Same box for all their games and posted on their site.

I couldn't find shipping box dimensions on their site.

Yeah box size looks the same as their past games. The way these latest games are being packed seem much better with more protection / padding. Also noticed that the legs and leg bolts are attached now to a piece of cardboard on top of the game when you open the box.

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That was me and it was pretty nightmarish. Take lots of detailed photos of the wiring in the backbox to be sure you put it back together correctly. Makes moving the game through narrow spaces a whole lot easier though

What’s the proper fix for the sagging backbox display? I fiddled with mine for a long time and it still sags below the translite about 1/4” exposing the metal frame which doesn’t look good. I’m thinking of propping the display up with something on both sides as a quick fix. Any suggestions? I’m hoping to avoid fabricating parts.

At least 2 people just put in a block of wood under the one corner, not sure about anyone else.

I had to prop the right side of my screen temporarily. I plan to make a more permanent fix - here's one that AUKraut suggested in a previous post:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/108#post-4876871

I recently just noticed the sag in my monitor (right side). Has anyone put in a ticket with JJP, and if so, is there an official fix for this?

Tech question.
I have these switch errors on the Pearl. Doesn’t look good, think I have to remove the pearl. Any first ideas?

Thanks

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Have you tried pushing up on the bottom of the monitor on the sagging side? Sometimes it doesn't "snap" into the bracket properly.

Just adjust the #'s 10 and 12 switches from above. Should be a simple switch blade adjustment (currently closed?) and no need to remove the ship. Ignore #48 (see numerous other posts on this). #79 should be in/near the Dauntless.

Remember that the monitors come out on a swivel mount, and have a bracket on each side they have to mount into in order to support the weight correctly. If it's not fully in one side or the other, that side will sag.

Thanks fellas. I thought I checked the bracket/mount, but I will check again.

Yes, it's snapped in properly and the entire display is sagging about 1/4" vertically in the backbox. It needs to be moved up somehow.

Yes, I saw that and I'm thinking of propping my display on both sides with something similar to fix the issue if there's no other way to move it up vertically. I didn't see any up/down adjustments on the display arm bracket mounting bolts. Maybe I'm missing something

if its not the blades ,broken wire under peal. as for teraget switch 48 thats the boat on left side. i am also having this issue. i removed the top of it for 2 weeks and had no issue. put it back on and 2 days later its back. might be a clearance issue. not worried at this point cause i'm playing the shit out if it. lots of fun.

My monitor was sagging also. I wound up printing a couple blocks on my 3D printer to put between the ends of the monitor and the bottom of the head to even it out. Mine wouldn't stay hooked in the right side latch. It came loose during shipping and scratched the paint on the backglass. JJP sent me a new backglass.

Snapping the monitor in is a bit tricky. I thought mine was defective for about a month until my son and I really fiddled with it. You really have to make sure it doesn't just "click" in, but that it seats all the way back into the groove. Hard to describe, because it is tricky, but take some time and really mess with it before you start stacking blocks.

I could get the monitor into the latch, and get it closed ok.
But with a good tug it would pop back out.
Even when latched in place part of the monitor frame was still visible through the backglass.

Then it wasn't latched in all the way.

I'll look at it again, the next time I have the backglass out.
But it wasn't latched when it came out of the box, thats even with the wooden blocks that prevent the latch from opening in place.
So either JJP didn't get it latched in right, or it managed to come out somehow.

I had to take the head off mine to get it through the door.
There wasn't any soldering involved, just unplugging a bunch of cables in the backbox.
I also had to cut some nylon cable ties.
A few of the connections are inside the metal computer box.
Like others have said, take a bunch of photos, video is even better.
Most things only go back in 1 place, but there are a few that are confusing.
I don't know if the USB plugs need to go in a specific port, but I tried to plug mine back in where they came from.

Looks like the classic green/brown wire under the pearl broken off to me, assuming the switches are stuck open and failing to respond in the test. If they are stuck closed I’d check the leafs for proper gap.

Ignore the two ship related ones as suggested.

You're welcome.

FWIW If I had it to do again, I would have removed the piece from the door jam that stops the door from swinging past "closed".
That would have been less work, and given me the extra 1/4" I needed to get the head through.

I'd recommend having a helper, the head is heavy.

Is the actual cabinet (width) dimensions any greater than B/W super pins?

Same here, my display still sags even when fully latched in. I fiddled with it for a good 30 minutes. Will try some small wood blocks to hold it up for now. Frustrating...

Maybe JJP mounted the right side latch higher on later production games?
Mine was made 01/15/2019.

It's really not that hard to get the ship off and tilt it enough to check/fix these switches if they can't be adjusted from the top side and it's a broken wire or diode causing the error.

31 inches by 31 inches by 57 inches. That would be without the pallet.

LTG : )

Lol, yeah. Thanks! I've got a bunch of cool mods from you guys to install on it. Cliffys just arrived today as well, may install those first thing.

Just had to remove mine for the same issue,broken wire,while your under there check the wires for the EOS they are pretty tight too and can break off

Must be new packaging, my game was delivered a month ago and didn’t have the wrap around the whole game or the legs on top. I’m 0 for 2 on having Jack sign my games, guess I pick bad days to buy lol.

I kinda thought he signed all of these off the line, like newborns.

Has the ship removal video by Butch been released yet?

Cabinet Width are both about the same: ~24.75”

Head is slightly wider: 28 3/4” vs 28 13/16” on POTC

This is compared to TZ

I haven't seen it, but it's not that hard. One screw at the back of the playfield just before the playfield backboard, then a cotter pin removal of the arm behind the backboard. Take the nylon washer there off, too. Then pull the pin forward that the arm was hooked to and move the ship slightly toward the backboard and it's free. Just have to wriggle it past the ramps at the front. 3 minutes, maybe?

When did you order the cliffys? I ordered mine a month ago and didn't get them yet. He didn't respond to an email I sent a couple of days ago.

I think he said he was like 2 months out on orders last time I talked to him. Maybe he's caught up since then, but I doubt it since there's always new machines coming out that need protection.

First I measured the distance to the bottom of the monitor on the left side, then cut a 2x2 to be the same length and stuck it under there on the right side. But later after looking at it more … All I did was loosen the 4 screws that hold the back of the monitor to the black monitor pivot bracket, raised the right side of the monitor as far as I could with the slop in the holes, and tighten them down while in that position. That fixed it for me. I took out the block and it has been fine ever since. I have to do the same with my DI … when it gets my tinkering attention again.

Probably a month ago as well, maybe a bit longer. Sounds like he's been really busy.

Okay, I will bug him for an update. Thanks.

My monitor sags also, the latches hold the monitor in, but not up because they latch on top of the catches. One thing I notice when I tried to fix it last time was the foam that I guess is supposed to keep the backglass from hitting the monitor seem to drag the monitor down when you side the backglass down. I have also tried loosening and adjusting the four screws that hold the monitor to the arm without success.

Thanks. Yes they are stuck open. Also the eos switch left flipper is mentioned. Will remove the ship and resolder.
Thansk for the feedback! Appreciate it.
Peter

I heard if Jack is walking by the line he’ll sign whatever is there. I’ve bought two new JJP LE pins and neither had it. I also guess it’s on the back so you never see it but I suppose it’s kinda cool to have.

I think I will order a playfield protector and put it in, even though the job seems a bit nightmarish. Anyone, who has put one it, what kind of experiences did you have? I have put playfield protector into MM, Houdini and Alien, so I am not a total novice in that regard. How difficult it was to put the JJP POTC protector in?

PU-parts is offering some cannot shield - is it worth to get? https://pu-parts.com/pirates-of-the-caribbean-cannon-shield

Thanks for any info!

Pale Purple is correct about Jack and his game signing.

Just curious as I haven't setup my game yet and checked. Is the LE certificate orientated vertical or horizontal? I'm looking to get an 8x10 picture collage frame that I can put 4 JJP LE certificates in.

Update: nevermind, saw a picture of it!