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(Topic ID: 200141)

JJP Pirates of the Caribbean Official Owners and Fan Club!


By goren1818

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 16,100 posts
  • 541 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Rdoyle1978
  • Topic is favorited by 261 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

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There are 16100 posts in this topic. You are on page 255 of 322.
#12701 1 year ago

Can someone point me to the posts that talk about the too-tight cable ties? I am still having the issue where my Pearl does not light up due to the RJ-45 jack not making a good connection.

#12702 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Can someone point me to the posts that talk about the too-tight cable ties? I am still having the issue where my Pearl does not light up due to the RJ-45 jack not making a good connection.

I recall seeing posts about the ties to the Pearl with regard to the switch wires breaking under the Pearl, but I don’t recall anything related to that connector. I’m thinking that’s the Ethernet cable, is that right? I found this but I don’t think it relates to the Pearl.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/68#post-4822671

Which end of the connection is loose?

#12703 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

I recall seeing posts about the ties to the Pearl with regard to the switch wires breaking under the Pearl, but I don’t recall anything related to that connector. I’m thinking that’s the Ethernet cable, is that right? I found this but I don’t think it relates to the Pearl.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/68#post-4822671
Which end of the connection is loose?

Ok yeah that’s what I was thinking about, but my issue is a bit different I guess.

The Ethernet cable on the Pearl side is loose. Actually I’m not sure it’s the cable, but that seems more likely than it being the jack itself. I can fiddle with it if I partially remove the Pearl, and the lights come back on, but then in half a game the movement turns it off again. I need to fully remove the Pearl and test it I guess.

#12704 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Ok yeah that’s what I was thinking about, but my issue is a bit different I guess.
The Ethernet cable on the Pearl side is loose. Actually I’m not sure it’s the cable, but that seems more likely than it being the jack itself. I can fiddle with it if I partially remove the Pearl, and the lights come back on, but then in half a game the movement turns it off again. I need to fully remove the Pearl and test it I guess.

Try another cable to see if it changes the behavior, hopefully it's cable tension causing an intermittent cable and not the connector itself.

#12705 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Try another cable to see if it changes the behavior, hopefully it's cable tension causing an intermittent cable and not the connector itself.

That’s what I’m hoping, but I’ll need to fully remove the Pearl to get at the cable I think.

#12706 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I recently discovered what a huge difference fresh coil sleeves can make in a game.
I did them at around 4200 plays on Wonka and the flippers became as snappy as new. I did it on POTC (around 3400 plays) and I'm also happy with the result, I can make the chest shot consistently from the left flipper now!
I did all 3 flippers, the Depths VUK and the Tortuga VUK. However, Depths is still somewhat inconsistent. Around 5-10% of the time, it seems to shoot out with too little force, and drain in the I lane.
This is really disappointing when it happens, because it's not a skill thing...you just plain got screwed out of a ball.
I keep the game clean and waxed and the one way gate is not binding in any way.
Has anyone found a cause/fix for these occasional I lane dribble drains?

I'm a long way from this, but can you please share exactly what you ordered so if/when that time does come?

#12707 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I'm a long way from this, but can you please share exactly what you ordered so if/when that time does come?

Coil sleeves.

#12708 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Coil sleeves.

Haha. Sorta wanted a link, but it's okay!!
Actually, good to have these on hand or ?

#12710 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Haha. Sorta wanted a link, but it's okay!!
Actually, good to have these on hand or ?

I'm a believer in keeping them on hand now after they gave so much new life to Wonka and POTC. I looked up the sizes in the POTC manual and bought 25 of each so I have plenty around and can swap whenever things feel a tad weak after 3-4k plays.

In a pinch you can remove them, clean with alcohol and reinsert. However they are so cheap and so nasty when you remove them it's better to just replace.

#12711 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I'm a believer in keeping them on hand now after they gave so much new life to Wonka and POTC.

Did you also replace flipper coil stops? Can make even bigger difference than coil sleeves.

#12712 1 year ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

Did you also replace flipper coil stops? Can make even bigger difference than coil sleeves.

No, they were not yet mushroomed and looked fine. Plungers too.

#12713 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I'm a believer in keeping them on hand now after they gave so much new life to Wonka and POTC. I looked up the sizes in the POTC manual and bought 25 of each so I have plenty around and can swap whenever things feel a tad weak after 3-4k plays.
In a pinch you can remove them, clean with alcohol and reinsert. However they are so cheap and so nasty when you remove them it's better to just replace.

About how long does it take to replace the sleeves on the three main playfield flippers, and could you list the high level/overview of the steps involved? I haven't touched any flipper mechanics yet, but I did clean a bunch of gunk off the levers last weekend and I've got a ton of plays on it so mine could probably benefit from it too. Thanks.

11
#12714 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

About how long does it take to replace the sleeves on the three main playfield flippers, and could you list the high level/overview of the steps involved? I haven't touched any flipper mechanics yet,

A few minutes each one. Remove the two 5/32nds allen head screws holding the coil stop on. Remove the coil stop. Slide coil off of plunger. Slide old coil sleeve out. Slide new coil sleeve into the coil. Slide coil onto the plunger. Replace the coil stop. Replace the two allen head screws. Done. It's Miller time.

Do one at a time. In case you get really crazy creative and invent a few steps of your own. You can look to the others for guidance of where things go.

LTG : )

#12715 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

No, they were not yet mushroomed and looked fine. Plungers too.

Surprised they don’t have some wear after 3-4K plays. Some of them, especially Stern stops, start to show wear after only several hundred games. Coil dust seems to build up on my POTC quicker than most.

#12716 1 year ago
Quoted from romulusx:

John Youssi did art for Dial In & Wonka,what other artist work for JJP.I’m hoping Franchi can do some for us

The Kaneda franchi interview seems to indicate that the possibility of that happening in the next couple of years isn’t there (jjp’s already booked up so to speak). After that we’ll who knows, I hope so!

#12717 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

A few minutes each one. Remove the two 5/32nds allen head screws holding the coil stop on. Remove the coil stop. Slide coil off of plunger. Slide old coil sleeve out. Slide new coil sleeve into the coil. Slide coil onto the plunger. Replace the coil stop. Replace the two allen head screws. Done. It's Miller time.
Do one at a time. In case you get really crazy creative and invent a few steps of your own. You can look to the others for guidance of where things go.
LTG : )

Thank you!!!

#12718 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

About how long does it take to replace the sleeves on the three main playfield flippers, and could you list the high level/overview of the steps involved? I haven't touched any flipper mechanics yet, but I did clean a bunch of gunk off the levers last weekend and I've got a ton of plays on it so mine could probably benefit from it too. Thanks.

About 2-3 minutes per coil.

- Remove the 2 hex screws on the coil stop and remove the coil stop.
- Pull out the sleeve and throw it away.
- Be repulsed at all the black powder on your hands and go wash them
- Insert the new sleeve
- Screw the coil stop back in, take care to ensure the stop is snug against the coil (no play/slop)

#12719 1 year ago

you Can cut sleeves to size with a copper pipe cutter and an old coil inner piece. Slide sleeve over “plunger” and cut with a turn or 2 of cutter.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-5-8-in-Junior-Tube-Cutter-80-511-111/304384093

#12720 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

About how long does it take to replace the sleeves on the three main playfield flippers, and could you list the high level/overview of the steps involved? I haven't touched any flipper mechanics yet, but I did clean a bunch of gunk off the levers last weekend and I've got a ton of plays on it so mine could probably benefit from it too. Thanks.

All that gunk is the coil stop turning to black powder. Even if it’s not mushroomed, after thousands of plays it’s likely worn changing the length the flipper travels and shot geometry. Not a big deal, but if you’re placing an order for sleeves, it’s a good idea to have some new stops on hand. They are pretty cheap, and you can compare the stop length against a new one to see if it’s time to replace.

#12721 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

About 2-3 minutes per coil.
- Remove the 2 hex screws on the coil stop and remove the coil stop.
- Pull out the sleeve and throw it away.
- Be repulsed at all the black powder on your hands and go wash them
- Insert the new sleeve
- Screw the coil stop back in, take care to ensure the stop is snug against the coil (no play/slop)

Thanks!

#12722 1 year ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

All that gunk is the coil stop turning to black powder. Even if it’s not mushroomed, after thousands of plays it’s likely worn changing the length the flipper travels and shot geometry. Not a big deal, but if you’re placing an order for sleeves, it’s a good idea to have some new stops on hand. They are pretty cheap, and you can compare the stop length against a new one to see if it’s time to replace.

Sounds good. I'll put that on the list. Might as well get them since they'll be needed at some point anyway.

#12723 1 year ago

How long does it take for coil dust to become visible?

It’s on the playfield right?
My game only has around 350 or so plays and I just don’t see it.

How noticeable is it?

#12724 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

How long does it take for coil dust to become visible?

It’s on the playfield right?

On the underside of playfield or on things below it. Where the coils are.

LTG : )

#12725 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

On the underside of playfield or on things below it. Where the coils are.
LTG : )

Makes sense! =)

#12726 1 year ago
Quoted from koops:

The Kaneda franchi interview seems to indicate that the possibility of that happening in the next couple of years isn’t there (jjp’s already booked up so to speak). After that we’ll who knows, I hope so!

I hope so too,Stern’s big resurgence was due to Zombie Yeti
And Dirty Donny’s art work.

#12727 1 year ago

Hey all, I've posted in the past (and others have confirmed) that the inner orbit shot from upper flipper often does not make it around and instead ends up in the VUK to the upper playfield. I've never been able to make more than four consecutive loops, and even that's very difficult. So yesterday I removed the BP and dis some testing. Turns out the issue is that the ball does not transition smoothly from the inner orbit rails to the outer orbit rails. Instead it bounces between the top and bottom rails at the top of the orbit. To make matters worse, the top rail has no mounting points where the ball impacts so it flexes (causing the bounce) and the bottom rail is not even curved.

Here are a couple videos demonstrating the issue. The second is slow-motion.

I'm not sure why some POTCs have this issue and others don't, maybe the incline? One thing I noticed is that when the flex is removed from the top rail (pressure from behind) the ball still bounces but not nearly as much and orbits around faster. So for me the solution might be to add some sort of bracket behind the top rail at the point of impact. Any other suggestions or thoughts?

#12728 1 year ago

Hey all, I've posted in the past (and others have confirmed) that the inner orbit shot from upper flipper often does not make it around and instead ends up in the VUK to the upper playfield. I've never been able to make more than four consecutive loops, and even that's very difficult. So yesterday I removed the BP and dis some testing. Turns out the issue is that the ball does not transition smoothly from the inner orbit rails to the outer orbit rails. Instead it bounces between the top and bottom rails at the top of the orbit. To make matters worse, the top rail has no mounting points where the ball impacts so it flexes (causing the bounce) and the bottom rail is not even curved.

Here are a couple videos demonstrating the issue. The second is slow-motion where you can actually see the top rail flexing on ball impact.


I'm not sure why some POTCs have this issue and others don't, maybe the incline? One thing I noticed is that when the flex is removed from the top rail (pressure from behind) the ball still bounces but not nearly as much and orbits around faster. So for me the solution might be to add some sort of bracket behind the top rail at the point of impact. Any other suggestions or thoughts?

#12729 1 year ago

Did you send the ball by hand, or with the flipper?

#12730 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Hey all, I've posted in the past (and others have confirmed) that the inner orbit shot from upper flipper often does not make it around and instead ends up in the VUK to the upper playfield. I've never been able to make more than four consecutive loops, and even that's very difficult. So yesterday I removed the BP and dis some testing. Turns out the issue is that the ball does not transition smoothly from the inner orbit rails to the outer orbit rails. Instead it bounces between the top and bottom rails at the top of the orbit. To make matters worse, the top rail has no mounting points where the ball impacts so it flexes (causing the bounce) and the bottom rail is not even curved.
Here are a couple videos demonstrating the issue. The second is slow-motion.

I'm not sure why some POTCs have this issue and others don't, maybe the incline? One thing I noticed is that when the flex is removed from the top rail (pressure from behind) the ball still bounces but not nearly as much and orbits around faster. So for me the solution might be to add some sort of bracket behind the top rail at the point of impact. Any other suggestions or thoughts?

Could the problem instead be the shape of the inner orbit guide? I don’t know, but my first impression looking at the videos is the ball seems to hit the outer orbit guide in a way that it would have a tough time continuing on regardless of the shape of the outer guide. Could the shape of the inner orbit guide be a problem in that it needs to feed the ball into the lane at a better angle? Again, I don’t know but that was my impression from the video.

#12731 1 year ago
Quoted from Axl:

Did you send the ball by hand, or with the flipper?

For the video I used my hand.

#12732 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

For the video I used my hand, but the same basic motion occurs when using the flipper.

#12733 1 year ago
Quoted from Axl:

Did you send the ball by hand, or with the flipper?

For the video I used my hand, but the same basic motion occurs when using the flipper.

#12734 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Could the problem instead be the shape of the inner orbit guide? I don’t know, but my first impression looking at the videos is the ball seems to hit the outer orbit guide in a way that it would have a tough time continuing on regardless of the shape of the outer guide. Could the shape of the inner orbit guide be a problem in that it needs to feed the ball into the lane at a better angle? Again, I don’t know but that was my impression from the video.

I would agree, the inner orbit rail could probably be angled better, but that's the way JJP designed it, and that can't be changed.

#12735 1 year ago

I think you should try it again, sending it with the hand will not give you the same result as with the flipper.

Set up the camera, shoot it 10 times or so, and have a look then.

#12736 1 year ago

I’ve had the same theory but never tested it. My assumption was when we send the ball through there is so much spin on ball that it “eats” the momentum when it hits the outer wall (some is due to the flex of wall as well). Been meaning to do a tear down back there for a good waxing to see if it helps at all. Best comparison I can think of is look up billiard trick shots spin on a ball can do some crazy things

#12737 1 year ago

FYI everybody - I had ordered some replacement parts way back when, and they were out of stock. Well, today I got confirmation they are being shipped. I don’t think I’ve ever been happier to get a box of basic metal parts LOL

#12738 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

For the video I used my hand, but the same basic motion occurs when using the flipper.

Is there a noticeable ball trail on the playfield or metal guide indicating the ball path? From your video, it looks like there's a pretty good trail along the outer ball guide.

#12739 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

FYI everybody - I had ordered some replacement parts way back when, and they were out of stock. Well, today I got confirmation they are being shipped. I don’t think I’ve ever been happier to get a box of basic metal parts LOL

Great to hear. What did you order?

#12740 1 year ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

Is there a noticeable ball trail on the playfield or metal guide indicating the ball path? From your video, it looks like there's a pretty good trail along the outer ball guide.

For the video I placed the ball on the outer rail of the inner orbit (just to the right of the map hole) and launched it with my finger. So it always impacted the outer orbit top rail just to the left of the opto hole. But as Axl mentioned, when using the flipper the ball travel is much more varied and hence the wider impact/trail. But regardless, the ball always defects from the top to the bottom rail losing momentum. What's strange is visually all the rails look to be configured for smooth transitions and I'm sure that was the intent, but in reality (at least on my pin) that's not how it works.

#12741 1 year ago

I also noticed there's a small unused hole (about screw size) behind the top rail just to the left of the opto mount. It's very close to the back wall, about 3/4" from the rail. Wonder what it was intended to be used for? I might be able to secure and L bracket between the back of the rail and the playfield using that hole, which should theoretically reduce the flex in the rail. Although I could drill a new hole anywhere back there to mount the L bracket.

#12742 1 year ago
Quoted from Heater:

Great to hear. What did you order?

Nothing on the PF - the apron wire form (which is apparently the most difficult part in the world to find for ANY game), some connectors, etc. stuff specific to POTC but not play field parts

#12743 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

I'm not sure why some POTCs have this issue and others don't, maybe the incline? One thing I noticed is that when the flex is removed from the top rail (pressure from behind) the ball still bounces but not nearly as much and orbits around faster. So for me the solution might be to add some sort of bracket behind the top rail at the point of impact. Any other suggestions or thoughts?

Reposition the inner loop rail so it is aimed better on exit or slow down the ball? As you said it occurs after a few orbits the root cause is probably the balls exit speed.

#12744 1 year ago
Quoted from koops:

Reposition the inner loop rail so it is aimed better on exit or slow down the ball? As you said it occurs after a few orbits the root cause is probably the balls exit speed.

Unfortunately the mounting points on the rail and playfield are not adjustable.

#12745 1 year ago

FWIW - This happens on my game as well. I have always felt like if I don't hit the inner loop "perfectly", it can wind up on the BP.

#12746 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Unfortunately the mounting points on the rail and playfield are not adjustable.

A little foam/felt on the exit then?

#12747 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

A few minutes each one. Remove the two 5/32nds allen head screws holding the coil stop on. Remove the coil stop. Slide coil off of plunger. Slide old coil sleeve out. Slide new coil sleeve into the coil. Slide coil onto the plunger. Replace the coil stop. Replace the two allen head screws. Done. It's Miller time.
Do one at a time. In case you get really crazy creative and invent a few steps of your own. You can look to the others for guidance of where things go.
LTG : )

Do the Black Pearl flippers use the same coil sleeves as the main flippers? I'm guessing they could use changing also?

#12748 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Do the Black Pearl flippers use the same coil sleeves as the main flippers?

Yes.

LTG : )

#12749 1 year ago

Here's my solution to help with the ball bouncing between the top and bottom rails when transitioning from the inner orbit. I added a small bracket behind the top rail at the point where the ball tends to impact. Conveniently there was already an unused screw point in the playfield in the exact spot. This removed all the flex in the rail at that point and reduces the bounce effect. My initial testing indicates it definitely helps.

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#12750 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Yes.
LTG : )

Thanks again!

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