GF and I can’t stop playing this game, it’s so damn good! I can’t imagine how much better it will be by code version 3.x. I’ve only played less than ten games myself and managed 1.5B on factory settings. Stacking the multiball modes is so much fun! The compass wheel stopped spinning on the game only a few games into playing it. I removed the compass wheel from the bottom of the playfield and the two screws for the motor had backed out on one was catching the small gear preventing it from spinning. I adjusted the gap correctly between the gears and retightened the two screws with blue loctite. Then adjusted the spinner/wheel height level with the playfield and back in business. My action button is also sticking, I’ll lubricate it with some white lithium tomorrow.

Anyone make a nice set of side art decals for this game yet?

2612183B-B844-4DC3-99C4-4A8DB852E8F4 (resized).jpeg5787BB54-87D8-4E5E-B3A0-BC56E895B0C8 (resized).jpeg7640C756-EAC9-40BD-99BF-D0BE7267F88C (resized).jpeg86C206AD-AF76-484F-8217-E32C8CE44951 (resized).jpeg
#1379 1 year ago
Quoted from darkryder:

Is the Black Pearl supposed to list to the left slightly at the beginning of a game? Mine lists a little, but then levels out once the game gets going. My GF and I can’t stop playing this game, it’s so damn good! I can’t imagine how much better it will be by code version 3.x. I’ve only played less than ten games myself and managed 1.5B on factory settings. Stacking the multiball modes is so much fun! The compass wheel stopped spinning on the game only a few games into playing it. I removed the compass wheel from the bottom of the playfield and the two screws for the motor had backed out on one was catching the small gear preventing it from spinning. I adjusted the gap correctly between the gears and retightened the two screws with blue loctite. Then adjusted the spinner/wheel height level with the playfield and back in business. My action button is also sticking, I’ll lubricate it with some white lithium tomorrow.
Anyone make a nice set of side art decals for this game yet?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Mine leans to the left a little. Not sure if it is supposed to, but it seems fine.

Does your LED strip for the topper flicker?

#1380 1 year ago

Did anyone mention what the little skull in the chapter slot was for or why it's in differant positions?

#1381 1 year ago
Quoted from pickleric:

Does your LED strip for the topper flicker?

At the expo on the weekend the two pirates that were there the toppers were flickering , I think that's the way it's meant to be.

#1382 1 year ago
Quoted from pickleric:

Mine leans to the left a little. Not sure if it is supposed to, but it seems fine.
Does your LED strip for the topper flicker?

It's supposed to lean to the left by default so that it doesn't roll off the right side as easy, but I was told that you can adjust that to be "harder" (lean more to the right) with a hardware adjustment.

#1383 1 year ago

Thinking about joining the club at some point (hopefully sooner rather than later!), and I know this question has probably already been asked but:

Is JJP planning on selling that sweet ship in the bottle topper separately? Can't justify the CE price, so I want to get a LE, then add the topper.

Thanks!

#1384 1 year ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

Thinking about joining the club at some point (hopefully sooner rather than later!), and I know this question has probably already been asked but:
Is JJP planning on selling that sweet ship in the bottle topper separately? Can't justify the CE price, so I want to get a LE, then add the topper.
Thanks!

Their marketing material says the ship will not be sold separately. Makes sense -- if I were a CE owner, seeing the LE rubes with my sweet topper would piss me off.

#1385 1 year ago
Quoted from JordanB:

Their marketing material says the ship will not be sold separately. Makes sense -- if I were a CE owner, seeing the LE rubes with my sweet topper would piss me off.

Figured, but thought I'd ask anyway.

Thanks for the info!

#1386 1 year ago
Quoted from tonycip:

Did anyone mention what the little skull in the chapter slot was for or why it's in differant positions?

There's a new version of the manual out that does a good job of explaining the rules.

http://159.203.76.48/potc/POTC_Manual%202_0%20November%202018.pdf

#1387 1 year ago
Quoted from evh347:

Thanks Lloyd, I made the adjustment like you said. Seems better now, but I swear the full-deflection upper-playfield motion is mode-dependent. At the beginning of a new game, the boat rocks only a little. Then as game progress continues, the boat becomes much more lively. So I don't think anyone can completely judge the upper-playfield's motion until you get a bit into the game. I'm pretty sure that was the dev's intention anyways. So, in other words, the motion during test is legit.

I believe Eric M said in a podcast or stream that shooting the spinners on the upper playfield is supposed to represent raising the sails of the ship. Thus, the more you shoot the spinners the more rocking action you get!?

#1388 1 year ago
Quoted from pickleric:

There's a new version of the manual out that does a good job of explaining the rules.
http://159.203.76.48/potc/POTC_Manual%202_0%20November%202018.pdf

I’ve held a seminar during Dutch Pinball Open Expo a few weeks ago. It was about POTC rules and UI development.
The seminar was streamed by Deadflip and can be seen here, if you’re interested:
https://www.twitch.tv/videos/333986663?t=11258s

JP

#1389 1 year ago

I’ve had no issues with action button after putting a dab of lithium grease on the shaft of button from underside of lock bar.

Anyone try anything similar on the spinning disc gears?
Would love to find a solution to smooth/quiet the mech a bit.

#1390 1 year ago
Quoted from Psw757:

I’ve had no issues with action button after putting a dab of lithium grease on the shaft of button from underside of lock bar.
Anyone try anything similar on the spinning disc gears?
Would love to find a solution to smooth/quiet the mech a bit.

I read an earlier post that said to apply some "DryFluid Extreme Gear Lube". That Pinsider highly recommended it for solving noise issues with the spinning disk. I bought some at Helidirect.com for $21.67 with shipping (Amazon is out and EBAY has only foreign sellers with outrageous shipping charges). I will use it as soon as I get my game.

#1391 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadem:

I read an earlier post that said to apply some "DryFluid Extreme Gear Lube". That Pinsider highly recommended it for solving noise issues with the spinning disk. I bought some at Helidirect.com for $21.67 with shipping (Amazon is out and EBAY has only foreign sellers with outrageous shipping charges). I will use it as soon as I get my game.

White lithium is one of the highest regarded greases for gears in the Rc world. Doesn’t soften plastics or rubber and doesn’t break down like most dry lubes, Teflon lube and other ptfe lubes.

I will report back once I lightly apply.

#1392 1 year ago
Quoted from pickleric:

Mine leans to the left a little. Not sure if it is supposed to, but it seems fine.
Does your LED strip for the topper flicker?

OK, the slight lean must be normal then. The game plays fantastic now since the minor issues were resolved. The topper works great and we love the flickering effect.

#1393 1 year ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

Thinking about joining the club at some point (hopefully sooner rather than later!), and I know this question has probably already been asked but:
Is JJP planning on selling that sweet ship in the bottle topper separately? Can't justify the CE price, so I want to get a LE, then add the topper.
Thanks!

I'd buy that ship in a bottle topper in a second, but couldn't justify the $3K extra for the CE, nor do I care for the art package or green color everywhere. I hope someone else makes a similar topper at some point. It the coil test menu, there's a test for the topper motor. I guess the CE topper ship will rock back and forth. Very cool.

#1394 1 year ago

Reporting back on adding a small amount of white lithium grease to the spinning wheel gears and it reduced the buzzsaw noise very well. You can still here it a little bit but it took the broken parts sound out of it.

#1395 1 year ago
Quoted from darkryder:

I’ve only played less than ten games myself and managed 1.5B on factory settings. Stacking the multiball modes is so much fun!

Uhm.... presuming you mean 1.5 Million. Which is still hella impressive for less than a dozen games on it. I'm averaging maybe 600k on a good game, I'm happy when I break a million, and 1.6 is my current highest game.

#1396 1 year ago

Just in case anyone doesn't know, when selecting your character you can hold the left flipper and quickly hit the right flipper five times to have the game randomly select a character for you. Makes for a fun multiplayer game by making everyone play random. My apologies if this is common knowledge.

#1397 1 year ago
Quoted from JordanB:

Uhm.... presuming you mean 1.5 Million. Which is still hella impressive for less than a dozen games on it. I'm averaging maybe 600k on a good game, I'm happy when I break a million, and 1.6 is my current highest game.

What's the factory set GC score on JJPOTC?

#1398 1 year ago

Deff like the barrel tops. Gives dimension to those discs!
Another great mod yelobird

1F1B71FB-15BD-4AF1-9A67-5AAFCC630C77 (resized).jpeg65DCC73C-119E-4C2F-A43B-7A48A6048C09 (resized).jpeg
#1399 1 year ago
Quoted from pickleric:

There's a new version of the manual out that does a good job of explaining the rules.
http://159.203.76.48/potc/POTC_Manual%202_0%20November%202018.pdf

thanks . but reading makes me sleepy.. can someone just tell me..

#1400 1 year ago
Quoted from tonycip:

thanks . but reading makes me sleepy.. can someone just tell me..

If someone tells you on here you will still have to read it.

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