Yep, that’s where I was with mine, nothing that could be done to stop the monitor from sagging. That’s why I made those wooden spacers to hold the monitor in place.

Horizontal on the certificate! Was pretty stoked when I got mine. There was a lot of first's that happened since it was my first NIB! Will also be my last!

New owner.
Anyone have an idea?
Somewhere a way to adjust this?
It looks too much.

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Following....got the exact same issue, all my cannon shots hit the back of the Dauntless....

Woo hoo. Another one with the same issue the POTC I play on has.

Absolutely no clue on how to fix. Its been this way since day one. I think I've managed to score a direct hit on the Dauntless ~3 times in hundreds of games.

At this point I've just moved on to lighting the canon arrow shot on the Black Pearl and then do a skill shot plunge to get the multiball qualified instead of messing around with trying to 'miss' the Dauntless 3x times to qualify multiball. Not the most elegant solution but it works.

I found with mine that the Dauntless can move about 1/4" back on its rocking mech. It tends to slide forward due to the playfield slope but you may be able to add washers to keep it in the back position.

Agreed. Plus someone recently posted that you can loosen the screws holding the cannon stainless chute and slightly direct it left before tightening. Also consider while slight, the Playfield and arc of throw is slightly pitched so the ball will hook slightly left on launch. Not much but a little naturally. You definitely need to shim the dauntless though as it tends to drift forward. Also documented in the pictures gallery.

Mine is similar, it doesn't point straight at the hole in the Dauntless.
The ball still manages to make it in the hole ok.
I didn't notice until I read about it on pinside.
I did the re-align the cannon chute adjustment, it helped a little.

Okay, POTC manual shows those two rear Dauntless spacers to be #8-32 5/16” x 1-1/2” m-f. Marco has a #8-32 1/4” x 1-1/4” m-f but no 5/16”. Looking for a 5/16” version of that Marco spacer now so that it is sturdy enough to support the ship and brings the Dauntless 1/4” closer to the backboard....

Same for me.
I added the yellow blocks shown in the photo to level it out.

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Just read the award list the other day. I have some thoughts.

IMHO, the awards weren't THAT far off. A quick run down:

1. PotC should have won Game of the Year, yes. 100%. It's the GOAT pin overall, IMHO. But given the relative number of machines in the wild compared to IM and the later release date in 2018, it's not surprising that Iron Maiden won. IM is a good game. Not as good as PotC, but definitely good.

2. The awards PotC won were well deserved, especially toys and gimmicks. JJP is always excellent in this category. But Pirates was exceptional even for them.

3. Maybe I'm a heretic here for saying this, but I actually agree with DP winning callouts. I have both DP and PotC, and they are both EXCELLENT in callouts. Two of the best callouts in pinball history, IMHO. I give DP a slight edge here, BUT PotC is still overall a better game than DP (again, IMHO) for shots/layout, among other things.

4. In terms of best theme, again... between DP and PotC... very competitive. Two excellent themes. Could go either way with that. They went with DP *shrug* that's okay.

5. I agree with IM getting best artwork. Zombie Yeti stuff is amazing.

6. Disagree with IM getting best music. IMHO, both DP and Pirates were superior in this regard - but admittedly, I'm not an Iron Maiden fan. So your mileage may vary. It's probably hard for a non-music pin to compete with a music pin in... ahem... music when it comes to popular voting.

7. Disagree with IM getting best layout. Pirates is FAR superior in this regard, IMHO. Not that IM was bad - it's not, I played it and liked it (and frankly, IM has a better layout than DP by a hefty margin - layout is not DP's strength). But Pirates is on a whole different level in terms of shots and layout. It's not even a fair comparison.

There were some complaints by folks a little miffed about Pirates, DP, and IM getting the most attention, but they were the best/most popular games of 2018. So we knew that'd probably be the case.

That's it for my $.02

I actually wish I could push my Dauntless back a bit because in the normal forward position the bowsprit touches the back of the Maelstrom diverter coil mech when the ship rocks to the left. Also, in the forward position the lower part of the hull does not seem to line up with the upper deck part, so it looks wrong to me. But unfortunately the canon shot misses if I push the ship back. And fyi, I googled what the pointy part of the bow (prow?) is called - the bowsprit, lol.

So I started asking about this awhile ago. My shots were always hitting to the left of the hole. I tried loosening and the fighting the ship after moving it as much as I could. Still didn’t fix it. I took a thin piece of metal and used 3m tape and stuck it on the left side of the cannon and bent the end out a little so it was making the ball hit the hole every time. I even had to bend the metal back some because the shot was now hitting the other side of the hole. Works perfect now. With @yellowbirds cannon mod, can’t see it at all

I've got what might seem like a daft question.

I'd watched an unboxing video of POTC a few weeks back, and saw some thin gray foam that this one guy placed between the legs and cabinet when he bolted them in. I figured it was just there for packing, but he used it. It was shaped in the form of the top of the leg bracket.

I've never seen those in any other unboxing video of any game prior. Anyone have any info on this...?

Those are felt protectors to go between the legs and cabinet.

Is this a tweak required on all games or does it only affect certain build dates?

I haven't had any issues with ship aiming with the one we got. Built in Feb.

That looks like a much better way to do it! What was the easiest way to get the top off the dauntless?

Oh awesome, thank you! So I'm guessing your game came with them too? Is this a JJP addition or does Stern do them too? I didn't have one with Houdini.

I haven’t seen this needed on any of the 3 I’ve set up.

I think this is a JJP thing. I have two JJP games and both came with them. I believe it’s on all models as well, not just LEs.

With the recent grouping of individuals that said they had issues and the notes solutions did not work I wanted to offer a solution. As with any repair no need if you have no issue and no need to do. It is however fairly straight forward that if the cannon doesn’t line up with the target you need to move it. This method accomplishes that task.

Well, I guess it’s time for my first issue. I’m naming this one Pirategate 2019. zaphX I think I went through all of your fantastic help in this thread and I can’t seem to find the right fix. I tried powering the game off then back on, which is what our tech support at work always recommends for our computers but no success there. Yelobird I checked your site but I couldn’t find the right mod to take care of this. Although, that monkey was giving me some shifty eyes. You better keep an eye on him! LTG I’m assuming I’ll have to call support? Again, thank all of you and everyone one else for making this a great thread. Seriously though, how did this happen??

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I keep getting the ball stuck under the ship next to the Map targets. Coming off the 3rd flipper the ball goes between the metal backguard (1) of the hole to the right of these targets and another piece of metal (2) (which has the ability to move). It then gets stuck as you see in the picture below. Any ideas of how to stop the ball from getting in between these two metal pieces?

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Is that the one-way gate from the Pearl ramp, or the I lane drain? Looks like you’re in for a part replacement from the good folks at JJP. They are very responsive with these kinds of things.

I lane. I occasionally get balls going reverse direction so that most likely happened on one of those.

It’s from a direct shot from 3rd flipper. Goes between the two pieces of metal and then gets stuck

I have one CE left and a standard POTC left if anyone is interested.

Your post on the right behind the bracket is supposed to go through the lane guide AND the right hole on the bracket to hold the lane guide down. You can see the screw tab on the bracket, but no screw in it, which is why the bracket's lifted and allowing balls in.
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How well is jjpotc earning on location?

I have 8 pins in a local Brewery.SW prem, Luci,DP , It does 20% over any of the rest.

Thanks!!!

So I've had this game a month small collection honestly still have the one more game feeling really cant remember last game that I've felt this way about

Call tomorrow, Frank or Steve.

LTG : )

First off thanks for the kind words yes that monkey can be sneaky especially sailing at night. As for the gate, this is fairly common on pinball to be honest. They use a hardened steel wire formed to extreme right angles. If bent just a touch to much they tend to crack at the bends especially if secondary angle alignment is done. Simple replacement (low cost) and I’m sure JJP will get you fixed up quickly.

Well going from fish tails to a full ocean theme will definitely increase your enthusiasm! Lol. Yes Pirates is a rather addictive game no doubt especially when you have that one magical game where every shot seems to be going your way. Then the next game it sends you back to the reality of Davy Jones locker to try again.

Yelobird as I referenced in my post just before yours the JJPOTC factory standoffs are male-female spacers, whereas the ones you reference are female-female. The closest McMaster standoff needed is this one:

https://www.mcmaster.com/91075a457

note that it is a 1/4" diameter standoff instead of 5/16" that is standard from the factory. It should be strong enough as I have yet to find a 8-32 m-f 1-1/4"x5/16" spacer, but I'm still looking.....

You are correct. As finding a male/female is a bit of a challenge and a bit more costly I opted to just use the female/female hex spacer and a standard 8x32 hex bolt in the end. Either will work just need to bring that ship back 1/4 - 3/8” and you’ll be hitting the bullseye every time.

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As we have a running pirate help desk today... lol looking at the numerous posts regarding monitor alignment (that would drive my OCD bonkers) has anyone tried simply loosening the monitor mount screws in brackets (#2 times (4) brackets) in the diagram and pivoting to the correct angle? Seems like all of those universal brackets are slotted for horizontal alignment. Not sure if this will help but hopefully better then wood blocks on this beautiful machine.

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Yep, thought of that as i was trying to figure it out. Unfortunately there is little to no adjustment there as that bracket butts right up to the computer case hardware in the backbox.

Did you try adjusting the #2 brackets that mount the arms themselves in the back also?

Thanks for the heads up on this fix Yelobird.
I can't believe that JJP has not addressed this? I brought this up multiple times to JJP as far back as January 14th and have heard absolutely nothing! This is a big part of the game and needs to be addressed. They will answer you very quickly if a part needs replacing but when it comes to major issues like this, they are silent. I've purchased all four of their games and would really think twice about getting another one in the future.

I understand your point and why you would be upset. In JJP’s defense (not speaking for them) as has been pointed out in this thread this has not exactly been a common to all issue. So coming out with a fix strategy plan is rather difficult as only a few have faced this issue or others to some extent. I will also go on record to say this “fix” recommendation actually came from a JJP member in hopes to help others. They Do listen and want each of these games to play as designed and be enjoyed as the creator imagined. Sometimes it’s just tough to figure out a one size fix for all type solution. That’s why I personally Greatly appreciate the sharing and contributions of this group. It is after all a pinball machine which Does require a bit of service/labor and understandably not everyone has been in the hobby or tech side of the Playfield as long so help is a great thing. As a vested group there is really little we can’t solve honestly. Arghhh!

Last note (promise) A few have PM’d me asking how to remove the Dauntless top ship cover. As shown in the manual ( your best friend!) it is attached to the back of Playfield with 3 screws. Just slide the Playfield all the way forward service position. Good luck.

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Joined the club with a lightly routed LE. Can't wait.

I spent several hours going thru every component, it finally got to the point that I knew the blocks would work best. So I went ahead and made them the most functional and painted them black, so they wouldn't look too out of place when the backglass is removed. Ideally something like them should be used in all JJP backbones IMO.....

Congrats!

Is this odd?....

Yesterday, I was playing a one player game. I just drained ball #2 and accidentally hit the start button. It added a second player with 3 balls. Can't you usually only add players during ball 1 on most games? Maybe I've just never done that before.