(Topic ID: 200141)

JJP Pirates of the Caribbean Official Owners and Fan Club!

By goren1818

6 years ago


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There are 18,885 posts in this topic. You are on page 244 of 378.
#12151 4 years ago
Quoted from statsdoc:

Next time I get the ship out ...
Thank you

NP! I though taking the BP out and putting back in was a cinch with LTG's post notes, and vids on Youtube. I had to due to installing the Cliffs into the MAP hole.

#12152 4 years ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

NP! I though taking the BP out and putting back in was a cinch with LTG's post notes, and vids on Youtube. I had to due to installing the Cliffs into the MAP hole.

Yeah, it wasn't nearly as bad as I anticipated. I will do it again soon, but I want to play it a bit first.

#12153 4 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

The foot wasn't the problem with mine. When I removed the nut from the (bent) post, the wire form twisted up even more. Bending the foot would just put even more stress on the post to bend it more (in my case at least). Twisting the wire form into shape (if possible without breaking the structure welds) would cause the wire form to interfere with the Tortuga scoop even more. I'm sure that it's "possible" to man handle the wire form enough to make it work, but what I was seeing is that the result would cause the ball to fall off of the wire form. It was a no win solution for me going that route. Even what I did with bending it at the BP connection is not ideal, but it works. It still is slightly bent at the bottom, but only I really notice it.

What I did (and advise you to do also just in case) is use the photo you have, take another one with the post attachment disconnected showing that it twists even more and that it is not the post connection that is causing it. A side by side photo showing the twisting comparison with and without it attached would be a good visual. Then take photos of the clearance or contact at the Tortuga scoop, and at the top pop bumper and BP connection. Send that to Steve at JJP and ask for advise on how to resolve the issue. If he suggests trying to man handle the wire form, go for it. But to keep the warranty valid in case you break it, have him direct you to do it first. Steve may just send you another wire form as a warranty issue if it is twisted as much as mine was. CC your distributor on all of the communication emails so that he can help to move things along if need be.

I know I’m a day behind. I had this same issue. Contacted jjp and they sent me a new wireform. New one was similar to the old one twisted left and was not parallel to outlane. New one also did not match up to the holes on the bp which led me to the conclusion that every single wireform can be slightly different. I was able to get mine adjusted by bending the the wireform where it goes into the bp ramp. Bending 1 up and 1 down just a hair straightened out my ramp considerably. The last mm I got by putting a plastic washer under the wireform at the outlane post. I did ever so slightly crack the buckle plating on wireform when I did this, but I also had discussed it with jjp and was sent a new one. At that point I felt more comfortable bending the old one to get it right. If playing chipping ever becomes noticeable I plan on getting the wireform powdercoated

#12154 4 years ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

I know I’m a day behind. I had this same issue. Contacted jjp and they sent me a new wireform. New one was similar to the old one twisted left and was not parallel to outlane. New one also did not match up to the holes on the bp which led me to the conclusion that every single wireform can be slightly different. I was able to get mine adjusted by bending the the wireform where it goes into the bp ramp. Bending 1 up and 1 down just a hair straightened out my ramp considerably. The last mm I got by putting a plastic washer under the wireform at the outlane post. I did ever so slightly crack the buckle plating on wireform when I did this, but I also had discussed it with jjp and was sent a new one. At that point I felt more comfortable bending the old one to get it right. If playing chipping ever becomes noticeable I plan on getting the wireform powdercoated

Yep, exact same here. Was yours built after the CEs (after last Christmas)?

#12155 4 years ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

With the playfield in the upright position I hand filed the t nut down which took all of 5 minutes. All the filings stayed in the bottom of the trough. Vacuumed out and then wiped out well too. It's a 10 minute fix at best.

Did you remove the subway?

#12156 4 years ago

Wondering how the ball got here under the BP? Any ideas?

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#12157 4 years ago

Does the gap between the VUK and the BP look pretty normal? Ball can’t make it up....

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#12158 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Wondering how the ball got here under the BP? Any ideas? [quoted image][quoted image]

Most likely rolled under the BP and then through the hole in the playfield under the BP that the BP wiring goes through.

#12159 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Does the gap between the VUK and the BP look pretty normal? Ball can’t make it up....[quoted image]

Have you tried increasing power to the VUK to see if that gets it up there?

#12160 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Did you remove the subway?

No need to. Everything collects in one corner the way the playfield slopes to the back of the trough.

#12161 4 years ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Most likely rolled under the BP and then through the hole in the playfield under the BP that the BP wiring goes through.

Sorry but how did it get stuck there? I just don’t see it. Sorry, I’m pretty new at this machine

#12162 4 years ago

I know exactly why now. When the VUK tries (and fails) 2 times to make it up to the BP the ball somehow gets stuck there.

BP doesn’t seem to be blocking the ball’s path

#12163 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I know exactly why now. When the VUK tries (and fails) 2 times to make it up to the BP the ball somehow gets stuck there.
BP doesn’t seem to be blocking the ball’s path

Did you move the bp so that it’s closer to the clear ramp?

I would have thought there wouldn’t be enough space for the ball to fall through after getting kicked up and then falling back on to the one way gate.

#12164 4 years ago
Quoted from koops:

Did you move the bp so that it’s closer to the clear ramp?
I would have thought there wouldn’t be enough space for the ball to fall through after getting kicked up and then falling back on to the one way gate.

Yeah it’s closer now. I just pulled the BP and it moved. There’s still a gap but now the ball rolls freely to the clear ramp. When I hit the port royal shot, I immediately looked at the VUK, The ball is not hitting the BP at all.

Not sure why the VUK fails to push the ball up though. I don’t have a manual with me (would love to buy one) but I’ll try increasing the power to it.

#12165 4 years ago
Quoted from statsdoc:

Next time I get the ship out ...
Thank you

Removing the tnut via the subway isn't really that difficult, and you can address it directly. Took maybe 90 minutes total for me.

#12166 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Yeah it’s closer now. I just pulled the BP and it moved. There’s still a gap but now the ball rolls freely to the clear ramp. When I hit the port royal shot, I immediately looked at the VUK, The ball is not hitting the BP at all.
Not sure why the VUK fails to push the ball up though. I don’t have a manual with me (would love to buy one) but I’ll try increasing the power to it.

There's no buying a manual, as far as I know.

http://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/potc/POTC_Manual%202_0%20November%202018.pdf

Maybe we could do a group buy on getting them printed and bound? Anyone else want one?

#12167 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

There's no buying a manual, as far as I know.
http://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/potc/POTC_Manual%202_0%20November%202018.pdf
Maybe we could do a group buy on getting them printed and bound? Anyone else want one?

F yeah! Count me in!

#12168 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

There's no buying a manual, as far as I know.
http://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/potc/POTC_Manual%202_0%20November%202018.pdf
Maybe we could do a group buy on getting them printed and bound? Anyone else want one?

Crazy expensive to print, believe it or not.... Especially in color.

#12169 4 years ago
Quoted from wesman:

Crazy expensive to print, believe it or not.... Especially in color.

Oh, I believe it. Hence the group buy. I also have a color printer that duplexes so...

#12170 4 years ago
Quoted from wesman:

Crazy expensive to print, believe it or not.... Especially in color.

Low quantity (100? Less?), color, with media mail shipping? Probably $50 or more for almost 400 page hardcover manual that would be better than the color copies Fedex office, etc crank out. Books are relatively cheap if you can print in large quantities. The setup is the expensive part. Once you're running the book itself is the cheap part.

If you could get like 300-400 on board, it could be do-able in high quality, but it'd be hard to get that many together.

#12171 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Does the gap between the VUK and the BP look pretty normal? Ball can’t make it up....[quoted image]

It may just be the angle of this pic, but can the gate on the VUK move fully? It almost looks like it would hit the BP. If your BP was too far back, hence the gap in the front you had, then maybe it is contacting the gate. Although I think for it to dump out it would likely be passing the gate. I think the game might compensate on the 3rd kick in a row by adding more power. So maybe on the 3rd kick it makes it past the gate but not enough and that is what dumps it back down. Why it ends up on top of the plastic there doesn't make sense. But again, if your BP is weird in alignment or something is broken all bets are off.

#12172 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Low quantity (100? Less?), color, with media mail shipping? Probably $50 or more for almost 400 page hardcover manual that would be better than the color copies Fedex office, etc crank out. Books are relatively cheap if you can print in large quantities. The setup is the expensive part. Once you're running the book itself is the cheap part.
If you could get like 300-400 on board, it could be do-able in high quality, but it'd be hard to get that many together.

I remember looking into this months ago, and Staples was the cheapest at I think $57 for black and white. Color is crazy pricey.

#12173 4 years ago

JJP probably wouldn't like me selling it. So if we get 25 orders we can split the cost at like $16/piece plus shipping to your location. Or if you want to order direct it's $39 with free shipping.

bookbaby.com

#12174 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

There's no buying a manual, as far as I know.
http://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/potc/POTC_Manual%202_0%20November%202018.pdf
Maybe we could do a group buy on getting them printed and bound? Anyone else want one?

Then an update comes and the manual gets updated.

I have the physical manuals for dialed-in and hobbit they are huuuuge. There is no nice place in the cabinet to put them really.

#12175 4 years ago

I have the full WOZ manual, I like it.

Looks like if we can get 25 people together we can get it printed and shipped to one person for $50/ea at bookbaby.com. That's at 9x12", so a bit smaller than the real thing but probably big enough. Otherwise I am betting you have to print 11x17 and trim because it's an odd size. Full color, perfect bound. No option for spiral bound. Maybe just hole punched and in a folder so you can replace pages later?

#12176 4 years ago

i believe i have some printed pirates manuals, but i will have to check. give me a couple hours. they would be the same costs as the other JJP manuals. $100 plus shipping.

#12177 4 years ago

JJP printed some extras and sold them through at least one disty, Eric's brother, for $100 each. They came with extra pages/photos in the back that aren't in the PDF manual of the making of the game. I've got one on my shelf. Expensive, but I figured it would be a nice collectible, and amongst pinheads a neat conversation item.

Speak of the devil, see above∆∆
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#12178 4 years ago

Will the game function without the BP hooked up? I want to see what the hell is going on with the VUK and getting the ship out of the way would help a great deal. I want to hit the port royal shot without the BP on the playfield. Possible?

#12179 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Will the game function without the BP hooked up? I want to see what the hell is going on with the VUK and getting the ship out of the way would help a great deal. I want to hit the port royal shot without the BP on the playfield. Possible?

I wouldn't want to find out. I would suggest setting it on a pillow inside the cabinet with it hooked up

#12180 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Will the game function without the BP hooked up? I want to see what the hell is going on with the VUK and getting the ship out of the way would help a great deal. I want to hit the port royal shot without the BP on the playfield. Possible?

Yea. It will report some errors.

#12181 4 years ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

i believe i have some printed pirates manuals, but i will have to check. give me a couple hours. they would be the same costs as the other JJP manuals. $100 plus shipping.

Humm... now print my own crappy one for 1/2 that or get the nice one to match my WOZ.

Waiting...

#12182 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Oh, I believe it. Hence the group buy. I also have a color printer that duplexes so...

I'm in. I've already printed the POTC Game Play Flow Chart in LARGE format and had it laminated. Kinko's/FedEx wouldn't do it due to the Disney logo.
So my local small town printer did it gladly. : )

#12183 4 years ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

i believe i have some printed pirates manuals, but i will have to check. give me a couple hours. they would be the same costs as the other JJP manuals. $100 plus shipping.

My hand is raised. Count me in if you have some to sell.
Murphy

#12184 4 years ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

My hand is raised. Count me in if you have some to sell.
Murphy

Mine too! I sent a PM this morning....

#12185 4 years ago

How in the HELL do I get to this nut? I’m about to start the removal of the BP VUK but I just don’t see how to get to this nut. The damn wire form in on the way big time!

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#12186 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

How in the HELL do I get to this nut? I’m about to start the removal of the BP VUK but I just don’t see how to get to this nut. The damn wire form in on the way big time![quoted image]

1/4" socket with long extension or maybe a nut driver. Or maybe carefully with pliers from under the ramp if you don't have one.

#12187 4 years ago

I would love to have a printed manual!

#12188 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

1/4" socket with long extension or maybe a nut driver. Or maybe carefully with pliers from under the ramp if you don't have one.

Dang! I thought about that but the bumper cap and ramp get in the way. Do I really have to remove or loosen the clear ramp to remove the ship if I remove the VUK? I would rather not mess with that ramp unless it’s totally necessary.

Also, Does the PF rests it’s weight on these wire forms? Not sure if I should trust them or not. Sorry guys, first JJP here

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#12189 4 years ago
Quoted from JohnnyPinball007:

I would love to have a printed manual!

Quoted from KingPinGames:

i believe i have some printed pirates manuals, but i will have to check. give me a couple hours. they would be the same costs as the other JJP manuals. $100 plus shipping.

LTG : )

#12190 4 years ago

Nevermind, found an easier way

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#12191 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Nevermind, found an easier way [quoted image]

Yeah, under the ramp

Quoted from KornFreak28:

Dang! I thought about that but the bumper cap and ramp get in the way. Do I really have to remove or loosen the clear ramp to remove the ship if I remove the VUK? I would rather not mess with that ramp unless it’s totally necessary.
Also, Does the PF rests it’s weight on these wire forms? Not sure if I should trust them or not. Sorry guys, first JJP here [quoted image]

I don't think you have to remove the BP ramp if you do the VUK. I may have said that, I may be wrong. Mine's been off for a while so I forget.

You could put a towel over the backbox to help cushion it. I've never had an issue.

#12192 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Yeah, under the ramp

I don't think you have to remove the BP ramp if you do the VUK. I may have said that, I may be wrong. Mine's been off for a while so I forget.
You could put a towel over the backbox to help cushion it. I've never had an issue.

Thanks Scott! How many wires in total below to the ship? Don’t wanna mess this up

#12193 4 years ago

Btw, I think I know why the ball can’t make it up the VUK (power is all the way up) The gate is grinding the VUK’s walls.
Definitely not moving freely. We’ll take a closer look once I get it out

#12194 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Thanks Scott! How many wires in total below to the ship? Don’t wanna mess this up

I don't recall. But the all come out the same hole. Just trace them to each point. Most come apart right there, some go to lighting boards. The lighting board ones should be color coded, if not make sure you mark them. Take a pic before you remove them.

Quoted from KornFreak28:

Btw, I think I know why the ball can’t make it up the VUK (power is all the way up) The gate is grinding the VUK’s walls.
Definitely not moving freely. We’ll take a closer look once I get it out

Ah yeah, bend the wireform a bit wherever it is hitting.

#12195 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Dang! I thought about that but the bumper cap and ramp get in the way. Do I really have to remove or loosen the clear ramp to remove the ship if I remove the VUK? I would rather not mess with that ramp unless it’s totally necessary.

I took the Pearl off without touching anything on the ramp and only removing the VUK.

#12196 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Thanks Scott! How many wires in total below to the ship? Don’t wanna mess this up

Here's a link to a post with good information on removing the Pearl. I followed the recommendation to using a sharpie to number each side of the connections so it's easier to identify which ones go back together.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/65#post-4814032

#12197 4 years ago

Thanks guys! Having trouble removing the shooter lane wire form. When I try loosening this nut, the whole post (with T-nut) gets loose. The post, of course, can’t be removed since there’s stuff blocking it. Did you guys hold the post with pliers or something?

06EB0FB5-EE9C-4B99-BFF6-B4808CB148C7 (resized).jpeg06EB0FB5-EE9C-4B99-BFF6-B4808CB148C7 (resized).jpeg
#12198 4 years ago

JJP should include a printed manual for all of us getting a new playfield, may come in handy at some point!

#12199 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Thanks guys! Having trouble removing the shooter lane wire form. When I try loosening this nut, the whole post (with T-nut) gets loose. The post, of course, can’t be removed since there’s stuff blocking it. Did you guys hold the post with pliers or something?[quoted image]

Unscrew the t-nut from the bottom (if it is that loose) and just pull the post out with the ramp, if you can. Then you can fix it off the game. I can't remember if you can get the rest of that plastic out without the ramp being out of the way.

#12200 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Thanks guys! Having trouble removing the shooter lane wire form.

I might be wrong, but I don't remember needing to remove the shooter lane wire form to get the Pearl & VUK off (assuming that's why you're looking to remove the shooter wire).

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