(Topic ID: 200141)

JJP Pirates of the Caribbean Official Owners and Fan Club!


By goren1818

2 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Munsters
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There are 12953 posts in this topic. You are on page 227 of 260.
#11301 4 months ago

Does anybody know the part for the flush bolt that attaches the pop bumper solenoid brackets to the playfield. Can’t find it in the manual. Might be good to plug up the unused holes that are chipping.

#11302 4 months ago
Quoted from dannunz:

If you guys want to see some never before seen pictures and great commentary from Eric on the making of POTC go here and see his seminar at Pintastic 2019.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1hsYk9HhlG9AxvS2IgaUkA

It's interesting that he originally had the ship's wheel above the two targets between the spinners.

Drop targets in front of the chest entrance would have been cool, too.

#11303 4 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Does anybody know the part for the flush bolt that attaches the pop bumper solenoid brackets to the playfield. Can’t find it in the manual. Might be good to plug up the unused holes that are chipping.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/237-5883-00 Don't know if your idea would work or cause more damage going in ?

LTG : )

#11304 4 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Does anybody know the part for the flush bolt that attaches the pop bumper solenoid brackets to the playfield. Can’t find it in the manual. Might be good to plug up the unused holes that are chipping.

Think it might be these

1/4-20 x 1-1/4” Carriage Bolt, Black

#11305 4 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/237-5883-00 Don't know if your idea would work or cause more damage going in ?
LTG : )

Oh. Thanks Lloyd. Different to what I thought. I might try one of these black carriage bolts.

https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/playfield-parts/bolts/4308-01123-32b.html

Edit : found it in the manual

12 6-32 x 1-1/4” Screw Nail, Fin Shank, Black

Thanks again Lloyd. I might go carefully with a few different options. Or I can put another post in. Just trying to combat this

image (resized).jpg
#11306 4 months ago

Oh shit. Here’s another one!

60E06893-EA3F-4408-935A-D482EFA4E1EE (resized).jpeg
#11307 4 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/237-5883-00 Don't know if your idea would work or cause more damage going in ?
LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd

Just used standard 3/8 bolt. Not pretty but hopefully stops chipping
image (resized).jpg

Edit: will post all others in chipping thread. I know some people had problems with “I” lane posts.

#11308 4 months ago
Quoted from dannunz:

If you guys want to see some never before seen pictures and great commentary from Eric on the making of POTC go here and see his seminar at Pintastic 2019.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1hsYk9HhlG9AxvS2IgaUkA

Watched it tonight. Very interesting.

#11309 4 months ago

Funny question... I can't get my damn backglass off on Pirates. It's so tight I unlocked it and it wont budge. Should i unscrew the top by the speakers? 20 minutes i give up.

#11310 4 months ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Funny question... I can't get my damn backglass off on Pirates. It's so tight I unlocked it and it wont budge. Should i unscrew the top by the speakers? 20 minutes i give up.

try loosening the two torx screws by the lock and see if that helps.

#11311 4 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Thanks Lloyd
Just used standard 3/8 bolt. Not pretty but hopefully stops chipping
[quoted image]
Edit: will post all others in chipping thread. I know some people had problems with “I” lane posts.

The horror. At least put a metal washer over the rubber. And use a bolt without a lock washer on it. And you can just put another post in that hole instead, with a donut on it.

#11312 4 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

The horror. At least put a metal washer over the rubber. And use a bolt without a lock washer on it. And you can just put another post in that hole instead, with a donut on it.

Can add a post. Didn’t have one. Need to order. Holes are too close together to washer correctly. Can’t even put nuts on correctly underneath. I may put a metal plate with rubber underneath.

#11313 4 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Oh. Thanks Lloyd. Different to what I thought. I might try one of these black carriage bolts.
https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/playfield-parts/bolts/4308-01123-32b.html
Edit : found it in the manual
12 6-32 x 1-1/4” Screw Nail, Fin Shank, Black
Thanks again Lloyd. I might go carefully with a few different options. Or I can put another post in. Just trying to combat this[quoted image]

Jeez, seeing thoose pictures kind of makes you wonder if it was intentional.
Maybe they went with an eventual wave effect all over the board?
Afterall it is a pirate theme.

#11314 4 months ago

Alright! Put rubbers under all my posts. Everyone of the f$&@ers were chipped and rippled.

Anyway happy cos I fixed my star map!!!

First I mylared in there. It was dimpled and very dirty. Then I put a big FAT post sleeve on the left post of the star map. And dremmelled the left post sling groove so the sling sits a little bit in compared to the sleeve.

Result: ball no longer gets wedged at end of star map on left hand side and left sling will not get worn out in 4 weeks. Ball sits between fat post sleeve and retractable post. Oh and replaced titans with perfect plays.

Here’s the pic for proof:

77B7660A-A2F8-4AB6-BCFD-C0EE823C9CF5 (resized).jpeg
#11315 4 months ago

Wow I really can’t belive all the movement in the playfield and the cracking it’s quite disappointing and worrying. If this were a stern game pitch forks would be out and Gary would be on a stake. Not cool and it kind of scares me off buying one a little

#11316 4 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Anyway happy cos I fixed my star map!!!

Sweet! No more SDTM from it for you?

#11317 4 months ago
Quoted from Audioenslaved:

Wow I really can’t belive all the movement in the playfield and the cracking it’s quite disappointing and worrying. If this were a stern game pitch forks would be out and Gary would be on a stake. Not cool and it kind of scares me off buying one a little

Hard to
Imagine this wasn’t one of the reasons they decided to hold off on production. There were rumors the game wasn’t selling, but obviously that’s not the case, since all distributors are sold out. I’m sure their profit was just razor thin on this one.

#11318 3 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Sweet! No more SDTM from it for you?

Yeah. I think so. These sleeves are much tougher than the sling rubbers. Really advise others to add. It’s not that ugly and will save you from replacing the sling on a regular basis.

Happy to have added Mylar in there as well.

Now I have added rubber under every post hopefully no degradation of playfield going forward. It is fun trying to undo nylon nuts with t nuts underneath! Resulted in a lot of cursing. Soon found out you need an extra spanner.

This game is just so good it’s worth it putting the effort in.

#11319 3 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Alright! Put rubbers under all my posts. Everyone of the f$&@ers were chipped and rippled.
Anyway happy cos I fixed my star map!!!
First I mylared in there. It was dimpled and very dirty. Then I put a big FAT post sleeve on the left post of the star map. And dremmelled the left post sling groove so the sling sits a little bit in compared to the sleeve.
Result: ball no longer gets wedged at end of star map on left hand side and left sling will not get worn out in 4 weeks. Ball sits between fat post sleeve and retractable post. Oh and replaced titans with perfect plays.
Here’s the pic for proof:[quoted image]

do you have a link where you got the sleeve?

#11320 3 months ago
Quoted from Heater:

do you have a link where you got the sleeve?

My pinball tech helped me move bad cats to my parents place and I just took some sleeves from him.

I measured it and compared it. Also having the post on 1.2mm or more of rubber washer will also lift slings up out of the way so the ball makes contact with the sleeve and not the sling.

Here it is:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/38-5151

I think it is better to putting in a star post. A star post would make the entrance to the star map narrower. I think star posts are too short as well.

#11322 3 months ago

Here is why I added Mylar in the star map. First without Mylar. See the amount of dimpling. Magnet really throws it around. Got a bubble underneath the Mylar but can’t see it.

FA3E4EE4-91AA-4FDB-B945-821737541939 (resized).jpeg2A0D139A-8BEA-43FF-B49C-F5CA44973BAF (resized).jpeg
#11323 3 months ago

I'm not sure silicone it going to last the distance. Especially since this product is what wore away in the first place. If people don't like black (although I hear it looks awesome on pop bumpers ), then go with superbands for post sleeves. The Poly should last a lot longer.

#11324 3 months ago

gumnut01 I did the same on mine.

51C984DE-C0B0-482B-875A-BE5DF462B1BE (resized).jpeg
#11325 3 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Thanks Lloyd
Just used standard 3/8 bolt. Not pretty but hopefully stops chipping
[quoted image]
Edit: will post all others in chipping thread. I know some people had problems with “I” lane posts.

Ok fixed wave and chipping in “I” lane

524FB317-4D41-4120-953D-627B22995859 (resized).jpeg
#11326 3 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Ok fixed wave and chipping in “I” lane[quoted image]

What type of part is that?

#11327 3 months ago

I dont havnt anythinh chipping yet, But what should I do to prevent it? Also is jjp shioping new posts? Thanks guys.

#11328 3 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Alright! Put rubbers under all my posts. Everyone of the f$&@ers were chipped and rippled.
Anyway happy cos I fixed my star map!!!
First I mylared in there. It was dimpled and very dirty. Then I put a big FAT post sleeve on the left post of the star map. And dremmelled the left post sling groove so the sling sits a little bit in compared to the sleeve.
Result: ball no longer gets wedged at end of star map on left hand side and left sling will not get worn out in 4 weeks. Ball sits between fat post sleeve and retractable post. Oh and replaced titans with perfect plays.
Here’s the pic for proof:[quoted image]

Fuck this is horrible man.... I'm really sorry you've had this issue...

How many plays are you at, and how many posts do you think you placed neoprene under?

I kind of feel like I need to do this myself before playing again. This clearcoat issue feels like a swamp.

#11329 3 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Ok fixed wave and chipping in “I” lane[quoted image]

On a related topic, if the game coming to me hasn't been played since it was built and tested, this issue would be less likely to happen right? My thinking behind that is the clear coat should have hardened further in the few months since the thing was built so those posts haven't been getting hammered by a steel ball. I still plan to read up on the instructions here and add the washers under the worst posts.

Thanks

#11330 3 months ago

Is there any more information as to whether or not JJP will be releasing a Special Edition of POTC in the near future?

#11331 3 months ago
Quoted from AJB4:

Is there any more information as to whether or not JJP will be releasing a Special Edition of POTC in the near future?

Yes, there is actually. Jack said it definitely won't happen in 2019 on a special when lit Wonka stream. That's the latest

#11332 3 months ago
Quoted from AJB4:

Is there any more information as to whether or not JJP will be releasing a Special Edition of POTC in the near future?

Not near future, but I expect they will make more after GnR, but before Toy Story. Probably 1Q 2020.

#11333 3 months ago

That is VERY helpful.
THANK YOU!!!
AJB

#11334 3 months ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

On a related topic, if the game coming to me hasn't been played since it was built and tested, this issue would be less likely to happen right? My thinking behind that is the clear coat should have hardened further in the few months since the thing was built so those posts haven't been getting hammered by a steel ball. I still plan to read up on the instructions here and add the washers under the worst posts.
Thanks

In theory yes it could be better. It really depends on how long between clearcoat and assembly on how bad the issue will be. All things considered I would assume most potc have the issue somewhere. On a side note had a surprise package yesterday. My Cliffys finally came in. Got the outlane depths and tortuga ones installed. Pretty straightforward one thing I will mention and I know it has been mentioned before. Outlane cliffys should be installed in the N orientation. The U orientation the switch wire and the cliffy hit. Will work either way, but not sure how the wire and cliffy hitting long term would hold up (probably just fine).

#11335 3 months ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

In theory yes it could be better. It really depends on how long between clearcoat and assembly on how bad the issue will be. All things considered I would assume most potc have the issue somewhere. On a side note had a surprise package yesterday. My Cliffys finally came in. Got the outlane depths and tortuga ones installed. Pretty straightforward one thing I will mention and I know it has been mentioned before. Outlane cliffys should be installed in the N orientation. The U orientation the switch wire and the cliffy hit. Will work either way, but not sure how the wire and cliffy hitting long term would hold up (probably just fine).

Got my cliffys yesterday too! A batch must have gone out.

I am strangely hesitant to install them.

#11336 3 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Got my cliffys yesterday too! A batch must have gone out.
I am strangely hesitant to install them.

Meh they were super easy to install and I actually like the way they look. Now the Map hole one is a different story. Gonna bust that one out tomorrow.

#11337 3 months ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

Meh they were super easy to install and I actually like the way they look. Now the Map hole one is a different story. Gonna bust that one out tomorrow.

Have you removed the BP yet?

#11338 3 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

What type of part is that?

Bit of aluminium flat cut with dremmel and angle grinder with rubber washers underneath. Had to protect wave that had started. I guess it’s like a home made cliffy.

Quoted from wesman:

Fuck this is horrible man.... I'm really sorry you've had this issue...
How many plays are you at, and how many posts do you think you placed neoprene under?
I kind of feel like I need to do this myself before playing again. This clearcoat issue feels like a swamp.

The chipping and ripples are now contained. Most was because of posts cutting through clear. I can fully enjoy it now. Under a thousand plays. My clear is hard and does not dent from fingernail test.

I shall document in the other thread.

Quoted from PinballTilt:

On a related topic, if the game coming to me hasn't been played since it was built and tested, this issue would be less likely to happen right? My thinking behind that is the clear coat should have hardened further in the few months since the thing was built so those posts haven't been getting hammered by a steel ball. I still plan to read up on the instructions here and add the washers under the worst posts.
Thanks

The damage for mine was mostly done at the factory by Jack’s workers over tightening posts directly onto soft clear. As the clear has hardened it becomes brittle. This mostly happens where posts are put under strain at slings, near bumpers and where the ball hits. I feel now that all the ripples and chips under posts are now compressed under rubber the problem should hopefully be resolved. As I said my clear seems hard now. Around the same build as harryhoudini’s machine, August 2018.

Just remember there is another sling under the ramp, and all those posts next to the bumpers and in the star map. They all get hit hard.

#11339 3 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Bit of aluminium flat cut with dremmel and angle grinder with rubber washers underneath. Had to protect wave that had started. I guess it’s like a home made cliffy.

The chipping and ripples are now contained. Most was because of posts cutting through clear. I can fully enjoy it now. Under a thousand plays. My clear is hard and does not dent from fingernail test.
I shall document in the other thread.

The damage for mine was mostly done at the factory by Jack’s workers over tightening posts directly onto soft clear. As the clear has hardened it becomes brittle. This mostly happens where posts are put under strain at slings, near bumpers and where the ball hits. I feel now that all the ripples and chips under posts are now compressed under rubber the problem should hopefully be resolved. As I said my clear seems hard now. Around the same build as harryhoudini’s machine, August 2018.
Just remember there is another sling under the ramp, and all those posts next to the bumpers and in the star map. They all get hit hard.

Well, I'm glad you went and got things locked down, sooner rather than later. Thank you for detailing your efforts!

POTC, the game that just keeps giving...........maintenance tasks.

#11340 3 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Well, I'm glad you went and got things locked down, sooner rather than later. Thank you for detailing your efforts!
POTC, the game that just keeps giving...........maintenance tasks.

I did enjoy it actually. Since the playfield will be the same I don’t know if I want to throw another grand Aussie for another of the same. Will just try to look after this one.

#11341 3 months ago

Guys are the siderails just attached by screws or is there adhesive underneath them? Thinking about powdercoating them. If its adhesive ill leave em be.

#11342 3 months ago

I just ordered a POTC from a distributor today. Hoping for the best when I receive it

#11343 3 months ago
Quoted from splitcms:

I just ordered a POTC from a distributor today. Hoping for the best when I receive it

What distributor?

#11344 3 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Have you removed the BP yet?

Yes a couple times now

#11345 3 months ago
Quoted from splitcms:

I just ordered a POTC from a distributor today. Hoping for the best when I receive it

SE?

#11346 3 months ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Guys are the siderails just attached by screws or is there adhesive underneath them? Thinking about powdercoating them. If its adhesive ill leave em be.

Each side rail is attached at two points in the front and back. There is a small phillips head at the back. And from the front, lift the pf and remove the nut from inside to detach.

The rail does have two sided tape at three spots, one at each end and one in the center. They are about 4 inches long. I'll attach a pic.

I used a wide plastic scraper to slide inside to remove the seal.

20190716_201421 (resized).jpg
#11347 3 months ago
Quoted from RTS:

Each side rail is attached at two points in the front and back. There is a small phillips head at the back. And from the front, lift the pf and remove the nut from inside to detach.
The rail does have two sided tape at three spots, one at each end and one in the center. They are about 4 inches long. I'll attach a pic.
I used a wide plastic scraper to slide inside to remove the seal.[quoted image]

Does it wreck the cabinet artwork? Any tips or tricks? I'd hate to damage it. Also do I need tape of some sort when I put new rails back on? Thanks!

#11348 3 months ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Does it wreck the cabinet artwork? Any tips or tricks? I'd hate to damage it. Also do I need tape of some sort when I put new rails back on? Thanks!

No damage to the cabinet if you use a firm but flexible plastic scraper (not metal.) Since the adhesive tape is only in 3 spots, you can get the scraper inside somewhat easily.

Slide the scraper slowly left or right. Don't pry it up. Take your time. You don't want to put a bend in the rails.

There is hardware attaching it, so it will stay on without tape. Depends on your level of OCD. I intend to get some tape to make sure it stays tight.

#11349 3 months ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Does it wreck the cabinet artwork? Any tips or tricks? I'd hate to damage it. Also do I need tape of some sort when I put new rails back on? Thanks!

When you stop by I can show you which 3M tape to use. Standard autoparts store molding tape. I find a bit of heat from a hair dryer lets you remove the old adhesive mounts with little effort or damage. Simple to do have done it Many times.

#11350 3 months ago

Yes SE. only one they had and it was a miracle to even get, so I can’t complain.

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