I would say just check your machine. I put mirrorblades in my POTC and they fit just fine and I can also lift the playfield without any problems. Just saying your mileage may vary so just check your game before ordering blades.

Thank you everybody for the weight estimate; even IF it is only ~320 pounds that is still a lot more than I have done recently

The shipping slip I saw said it weighs 350lbs boxed. It's a heavy game but is lighter than Hobbit, that game has some extra weight to it due to the the large drop target banks and beast mechs.

Posted this in another thread but it's relevant here.

Kaneda originally mentioned yesterday after playing Willy Wonka at the JJP factory that Keith is working on that games code which made me wonder if he's no longer working on Pirates code. However, today Kaneda corrected himself and said that Keith isn't coding Willy Wonka but rather Joe Katz. It's awesome that Joe Katz may be the lead on Willy Wonka (not sure if he's working on it or Kaneda meant he's the lead). Joe has done a ton of great work on JJP games including Hobbit and Pirates.

This aligns with Eric's comments at TPF where he said that Keith is working on the Pirates super wizard mode. So Keith is either the lead on the fall JJP game or more likely Ted Estes is (he was last a lead on Dialed In) and Keith is on the first 2020 JJP pin? Hopefully for us Keith is working on Pirates for a while longer and is given enough time by JJP to finish the code the way he intended before moving onto the next game.

Maybe post that in the Black Knight thread as well.

Lol! That would be bad haha.

What exactly does a Cliffy "set" entail?

Protectors for tortuga hole, map hole and depths kickout. Also now includes 2 protectors for switch where ball drops to outlane. $85
for the set emailed him a couple days ago. Switch protectors not in pic

http://www.passionforpinball.com/WIP/JJP-POTC-SET.JPG

I guess I better get on this then.
I see the Map has a Map-2 as well.

Thanks for clarifying.

Have you done any custom mylar in addition to the Cliffys?

A general PSA:

I had the green and brown wire problem on the Pearl that many had. When I removed and examined it, it wasn't obvious where the problem was, so I resoldered every switch where the wire was. 6 switches, if I recall correctly. Also resoldered another wire at one of the switches. I now have lights and sounds I didn't have before and the cannon is obviously more accessible. My take is that many of the switches were thin on solder. It may be worthwhile to resolder all of the switches when you remove the Pearl.

I always put on the fake mylar around the edges of all Cliffys. It has worked well for me.

Actually that's a really good call. Wish I'd have done that when I had the BP off to solder the green/brown wire. Must say, the solder job under there was amateur at best, as others have mentioned.

Glad you're happy and for your game it worked out.

As much as I love sideart and/or mirror blades on the right game, I think Pirates is probably the wrong game,
at least at this juncture, especially with the need to buy protectors for the blades to even try.

Plus, I wouldn't go with an all encompassing Kracken design. That's only a piece of the game. It would have to correspond and extend each section of playfield, like the SillyOldElf design on Monster Bash.

In absence of such an option, I think of the black sides as the art- the walls of the PoTC ride building at Disney as you ride through- and I'm happy enough leaving well enough alone.

Not always necessary to install protectors when doing mirrors. I installed mine no issue.

Looks nice with mirrors - what game doesn't? I also love the water/kraken side art

Plenty don't benefit. Hobbit and No Good Gofers are prime examples, to name just a couple. It's all about how the machine lays out.

Certainly not jonesing to do so while my game is still getting settled and needing initial servicing.

With all the toys and mechs on the sides in Pirates, I wonder if I'd also feel mirror blades a waste. I'm glad that, to you, hey look nice.

That acknowledged- I can't think of game I haven't scratched them up in, no matter how much care I've shown. I usually go with them only to hide beat up walls on old Bally Williams games, which look way worse.

Anyways, with the black aesthetic throughout, my artistic sense feels this one should be left alone, absent SillyOldElf blades that extend each individual playfield zone as though the original design called for it. Except for the magical starfield, it's black skies on the sea in my PoTC.

Blades that have the same spirit of design as the kind going in on YBR WoZ at the factory or none for me.

Mirrors in Hobbit I thought looked great. Had them in mine.

Same here and black mirrors in Pirates and it looks great.

Played some games yesterday at a local place. Got an air ball from the flippers straight into the pearl underneath. The ball got stuck, then dropped down into the cabinet. I will definitely get the pinball universe protector!

EB1EAA14-39EB-449D-9351-0D8FD328D365 (resized).jpeg8BF90DA9-336A-4B6E-A84A-290F37E57676 (resized).jpeg

If I have understood correctly, the hinge bolt in the POTC is flared and difficult to remove. If anyone has pics on how to do this properly, please share! (I need to carry this downstairs and I am planning on doing it in three pieces: backbox, playfield and cabinet)

I was about to order this protector, but pinball universe does not appear to sell them outside of the EU... does anybody sell these to Canadians / North Americans?

If not I am sure some of us would pay a bit for you to ship one of these to us! (please!)

Interesting part is only one nut was flared and very difficult to remove. The other one was straight and slid in/out nicely......doesn't make sense.

In your situation, it's not an issue. The nut can stay in place, as you use the allen wrench to turn the nut the bolt will back out of the hinge for removal, allowing you to keep the nut in place. Once the bolt is out the hinge is no longer attached to the cabinet

Mezel mods is the distro in us for all things pinball universe.

Turned on the machine today and got an error that said dauntless ship hit switch closed. I touched the ship and it cleared the error instantly. I'd like to believe this is because I'm now so accurate at sinkking the ship it hasn't triggered this switch for too long? Am I being optimistic?

It seems like it's a little optimistic about how many times people can hit that target so the error pops up when there's no problem other than it hasn't been hit in a while. That diagnostic might need to be loosened up in the code.

Let me just let you know where I'm at with the "mods" at this is my 1st game...

The Cliffy's make sense and I need to reach out to him to get them on order.
The adjustment of the Dauntless also seems like a good idea as I definitely want to clear those matrixed switch errors and of course have better alignment.
The Titan rubbers make sense..

And that's about it.

I would like to see what the black mirrors look like though for the art blades. It sounds pretty awesome, but I can also appreciate what cheshirefilms said and either it has them or it doesn't. I should take a second look at WOZ as truthfully I didn't even know what art blades meant in the past.

Again this is my 1ST and ONLY game atm and the complexity from an engineering perspective terrifies me.

Thanks for listening!

May as well check continuity of wires too. You could have a break inside a wire casing you can't see.

LTG : )

The Playfield Protectors also seem like a great idea as well...
https://mezelmods.com/products/pirates-of-the-caribbean-pinball-plastic-protector-set-jjp?variant=18353262035041

Sweet! My google searching here failed. Thank you for the help!

You have to remove a good bit of the playfield parts to install that. Not something I'm up for personally, being fairly new to this. Cliffy's can be challenging enough.

Have you waxed things up so far?

Edit:. You said playfield but linked plastics, did you mean plastic protectors I'm guessing? If so, definitely doable for someone new.

This is the playfield protector.

https://mezelmods.com/collections/pirates-of-the-caribbean-jjp/products/pinball-playfield-protectors-pirates-of-the-caribbean-jjp

I’m guessing so. Idk what I’m talking about I guess.. =\

Thanks for the other link.

The Cliffy’s are difficult? Oh great.. =(

I have done 0 to the table so far. It has under 60 games at this point.

After you play 5 chapters from 1 movie, and then the mini wizard mode, are you blocked from restarting those movie chapters until you've played all 5 movies' wizard modes? It would seem extra difficult to get to the final wizard mode if the randomization picks a movie you've already completed.

Yes

Anyone help ??? Always locating balls

image (resized).jpg

I would love to, but I don't know the first thing about it.
Just trying to chime in to show some love and that you aren't being ignored.

Have you tried changing out the balls with new ones?

Does it eventually find the balls?

They are all switches that either haven't been hit or are not working?

Have you loaded the canon on the pearl and fired it at the dauntless? That's 3 of the switches.

Have you loaded balls in the chest? That 3 others.

The last one is the letter "l" in the world gold for the stand up targets.

While in switch test mode, remove the glass and use the ball to activate all of these switches. If they do not register then we need to look for broken wires or something similar

Are you sure you have all the balls? Remove all balls, count them and drop them in. Then play a game and see how it behaves. Also check if they are magnetized.

Out of curiosity what do you guys have your flippers set at. Chest shot seemed inconsistant, like you had to hit it perfect to get a lock. Pulled assembly and checked screws and 1 was loose but didnt seem like it would affect anything (tightened up). Checked my flipper settings and moved right flipper up a few notches and now it feels way better. Can lock 7 out of 10 instead of 3.

Got the front lighting bracket made for the skull topper so it pulsates with the plexi logo now (used a splitter on the 12v topper lead).

bracket.jpg

jjpotc-topper.gif

Yeah I had the same issue in my write up to add the black mirror blades. Crazy how those pivot bolts are flared out?? First time I even seen that on any game. Like yourself I had some damage to the hole getting them hammered out but nothing major as the blades cover and I filed the flanges Off prior to reassembly. Another case of a 15 minute upgrade turning into a 2 hour project....

During multiballs I always seem to have a ball permanently stuck in the deep which doesn't kick out until after the multiball finishes and the game goes into search. Any reason why balls would get stuck here?

Check and see if you have a post or screw at subway under the depths scoop

Welcome @ home my new friend. I'm very happy that the pinball machine is finally here and I'm already looking forward to the first games and streams with it.

WRKZ7961[1] (resized).jpg

Sure you will enjoy it I still do

Anyone else turn there shaker motor all the way up?

What pitch angle do you have set for your POTC? I see JJP states the bubble at the second line, but I notice that the ball is still rather “floaty”. Thanks

The bubble should only be used to see if your game is laying on its side. Useless. Use a proper inclinometer or one of the free and rather good pinball leveling apps like PinGuy. Levels top to bottom AND left to right as this game requires. A bubble will do very little.

Bubble at the second line. If you put it to the third it may roll faster but the ramps and chest become substantially harder to stick, and it spoils the game IMO.

When possible, can you confirm if your second line is 6.3, 7.2, or 7.5 degrees?

It may be months or years, as I don’t have a digital level . All I can say is, across 4 JJPOTC setups the second line plays great.