I have no rippling around my neoprene. Did you use the narrow ones? I think that is a mistake, if anyone is doing it. The clear can't support that kind of lateral force on such a small area. Need the wider star post to spread the load. Light touch when tightening them down.

I didn't change to star posts, I still have the original narrow posts. I read somewhere that the wider star posts were to cover existing damage. Even with a star post, there is a narrow screw inside.

Are you referring to how narrow the neoprene washer is?

March 5 2019

20190815_111151 (resized).jpg

Wonka now on 1.10. POTC is amazing but I am anxious to see what improvements they have made. I am not worried too much about the wizard mode because I think I have some time before I get there.

What a bummer. Sure feels like JJP has washed their hands on this game. Too bad since it's so much fun to play. Just want it to move up to it's full potential.

Naah. They stood up on Hobbit 2 years after it was cooling down, and made it AMAZING. Huge turnaround. It may take a while because they have new games to support, but it’ll happen..

Still less than one year since the games rolled out the door and they had an update in May with another one a few months before that. If they hold a pattern of every 4-5 months for a release we’ll have 1.0 by October, which I think is right around when games shipped last year.

Positive thinking. I like it!

I’m not saying I’m confident it’ll happen. I’m just saying I think they’ve still got a bit of time until it’s time to get negative on that topic. There’s a subtle difference

jjPotC as it stands is WAY more complete and deep than any Stern release in the same timeframe since release. WAY. Another release is coming. Keith already showed some screens from it, so it's just a matter of when it's released.

AWWWWWWWWW

Yayyyyyyyyy

This is the first time I have seen the original sling posts with rubber washers as this size of washer is hard to get in Oz. The smallest we can get are M6 which have around a 13mm outer circumference. These posts have an outer circumference of 10mm. So I had some made up by a place in Melbourne that just punches them out of rubber sheets. I had 10 made up of inner 5mm, outer 10mm, 1.5mm thick. Since I had already converted my slings to dremmelled double stars I put these on places of high visibility like around the star map etc where no rippling was evident. Anywhere else which has rippling I used the larger M6 washers to hide and provide some protection.

With my slings I have no rippling anymore. The large area of pressure exerted by the large base of the double star has pressed down all ripples without creating new ripples on the outside. I have personally gone down a bit tight where the rubber compressed a bit. Just hand tight should be fine. Otherwise the surface of the rubber will cause abrasion as it moves with the slings. You want it to be bedded down. So it looks like a larger hard footprint is required softened by a rubber washer. I think I used m8 washers here. You can see my pictures in the chipping thread.

The star post under the ramp had cut through the clear completely and had bunched up clear both inside and out. I put a m10 washer on that one. That hid the ripple but I cannot put a larger base over it as right next to it is the rollover button and I did not want to affect the ball. I guess I could try a very thin large metal washer.

As stated by Mr Eagle, the miniposts cause so much vibration on the playfield at the top of the lanes. Put rubber under those metal washers. Washers in starmap, washers under black pearl ramp, washers on posts surrounding pop bumpers on right hand side of playfield and I guess the one under the dauntless.

I do find it strange that a person on the wonka thread swears that JJP discussed with him for ages the best course of action to take with his wonka that had rippling. He states that they were very helpful going through it all with him. He said that he was advised to go with the nylon over the neoprene. Whenever any pirates people have tried to discuss with JJP the best course of action and why, we hear crickets.

I would advise against using a hard washer like nylon. Reason: my miniposts had hard steel washers underneath and they rippled. Nylon will do the same. You need a large area with cushioning.

That's true, Hobbit turned out to be amazing thanks to the last few updates. It did take months and months of complaining from owners here, on the JJP Google Group, emails to Jack, and questions to JJP staff on podcasts to help let JJP know how disappointed owners were with the state of the code. Hobbit code was in a lot more rough of shape then Pirates code is now so that's good.

I really hope we don't have to go through the same thing for Pirates. Keith said he's still working on it and that's it's coming as of just over a month ago. In Keith we trust

It is at the start of a game. Nothing has happened other than I selected a character.

So "normal" game play is to have three arrows completely out, but the rest flicker? What is really silly is that the (I think it is called) inner loop mixes the colors when it flashes.

So from these comments, I am getting that my game is running just like all the other games? This tells me that mine is not a hardware malfunction, but likely a software bug?

Anyone else care to start a game, pick a character, then look at your arrows (do not shoot the ball).

Thanks to JordanB for posting how to access the Tortuga hole deflector plate....I finally installed the Cliffy yesterday. 1st time I tried to install it I failed.

Underneath, you need to back-off the nuts but don't have to take them all the way out, plus Disconnect the Spinning Motor for extra wire to be available.

IMG-4469 (resized).JPG

IMG-4470 (resized).JPG

Now, 1st time I took the cap off I undid the screws on top....don't do it as the one screw under the arm is a pain to put back in....Just need an Allen Wrench to go through hole that takes cap and plate off.

IMG-4471 (resized).JPG

take both screws off motor, then I had to remove the screws inside holding the white pop plastic, but just leave screws inside cap
IMG-4472 (resized).JPGIMG-4473 (resized).JPGIMG-4474 (resized).JPG

Also, the 2 plastic spacers you have to be careful they don't fail into back of playfield...happened the 1st time and took a while to get the damn things.

now you're able to angle the pop assembly on angle to get to plate screws

IMG-4475 (resized).JPG

IMG-4476 (resized).JPG

I put a towel down and put a magnet to catch any possible screws falling

IMG-4477 (resized).JPG

IMG-4479 (resized).JPG

IMG-4481 (resized).JPG

Now I put the deflector plate back in but forgot where it was positioned as mine always hit the left flipper, but if you look on top of your defector it should have wear ...where it hit the bottom of the wire form ramp, so that was good as I knew where it had to be position wise.

Also, I used blue tape to hold those stupid designed white spacers to keep them from falling....once you get the screws in the hole, just screw them in a little bit then pull blue tape off

IMG-4483 (resized).JPG

IMG-4485 (resized).JPG

DONE !!!! NOW I just need to do the Depths as that looks like a PIA....If anyone has install directions and pics that would be great

IMG-4485 (resized).JPG

IMG-4486 (resized).JPG

IMG-4491 (resized).JPG

I looked at my game when I played last night and prior to plunges I had the same flickering and mixing of colors on the inner orbit and map hole lights, which is done on those lights to call attention to the skill shot available off the plunge. My large red arrow on the Open Seas (outer right orbit) was also flashing the same as yours prior to plunges. And my left orbit arrow also flickered a bit. I’d have to look again tonight at the specific case of what your other unlit arrows are doing after power up and selecting a character, but it seems to make sense those would be unlit until their respective shots are made.

My thinking is the lights on your game appear to be working the same as mine prior to plunges (though I’d have to double check the specific instance of after character selection). You’ve said none of the lights on your machine are completely inoperable, and that they come on when shots are made, so it seems like your lighting is correct and that’s just how the machine is programmed. If your main issue is just with what’s going on prior to plunges and you don’t have any inoperable lights, then my thought is your game is lighting as normal. Have you viewed any archived streams online to compare how those machines are lit after character select? You’d want to view a stream of a machine that’s using the same code yours is currently running.

For Depths I just lined it up at the edge of the hole from the topside, put my middle (longest) finger on it and slowly slid it over the edge until the lip of the protector was hanging onto the edge of the hole. Then, going slowly to hold the protector in the same position, I slid my finger a fraction of an inch into the hole and pressed the back plate of the protector forward toward the front of the machine and it snapped into place. Your magnet will come in handy if you slip up and drop the protector into the hole the first couple times like I did. Also, I unscrewed the wire return from Malestrom and slid it down through the Devil’s Triangle rock as far as it would go so I could then turn it out of the way (laying more horizontal across the playfield) so it wouldn’t block my hand. Put a rag or towel on the playfield under the wire so you don’t scratch anything. It seems daunting but on my 3rd try it snapped into place easily.

I would have you take pics of your install....but they might Ban you from Pinside....Giving everyone the FINGER! THX

Inner loop and map hole are trying to tell you there is a skill shot there by mixing red and blue light. Why the dt and maelstrom and chest don’t flash like the other 6 when you start a game who knows, but it is like that on all machines I can tell. Maybe there is nothing special about those 3 at start of game. Or how about this maybe they flash to show combos available. Off of a plunge there is no combo associated with those 3 but if you hit any of the others it’s a combo piece? There has to be a reason why those don’t flash we just havnt figured it out yet. I’ll investigate the combo thing later

Im just sayin not hard to pull the glass off and test things. Flickering/dimming is the same thing. The light flickers at a high rate to dim the led a tad. Long story short question has been answered several times now. Normal operation

Just tested to see if the large arrows that flash at start of new game had anything to do with combos. Does not appear so

Anybody ever experienced thier glass not fitting?

I'm setting up an LE and well the glass seemed to fit when it was unboxed but now it does not. I finished setting it up, went to put the lockbar on and there is like a half inch of glass blocking it from seating. I'm very puzzled at the moment.

Did the rear plastic channel slip down and you aren't pushing the glass into it ?

LTG : )

Pretty sure its in the channel. I'm even pushing it with my thumb. Can these warp?

20190816_231435 (resized).jpg

20190816_231501 (resized).jpg

Look in the channel. Anything in it preventing the glass from going in ? Screw, staple, anything ?

Something back there changed. Your game didn't shrink a half inch.

LTG : )

You sure the art blades aren't misaligned and blocking the channel a bit at the top?

That only happens on the Wonka pin in Mike TeaVee mode.

Well I got the lock bar on but holy shit that was a freaking tight fit. While sliding the glass up it looked as if something isn't square. Def not the art blades, but good suggestion. I had to really push hard up on the right side of the glass and just barely shimmied the lock bar down in place.

Going to power her on tomorrow. To late to play test and troubleshoot anything tonight.

Just fyi this is one of the last LE's from the initial run. Born on date 4/29/19. Curious to see how it pans out. I recently moved my standard to my future location. That machine had an Oct. 2018 born date.
20190816_233723 (resized).jpg20190816_233832 (resized).jpg

Be careful...if the edge of that tempered glass is against the lock down bar metal striker, you're asking for shattered glass from someone banging the glass or hard nudging. Tempered glass edges and metal don't mix

Got a new problem was in the middle of a game. Decided to nudge the machine back a little. It tilted twice then just poof shut down.

Edit: Just pulled the playfield and it fired back up... wierd

Update: Put the playfield down and it shutoff again. Where should I start?
20190817_135857 (resized).jpg

Rear of playfield. Anything moving or shoving cables in rear of the cabinet and or up into the head.

LTG : )

I took off the conduit and traced them all and checked connections. I'm at a loss. No power to the cpu and no clue where to begin on this one.

I don't remember the specifics of how JJP playfields are attached to the cabinet off the top of my head, but did a wire from the bundle coming from the head catch on the playfield glide rails and short the game? This has happened to me on Stern games with very confusing results. It shorts the game when you put the PF down, but it's fine when you lift it.

I had a pirates doing something similar. It turned out to be the power cable going into the left of the PC was loose

I had a mysterious event one time pulling my machine away from the wall within the first week of ownership. The machine was on and then all of sudden..dead. No power.

First, unplug from the wall and ensure the machine is off! Lift the playfield, locate where the 3-prong power cable is plugged in, there is a plastic black cover that tents where the power cable (from the wall) connects to your machine, it’s inside the cabinet on the bottom towards the back ...take out the screws and lift this plastic tent off. There are two male connectors that may have been pulled loose. Ensure they are connected properly. Replace the plastic tent when you’re done.

Its the power supply. Just tried a new psu I had lying around and got the cpu fan to run.

Update: It's alive!

Alright kiddos take note and heed the warning manual. Don't be like WolfManCat and move your machine around while it's still on.

20190817_173334 (resized).jpg

Something weird has happened. When I first got pirates the flippers were so overpowered the ball was escaping the maelstrom and air balls everywhere. So I turned the down a notch. As the days have gone by, I noticed the flippers seemed a bit lethargic making multiballs tricky, because the balls seemed heavy and always near the flippers rather than whizzing around the playfield so I turned them back to normal and then +1. Another month goes by and I’m noticing it still happening during multiballs and ramps feel a bit yawn. So now turned left up another, and +2 to right. Wow. Suddenly feels snappy, more fun during multiball, lot more successful ramps and can now backhand right ramp.

So my question is (Lloyd or Vireland feel free to help me ):

Why have the flippers gone from overpowered to doughy in 3 months? I’ve only put about 1000 games on it. I did follow Lloyd’s fix for unbinding AFMr flippers on that machine. Is this binding against the sleeve or do flippers take time to settle? Bit stumped.

1000 games is quite a lot. Flippers do "settle in" as they're used, but have you waxed the machine? Definitely should have by that many plays - a couple times.

Have you tried tightening the two allen screws on each flipper? They should be torqued fairly tight to get full strength. May have loosened up with all the play. I've had to do this on my Hobbit and WOZ.

Usually if those are loose the flipper resting point drifts up on the playfield.

the more plays you have on a machine things will inherantly not work as they did day 1. Flippers feel sloppy maybe its time for a good cleaning of flipper mech and some new sleeves. Personally im pushing 2k games on mine and my flippers dont feel as good as they did day 1 they are still perfectly fine. Think Im currently at 25 left 25 right, havnt messed with them in a good while though so not super sure of current settigns

Might be time for new balls too if the ones in your game aren't as shiny as they used to be.

LTG : )

Funny thing is WCS94 I’ve had for 6 years. Sleeves and flippers have not been changed. Still same power. The balls are still shiny no nicks. Shall check the Allen screws. I shall also test the clearance between flipper and sleeve with my little AFMr tester thing. I waxed two weeks ago. When I say 1000 games, that’s not completed , around 400 completed. Anyway happy that game is feeling snappy again. Just surprised it changed this quickly.