(Topic ID: 200141)

JJP Pirates of the Caribbean Official Owners and Fan Club!


By goren1818

3 years ago



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#12951 1 year ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

my front volume buttons control main volume of machine. There is probly a setting in menu for what it does (assuming)

Yes menu setting thanks ! Don’t suppose same thing for woz ? I’ll check into it

#12952 1 year ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Yes menu setting thanks ! Don’t suppose same thing for woz ? I’ll check into it

This does *not* work on WOZ or on TH, just DI and games afterwards

#12953 1 year ago

gnarlee & luckymoey thnx for the tips, problem solved. The spring under is no good, also rusty and had to bend the upperdeck aswell. Problem solved. Now searching for an smaller spring.
IMG_0086 (resized).jpg

#12954 1 year ago

I just set up the CE I recently had shipped, what a stunning game in all respects! When I started my 1st game I could hear a whirring sound that I assumed was the motor trying to make the upper deck sway, but it wasn't swaying... it was leaning a lot to the left... started playing anyway thinking that it might start to sway when I got a ball up there, but it didn't... it actually got stuck under the left flipper... turned the game off and lifted the playfield expecting to find a disconnected linkage, but it was all OK... moved the motor by hand and saw the deck tilting... put playfield back down and now it works... but I noticed that when the ball drains I hear the whirring sound still, but the deck stops swaying again... next ball out and it's swaying again... any tips on what the heck's going on there?

2nd thing... played next game and had no idea what I was doing... at one point the playfield insert lights went out and the flippers stopped working, the ball drained and then the inserts came back on and it tried to kick 3 balls into the plunger lane... the 3rd one couldn't get there because the 2nd one was blocking the ball exit, so I nudged the balls forwards and the 3rd came out, and then it stopped ejecting balls, and the game sat with 3 balls in the plunger lane... I plunged them all into play and the game played like everything was OK, in multiball... seemed to get multiple multiballs after that, at world's end being one of them... is this normal? It says the version is 00.99--CE...

Thanks for help guys!!

#12955 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

I just set up the CE I recently had shipped, what a stunning game in all respects! When I started my 1st game I could hear a whirring sound that I assumed was the motor trying to make the upper deck sway, but it wasn't swaying... it was leaning a lot to the left... started playing anyway thinking that it might start to sway when I got a ball up there, but it didn't... it actually got stuck under the left flipper... turned the game off and lifted the playfield expecting to find a disconnected linkage, but it was all OK... moved the motor by hand and saw the deck tilting... put playfield back down and now it works... but I noticed that when the ball drains I hear the whirring sound still, but the deck stops swaying again... next ball out and it's swaying again... any tips on what the heck's going on there?
2nd thing... played next game and had no idea what I was doing... at one point the playfield insert lights went out and the flippers stopped working, the ball drained and then the inserts came back on and it tried to kick 3 balls into the plunger lane... the 3rd one couldn't get there because the 2nd one was blocking the ball exit, so I nudged the balls forwards and the 3rd came out, and then it stopped ejecting balls, and the game sat with 3 balls in the plunger lane... I plunged them all into play and the game played like everything was OK, in multiball... seemed to get multiple multiballs after that, at world's end being one of them... is this normal? It says the version is 00.99--CE...
Thanks for help guys!!

Not sure about #1, but #2 sounds like what happens when a switch is broken or needs adjustment. The game thinks 1) there are too many balls in the trough or 2) that there isn’t a ball in the shooting lane when there should be. Have you checked switches in the trough (opto sensors) and shooting lane (rollover switch)? Those might be good places to start in trying to find what’s causing it.

#12956 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

any tips on what the heck's going on there?

All shipping blocks removed ? Not catching of wires going to the backbox ? Then check the flat metal piece that hooks the motor to the black pearl, two screws on it to adjust so it isn't too tight.

Quoted from pinballslave:

is this normal?

No. Check all connectors in backbox and be sure they are tight.

LTG : )

#12957 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

but #2 sounds like what happens when a switch is broken or needs adjustment.

So I guess the playfield insert lights going out and the flippers stopping working so the ball drains is not a feature of some part of the game?

Usually, if the trough optos are playing up, and too many balls get to the shooter lane, and you plunge them all, then as soon as you lose one, the game will think you lost the only ball in play and will do the bonus count... unless I started a MB and it was therefore expecting more balls in play...

Am I running the latest code with the version 00.99--CE?

Will do a switch test with an empty trough an put balls in slowly... and also test the plunger lane switch...

If the game starts playing up in strange ways that are hard to diagnose, do JJP offer support by analysing game play data that might be captured to a USB stick? I know American Pinball do this, just wondering if JJP do also...

#12958 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

All shipping blocks removed ? Not catching of wires going to the backbox ? Then check the flat metal piece that hooks the motor to the black pearl, two screws on it to adjust so it isn't too tight.

Not sure there were any shipping blocks, this is a 2nd hand game... but will check... so I take it after the ball drains the Black Pearl should continue to rock...? Not stop rocking and start again as mine does? When it's rocking it does seem 100% OK... just odd that it stops rocking while it's doing the bonus count between balls, yet with the sound of the motor wirring, and starts again when the ball comes to the plunger lane... doesn't seem like an accidentally caused issue... but maybe it is??

#12959 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

So I guess the playfield insert lights going out and the flippers stopping working so the ball drains is not a feature of some part of the game?
Usually, if the trough optos are playing up, and too many balls get to the shooter lane, and you plunge them all, then as soon as you lose one, the game will think you lost the only ball in play and will do the bonus count... unless I started a MB and it was therefore expecting more balls in play...
Am I running the latest code with the version 00.99--CE?
Will do a switch test with an empty trough an put balls in slowly... and also test the plunger lane switch...
If the game starts playing up in strange ways that are hard to diagnose, do JJP offer support by analysing game play data that might be captured to a USB stick? I know American Pinball do this, just wondering if JJP do also...

There is a small board on the left rear of the playfield that controls all the lights. My board was bad and sometimes the lights would not come on at startup and twice everything just went dark. Check your RJ45 network cable connections under the playfield in that board and in the backboard. Also check the mini hdmi cable on the same board and in the backboard. Make sure it is seated properly and not pinched somewhere. One of these connections could be lose. My problem ended up being a bad board. Steve sent me a new replacement and I’ve had zero issues since. The board swap out is super easy if you need to do that.

#12960 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

Not sure there were any shipping blocks, this is a 2nd hand game... but will check... so I take it after the ball drains the Black Pearl should continue to rock...? Not stop rocking and start again as mine does? When it's rocking it does seem 100% OK... just odd that it stops rocking while it's doing the bonus count between balls, yet with the sound of the motor wirring, and starts again when the ball comes to the plunger lane... doesn't seem like an accidentally caused issue... but maybe it is??

Not sure about any motor whirring noise but the BP does stop rocking between balls. Maybe the sound you're hearing is the spinning disk? Mine is rather loud (even with silencer mod).

0.99 is the latest code.

#12961 1 year ago

I finally remembered to try the thing I had read here a while back about the left flipper. Thanks to whoever posted that you can push the left flipper lighter to keep the upper left flipper down.

#12962 1 year ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

My board was bad and sometimes the lights would not come on at startup and twice everything just went dark.

And did your flippers die at the same time?

Quoted from arzoo:

Not sure about any motor whirring noise but the BP does stop rocking between balls. Maybe the sound you're hearing is the spinning disk?

This whirring is more like a cyclic sound, like a washing machine slowly churning the washing... very regular, at the same frequency as the BP rocking... basically it sounds like the BP is still rocking but it stops... the disc doesn't turn when this is happening... is there not some kind of actuation pin/clamp/clutch that fixes or detaches the BP to the cyclic movement of the actuating arm? Sounds crazy when you can just stop the motor, but I'm struggling to understand how else I can get what I'm experiencing... So when the BP stops rocking between balls, you don't get any cycling whirring sound? My volume is turned low, so if you have your game turned up this sound might be blocked out by the music during the bonus count?

#12963 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

This whirring is more like a cyclic sound, like a washing machine slowly churning the washing... very regular, at the same frequency as the BP rocking... basically it sounds like the BP is still rocking but it stops... the disc doesn't turn when this is happening... is there not some kind of actuation pin/clamp/clutch that fixes or detaches the BP to the cyclic movement of the actuating arm? Sounds crazy when you can just stop the motor, but I'm struggling to understand how else I can get what I'm experiencing... So when the BP stops rocking between balls, you don't get any cycling whirring sound? My volume is turned low, so if you have your game turned up this sound might be blocked out by the music during the bonus count?

I turned my sound all the way down, and between balls the ship does not rock and the pin is basically silent except for a very slight hum from the transformer. You can run a Black Pearl test to make sure it's rocking at all speeds, but sounds like yours is fine. Or maybe turn on the pin with the playfield pulled forward and see if you can identify where the sound is coming from.

#12964 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

And did your flippers die at the same time?

This whirring is more like a cyclic sound, like a washing machine slowly churning the washing... very regular, at the same frequency as the BP rocking... basically it sounds like the BP is still rocking but it stops... the disc doesn't turn when this is happening... is there not some kind of actuation pin/clamp/clutch that fixes or detaches the BP to the cyclic movement of the actuating arm? Sounds crazy when you can just stop the motor, but I'm struggling to understand how else I can get what I'm experiencing... So when the BP stops rocking between balls, you don't get any cycling whirring sound? My volume is turned low, so if you have your game turned up this sound might be blocked out by the music during the bonus count?

The topper ship will always be somewhat mechanical in sound. From the factory the cycle speed is turned up Way to high (like a speedboat) for testing. I dialed mine back to 6 in settings and it’s hardly noticeable.

#12965 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

And did your flippers die at the same time?

No my flippers never lost power, or the main power, just the lights.

#12966 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

The topper ship will always be somewhat mechanical in sound. From the factory the cycle speed is turned up Way to high (like a speedboat) for testing. I dialed mine back to 6 in settings and it’s hardly noticeable.

Ahhh... so the topper ship should be always moving?? Maybe the sound is coming from that then, but I didn't notice it moving... but then again, when the game starts, I was normally looking at the playfield, it being so mesmerising!! So I guess the topper only moves when the game plays, and not while in attract mode... Will pay more attention tonight... and remove the speedboat effect if the previous owner hasn't fiddled with that already.

Quoted from arzoo:

I turned my sound all the way down, and between balls the ship does not rock and the pin is basically silent except for a very slight hum from the transformer. You can run a Black Pearl test to make sure it's rocking at all speeds, but sounds like yours is fine. Or maybe turn on the pin with the playfield pulled forward and see if you can identify where the sound is coming from.

Thanks for checking your game! Will definitely put it in test mode tonight... even if it's the topper that's making the sound, I'd still like to try and understand why it didn't work when I first powered the game up.

#12967 1 year ago

One more question... when I watched some online vids of the game before taking the plunge I saw 3 concentric disks in the playfield spinning in opposite directions, with insert lights in them... but in my game there's just one central spinning disk with no lights... when I saw my single spinning disk I though I was going mad and only imagined the concentric disks when I saw the videos, my imagination fuelled by the corresponding screen graphic, but checking now again I see I'm not going mad, and there really are 3 concentric disks!! Wtf?? Why does my CE have just one disk with no light inserts?? Is this usual for the CEs, or have I got a rare prototype??

Just looked at the JJP website, and strangely you can now only view the details of the CE... which says about the disk: "mechanical spinning disk map with 216 animated award combinations". The flyer for the LE, however, says "concentric spinning map disks with 216 useable combinations"... so I think I've answered the question... I had no idea the CE stripped out the concentric spinning disks... usually the CE just adds stuff... I have to admit, I feel a bit bummed about that... those concentric disks look cool, especially with the insert lights...

#12968 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

One more question... when I watched some online vids of the game before taking the plunge I saw 3 concentric disks in the playfield spinning in opposite directions, with insert lights in them... but in my game there's just one central spinning disk with no lights... when I saw my single spinning disk I though I was going mad and only imagined the concentric disks when I saw the videos, my imagination fuelled by the corresponding screen graphic, but checking now again I see I'm not going mad, and there really are 3 concentric disks!! Wtf?? Why does my CE have just one disk with no light inserts?? Is this usual for the CEs, or have I got a rare prototype??

They changed to a single disc on all production games.

#12969 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

They changed to a single disc on all production games.

Aaaah... so only prototypes of any of the variations have the concentric disks?? This has probably been discussed to death of course... so sorry for my newb questions... don't feel so bad that I'm missing something in that case... crazy how most gameplay vids use the prototype... at least the ones I stumbled across!

#12970 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

The topper ship will always be somewhat mechanical in sound. From the factory the cycle speed is turned up Way to high (like a speedboat) for testing. I dialed mine back to 6 in settings and it’s hardly noticeable.

This explains the whirring sound... all I had to do was look up

#12971 1 year ago

While playing last weekend I noticed my flippers were going dead and everything was basically shutting off when the ball would go onto the ship.

I figured out that the switches for the bonus targets on the left side had the wires come loose. Probably from a bounceback cannon shot. I soldered them as well as I could, but they are in bad shape. Meaning that they are frayed and as tight as they can get. Has anyone simply added wire to them to give some slack? Or is there a "best way" to solve this issue?

#12972 1 year ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

Has anyone simply added wire to them to give some slack?

Quoted from Buellxb12r:

Or is there a "best way" to solve this issue?

You already figured it out.

LTG : )

#12973 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

You already figured it out.
LTG : )

Does it matter what type of wire I use, gauge size recommendations?

#12974 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

Aaaah... so only prototypes of any of the variations have the concentric disks?? This has probably been discussed to death of course... so sorry for my newb questions... don't feel so bad that I'm missing something in that case... crazy how most gameplay vids use the prototype... at least the ones I stumbled across!

The original prototype also had the Chest cover open and close based on when a ball could be locked, but all production units have the chest cover fixed in the open position. Cool thing is there's now a mod you can purchase to make the cover open and close like it was intended! Probably one of the coolest mods you can add imo. Not trivial to install but worth it. https://pinballmods.co/pinball-mods/PinballJs-actuated-chest-mod-JJP-POTC

#12975 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Probably one of the coolest mods you can add

Without question. Even turned off, the chest looks way better closed.

#12976 1 year ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

Does it matter what type of wire I use, gauge size recommendations?

22 gauge is fine. For switches, anything will work.

LTG : )

#12977 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

The original prototype also had the Chest cover open and close based on when a ball could be locked, but all production units have the chest cover fixed in the open position. Cool thing is there's now a mod you can purchase to make the cover open and close like it was intended! Probably one of the coolest mods you can add imo. Not trivial to install but worth it.

Thanks for the link!! They just sold another one! Has anyone come up with a mod to replace the concentric spinning disks with lighted inserts?

#12978 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

Thanks for the link!! They just sold another one! Has anyone come up with a mod to replace the concentric spinning disks with lighted inserts?

That's not likely to happen. The hole in the playfield and the artwork was altered for the smaller single disk. Also the mechanism for the three disks was very complex and supposedly prone to failure. Honestly, I think everyone was in love with the "idea" of the three disks because it was so unique, but in reality the game play is no different with a single disk given the way it spins (variable speed and direction).

#12979 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

That's not likely to happen. The hole in the playfield and the artwork was altered for the smaller single disk.

Definitely, if someone made that mod they'd have to provide a complete new playfield!

On a different topic, I'm trying to get to the bottom of a game breaking problem regarding the ball through optos... basically, in switch test, I'll drop a ball in the empty trough, and normally the switch closures will scroll down (on-off) till "trough #1" stays green... but, occasionally, trough numbers 2 and 3 will also stay green... with just one ball in the trough... and then, by just waiting, the two phantom closures will clear simultaniously... I even grabbed a video of that happening... but can't seem to attach that here... I can't imagine it's the optos themselves or they wouldn't clear simultaneously... I saw this twice... I've tried wiggling connectors under the playfield, no change... this is no doubt why the game occasionally kicks out 3 balls to the shooter lane... which it did again today...

#12980 1 year ago

The video says "last switch edge ball trough 1" and when the switches for positions 2 and 3 magically change colour, that changes to "last switch edge ball trough 2"... I.e. 2 being the last one to change, in this case from green to mustard...

Managed to change the video into a low res gif to try and get it up here... which doesn't appear to play!!!
GIF-191114_223447 (resized).png

#12981 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

Thanks for the link!! They just sold another one! Has anyone come up with a mod to replace the concentric spinning disks with lighted inserts?

You don’t want it. It was impossible to read, and the video version is MUCH more clear. It looked cool on video but was boring and prone to complications in the game. The biggest problem is that it wasn’t able to throw the ball around very much

#12982 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

The original prototype also had the Chest cover open and close based on when a ball could be locked, but all production units have the chest cover fixed in the open position. Cool thing is there's now a mod you can purchase to make the cover open and close like it was intended! Probably one of the coolest mods you can add imo. Not trivial to install but worth it. https://pinballmods.co/pinball-mods/PinballJs-actuated-chest-mod-JJP-POTC

Agree with this 100 percent!

#12983 1 year ago

Well, add another vote for PinWoofer being an excellent addition to Pirates. daudioguy's work really shines on POTC and hearing all the detail that's buried in there is much more possible with amplified speakers - a pretty dramatic difference. Dan (the creator) also is willing to bend over backwards to help even when there's *cough* user error *cough*. Looking forward to installing it in my DI as well.

#12984 1 year ago
Quoted from attack7:

Well, add another vote for PinWoofer being an excellent addition to Pirates. daudioguy's work really shines on POTC and hearing all the detail that's buried in there is much more possible with amplified speakers - a pretty dramatic difference. Dan (the creator) also is willing to bend over backwards to help even when there's *cough* user error *cough*. Looking forward to installing it in my DI as well.

Agreed. Dan’s product and service definitely live up to the hype. If you’re looking for better sound in any of your pins, pin woofer is the real deal.

#12985 1 year ago

You guys have sold me on pinwoofer. I’m adding to POTC and if I like it enough I’ll put in all my pins. Is this most people’s favorite speaker/amp upgrade? I’ve seen lots of options and haven’t gotten one yet because I wasn’t sure what would work best.

#12986 1 year ago
Quoted from attack7:

Well, add another vote for PinWoofer being an excellent addition to Pirates. daudioguy's work really shines on POTC and hearing all the detail that's buried in there is much more possible with amplified speakers - a pretty dramatic difference. Dan (the creator) also is willing to bend over backwards to help even when there's *cough* user error *cough*. Looking forward to installing it in my DI as well.

Hmmm... I will be doing my POTC and DI as well in the near future. Looking forward to boomier ship explosions and bigger bangs.

Any tips re installation? Stuff to avoid?

#12987 1 year ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

Hmmm... I will be doing my POTC and DI as well in the near future. Looking forward to boomier ship explosions and bigger bangs.
Any tips re installation? Stuff to avoid?

Didn’t mean to derail this thread but head over to the dedicated pinwoofer thread or contact Dan directly. Super knowledgeable guy, about audio, pinball and electronics in general.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-amplified-subwoofer-kits-by-pinwoofer/page/7#post-5305257

#12988 1 year ago

I feel I'm getting closer to fixing the 3 balls in the shooter lane problem... below is the opto emitter board and the 2 culprit trough locations #2 and #3 are LED 3 & 4... these are both fed from the small black sweetly R2... so my guess is that R2 is bad... the question is, what is R2 and where can I get a replacement? Or maybe it's best to just buy a new emitter board...?

20191115_190558 (resized).jpg
#12989 1 year ago

Just re-soldered the joints on optos 3 and 4 and now I always get switches showing balls in those locations... I've killed it! Someone warned me that the JJP trough opto emitters are very fragile... he didn't use that word exactly... the opto positions look very similar to the Bally/Williams opto positions... anyone know if a B/W opto emitter board is compatible with this game? If they are, it could be a more robust solution... Thanks for any tips...

#12990 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

I feel I'm getting closer to fixing the 3 balls in the shooter lane problem... below is the opto emitter board and the 2 culprit trough locations #2 and #3 are LED 3 & 4... these are both fed from the small black sweetly R2... so my guess is that R2 is bad... the question is, what is R2 and where can I get a replacement? Or maybe it's best to just buy a new emitter board...?[quoted image]

I’ve had a few trough optos go out on my STTNG. Re-soldering a loose connection on the back side of the board (opposite side of the side showing in your picture) fixed it each time. Someone did the soldering for me. You can try re-soldering the connections or, yes a new board should work if the problem is being caused by LED 3 & 4 being out. But you should confirm those LEDs are not working first so that you know you’ve found the problem.

A good way to check the LEDs is to view them through a cell phone camera. If you plug in the trough board and turn the game on (with the trough board not screwed in but instead hanging loose so you can view the LEDs through the camera), then you can view them through the phone camera screen to confirm which LEDs are on (working) and which are off (not working). Look at each LED closely one at a time to see which ones are on and which ones are off.

Also, to make sure the problem is with the LED emitter and to confirm there is not a problem with the opto receiver on the receiving board, you can hold a working LED on the emitter board up to each ball slot to trigger the switch in the switch test screen. That way you’re testing both the emitters and receivers to verify where any problem is.

#12991 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

Just re-soldered the joints on optos 3 and 4 and now I always get switches showing balls in those locations... I've killed it! Someone warned me that the JJP trough opto emitters are very fragile... he didn't use that word exactly... the opto positions look very similar to the Bally/Williams opto positions... anyone know if a B/W opto emitter board is compatible with this game? If they are, it could be a more robust solution... Thanks for any tips...

Well done!!!

#12992 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Also, to make sure the problem is with the LED emitter and to confirm there is not a problem with the opto receiver on the receiving board, you can hold a working LED on the emitter board up to each ball slot to trigger the switch in the switch test screen. That way you’re testing both the emitters and receivers to verify where any problem is.

Did exactly this and the recievers a are all good!

Quoted from EaglePin:

Well done!!!

Thanks... if anyone else wants me to kill their opto boards, just send 'em to me!!

#12993 1 year ago

I got some art blades from Tilt Graphics with the game, yet to be installed... but looking at them they appear to have suffered some severe sun-fade on the edge of one of the decals... This is not how they're supposed to look I take it...?
20191116_140814 (resized).jpg

#12994 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

I got some art blades from Tilt Graphics with the game, yet to be installed... but looking at them they appear to have suffered some severe sun-fade on the edge of one of the decals... This is not how they're supposed to look I take it...?
[quoted image]

No that's normal. Mine has the same. We used a piece of one of the backings, and made a template first. I'd recommend doing this, as you might find that the hole in the graphic isn't going to line up well probably. Our holes had to be adjusted about 1.5 inches from original center. The single template will work for both sides. You'll also find you'll be cutting off a great deal of material at the shorter end. Good luck! If you plan it well, it goes in easily. ; )
Murphy

#12995 1 year ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

No that's normal. Mine has the same. We used a piece of one of the backings, and made a template first. I'd recommend doing this, as you might find that the hole in the graphic isn't going to line up well probably. Our holes had to be adjusted about 1.5 inches from original center. The single template will work for both sides. You'll also find you'll be cutting off a great deal of material at the shorter end.

Thanks for the tip! That yellow is bizarre if it's supposed to be there... I imagined them hanging in a shop window for months to get like that... can't figure out how the yellow is connected with the artwork though... the sun on the horizon perhaps!? Would be very interested to see how yours look in the game after your trimming job!

#12996 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

Just re-soldered the joints on optos 3 and 4 and now I always get switches showing balls in those locations... I've killed it! Someone warned me that the JJP trough opto emitters are very fragile... he didn't use that word exactly... the opto positions look very similar to the Bally/Williams opto positions... anyone know if a B/W opto emitter board is compatible with this game? If they are, it could be a more robust solution... Thanks for any tips...

How long have you had your pin? They might send you a new board. Did you try calling JJ first?

#12997 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

Thanks for the tip! That yellow is bizarre if it's supposed to be there... I imagined them hanging in a shop window for months to get like that... can't figure out how the yellow is connected with the artwork though... the sun on the horizon perhaps!? Would be very interested to see how yours look in the game after your trimming job!

I thought it looked weird when I got mine too but it does seem to be sun rays shining down. Looks good once it’s on. In my opinion I think all LEs from all manufacturers should include side blades. Lame some don’t.

#12998 1 year ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

How long have you had your pin? They might send you a new board. Did you try calling JJ first?

I've had it less than a week, but I bought it 2nd hand... I'm actually sorting it out through the seller who's using his pulling power with the distro he regularly buys new pins from to send me a new opto board... I'm assuming the opto board on a Bally/Williams game will use the same voltage and the position of the optos and drilled holes looks the same as the JJP board, so maybe I can fix it with a B/W emitter board... I'm itching to play this thing again, so I could fix it today by stealing an emitter board from something like JD, which I've got easy access to... and then put the JJP board in when it arrives... any wise person know if I'm gonna fry something by doing that?

#12999 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

I've had it less than a week, but I bought it 2nd hand... I'm actually sorting it out through the seller who's using his pulling power with the distro he regularly buys new pins from to send me a new opto board... I'm assuming the opto board on a Bally/Williams game will use the same voltage and the position of the optos and drilled holes looks the same as the JJP board, so maybe I can fix it with a B/W emitter board... I'm itching to play this thing again, so I could fix it today by stealing an emitter board from something like JD, which I've got easy access to... and then put the JJP board in when it arrives... any wise person know if I'm gonna fry something by doing that?

If you have to buy a new board, automated Services has boards for 20 percent off right now.

#13000 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

Thanks for the tip! That yellow is bizarre if it's supposed to be there... I imagined them hanging in a shop window for months to get like that... can't figure out how the yellow is connected with the artwork though... the sun on the horizon perhaps!? Would be very interested to see how yours look in the game after your trimming job!

This is normal as mine are exactly the same. One thing to remember is the hole in the back isn't even close to lining up and you'll have to do a lot of trimming up around the back box area. Making a template makes a lot of sense otherwise your doing a lot trimming in closed quarters, which is a challenge

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