(Topic ID: 200141)

JJP Pirates of the Caribbean Official Owners and Fan Club!


By goren1818

1 year ago



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There are 12266 posts in this topic. You are on page 160 of 246.
#7951 4 months ago
Quoted from rs812:

Pinballs.com website says they have a few left
http://pinballs.com/

Someone just posted that they said all the LEs they have left coming are now spoken for. All they have are a few CEs.

#7952 4 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Resale value will fall faster than an LE since that's what everyone wants, but the gameplay is the same on both.
SE is missing: Shaker motor, invisiglass, powder coated armor, star map, basic lit topper, spinning pop bumper caps with figure, external knee-level headphone jack, RGB GI. For only $1000 more the LE is a relative bargain.

And I Believe some of the rock sculptures? Not certain.

#7954 4 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

And I Believe some of the rock sculptures? Not certain.

Oh, right. The rock cliff on the left past The Depths is missing on the SE.

10
#7955 4 months ago

ahoy matey!

LE 143 signing on!

558568F3-059B-43FE-9DFC-F8D90A455FE3 (resized).jpeg

Been waiting for this game for a long time!

It has a tons of problems, more to follow in the tech tread.
Probably the first game made that Monday after a weekend with too much rum.

#7956 4 months ago
Quoted from Axl:

ahoy matey!
LE 143 signing on!
[quoted image]
Been waiting for this game for a long time!
It has a tons of problems, more to follow in the tech tread.
Probably the first game made that Monday after a weekend with too much rum.

Congratulations! You're going to love it.

#7957 4 months ago

I had probably 50 games on the prototype a year ago, and 20+ on location, so I know i will love it

#7958 4 months ago
Quoted from rs812:

Pinballs.com website says they have a few left
http://pinballs.com/

They don't.

No one does that I could find.

#7959 4 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Personally, I'm definitely not using metal washers under the posts. Either I'm going to find some clear PTFE or whatever washers that have a similar diameter, maybe I'll entertain mylar (although this seems problematic due to providing very little resistance against the clamping force of a screw and it will likely pucker up when cranked down even a little). I think a silicone, fiber, rubber, neoprene or even maybe vinyl washer would be way better suited if we're trying to keep a sharp circular edge from indenting into a soft playfield. The again, I don't see why these need to be clamped down so much.

Here's a pic with clear washers. I'm also using a larger clear washer to protect the leading edge of the plastic.

20190328_190325 (resized).jpg

#7960 4 months ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Here's a pic with clear washers. I'm also using a larger clear washer to protect the leading edge of the plastic.
[quoted image]

Looks good and the size looks perfect as well. I would say it's an exact size to my silver washers or incredibly close.
What material is it and where did you get them?

Also, what kind of work/time are we talking to knock this out?

#7961 4 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Looks good and the size looks perfect as well. I would say it's an exact size to my silver washers or incredibly close.
What material is it and where did you get them?
Also, what kind of work/time are we talking to knock this out?

I purchased them from PinballLife but I'm sure you could get them from Marco or even a local hardware store. Takes about 5 minutes to install. I always keep a bunch on hand in various sizes, very useful.
https://www.pinballlife.com/clear-petg-fender-washers.html

#7962 4 months ago

I mentioned in a prior post that for those who have the Mod Couple Cannon mod and are considering installing the Cannon Shield, you'll need to remove and reinstall the Cannon mod so that it clears the shield. Honestly, I never had any problem with balls going under the ship so I'm not sure why I even installed the shield. It's rather overpriced considering it's nothing more than a flimsy piece of plastic. But whatever. Here's a pic. Notice how the "wooden" door no longer touches the side of the ship (mini playfield).

20190423_154710 (resized).jpg
#7963 4 months ago

Really wanting an LE, realizing that's not going to be possible. on the SE, does white GI lighting really make a huge difference? And the 72-light starfield on the back panel? I can live without the powder coat and invisiglass and can add a shaker motor.

#7964 4 months ago
Quoted from arzoo:

I purchased them from PinballLife but I'm sure you could get them from Marco or even a local hardware store. Takes about 5 minutes to install. I always keep a bunch on hand in various sizes, very useful.
https://www.pinballlife.com/clear-petg-fender-washers.html

5 minutes!??

For you maybe! =P

Would probably take me an hour... or 3, but that would be out of complete inexperience and paranoia.

#7965 4 months ago
Quoted from arzoo:

I purchased them from PinballLife but I'm sure you could get them from Marco or even a local hardware store. Takes about 5 minutes to install. I always keep a bunch on hand in various sizes, very useful.
https://www.pinballlife.com/clear-petg-fender-washers.html

I should mention that these washers are most likely punched from a sheet of PETG and therefore may have a very small lip on one side. I would suggest making sure the lip is facing up so as not to dig into the playfield. Or just file down the lip.

#7966 4 months ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Honestly, I never had any problem with balls going under the ship so I'm not sure why I even installed the shield.

It's a thing. I've seen it happen on 3 different machines, more than once per.

My solution was to fill that hole with wire loom so the ball can't settle there as easily.

IMG_0802 (resized).jpeg
#7967 4 months ago
Quoted from Breger1:

Really wanting an LE, realizing that's not going to be possible. on the SE, does white GI lighting really make a huge difference? And the 72-light starfield on the back panel? I can live without the powder coat and invisiglass and can add a shaker motor.

The RGB GI is really nice because it changes colors to create mood modes, for lack of a better phrase. Completely changes the look of the playfield as the lighting changes to all green or all red or all purple or whatever, depending on the mode. But if you can't find an LE, you can't find an LE. At that point a CE is your only option, but it should hold its value given the scarcity of it and the LE.

#7968 4 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

It's a thing. I've seen it happen on 3 different machines, more than once per.
My solution was to fill that hole with wire loom so the ball can't settle there as easily.[quoted image]

Honestly a 3D printed "V" coming from that post by the "M" in map would probably be a better solution. I might try that. I do not like the shield.

#7969 4 months ago
Quoted from Breger1:

Really wanting an LE, realizing that's not going to be possible. on the SE, does white GI lighting really make a huge difference? And the 72-light starfield on the back panel? I can live without the powder coat and invisiglass and can add a shaker motor.

Imo you'll be fine without the RGB GI. As for the starfield, definitely not necessary; when you shoot the Star Map (with no skulls lit), another shot on the playfield will flash white for a second - that's all you need to look for. The starfield is also supposed to give a representation of that shot but honestly, it's not worth trying to figure it out lol! For example, if the P in the pirates lane flashes white, the starfield will kinda sort of draw the letter P.

#7970 4 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

It's a thing. I've seen it happen on 3 different machines, more than once per.
My solution was to fill that hole with wire loom so the ball can't settle there as easily.[quoted image]

Your solution is ideal - not only does it stop the ball from getting stuck, but it also keeps the wires from rubbing as the ship rocks. Very nice!

#7971 4 months ago

Thanks for the suggestions, I’m in on SE WONKA as imo the $2k jump to LE isn’t worth it. But I don’t know if I can get past the GI, if it were an easy bulb swap out, from earlier posts I believe it requires wiring changes. Oh well I’ll wait and see if they do produce again in future or a used comes available. CE out of my range. That’s what I get for being late to the game.

#7972 4 months ago
Quoted from arzoo:

I mentioned in a prior post that for those who have the Mod Couple Cannon mod and are considering installing the Cannon Shield, you'll need to remove and reinstall the Cannon mod so that it clears the shield. Honestly, I never had any problem with balls going under the ship so I'm not sure why I even installed the shield. It's rather overpriced considering it's nothing more than a flimsy piece of plastic. But whatever. Here's a pic. Notice how the "wooden" door no longer touches the side of the ship (mini playfield).
[quoted image]

Why not trim back the shield?

#7973 4 months ago
Quoted from rs812:

Why not trim back the shield?

You beat me to the question. I have the cannon mod in place and a shield on the way. Going to look into this option.

#7974 4 months ago

I found a slightly use LE in NY. $9595.00. Shipping cost kills the deal for me and its unboxed. NYpinball has it.

I'm going Standard Edition and adding shaker and glass. That way I'll have and extra wide body glass.

IMO this is a top 5 pin.

#7975 4 months ago
Quoted from rs812:

Why not trim back the shield?

Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

You beat me to the question. I have the cannon mod in place and a shield on the way. Going to look into this option.

Same here, mine is on it's way as well and I have the cannon mod. While the zaphX's wire loom serves a purpose to stop the ball from getting stuck there, preventing the switch wiring from getting hit by cannon rebounds is desirable as well.

#7976 4 months ago
Quoted from Av8:

I found a slightly use LE in NY. $9595.00. Shipping cost kills the deal for me.

Shipping risk maybe.

But if you want it at 9200 you would probably want it at 9600 and then why not 10k all in with shipping?

Not saying all those prices are the same but they are close enough to be moot.

I paid about 250 to ship mine across the country as a NIB. There is no way like 2 or 3 percent should be. A deal killer. I paid probably 4x that in tax alone.

#7977 4 months ago
Quoted from Av8:

I found a slightly use LE in NY. $9595.00. Shipping cost kills the deal for me.
I'm going Standard Edition and adding shaker and glass. That way I'll have and extra waide body glass.
IMO this is a top 5 pin.

Someone will buy it at that price. In another thread I mentioned that we were considering a pin to sell and that my POTC LE was one of them. I had no less than 10 people message me about buying it. I dare wager someone could get close to $10k for their POTC LE right now.

PS. don't PM me, my wife said to just go ahead and add Wonka as a 6th pin, rather than sell POTC. So we are keeping it. :p

#7978 4 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Someone will buy it at that price. In another thread I mentioned that we were considering a pin to sell and that my POTC LE was one of them. I had no less than 10 people message me about buying it. I dare wager someone could get close to $10k for their POTC LE right now.
PS. don't PM me, my wife said to just go ahead and add Wonka as a 6th pin, rather than sell POTC. So we are keeping it. :p

Is your wife single?

#7979 4 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Is your wife single?

Lol!

#7980 4 months ago
Quoted from rs812:

Why not trim back the shield?

I considered that but decided it was just easier to reposition the cannon. The plastic is very thin and could probably be cut by scoring it multiple times with an x-acto knife.

#7981 4 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

They do cause dimpling and this is with a soft silicone washer. Don’t do it until you’re chipped at which point it doesn’t matter. Raising the posts hasn’t caused an issue for me. I had some sling issues caused by worn out rubber.

Quoted from zaphX:

My personal take - and I’m just a guy here, no special wisdom - is that if you’re doing the stars, adding the washers is a good move to keep from getting new, larger, Star-shaped chips.
Time will tell if I’m right or not.

The washer link you posted weeks ago from Amazon, is what I bought, and they are really, really thick, and I think add too much to the height and pressure on the slings. I'd figure the star posts also displace pressure more directly into the playfield versus the direct vibration of the regular posts.

I'm not really sure what the answer is really.

I did take photos of an older game on route in Ohio last night, and these posts had severe issues.

Here's the screw eating into the BP ramp also...

Playfield plus rotisserie $1250-$1300 plus hours of patience and the knowledge required for a full swap, plus waiting years on that investment while money for another game sits locked up in a playfield that will just sit there, doesn't seem like a good idea compared to $80 in Cliffy's, and just accepting damage will come over time.

20190422_232301 (resized).jpg20190423_001310 (resized).jpg20190423_001328 (resized).jpg
#7982 4 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Is your wife single?

LOL that is the perfect response.

#7983 4 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

The washer link you posted weeks ago from Amazon, is what I bought, and they are really, really thick, and I think add too much to the height and pressure on the slings. I'd figure the star posts also displace pressure more directly into the playfield versus the direct vibration of the regular posts.
I'm not really sure what the answer is really.
I did take photos of an older game on route in Ohio last night, and these posts had severe issues.
Here's the screw eating into the BP ramp also...

Playfield plus rotisserie $1250-$1300 plus hours of patience and the knowledge required for a full swap, plus waiting years on that investment while money for another game sits locked up in a playfield that will just sit there, doesn't seem like a good idea compared to $80 in Cliffy's, and just accepting damage will come over time. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Seeing these constant issues with the posts makes me feel like, with a game this new, JJP should be offering some resolution for owners. I'm not sure how they handled the WOZ playfield wear issues (TNPLH pop and the forest pops) but I had to buy a decal set to cover them (which I haven't installed yet). It seems like, at minimum, providing a star post and washer kit that fits cleanly and still provides the same gameplay and operation. WOZ issues seemed to appear after some time and game play (ball constantly hitting a specific area) yet the post issue seems to stem from the post being too narrow and the playfield being too soft or the tension being too much. Either way this seems like a manufacturing defect and not a wear issue over time.

#7984 4 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Is your wife single?

I also spit out the water I was drinking!!

#7985 4 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

The washer link you posted weeks ago from Amazon, is what I bought, and they are really, really thick, and I think add too much to the height and pressure on the slings. I'd figure the star posts also displace pressure more directly into the playfield versus the direct vibration of the regular posts.
I'm not really sure what the answer is really.

I'm not either. It's just what I did, and I am gruntled with.

#7986 4 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Seeing these constant issues with the posts makes me feel like, with a game this new, JJP should be offering some resolution for owners. I'm not sure how they handled the WOZ playfield wear issues (TNPLH pop and the forest pops) but I had to buy a decal set to cover them (which I haven't installed yet). It seems like, at minimum, providing a star post and washer kit that fits cleanly and still provides the same gameplay and operation. WOZ issues seemed to appear after some time and game play (ball constantly hitting a specific area) yet the post issue seems to stem from the post being too narrow and the playfield being too soft or the tension being too much. Either way this seems like a manufacturing defect and not a wear issue over time.

This game probably had thousands of plays on it. But still...

I've heard the older games didn't have washers on them at all. Mine had small, post size ones. I'll see if I took photos the other night. I figured I was doing preventative work, not possibly creating an issue. Maybe with the later games, the small washers supplied are all that's necessary.

I couldn't find a photo of the tiny washers already installed. Here's photos before I installed anything, and the bluer shot is after. You can see a slight indentation after just a few hours of being installed, and not played. Haven't looked in two days, hopefully those marks maybe relaxed.

20190420_202842 (resized).jpg20190420_202849 (resized).jpg
#7987 4 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Seeing these constant issues with the posts makes me feel like, with a game this new, JJP should be offering some resolution for owners. I'm not sure how they handled the WOZ playfield wear issues (TNPLH pop and the forest pops) but I had to buy a decal set to cover them (which I haven't installed yet). It seems like, at minimum, providing a star post and washer kit that fits cleanly and still provides the same gameplay and operation. WOZ issues seemed to appear after some time and game play (ball constantly hitting a specific area) yet the post issue seems to stem from the post being too narrow and the playfield being too soft or the tension being too much. Either way this seems like a manufacturing defect and not a wear issue over time.

You think its a softer playfield? Looks like the post was loose and moved. Smaller metal washer usually works great. I thought these playfields had special clear.

#7988 4 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Seeing these constant issues with the posts makes me feel like, with a game this new, JJP should be offering some resolution for owners.

I don't think the issue is unique to them. I was suggested the washers by a TNA owner who had a similar issue.

I'm going to play the crap out of this thing so I'm not too worried about what happens. I get that a playfield swap is a major committment - I have not pulled the trigger on the spare myself. If money was no object I'd have it already just to take the wear issue off the table.

#7989 4 months ago
Quoted from Av8:

You think its a softer playfield? Looks like the post was loose and moved. Smaller metal washer usually works great. I thought these playfields had special clear.

I wondered if the clear on the CE is different. I had an SE that dimpled very quickly. The CE I bought has hardly dimpled at all.

#7990 4 months ago
Quoted from rs812:

I wondered if the clear on the CE is different. I had an SE they dimpled very quickly. The CE I bought has hardly dimpled at all.

Mine is a CE and is dimpled and cracked quite a bit.

----- STRIKE THAT! I have an LE

#7991 4 months ago
Quoted from Av8:

You think its a softer playfield? Looks like the post was loose and moved. Smaller metal washer usually works great. I thought these playfields had special clear.

I don't necessarily. I don't really have any definitive knowledge but it seems like either the cause is the narrow size of the posts, softer wood/clear coat, too much torque on the nuts or some combination. Seems like star posts have been used here for years without issue on older games so what has changed with JJP that makes this an issue with the narrow posts?

#7992 4 months ago

Spooky has the same issues with the star posts on TNA

#7993 4 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Mine is a CE and is dimpled and cracked quite a bit.

For some reason I thought u had an LE.

#7994 4 months ago
Quoted from rs812:

For some reason I thought u had an LE.

Shhhitttttt... yes. LE, dur.

#7995 4 months ago

The post appear to be about 5/16” diameter. Thoughts on these washers?

amazon.com link »

#7996 4 months ago
Quoted from rs812:

The post appear to be about 5/16” diameter. Thoughts on these washers?
amazon.com link »

They look to be around 1/32” thick.

#7997 4 months ago

Different clear coat on CE? Wouldn’t that be lucky, but it doesn’t seem likely...does it?

#7998 4 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Resale value will fall faster than an LE since that's what everyone wants, but the gameplay is the same on both.
SE is missing: Shaker motor, invisiglass, powder coated armor, star map, basic lit topper, spinning pop bumper caps with figure, external knee-level headphone jack, rock cliff sculpture over The Depths, RGB GI. For only $1000 more the LE is a relative bargain.

I scored an LE! Im thinking the SE will sell out soon also. Debating buying both and sitting on SE NIB. Top 5 pin IMO. 120 plus modes 20 plus characters and plunder opponents score. Loop shot. This will be my first JJP LE.

Wonka not my style but look forward to playing it.

#7999 4 months ago
Quoted from Av8:

I scored an LE! Im thinking the SE will sell out soon also. Debating buying both and sitting on SE NIB. Top 5 pin IMO. 120 plus modes 20 plus characters and plunder opponents score. Loop shot. This will be my first JJP LE.
Wonka not my style but look forward to playing it.

WOOO... don't horde

#8000 4 months ago
Quoted from Av8:

I scored an LE! Im thinking the SE will sell out soon also. Debating buying both and sitting on SE NIB. Top 5 pin IMO. 120 plus modes 20 plus characters and plunder opponents score. Loop shot. This will be my first JJP LE.
Wonka not my style but look forward to playing it.

Top 5...
Top 3...
Top 2?

Hell...simply the “best” pin.

Incomparably good as someone elegantly mentioned.

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