I’ve owned a dialed in, it’s a fun game, but it’s no masterpiece, it can be scratched off that list based on theme alone. POTC is way way way more fun.

IMO

POTC: best overall: most fast action high fun rate. Quite possibly the best repeatable loop in all of pinball. Stacking on stacking on stacking... multi-balls for days and gold button slamming for fun!

Dialed in: great smooth shot layout, most flow, poor theme.

Hobbit: best feeling of an epic journey, love the bash toys and the multi level wizard modes. Best integration of movie clips/music/ animations into any of the games. last code update makes the game feel the most polished.

WOZ: best playfield, most innovative when released, feels least likely out of all of them to complete the master wizard mode, although hobbit is neck and neck! Potc still remains to be seen on that front. This game is a classic because it was the first of its kind and one of the most beautiful pins in history.

.

Figures you gotta take in the rum first if you wanna put up your best score and be the ruler of the high seas!

0290C1A0-A2BD-447F-92F6-CCB38EB0A639.jpeg

4F769C53-228A-45D4-94D2-D511467F1464.jpeg

.

I have 4 stuck switches, 3 on the boat. Physically pushed on each target, no response so I could use some guidance on how to proceed. Where is the left orbit enter switch at, shows just below Maelstrom. Thanks...

20181111_190620 (resized).jpg

20181111_190645 (resized).jpg

You likely have a broken wire to one of those switches. Look for a green wire that broke.

Ok, thanks. I'm assuming I will need to remove the boat or would that be directly under the playfield?

Just looked back on the thread, ship removal....

Just to try to clear up any confusion, dedicated switch 21 is the "5th coin slot switch", matrix switch 21 is the "upper slingshot low". On JJPOTC, your dedicated switches are cabinet switches and your matrix switches are on the playfield. I never stopped to think about it, but I believe most games are set up this way these days.

Pdxmonkey is right, you have a green wire broken under the ship. Those switches are daisy chained underneath the ship, look at the stand up target tabs on the last target that works. It should have a green wire that broke off of one of the tabs. Those wires were really pulled together in a tight bundle underneath the ship and they break right at the tab. Just fixed this problem last week. You will need to tilt the boat up to get at the switches. You will need a 1/8" hex wrench, a t-handle would be best, to remove the screw behind the ship. Then, pull the clip holding the arm that connects to the rod that runs through the back of the playfield. Once the arm and screw has been removed, push the ship toward the back of the game about a quarter to a half inch and that should move it off the brackets underneath. Then you should be able to move the ship up and to the left to get at the switches.

Switch 77 is unrelated and could be a broken wire or perhaps that switch hasn't been activated in a while--Just realized that switch 77 is an opto. On Pirates, the opto switches can come loose from wherever they are attached. These switches are real small, more than likely one side or the other has come loose and the opto beam is staying open. Look for a loose black switch on the top of the playfield in the orbit area. Snap it back in and you will probably be okay.

Thanks, located the broken wire, did you pull the wire from the ziptie to get more length or just extend by adding another wire to it etc.? I'll look for the loose switch tomorrow...

I have the same MS #12 stuck open as well, and had a couple of the others. They went away but #12 has stuck around. When I go into switch tests and touch that switch it does not register. I am wondering if I need to adjust that leaf switch or possibly have a wire in between it.

So you got it fixed? What was the issue?
Damn, that's a flipping awesome score!!!!

Well, I solved the switch 21 low stuck closed issue. The switch was wedged under the ramp in the closed position. I’m thinking a hard hit off the pops may have caused this so this will be something for everyone to keep an eye on.

Now can anyone tell what this white plastic thing is under the ramp between the upper/lower 21 switches is?

16FE8EDB-757B-4EC6-814C-17745C33047D (resized).jpeg

Its a slingshot...

The switches activate that sling...

When I press it while in the switch matrix it doesn’t register as anything, should it? The leaf switches fore and aft of it register hits now, they previously didn’t when the fore/lower was stuck closed.

Based on the pic and your description, I had my switch get stuck there too. The issue for me, the switch that activates that sling was too long and was getting stuck under the ramp. I simply trimmed it with scissors to solve the problem.

I took it apart and attempted a fix but couldnt get it to stop binding. The issue is with the 2 coil retaining brackets not holding the coil tight enough and it moving to much, and or the coil sleeve. So that score is actually without the upper left flipper on the ship lol.

Thanks for the compliment though! I love this game. It’s super good.

No, it kicks the ball when a ball hits the rubber ring activating the switches fore and aft.

LTG : )

So the replay setting to free game does trigger a nice animation when achieved.

It’s a bit odd to have it set to free game when on free play though, anyone have it set to extra ball to see if it generates the same extra ball animation as you normall see for extra ball? Maybe it’s the same animation as the free game setting since it’s tied to replay? Didn’t have a chance to explore that

,
Got the switch snapped back in under Maelstrom, the hardest location. Had to have the wife do it, small hands. Thanks again...

Just a heads up but I was adjusting my upper pf right flipper today and tightening the lamp post for the upper pf when I realized the most upper pop bumper spins too. I was unaware of this as mine hasn’t been spinning! The culprit was the wire form ramp coming off the Black Pearl was ever so slightly touching it. All good now!

On another note, replay set to free game provides good video content where extra ball is just the usual extra ball callout/animation.

Completely agree with this. The one recommendation I have for continued code development is to change up the Movie Wizard modes. There is just no excitement when you get to them. Single ball in play, no intensity, animations are lackluster. Absolutely able to improve this in code. When you hit Battle of Five Armies in The Hobbit, you know it and everyone around you knows it! Just epic. POTC, not so much. You would miss it if you didn’t know any better. Having said that, gameplay is truly amazing. Pirate theme is solid. Movie theme integration really can’t match The Hobbit but that’s actually ok for me as I am not a huge POTC movie fan. But absolutely some of the most fun you can have playing a pinball machine IMHO (at least while the honeymoon period is in effect!)

Has anyone installed pinblades yet? I’d like to see what they look like and where you got them.

With the CE's coming shortly, are there any changes occurring on the production line to try and prevent all of the above mishaps? Like a couple pinsiders have stated, it would be disappointing to pay top dollar for an amazing only to have multiple problems that were discovered early on in the game's release. I've had small issues in the past but some of these seem pretty labor intensive.

Anyone have a lead on a POTC LE in Northern California? If so, shoot me a PM with details and price. Ready to buy

Is that normal ? I can lift up the disc. Space between screw and washer. Or is there something to adjust ? Seems that the disc is a little bit too high.

Also the Disc is very loud... should I use some grease?

6F621424-86B0-48A1-ACF9-A2CDE566CDCE (resized).jpeg

Yes that is normal. As gravity will hold it down there is no issue. If your disk is slightly to high simply loosen the white large jamb nut and rotate the knurled hub to correct height. Then lock the jamb nut back in place. If noisy you may need to remove the entire assembly (8 screws) and make sure the motor gear is meshing correctly with the disk. Simply loosen the 2 screws holding the motor and gear and adjust closer to the disk gear. Photos are in this thread. Just don't make it mesh to tightly or it will be louder. Good luck very simple adjustments.

Ok i give it a try, thank you

Completed the "At World's End" wizard mode last night!

More fanfare would be cool. I do hope they keep it single ball play though - there's already enough multiballs in the game.

Agree, the game could use just a little more fanfare polish in general, example the maelstrom ramp. Would be cool to see a generic scene of the maelstrom from at worlds end.

I would also like to see some Flying Dutchman action in the game, give me some tripple cannon action or the ship busting out of the water! The Queen Anne’s Revenge is in the game as is Salazar’s ship, why no Dutchman?

Just my wishlist!

Looks great! Was the topper a direct swap out or did you have to modify any wiring? The LE topper is not all that impressive. Even the lighting effects don't synch to the game very much if at all.

See post #410 and #429

Do you access disc gears from topside or bottom?

I got the impression you remove the disc but not the 8 screws holding the assembly in place, is this correct?

I took Yelobird advice and I did have a loose fit with motor gear fitting into the spinner gear. I positioned the tip of motor gear into the spinner with about a toothpick tip space between and I reduced noise a good bit.

I think the noise could be reduced more from underneath by covering the exposed spinner area on sides of housing.

Not sure if this would be I’ll advised or worth the effort.

I usually have the game cranked up so loud I can't hear the spinner anyways

Is there a walkthrough video/pictures for trying this? I hate tearing apart "big" mechs on games I always seem to screw something up rather than fix things.

I thought it was going to be more daunting but disconnect the two electrical connections and remove 8 screws bottom of Pf.
Disk will come right out. Two screws holding motor in place, loosen and adjust motor closer or further from the disk gear teeth, likely closer will be needed. Too loose of a fit creates the grinding sloppy noise.

Re-tighten 2 motor screws,put spinner back in hole, install the 8 screws, connect the two connectors and done.

Hope this helps!

I will have to make this adjustment too!

It probably reduces the noise by 10-20% but a better way to describe is it seemed to eliminate the worst erratic grinding sawing noises I would occasionally here.

I’m good with it now!

The email that I too have been longing for:

"Your Pirates of the Caribbean LE has shipped!"

Thanks Nitro

My son created another pin cup to go with the one he made for The Hobbit. Looks great!

210EBC18-705D-4C74-875E-075C31C19BF5 (resized).jpeg31750994-7A2B-4A8D-BE1C-2D0F88BFAA82 (resized).jpeg

I really hope that JJP is making adjustments at the factory for Pirates based on the issues being reported by owners of the first batch of games. The early issues being reported are not easy for most owners to fix. Broken wires, and major ship and disk adjustments issues are not acceptable and should have been caught at the factory. As prices have continued to go up so have expectations that quality control will remain high.

I had a couple minor issues on my Dialed In LE that I purchased this past May. Nothing major but the issues should have been caught at the factory. I honestly think my Hobbit and WOZ had less issues out of the box and both came with a superior powder coat then what JJP is using today on Dialed In LE and Pirates LE.

Here's hoping that these issues do not represent a trend downward in JJP build quality and that things get tightened up with the latest production games.

I was on the production floor in NJ last week. Every issue that I've seen on here has been accounted for and corrected on games now going out the door. No more leg bolt issues, topper issues, or broken wires on the pearl. Other tweaks on the production floor should have the game arriving as close to perfection as any pinball possibly can. And if it doesn't, you know where to find me.

That's great to hear Eric Awesome news, thank you.

For those who are getting their POTC now, check the pearl rocking motion and make sure the wires have the proper length. If not cut the small zip tie to allow for more length to free them up. I had 3 wires, see pic and had to remove the switch off the pearl so I could solder the green on the backside and the white on the front. While it is an easy fix, it took some time to disconnect the ship, switch etc. This is my first pin and thanks to my 20 plus years of building / modding computers which included soldering ect. which really helped me through this as well as those who helped on this forum. It made this much easier and all is working well now. So, thank you to all who post on here. Love the game, it was played everyday last weekend (many hours) as well as the holiday never thought I would be a pinhead...

20181113_154807 (resized).jpg

Sometimes I have a crack in the speaker during gameplay, is that normal ?

Thanks for mentioning this, I get popping as the pin boots up, Eric, is this normal? I know if you increase volume in settings past default it mentions possible clipping in sound...

I get both the pop on boot up which is fairly normal, but I also get the cracks every now and then in the gameplay audio.