(Topic ID: 200141)

JJP Pirates of the Caribbean Official Owners and Fan Club!


By goren1818

1 year ago



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#11751 7 days ago

Ya arrows have 3 states. No shots made off. Completed a piece of 9 and it will turn on. After running through at worlds end multiball the second go through you have to get each piece of 9 2 times to complete the lane. So first time hit 9 shots and multiball 2nd time hit 9 shots but 2x for multiball. The dim flickering arrow is saying that you hit the shot at least 1 time but need to hit it more to complete the piece. Hope that made sense

#11752 7 days ago
Quoted from Galooch:

That is exactly what I'm going to try and do. I realize I need to actually play this thing and not worry too much about what could or might happen. All I can do is just be knowledgeable and prepared (thanks to you all) when things come up. However, below are some preventative items (either relatively simple to do or prevent some major issue down the road) to do before really playing:
Playfield:
- install JJP star posts, washers, mylars on slings
- spot check and address all other posts for ripples
- install all mylars (including star map, BP VUK and overboard area)
- grind/remove T-nut from MAP hole (this one scares me more than it probably should)
- check/align Mystery hole deflector
- Cliffys will need to come later
Black Pearl:
- test BP VUK power setting (will start with 20)
- check BP/Dauntless cannon alignment
Miscellaneous:
- check upper flipper for SDTM alignment
- spotlight e-tape connections
- check and tighten all loose nuts
- check subway post
I already know where to locate all of these answers and posts. I just wanted feedback on this list. Anything I missed that you guys would do if you were opening a NIB? Anything here that is overkill and I should just worry about later?

Order the Black Pearl VUK opto protector from JJP. Not sure if even the late production LEs got it. It's free from JJP and easy to install.

#11753 7 days ago

24m shot also at its core is not hard to understand but can be tricky to pull off. First part to understand is the souls. Score level for all wiz modes starts at 20 (I think). Score level affect how many points your shots are worth during wizard mode. When you collect a character for a particular movie you score level will increase by 1. Super jackpots appear to be a multiplier. So if you have a score level of 22 and hit a super jackpot you score level goes to 44. Not too sure how the formula works but characters definitely give 1 score level and super jackpots multiply that number. First goal is to get a decent amount of characters and some super jackpots for that mode. Once your score level is in the 150-200 range you can try to get super x ready and leave you in lane shots 1 away from shot x. Start wizard mode hit super x, complete In lane and hit shot x. Now we have 2 multipliers going on a fat wizard mode (hitting a normal shot is 50-100k at least). Hit a proper shot next and Bam millions of points. Pretty hard to put it all together for the standard pin player but not impossible. I have gotten my score level up to 200 (1 time only) had super x ready and managed to drain after 1 shot trying to hit the super x. That 1 shot scored me 175k without any multipliers. Hope this helps and made sense

#11754 7 days ago
Quoted from Galooch:

That is exactly what I'm going to try and do. I realize I need to actually play this thing and not worry too much about what could or might happen. All I can do is just be knowledgeable and prepared (thanks to you all) when things come up. However, below are some preventative items (either relatively simple to do or prevent some major issue down the road) to do before really playing:
Playfield:
- install JJP star posts, washers, mylars on slings
- spot check and address all other posts for ripples
- install all mylars (including star map, BP VUK and overboard area)
- grind/remove T-nut from MAP hole (this one scares me more than it probably should)
- check/align Mystery hole deflector
- Cliffys will need to come later
Black Pearl:
- test BP VUK power setting (will start with 20)
- check BP/Dauntless cannon alignment
Miscellaneous:
- check upper flipper for SDTM alignment
- spotlight e-tape connections
- check and tighten all loose nuts
- check subway post
I already know where to locate all of these answers and posts. I just wanted feedback on this list. Anything I missed that you guys would do if you were opening a NIB? Anything here that is overkill and I should just worry about later?

I’d put neoprene and steel washers (steel washer on top of neoprene washer) under as many mini posts as you can get to. One mini post on mine did already have a steel washer but I couldn’t add neoprene under it because the steel washer seems to be stuck in the clear coat.

Also check that both the chest lock mech and cannon load door (in the mini playfield) are working correctly. Out of the box, my chest latch needed to be slightly bent to hold balls in and my cannon door also needed to be adjusted because it was only staying all the way up. The arm connecting it needed to be bent so the door could close. I didn’t even realize there was a cannon load door until several months after I got the machine and I noticed it on a stream and said “What the...?”

Also, make note of the post I’m linking below. Not necessary to do it now but once the rubber at the corner of the star map area wears out you’ll need to replace it, so while you’re there I think it’s a good idea to also put the 1/2 inch post sleeve there. That should prevent needing to replace the rubber ring again for a long time (also helped cut way down on balls going SDTM after chapter starts).

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/227#post-5094603

I’d also consider the POTC pirate ship protector from Pinball life. I’ve had three switch wires under the Pearl break and need re-soldering due to bounce backs off the Dauntless. It also prevents balls from getting stuck under the Pearl. I put it in and I like having it there. Here’s a link:

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=POTCCS_UK

It’s a great game to play though!!! Welcome aboard!

#11755 7 days ago
Quoted from tonycip:

I'm enjoying the game a lot, scoring 1m-2m regularly, but I need some strategy tips to break through to the next level.
I need this whole Shot X Super X Bonus X exc.. cleared up some as to when to shoot for these. someone kind of explained them back in here somewhere. are they explained in the manual? . I saw the video of the guy who had the 24m shot.. I would need a map drown out to figure out what was necessary to do that..I would be happy to get some help to get to 3-5m game .

I hear the Shot X, Super X, when I play the game and Have No CLUE what they hell it means or what to do!!!

#11756 7 days ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

So first time hit 9 shots and multiball 2nd time hit 9 shots but 2x for multiball. The dim flickering arrow is saying that you hit the shot at least 1 time but need to hit it more to complete the piece. Hope that made sense

So if I understand you correctly....the 2nd time, we need to hit each arrow/lane/ramp twice?

Also, the dim Flickering....That's Brilliant!

#11757 7 days ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

I hear the Shot X, Super X, when I play the game and Have No CLUE what they hell it means or what to do!!!

I think it means you hit the action button when there was no gold to collect and the lower display and audio are telling you the next award you will receive for completing the Pirate lanes.

#11758 7 days ago
Quoted from RTS:

I think it means you hit the action button when there was no gold to collect and the lower display and audio are telling you the next award you will receive for completing the Pirate lanes.

Shot X means the next shot you hit will be worth X times its usual value. Good for one shot. Super X starts a timer during which every shot you hit will be worth X times its usual value. So 2X is double value, 3X is triple, etc.

#11759 7 days ago
Quoted from RTS:

I think it means you hit the action button when there was no gold to collect and the lower display and audio are telling you the next award you will receive for completing the Pirate lanes.

so only hitting the action button and not hitting a target on the playfield....seems pretty easy.

#11760 7 days ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

I hear the Shot X, Super X, when I play the game and Have No CLUE what they hell it means or what to do!!!

With over 11k posts in this thread there’s a lot of information available by keyword searching. More on the multipliers here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/8#post-4637259

#11761 7 days ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

so only hitting the action button and not hitting a target on the playfield....seems pretty easy.

No, you still have to hit the target after completing the inlane to get the award The audio cue comes when you hit the action button before collecting. I didn't say it gets collected when you hit it.

#11762 7 days ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

On a different issue, I received my JJP Pirates pin about six weeks ago. It appears to me that I have a lamp issue with the arrows, or maybe this is normal. When starting up a game, the middle four arrows and the one on the right loop flicker (they are dimmer than they appear in the video), while the two left arrows are completely out.
When one of these shots is made, the arrows go full bright and all other game play is OK.
Is what you see in these videos normal for those arrow insert lamps? JJP Tech does not seem to know.
The first video is at the start of a game. The second video is during game play and the arrow to the ramp is flickering to the same frequency and the arrow behind it near the map hole.

I believe that what I see on these 2 clips is normal.

#11763 7 days ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

24m shot also at its core is not hard to understand but can be tricky to pull off. First part to understand is the souls. Score level for all wiz modes starts at 20 (I think). Score level affect how many points your shots are worth during wizard mode. When you collect a character for a particular movie you score level will increase by 1. Super jackpots appear to be a multiplier. So if you have a score level of 22 and hit a super jackpot you score level goes to 44. Not too sure how the formula works but characters definitely give 1 score level and super jackpots multiply that number. First goal is to get a decent amount of characters and some super jackpots for that mode. Once your score level is in the 150-200 range you can try to get super x ready and leave you in lane shots 1 away from shot x. Start wizard mode hit super x, complete In lane and hit shot x. Now we have 2 multipliers going on a fat wizard mode (hitting a normal shot is 50-100k at least). Hit a proper shot next and Bam millions of points. Pretty hard to put it all together for the standard pin player but not impossible. I have gotten my score level up to 200 (1 time only) had super x ready and managed to drain after 1 shot trying to hit the super x. That 1 shot scored me 175k without any multipliers. Hope this helps and made sense

Thanks for the description, very helpful!

2 questions: first one, where can you see the score level in the wizard mod? Second one, wouldn‘t it be better to start the wizard mod, having super x ready, then make the missing lane shot for shot x, activate with shooting the pirates stand up, shooting the shot x target and shot x for shooting super x?

#11764 7 days ago

It is a shame that JJP does not publish a complete rulesheet for such a complex game so that the community is forced to puzzle the details together. No need for a shiny booklet, a simple word file would be sufficient. More content, less marketing brochures.

Stern and the other manufacturers don‘t prepare this either, should be a normal procedure.

#11765 7 days ago
Quoted from Zora:

It is a shame that JJP does not publish a complete rulesheet for such a complex game so that the community is forced to puzzle the details together. No need for a shiny booklet, a simple word file would be sufficient. More content, less marketing brochures.
Stern and the other manufacturers don‘t prepare this either, should be a normal procedure.

Iron Maiden *did* have an attract mode video showing some basic shots and how to start up modes (I recall hearing that Keith fought to include this issue). POTC is mightily complex - I had to look up several of the rules myself.

on the other hand: it's pinball

#11766 7 days ago
Quoted from Zora:

Thanks for the description, very helpful!
2 questions: first one, where can you see the score level in the wizard mod? Second one, wouldn‘t it be better to start the wizard mod, having super x ready, then make the missing lane shot for shot x, activate with shooting the pirates stand up, shooting the shot x target and shot x for shooting super x?

You can view score level by cradling a ball and going to the 3rd info screen (I think). Will show you how many characters you have collected per movie as well as super jackpots and score level. And yes you can stack shot x and super x before starting wiz mode. Your 2x-6x targets would be blinking. I think he got super ready and let shot x sit on pirate inlane collect. This way he can start wiz mode and if he bangs a x target he can still get the big shot. If you stack both of them and accidently hit the x target before wiz mode you lose the chance.

#11767 7 days ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

I’d put neoprene and steel washers (steel washer on top of neoprene washer) under as many mini posts as you can get to. One mini post on mine did already have a steel washer but I couldn’t add neoprene under it because the steel washer seems to be stuck in the clear coat.
Also check that both the chest lock mech and cannon load door (in the mini playfield) are working correctly. Out of the box, my chest latch needed to be slightly bent to hold balls in and my cannon door also needed to be adjusted because it was only staying all the way up. The arm connecting it needed to be bent so the door could close. I didn’t even realize there was a cannon load door until several months after I got the machine and I noticed it on a stream and said “What the...?”
Also, make note of the post I’m linking below. Not necessary to do it now but once the rubber at the corner of the star map area wears out you’ll need to replace it, so while you’re there I think it’s a good idea to also put the 1/2 inch post sleeve there. That should prevent needing to replace the rubber ring again for a long time (also helped cut way down on balls going SDTM after chapter starts).
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/227#post-5094603
I’d also consider the POTC pirate ship protector from Pinball life. I’ve had three switch wires under the Pearl break and need re-soldering due to bounce backs off the Dauntless. It also prevents balls from getting stuck under the Pearl. I put it in and I like having it there. Here’s a link:
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=POTCCS_UK
It’s a great game to play though!!! Welcome aboard!

Hmm.

So one of these fatties?

https://www.pinballlife.com/12-sternsegadata-east-black-rubber-post-sleeve.html

Any other place these would help?

#11768 7 days ago
Quoted from Galooch:

That is exactly what I'm going to try and do. I realize I need to actually play this thing and not worry too much about what could or might happen. All I can do is just be knowledgeable and prepared (thanks to you all) when things come up. However, below are some preventative items (either relatively simple to do or prevent some major issue down the road) to do before really playing:
Playfield:
- install JJP star posts, washers, mylars on slings
- spot check and address all other posts for ripples
- install all mylars (including star map, BP VUK and overboard area)
- grind/remove T-nut from MAP hole (this one scares me more than it probably should)
- check/align Mystery hole deflector
- Cliffys will need to come later
Black Pearl:
- test BP VUK power setting (will start with 20)
- check BP/Dauntless cannon alignment
Miscellaneous:
- check upper flipper for SDTM alignment
- spotlight e-tape connections
- check and tighten all loose nuts
- check subway post
I already know where to locate all of these answers and posts. I just wanted feedback on this list. Anything I missed that you guys would do if you were opening a NIB? Anything here that is overkill and I should just worry about later?

Turn slings down to 16.

If your sling posts are ok, just go for small rubber washers underneath. Double star posts are only required if you have rippling around standard posts and/or chipping. Going to star posts does alter sling shot power and affect how the ball travels down the inlanes. Double star posts that have the lower sling groove dremmelled to have the width similar to the original post's sling groove solve the problems. But it's a bit of work.

Only use neoprene washers not the nylon ones. So I did not use any of the JJP star post fix. I did let them know it does not work, but alas no response.

As others have stated, the post rubber in the star map area is a good idea. My sling rubber was worn away in 2 months. It's an inconvenience to maintain the star map area on a regular basis.

Also as stated, grab the shield for the Black pearls VUK.

You seem to have researched everything well. My t-nut did not protrude at all. I can see it level with the wood, but the deflector above makes sure it does not brush on the way down. Also, no ball damage.

Great game. Congrats on your purchase.

#11769 7 days ago
Quoted from RTS:

No, you still have to hit the target after completing the inlane to get the award The audio cue comes when you hit the action button before collecting. I didn't say it gets collected when you hit it.

Ok thx it's sometimes confusing trying to figure things out

#11770 7 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

Hmm.
So one of these fatties?
https://www.pinballlife.com/12-sternsegadata-east-black-rubber-post-sleeve.html
Any other place these would help?

Yep, I got mine from Marco but it's the same thing. 1/2 inch high and 3/8 inch inner diameter. When I ordered I thought about whether or not it might make sense anywhere else but nothing jumped out at me. It would fit on the opposite post for the star map opening but that rubber was still in really good shape. I don't think it takes near as many direct hits like the left side does.

#11771 6 days ago

Hi all,

Haven’t seen this mentioned anywhere yet so forgive me if it was mentioned.

While removing the packing materials I noticed this long metal piece hanging down into the cab. It has two small holes on the end and freely swings down from the back of the playfield (just behind the star map magnet. What is it and should it be attached to anything? I see no screws or anything loose in the cab.

I’m hoping is a counter weight or something like that. Thanks.

image (resized).jpg
#11772 6 days ago
Quoted from Galooch:

Hi all,
Haven’t seen this mentioned anywhere yet so forgive me if it was mentioned.
While removing the packing materials I noticed this long metal piece hanging down into the cab. It has two small holes on the end and freely swings down from the back of the playfield (just behind the star map magnet. What is it and should it be attached to anything? I see no screws or anything loose in the cab.
I’m hoping is a counter weight or something like that. Thanks.[quoted image]

Uh, that's the linkage to the Black Pearl. The two holes should have screws in them and it attaches to a much smaller plate with a larger hole in it (with a white bushing). That smaller piece is likely attached to the rod which connects to the ship. Look behind the backboard, it's probably floating back there. Gonna have to find some screws (unless they are rattling around in your cabinet somewhere. You should check the cabinet for treasure, many people have found various parts floating around.

*Part #4 in the diagram is the little tab that is likely behind the backboard. The screws are 6-32 1/4"

pasted_image (resized).png
#11773 6 days ago

Thanks Harry. Quickly realized that when the BP had zero movement. I’ll see what I can find. Well we’re off to an ominous start aren’t we?

#11774 6 days ago
Quoted from Galooch:

Soooo....I am now unexpectedly part of this crazy club! Long story short, pinball fan for years...insert standard pinball story here...and always wanted to start a modest collection. I was actually waiting on the rumored JJP GNR pin to be my first. However, I have been playing POTC on location and, I have to say, I became obsessed. I debated for weeks on what to do and how I would find one. Well, a surprising opportunity came up for me to purchase a NIB LE from Automated Services in CT. Apparently, they had a very late cancellation on the game - right time, right place for me I suppose. As an aside, Automated also told me that they had also received 1-2 SEs that were still available as of late last week (if anyone is still hoping to nab a new one from a distributor). They have been really fantastic to this point and hoping that continues well into the post-sale, especially with this one.
Reading the ups and downs of this thread, the troubleshooting thread, and chipping pf thread is not for the faint of heart. I won't lie, these threads had me questioning my judgment and my purchase decision again and again. But now that it has been delivered, and seeing the family so excited, I feel SO fortunate that I was able to get one and I'm ready to jump in, learn, and have a great time. Thanks to all contributing to these threads! Your time and effort in helping others are extremely valuable, especially for new pinball owners like me.
First post ever. First pin ever. JJPPOTC LE #1012. Wish me luck...[quoted image]

Your not the only one brother...born on date 5/2/19, I had 1 switch stuck closed. Saw some connectors not fully seated but I make sure everything is tight before I hit the power button for the first time. Congrats to us!

20190813_143226 (resized).jpg20190813_164317 (resized).jpg
#11775 6 days ago
Quoted from Galooch:

Thanks Harry. Quickly realized that when the BP had zero movement. I’ll see what I can find. Well we’re off to an ominous start aren’t we?

Naw, pretty standard. Stay the course matey. Don't let the game plunder you. There be pirates and repairs ahead.

#11776 6 days ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Yep, I got mine from Marco but it's the same thing. 1/2 inch high and 3/8 inch inner diameter. When I ordered I thought about whether or not it might make sense anywhere else but nothing jumped out at me. It would fit on the opposite post for the star map opening but that rubber was still in really good shape. I don't think it takes near as many direct hits like the left side does.

Yep, leave the right post alone. You only make the star map harder to hit.

Basically, the left post is the unofficial bash toy of pirates. Right in the centre and easy to hit. Many shots going for the star map would brush past the plastic post on the left and take a piece of the rubber sling with it. Added to that, that the ball would rest against it during chapter select and then wedge, it’s only a matter of time for that sling to go.

The right one does not get hit head on, and the gap between centre post and right post is narrower so ball does not get wedged there.

Adding the 3/8” post rubber (and dremmelling the sling post groove slightly) means that the sling rubber now is protected. Ball contact is now with the post rubber and not the sling.

However! Like anything there is a trade off. Before the ball would brush past the post or ricochet inside the star map. Not with the new post rubber. Even though we are talking 1-2 mm narrower compared to the sling and post, the substance has changed. Any brushing past rubber post sleeve will now result in the ball bouncing back down the playfield. So my star map shots need to now be more accurate than before. So don’t do the right post, unless you want to make the shot harder.

#11777 6 days ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Yep, leave the right post alone. You only make the star map harder to hit.
Basically, the left post is the unofficial bash toy of pirates. Right in the centre and easy to hit. Many shots going for the star map would brush past the plastic post on the left and take a piece of the rubber sling with it. Added to that, that the ball would rest against it during chapter select and then wedge, it’s only a matter of time for that sling to go.
The right one does not get hit head on, and the gap between centre post and right post is narrower so ball does not get wedged there.
Adding the 3/8” post rubber (and dremmelling the sling post groove slightly) means that the sling rubber now is protected. Ball contact is now with the post rubber and not the sling.
However! Like anything there is a trade off. Before the ball would brush past the post or ricochet inside the star map. Not with the new post rubber. Even though we are talking 1-2 mm narrower compared to the sling and post, the substance has changed. Any brushing past rubber post sleeve will now result in the ball bouncing back down the playfield. So my star map shots need to now be more accurate than before. So don’t do the right post, unless you want to make the shot harder.

Id like to see what exactly people are doing to fix this ...

#11778 6 days ago
Quoted from kidchrisso:

Your not the only one brother...born on date 5/2/19, I had 1 switch stuck closed. Saw some connectors not fully seated but I make sure everything is tight before I hit the power button for the first time. Congrats to us!

Congrats! Not surprisingly, same born on date for #1012 5/2/19. Congrats!!

Quoted from harryhoudini:

Naw, pretty standard. Stay the course matey. Don't let the game plunder you. There be pirates and repairs ahead.

Thanks. I was able to find one of the screws hiding in the cabinet so I could at least play a game with the BP moving. I'll get another one soon.

Quoted from gumnut01:

Only use neoprene washers not the nylon ones. So I did not use any of the JJP star post fix. I did let them know it does not work, but alas no response.

I can see a slight ripple on the slings and the other posts look fine. However, I still want to take eaglepin's advice and try and put washers on as many as I can (although I'm a bit nervous to start tearing some things down so early). Do you have a link to the right neoprene washers? I want to make sure I get the right sizes, at least for the slings.

#11779 6 days ago
Quoted from Galooch:

Thanks. I was able to find one of the screws hiding in the cabinet so I could at least play a game with the BP moving. I'll get another one soon.

I can see a slight ripple on the slings and the other posts look fine. However, I still want to take eaglepin's advice and try and put washers on as many as I can (although I'm a bit nervous to start tearing some things down so early). Do you have a link to the right neoprene washers? I want to make sure I get the right sizes, at least for the slings.

Those are really common screws in pinball games, if you have any spare parts you probably have one.

If you want, I'll send you a screw and the neoprene washers. I still have a bunch, I think. PM me if you want them. Might even have some double star posts if you want them, not sure what color though.

#11780 6 days ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Yep, I got mine from Marco but it's the same thing. 1/2 inch high and 3/8 inch inner diameter. When I ordered I thought about whether or not it might make sense anywhere else but nothing jumped out at me. It would fit on the opposite post for the star map opening but that rubber was still in really good shape. I don't think it takes near as many direct hits like the left side does.

Quoted from gumnut01:

Yep, leave the right post alone. You only make the star map harder to hit.
Basically, the left post is the unofficial bash toy of pirates. Right in the centre and easy to hit. Many shots going for the star map would brush past the plastic post on the left and take a piece of the rubber sling with it. Added to that, that the ball would rest against it during chapter select and then wedge, it’s only a matter of time for that sling to go.
The right one does not get hit head on, and the gap between centre post and right post is narrower so ball does not get wedged there.
Adding the 3/8” post rubber (and dremmelling the sling post groove slightly) means that the sling rubber now is protected. Ball contact is now with the post rubber and not the sling.
However! Like anything there is a trade off. Before the ball would brush past the post or ricochet inside the star map. Not with the new post rubber. Even though we are talking 1-2 mm narrower compared to the sling and post, the substance has changed. Any brushing past rubber post sleeve will now result in the ball bouncing back down the playfield. So my star map shots need to now be more accurate than before. So don’t do the right post, unless you want to make the shot harder.

So....is this the fatty you guys both used?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/38-5151

#11781 6 days ago

Those are them. But get a titan, rubber is lame.

#11782 6 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Those are them. But get a titan, rubber is lame.

Oh, good point! Thanks HH!

Are any double star posts necessary past the two lower slings? I'd like to make one final parts order for this game, and still am not quite sure if I need more double stars past the lower slings...

#11783 6 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

Oh, good point! Thanks HH!
Are any double star posts necessary past the two lower slings? I'd like to make one final parts order for this game, and still am not quite sure if I need more double stars past the lower slings...

I didn't put them anywhere else. I think some put them in the starmap area. I guess maybe under the BP ramp since that is a sling too, but I've never had it escape.

#11784 6 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I didn't put them anywhere else. I think some put them in the starmap area. I guess maybe under the BP ramp since that is a sling too, but I've never had it escape.

Okay, cool! Yeah, I figured I'd just use the existing thin posts, with smaller diameter neoprene under all of the remaining ones on the game. I think....I'll be covered, so to speak, then.

Okay....so these fatties?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/38-5151

Screenshot_20190815-002954_Chrome (resized).jpg
#11785 6 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

Oh, good point! Thanks HH!
Are any double star posts necessary past the two lower slings? I'd like to make one final parts order for this game, and still am not quite sure if I need more double stars past the lower slings...

Only swapped posts in lower slings.

Quoted from harryhoudini:

Those are them. But get a titan, rubber is lame.

Rubber should last longer than silicone. It was a titan that rubbed away in the first place. If you want something more appealing and stronger than I suggest superbands for post sleeves (not slings though).

#11786 6 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

Okay, cool! Yeah, I figured I'd just use the existing thin posts, with smaller diameter neoprene under all of the remaining ones on the game. I think....I'll be covered, so to speak, then.
Okay....so these fatties?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/38-5151[quoted image]

Don’t do it. You’ll regret it. Rubber or superbands.

#11787 6 days ago

Heh. I stand by my Titans. They may wear a bit faster but they look awesome and play awesome. Superbands aren't stretchy enough, IMHO. I have them all, even old school white rubber (which looks like crap unless you wear white gloves installing them and never play). At least with superbands and titan you can wipe them off.

#11788 6 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Heh. I stand by my Titans. They may wear a bit faster but they look awesome and play awesome. Superbands aren't stretchy enough, IMHO. I have them all, even old school white rubber (which looks like crap unless you wear white gloves installing them and never play). At least with superbands and titan you can wipe them off.

I agree with you 100% about slings, but post sleeves should be more robust.

#11789 6 days ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Don’t do it. You’ll regret it. Rubber or superbands.

Hmm.

https://www.pinballlife.com/super-bands-colored-polyurethane-rubber-rings.html

I can't find the fatties....

Thanks everyone for the advice. Longevity is what I'm hoping most for.

#11790 6 days ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

I agree with you 100% about slings, but post sleeves should be more robust.

Have you or anyone had issues with the post sleeves from them? I haven't seen that, would be interested to know. The only real issue I have ever seen is the starfield one, in terms of lots of wear.

#11791 6 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Have you or anyone had issues with the post sleeves from them? I haven't seen that, would be interested to know. The only real issue I have ever seen is the starfield one, in terms of lots of wear.

You’re right, I have no history with post sleeves other than rubber. I just know that my rubber post sleeves have lasted over 5 years +. Black does look good there though. Not sure I would go a colour to bring attention to it.

Maybe a clear titan. Just thought it might be soft. Prove me wrong!

#11792 6 days ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

You’re right, I have no history with post sleeves other than rubber. I just know that my rubber post sleeves have lasted over 5 years +. Black does look good there though. Not sure I would go a colour to bring attention to it.
Maybe a clear titan. Just thought it might be soft. Prove me wrong!

I have some of those size here, I'll put them in. But I guarantee they will be 100% pristine in the many months to come.

My game hasn't been whole for many weeks.

#11793 6 days ago
Quoted from Galooch:

Do you have a link to the right neoprene washers? I want to make sure I get the right sizes, at least for the slings.

I got my neoprene washers for the mini posts at Home Depot. I think they were 3/16 inner diameter (hole size) and 1/2 inch outer diameter. I’ll check tonight when I get home and then update this post with a link. I didn’t put any under the sling posts yet. That’s this weekend’s to-do.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-16-in-x-1-2-in-Black-Neoprene-Washer-4-Piece-815728/204276433

#11794 6 days ago

Yep that’s the one I bought. It’s working very well.

#11795 6 days ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

On a different issue, I received my JJP Pirates pin about six weeks ago. It appears to me that I have a lamp issue with the arrows, or maybe this is normal. When starting up a game, the middle four arrows and the one on the right loop flicker (they are dimmer than they appear in the video), while the two left arrows are completely out.
When one of these shots is made, the arrows go full bright and all other game play is OK.
Is what you see in these videos normal for those arrow insert lamps? JJP Tech does not seem to know.
The first video is at the start of a game. The second video is during game play and the arrow to the ramp is flickering to the same frequency and the arrow behind it near the map hole.

Not sure I am getting an answer on this that I understand. Could someone with a Pirates start a game and see if any of the arrows are on low, flickering like in my video?

To clarify, these arrows go to full brightness after the shot is made. It is before the any shots have been made that some of these arrows flicker.

There are 9 arrows in this pin.

*At start up, the left two and the chest are out completely (until the shot is made). That accounts for 3 of 9 arrows
*The rest (6) all flicker.
-Map shot flashes as it should, then flickers red.
-Inner loop flashes as it should, but has a red flicker mixed into it.
-I cannot tell if the right loop is flickering, or on full brightness.

This video is at the start of the game. I selected a character, but did not shoot the ball.

#11796 6 days ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

If your sling posts are ok, just go for small rubber washers underneath.

Quoted from gumnut01:

Only use neoprene washers not the nylon ones.

I put on neoprene washers on Day 1, the same day I unboxed my game. The clear around my sling posts was perfect - no damage because the game hadn't been played.

Six weeks later, I can now see rippling has formed in the clear at the base of the sling posts.

It looks like neoprene washers are no better than the JJP nylon washers.

Has anyone else noticed rippling with neoprene?

#11797 6 days ago
Quoted from RTS:

I put on neoprene washers on Day 1, the same day I unboxed my game. The clear around my sling posts was perfect - no damage because the game hadn't been played.
Six weeks later, I can now see rippling has formed in the clear at the base of the sling posts.
It looks like neoprene washers are no better than the JJP nylon washers.
Has anyone else noticed rippling with neoprene?

Weird...

Do you know offhand your manufacturing date?

#11798 6 days ago

Arrows look normal to me. There is soo much with machine that the lights try to tell you multiple things. Map hole is flashing blue wanting you to go for skill shot off plunge same with inner loop. Left 2 I dont thin k come on until you hit the shot (although it would make sense if they rotated like the others). Chest I believe should flash in line with the others (yours was not). Was this a fresh game no balls plunged yet? Have you went through the menu tests and manually checked the light you are concerned about?

*edit NVM my chest also does not flash. So ya my stuff looks exactly like yours. Normal behavior. I now wonder though what those arrows are flickerflashing for. Maybe its just a programming bug and DT AWE and Chest should flickerflash like the others. Nothing particularly comes to mind that wouldnt use those 3.

#11799 6 days ago
Quoted from RTS:

I put on neoprene washers on Day 1, the same day I unboxed my game. The clear around my sling posts was perfect - no damage because the game hadn't been played.
Six weeks later, I can now see rippling has formed in the clear at the base of the sling posts.
It looks like neoprene washers are no better than the JJP nylon washers.
Has anyone else noticed rippling with neoprene?

I’m not sure, but I think it’s a case of two different issues. One issue is rippling, and another issue is chipping. I put neoprene washers under the mini posts to try to prevent chipping at the base of them. I don’t know, but I don’t think a washer is going to prevent rippling, regardless of what material the washer is. If the clear is shifting and causing rippling I think it’s going to happen no matter what material the clear is pushing against.

#11800 6 days ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

Not sure I am getting an answer on this that I understand. Could someone with a Pirates start a game and see if any of the arrows are on low, flickering like in my video?
To clarify, these arrows go to full brightness after the shot is made. It is before the any shots have been made that some of these arrows flicker.
There are 9 arrows in this pin.
*At start up, the left two and the chest are out completely (until the shot is made). That accounts for 3 of 9 arrows
*The rest (6) all flicker.
-Map shot flashes as it should, then flickers red.
-Inner loop flashes as it should, but has a red flicker mixed into it.
-I cannot tell if the right loop is flickering, or on full brightness.

To clarify, what’s going on game-wise when the video was taken? I hear the “What are you waiting for?” callout, so I’m guessing it’s either the start of a new game or between balls on a game in progress, where some shots have already been made on a previous ball. The brightness of the right loop arrow seemed normal when it flashed. Your description of the arrows going solid after hitting the shots while others might be flickering seems consistent with normal game play.

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