You can retrofit the characters/spinning if you wanted, I think... they are just little DC Motors like in little toys and either you can buy the JJP pop toppers (Not sure) or add your own (maybe you can make the mezelmods ones spin).

I don't think you can just replace the GI boards. They are not just LEDs but RGB boards with multi-wire control connections. Oh... hum... you know, maybe this is just the WOZ 2.0 system I am referring to. Not sure what the non-RGB games look like under the playfield or what is different. If it is just the boards, maybe the wires exist and you just need to get new GI boards or maybe you need the hookup wires as well. Unsure exactly what is different but I don't think there is any "stock" replacement except with JJP parts.

I don't need to change to RBG, just change white to Blue or Red? So if an LED goes out how are these replaced? Comet or others don't sell them?

I haven't seen a non-RGB one, but I would assume/bet that the GI boards used in POTC SE are similar to the RGB boards but only a single LED color chip. According to the manual the control lines for all 4 colors are there and the actual boards themselves are either white or RGB. So it sounds like you just need the RGB replacements, but I'm unsure if there are differences in code or any limitations based on the SE unlock dongle in the game. You could grab one RGB board and test or maybe someone else will comment. I just ordered GI boards for my WOZ RR and they were like $5 a piece.

I think only on a full install, not sure if that can be backed up. LTG would know.

Yes, I think it will keep them if you backup/restore settings though. Which I failed to do.

Yes if you backup settings before doing a full install (which wipes audits), when you restore them it will restore the audit counts.

I have to say....

JJP has awesome customer service.

When my POTC arrived on 5/16, the backbox speaker panel and backglass were just wedged into the backbox. The 2 screws that held the speaker panel weren't installed. I just noticed this morning that I have a few small areas where the paint is missing. I talked w/ Frank at JJP. A new backglass is already on its' way.

Correct. That's why there are so many HUO pins with descriptions like "purchased a year ago but has less than 200 plays", right!

It's less destructive to just use light filter gels to change the colors to what you want. Basically what I do for Iron Maiden, Deadpool, etc with the brackets that hold them all in place.

I've never seen these? Where do you get them?

PinMonk makes them for specific games. I would imagine you could also just use some lighting gels cut and taped in to the place. Might be the ghetto mod but I can't imagine it wouldn't work.

https://pinside.com/pinball/biz/directory/1569-pin-monk

You can get the gels from any theatre supply place (or full-line camera place like Adorama/B&H online). There's no real good way to mount them easily, though, so that's why I ended up making plug and play brackets for specific purposes on specific games. Until I made these, most people just cut them to the rough shape of the insert and jammed the gel in the hole or stapled the gel over the insert hole. The biggest downer is the sheets are pretty big, so if you're buying it for one or two inserts it gets spendy and there's a lot of waste.

Here's an example of the brackets I make (note:the colors are backwards on the bracket shown - I need to re-take this top picture, but it gives you the idea.):
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Such a simple and elegant solution.

Just received my color tree for IMDN. Good stuff.

Wolfmancat said the white GI brightens up play field and I agree RGB would have been great but game plays the same outside the extra bling which I wish I could have but oh we'll. don't have mine yet

I think in the end it's all just toys. The invisiglass is probably the only real game play "improvement" that is in the LE. There aren't even that many GI lights in the game, how much change could it really be.

Yep bought iNVISIGLASS it makes a huge difference. Shaker , maybe , I like them but think it loosens things

It's a fun toy, that's really all. It doesn't REALLY immerse you in the game that much more. I noticed even less so in WOZ. IF the shaker was implemented in more strategic places I think it could play in to the game more. For example, we all know the sinking of the Dauntless should have a big light show and shaker motor. Maybe "rocking of the boat" when you're on the BP, dunno. It's fun but I could very well live without it and not notice so much. Maybe it's because I owed a WOZ without one before owning one with it that I feel it's not that immersive or even a bit weird.

That's somewhat of a fail really. I mean it wouldn't be that difficult to code some shakes into some key places that make sense. Shakers really make the game so much more immersive, IMO, when coded right. The cannon shots/hits/explosions is pretty much a no brainer. Heck, maybe it is shaking and the game is just so figgen heavy, we don't notice it.

Just got my LE on Monday to add to my collection. Loving the game so far and it's kicking my butt lol. Any issue I've found is the fork under the chest never goes down but it still registers shots so I can play normally. I got the alert when I booted it up tonight and ran the test to put it down and up but it just stays in the up position. Anybody have issues with this?

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Check if the forks are loose ( two screws ) from the top of the plunger thing under the playfield. Be sure they go up and down smooth and aren't binding on the slots for them in the playfield.

LTG : )

I think I found the right screws and they're loose and can move up and down. It seems like the metal piece that holds it in the up position isn't working for it go down. I was able to manually put it down started a game hit the locks and it came up but once I locked the ball it tried to go down a couple times but you see it couldn't then it just stopped trying.

Has anybody moved the starmap down. I’ve noticed from my playing position I cannot see the top of the starmap. So the “T” constellation looks like an “I”. I can get used to it. Just curious as it looks like it could be shifter down 10mm.

I got mine into this state once by misadjusting the coil - there are some screws to adjust it up/down.

When it drops the forks, it first lifts them.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-custom-mod-collection-themodcouple/page/2#post-5008404

Just had this idea about how to resolve sling problems and table damage and a new mod to make things even more piratey

Let Yelobird know what you think!

I couldn't agree more. JJP customer service has addressed any issue I have had with both of my games.

POTCLE delivered this morning at 7:30!

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Congrats! You will love it, but your back and arms won't.

My freaking shoulders!

No joke - I’ve got two helpers and a decent dolly to get it up 6 steps after work - wish I wouldn’t of waited on ordering the Cliffys. I guess I’ll have to slather it with Mylar till they arrive.

Errrrr!!! Errrrr!!!! New LE member here reporting for duty

Actually, I just sold my home and got into a temporary one while our new home gets built, which will take a while. Got the urge to sell it (Pirates pin) due to lack of space, but looks like I may be Ok for now. Will debate selling it inside the box, but keeping it for now.

Wanted to unbox it really bad but since I know it’s really heavy and that eventually it will have to be moved into the new home, I think it might be a good idea to leave it inside the box until we move into our new home. Keeping it in the box will make moving or selling it a breeze.

From the looks of it, the machine seems fine (only opened the box to take a look ) but I do feel the urge to unbox it and make sure everything is working properly since I know it will take (if I don’t sell it) at least 8 months for us to move into our new home and for me to actually unbox it. Will JJP still take care of me (hopefully it isn’t necessary) after taking that long to unbox it?

I’m particularly worried about the reported playfield chipping around the sling posts. I wanted to address that right away but looks like I won’t be able to. Will it get worse the longer I take to address it if in fact there is some of that going on? Fingers crossed! Thanks!
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Congratulations, and I'd just open now. 8 months is a long, long time...

Thanks! You say long time to play it or to inspect it?

And no.

The playfield should be perfectly fine if it isn’t being touched.

You really don't have to sweat those Cliffys on day one. There is already mylar in all the wear spots (tortuga hole etc.)

I have somewhere around 2500 plays on mine and it still looks fine. My plan is to add cliffys to hide the wear if it ever shows up.

Set that shit up and play it! It's an incredible game.

Personally, I'd throw on the slot protector and the tortuga hole at least. If you got 'em. Both seem to easily get wear and mylar isn't doing anything (not sure there was any in either location).

Factory Mylar seems to be working for me.

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I dunno, I see wear on your Tortuga hole (heh). The mylar protects the outside of the hole on the flat surface but the inner lip and just over the lip aren't protected. My WOZ holes, 3 year old and 6 year old games, are almost as bad as my POTC hole.

A long time to not play or inspect it.

I guess I don't care about that inner spot which doesn't have art. I will do the cliffys when I need to, to hide damage. Until them I am too busy playing.

Has anyone done anything to the playfield or cabinet to protect the inside of the cabinet where the playfield rubs when you lift it? Basically where sideblades go. I bought some felt sheets from Amazon (going to add a small amount to the underside of the lockbar where it hits the siderails) and was thinking if I put it on the sides of the playfield it might protect the cabinet.

Here is the easiest and final solution to stop playfield wear:

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Nice!

Best advice.

Wear means you love your game and you're getting your money's worth out of it.

Looks like I’m golden!

Number 3 is finally home! Now I have to wait till I get home this evening to work through all the problems.

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“Best” character for focusing on inner loops and hopefully collecting a lot of gold?

Would it just be the character that picks up all the gold with a single press?

Opinions?