CE confirmed here ... very excited about this pin!

Email from my distributor confirming I have one.
Deposit made 40 seconds after launch

Line of the day.

Notified this morning - shipping this week!

Shipped yesterday - just those 2 words together sound magical

Unnamed attachment (resized).jpeg

The eagle has landed ... now to get it from the terminal to my house ASAP

GNR here (resized).JPG

It’s in my possession

BCAAE17B-E76C-4BA9-9E33-0040F5AEE317 (resized).jpeg

That's why I asked for that number - machine is for my spouse and it's her birth year!

Distro and ordered in the first minute it was available

Here's a short one ...

With Paradise City

@vitty... any issues connecting the speaker topper? I've got the lights working no problem but no sound from speaker because no signal is fed to it

The center connector that feeds it power and signal (white housing and 4 male pins) does not have a corresponding wire and connector ... at least none that I can find anywhere

Is your connected and working?

Mine was close to this .... 37x38x62

Missing cables makes sense to me too. I checked the owners manual and was able to find the blue cable inside the head that you circled in yellow, but not the other cables to provide either power (the yellow and black connector in the owners manual that Yelobird points out) nor the signal (the black 3.5mm cable shown in the owners manual). The (in the packaging) topper install instructions are right around the worst install instructions I have ever seen. it took me exactly 2x as long to install the topper as it did to move and setup the entire machine. The downloadable manual instructions are much better but they leave off exactly "where" you are supposed to find the speaker bar connection cabling ... I put a call into JJP around 7pm last evening

IMG_0675 (resized).jpg

Thank you sir!

and thank you ...

and thanks!

Very kind words guys ... and that image is about half of the room - full video here!

My blog
https://thepinballloft.com/

Congrats! You will be blown away

Love that game! Thanks for the sale - it's next on the restore list BUT ... GnR time is going to slow down ALL restoration projects. I've never played anything like it.

Just hooked up a SVS SB-12 NSD to GnR. Holy Bass Batman!

https://www.svsound.com/products/sb12-nsd

Congrats and the box looks unmolested and factory fresh - portends great things on the inside

Curious about this also. I replaced the stock reds with some green Titans and it tremendously improved gameplay - I was surprised how bad the stock rubber was. You could get almost no control of the ball with the stock rubber

If anyone tries any other colors - please post images

IMG_0744 (resized).jpg

Here you go - this is simply hard to explain without being here in person. Just wow ...

Prior video was showing errors on YouTube so here is a Vimeo version
FYI the Live and Let Die song begins around 2:20 into the vid

https://vimeo.com/499830126

It really, really REALLY is. I just watched the video and as cool as it looks it is NOTHING like it FEEEELS

Back at you sir! Good folks here and around TN. Love that Fire ... still have it and for it's age an amazing "world under glass" game
Never forget that day - it rained in a "biblical" way

Back to GnR - one thing that I'm not sure that anyone has mentioned is that if you turn on the adult mode - hang on
It's not slightly adult ... it's full on, in your face, "F" bomb-a-minute adult. Just like it should be

Here's a few more pics

IMG_0753 (resized).jpg

IMG_0754 (resized).jpg

Congrats! Beautiful game, beautiful game room too!

Shot a few more images tonight. Still loving the game and exploring more of the songs I'm unfamiliar with. So far not a single one disappoints!

IMG_0770 (resized).jpg
IMG_0757 (resized).jpg
IMG_0774 (resized).jpg
IMG_0758 (resized).jpg
IMG_0773 (resized).jpg

After a dozen games I’m getting the hang of it. Wow do these multiballs have you working those flippers. I didn’t notice it but was expecting some flipper fade. Maybe I missed it because I was having so much FUN!!

AFFA79C0-BE3C-4E55-86E4-41A091DB7DBB (resized).jpeg

Stunning car and congratulations! Love fast cars and that one's a beauty!
Track it and drop a #12 on the side

Any CE owners get their soundbar topper working? If so, how ... (pics would be great!)

Will posting a few more vids. This one is Welcome to the Jungle

And now Night Train

My GnR CE review is up at the Pinball Loft blog for those interested ...

https://thepinballloft.com/2021/01/17/guns-n-roses-ce/

JJP FB Response (resized).PNG

Easy .. I just did it

No - not blinding at all ... but it most certainly DOES impact your ability to see the ball. I'll bet it won't bother you a bit either.

Color strobing and light patterns that the team coded into the game using the RGBW LEDs (which is beautiful to see in person) is amazing, and colorful but is done many times at the expense of white light (especially when red and blue are used during songs) ... so when it is happening it can be difficult (not all the time) to see the ball. There are moments when the game gets very dark - not long moments. 5 seconds maybe? On the other hand, there are many, many times when those LEDs are coded to present a mesmerizing and beautiful light show, whenever that is happening you'll typically have more "colored light" than white light, thus reducing overall playfield illumination.

I don't take this as a negative at all - in fact it's the opposite for me. Just stunning use/coding of all of those individually addressable LEDs!

Appreciate you taking the time to read it.
You will love your game and the LE art is fantastic!

Those look awesome!

Mine had that error brand new right out of the box, BUT the coma lock actually works and works well. Must qualify it first, then drain to get in there (then of course hit all the shots to get out!)
I'll have to check the switch report to see if error is still there

It has functioned maybe a half dozen times for me since

BTW, just set my personal best a few mins ago. Cashed in a "Sweet Child O' Mine" song jackpot of 3.8MM and then beat the robot in "Thirst for Carnage" to cash in another 4+MM

Hands are shaking a bit
IMG_0844 (resized).jpg

Just checked and #79 switch shows no issues at all. Just like you, it did when I first unboxed the machine. Only thing I did was pull the glass move the mech up and down and put the glass back on ... has worked since

Someone had asked for a video of the attract mode showing the new undercab and behind the backbox RGBW controlled lights

Here is a 60 second video that has most of the attract lighting action

Hooked up the newly arrived SVS SB3000 today ... OMG, 800watts RMS and 2,500 peak on tap
Had to use the parametric EQ to remove a bit of high bass "boom" and now it simply just kicks you in the gut - and reproduces nice clean/powerful bass lines from the music. Just love it and though subtle, a step up from the SVS 12" I had there before

I used the Pinnovators quick tap system to tap into the existing sub/cab wiring - took all of 2 minutes

Also got my selection of Titan rubbers today and will test some colors tonight
Still loving this game even more every time I play it - it's amazing!

IMG_0856 (resized).jpg

IMG_0857 (resized).jpg

I thought with everything about this game already over-the-top ... why not!

Seriously though I have 7 or 8 Polks hooked up in the Loft already in service and love them - they are affordable but not cheap and sound good too.
I have most of the Polks "shared" between 2 games using Pinnovators mixers - the mixers work awesome for this application. https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/collections/all/products/pinsmx-passive-subwoofer-mixer

For GnR I wanted a better answer than the Polks - thus the SVS-SB3000, it's the entry level version of the SVS subs that has a mobile phone app to control and set the sub. Has a parametric EQ, Variable low pass filter crossover, output control, naming and saving of settings, etc. I was able to very nicely blend the subs massive output to transition smoothing from the sub to cabinet speakers. I'm running it using the low pass filter set at 65Hz. When I first connected it without the low pass filter set, it sounded boomy as I'm sure that cabinet speaker is reproducing quite a bit of mid-bass and my sub did not need to do the same. Once I turned on the low pass filter and moved the crossover point a bit - it sounded perfect. Kick drums have "gut punch". Bass lines in the songs are clear and tactile. I'm loving it and play my GnR at around "32" volume .. wonder what you all play it at? 32 for me is just under where the game will start to distort as the internal amps run out of steam.

Here's the link the oh-so-simple to install Pinnovators sub taps
https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/collections/all-other-systems-subwoofer-kits/products/pinsub-subwoofer-kit-multi-system-blue

IMG_0851 (resized).jpgIMG_0864 (resized).PNGIMG_0860 (resized).PNGIMG_0861 (resized).PNG

Couple issues and solves to share. First ... was getting my "unfair" share of STDMs on ball launches - manual and otherwise.
Added ONE tiny felt dot and improved STDMs to almost zero. 5 cent and reversible fix
Image below and video of a song with multiple launches and no STDMs
A slow or medium launch will drop the ball to the right flipper
A "fast" launch will hit the felt and pop the ball to the left flipper

Will post a diverter issue in a moment ...

IMG_0876 (resized).jpg

Anyone experience phantom scoring of keyboards? Every 5 or 6 games I'll get (what I think it the keyboards) phantom scoring
I shot this video of it happening with no balls on the PF

I lifted the PF and did not see any user adjustable mechanism for that area - guessing they are electro-magnetic sensors built into the LED boards

After I put the PF back i grabbed a spare ball and while game was in "play" mode I slid the ball back and forth around the keyboard and it made the exact same sound and scored the same as well. I put that ball away and it simply continued as if the ball was there

Anyone see/solve this?

Thanks so much. Exactly what I was looking for. I'll try that tomorrow!

Couldn't wait. I can sleep later. Went up in the Loft and did the calibration as you shared. So far so good!

Was really simple

Really appreciate the help

Exactly - there is already a JJP factory installed noise filter on the game. I was getting noise just from topper sound bar AND, like I said the noise was only audible during boot up and when sitting in attract mode - no way you could hear it in gameplay. So this was a minor issue, and I added a $10 "fix". It might not be that noticeable to others nor worth the $10 to address it

Let us know when you get yours in house and installed - curious to know if it worked for you as well as it did for me!

Glad it worked! I forgot, I was having a stuck ball there from time to time as well

Someone confirm that you can see the slow-mo video? I can play it but it appears "grey" in the forum

Thx

Hugely helpful - thank you! For some reason my Youtube settings had defaulted to "private" should be good now!
Appreciate that assist

Yup - you are correct sir ... I just tested it using the test menu and playing "L" only and "R" only tones on repeat. No question that if you plug the wires into the slots nearest where they originate, the sound bar is then wired opposite of the main backbox speakers ... which is doing some interesting things to the sound stage. Not sure if that wiring was by design or not but I wired mine so the left side of the sound bar now plays the same sounds as the left (main) cabinet speaker below it. This should reinforce the soundstage not diffuse it.

To do this you take the wire that originates from the left side of the cabinet (as you are facing the "plugs" side) and plug that one into the speaker connector on the RIGHT side of the PCB board. Again YMMV

Attached is a picture of how mine is wired now (with the above suggested correction)

IMG_0961 (resized).jpg

You bet! I'm not sure if JJP planned the L/R reversal OR maybe, just missed it in the install instructions but maybe they weren't aware at all. More likely the latter as they would have purchased these (guessing) as a complete component from a third party supplier.

You would have to look for it. How did YOU find it anyway?

Congrats! you're gonna LOVE it. It's such a special game! I just played one of my other "favs" after playing GnR non-stop for more than a week
It was ... let's just say, not as much fun as I remember

Check to see if they included the new wiring kit. You'll be using a "Y" splitter to come off the MPU board and run one of legs of the "Y" back to your blue audio line level input (existing one on the PCB board in your picture. The other leg of the "Y" will go up through the top of the backbox and into the blue audio input jack of the sound bar.

Back to some gameplay! I’m going to add a little bit to the review I did a few days ago on my Pinball blog

If interested, you can see it here

https://thepinballloft.com/

IMG_0770 (resized).jpg
I’ve had a chance to play the game now for almost 2 weeks. Maybe 6 to 8 games a day or so. At this point the initial “Holy Cow” remains but the experience is now deeper and broadened. Here are a few new observations:

It’s probably obvious to others but it wasn’t to me that playing through any of the GnR songs, I mean playing them from the beginning to end takes longer that what many consider to be the average ball time of a pinball game (3 mins). Sweet Child O’ Mine is almost 6 minutes and Paradise City is almost 7! So when you decide that you want to play 2 of the biggest GnR hits … well, you’re signing up for a tough (but fun) road. I more routinely than not, get to the last 15 seconds of a song and drain. If they only wrote sub-three minute tunes, I might slay this game.

On the other side of that coin are the occasions where I get deep into (or finish) a song. There are really some amazing moments deep in those games/songs – for example, the “whistle” in Paradise City or the flashing light sequences near the end of “Better” and when the shaker, the lights and the bass drums kick in all at once at the beginning of Live and Let Die - my gosh (goosebumps). These moments are brought to you due to the incredibly hard work of the team at JJP (Scott Larson asked Eric about this on his latest podcast and Eric said Joe Katz spent up to 80 hours coding Live and Let Die alone – and it was the very first song they coded).

There are other moments as well and these are more personal. These are harder to describe without sounding self-important but I’ll do the best I can. Here goes. When I’m a few minutes into a song and driving the rock meter through the roof by hitting the suggested shots, there are times when it feels like I’m actually “on stage”, actually playing an instrument. Somehow the performance of me playing the game/hitting the shots literally transports me to that place. I can hear the power chords in the background, the driving sound of Duffs bass and the pounding of Frank’s drum kit and somehow, I’m there, “playing” with and part of the band. It’s a very cool feeling and a strange one at the same time. Listen – I have a guitar in the Loft. I’ve taken many lessons. I’m still terrible. I have a Roland E-drum kit too and can barely bang around on it so trust me when I say the ONLY thing I bring to this experience is my pinball ability (and even that is suspect)

Another “new to me” observation is the video work on this machine. It is amazing and a shame that like most of us, I’m nose down in the game when I play and don’t spend much time watching (just an occasional peek for on-screen clues I may need to play the game). The video is really well done and the fantastic concert footage is all synchronized. I’ve taken to watching the screen when others play and have begun to appreciate the multiple terabytes of information that the JJP team processed to create this masterpiece.

Same goes for the sound. I’ve been experiencing the game from just 2 feet away for a couple of weeks and it IS amazing. I know, I know … I’ve added a sub but still, the cabinet and backbox speakers are doing a respectable job of keeping up. I started a song tonight and then purposefully stepped away from the game just to hear it from a distance. Wow. Just WOW. I don’t think I have ever heard something that was not a music playback system sound so darn good. There is no question that this is a “concert in-a-box” and every game I play on it convinces me even more that there is nothing like it in the pinball world today. This truly is a unique game, maybe even a once-in-a-lifetime game.

Too kind. Thank you ... can't help but talk about this game. Love it.

My buddy Scott talks with Eric about GnR

Some interesting stuff that I had not heard about before

https://soundcloud.com/loserkidpinballpodcast/ep-52-4-inches-thickof-concepts-with-eric-meunier

Second this ... it was incredibly easy and also fast. Wow, nice implementation JJP

Shot a few vids tonight and was able to play through an entire song all the way to encore
Welcome to the Jungle - starts around the 1 minute mark

And just for the fun of a little bit of Rocket Queen
YouTube still processing the HD version

EDIT TO THE ORIGINAL POST:
I "flattened" (or took the "spring" out of it) the washer that was originally in the Slash headstock and put it back in
I had ONE more hang up after removing it using the fix described in the original post below. This time it was not that there was too much L/R friction, it was because without the washer there was too much up/down play and that caused the diverter to bind on a single ball. All of those washer produce an "up/down" pressure when installed (they are springy).
I simply grabbed two pairs of pliers and gently (not much presure was needed) straightened the washer.
After re-installing, the up/down slop has been greatly reduce but the low L/R friction (good thing) remains
I left the Duff diverters as is as they seem to function just fine without the washers - remember, I only removed the washers on the lower 2 diverters on the Duff area
ORIGINAL POST FOLLOWS:

IMG_1003 (resized).jpg

ORIGINAL POST:
Not sure if others are experiencing this issue but it has now happened one-too-many times for me.
Balls piling up around the passive diverters on the headstock - has happened (less frequently) on the bass as well
When it happens, the glass needs to come off ... so I dug into it tonight

I tried a few things before settling on the easy answer and it works like a charm - just remove the washers
There are 4 total and I removed 3 of them

1 on the Slash headstock
2 on the Duff bass (the 2 lower ones)
For some reason the upper one the Duff was just perfect - maybe the washer was left off that one

In any case, they are perfect now and play tested about 6 games and no issues - they move VERY freely now
The spring washers installed by JJP are meant (guessing) to keep the diverter level, but not put too much friction on them so they still turn
Well ... they are putting a tad too much pressure on that stainless diverter and it's simply too "sticky", especially on a slow ball

No issues now
Save the washers in a labeled baggie in your coin box in case you ever want to put them back on (they are tiny and I'll bet hard to find)

Use the old electrical tape trick on your 1/4" box end wrench so you don't loose the nut AND WATCH FOR THE WASHER as well. Just take a bit of tape and tape it to your wrench, then place under the Duff bass and hold while unscrewing from top. When adding them back, drop those same nuts into your box end wrench with a bit of tape on the back, sit the washer on top and carefully align underneath the Duff bass.
- Note there is no nut to worry about in Slash's headstock - must be a barrel nut underneath so that one just unscrews from the top
- Duff's bass, on the other hand has 1/4" nuts and washers UNDER the plastic and you'll need to be careful and use the trick I shared above
The washer is there to prevent that nut from digging in to the plastic and also spreads the torque over a wider area

IMG_0970 (resized).jpgIMG_0991 (resized).jpgIMG_0992 (resized).jpgIMG_0998 (resized).JPGIMG_0996 (resized).jpg

Thanks for doing this. Following. I've watched about half and learned a bunch that I didn't know. I'm terrible at rules but your stream delivered them in a simple to understand way - nice work!

This game continues to just blow me away. I keep coming down from the Loft like a little kid to tell my wife the newest details - she thinks I'm nuts

Finally!! So excited for you. Take a few hours off from that insane work schedule and ENJOY it!

Read this page and you might find it's a dongle issue

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/106

Yes sir - easy $10 fix

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-game-6-collector-s-edition-/page/36#post-6091457

I used the one you see in my post but ordered this one at the same time - both work great!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N10AQ76/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00

Have and feel the same ... just unbelievable

Light show continues to amaze ... TFC Multiball

IMG_1057 (resized).jpg

That was me. Link below

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-game-6-collector-s-edition-/page/35#post-6087588

Here's what I used to great effect - literally a 2 minute job and sounds stunning!

https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/products/pinsub-subwoofer-kit-multi-system-blue?_pos=1&_sid=11480051d&_ss=r

Glad it worked!

Testing an external sound setup ... will report results soon
Grabbed an old receiver and a set of Polk monitors

IMG_1145 (resized).jpg

I've been testing an external sound system for a few days now.
First I hooked up a home stereo receiver and a couple of old Polk monitors I had laying around.
The addition to the overall sound was significant - both in sound pressure and clarity. The only negatives were the output level of the line level feed from the game was very low. I had to turn the receiver to max volume to get satisfactory levels of sound. The receiver also did not have tone controls and i knew I would want to be able to dial up or down the bass/treble.

After my test I ordered some Klipsch R41M speakers because I already have the R51Ms and love them - but the downside was that they would need to be stand or wall mounted

In the end I settled on trying to find a way to replace the topper speaker bar, rather than have wall or stand mounted speakers.

I needed to find an amp with tone controls and importantly, a preamp that could lift the anemic line level coming off the game.

I already owned a Fosi class D amp that I use to drive some outdoor speakers here at the ranch - it's 100 watts per channel, it's about the size of 2 packs of cigs and it works really well - so I bought another one

I found a line level preamp on Amazon and ordered that.

The last part was to find speakers.

I considered ordering a nice center channel for the topper but gave up when I realized that the center channels usually have just one connection and one crossover. I was trying to create a stereo sound and utilize both channels of my Fosi amp

I then started looking for center channels that were small enough so I could mount TWO of them on the soundbar frame AND they needed to be efficient to make good use of the 100 watts that the Fosi would provide

I found a great option in the Klipsch Reference Theater Center Channel - it comes as part of an entire Home Theater combo set and you can find them both used and a few new as well. I ordered 2 from Ebay and although they came with none of the original packaging, they were perfect AND a perfect fit

The SPL is now probably 3-5db higher than before, much louder than the stock soundbar, it's cleaner at that level and I can now dial in the right amount of treble (these speakers are not capable of delivering significant bass)

The old soundbar can easily be separated from the lower frame by unscrewing a few screws. Once it's off, you'll find a nice flat mounting surface
To mount the new speakers, I added 2 silicone rubber bumpers to add some downward tilt in order to fire the sound at the player. Then I created some custom mounts from a few scraps of metal. I needed to drill just 4 small holes in the frame so my modification/addition of the speakers is 100% reversible

The amp and preamp sit behind the subwoofer, outside the game on the floor and are fed from the original 3.5mm line cord that originally fed the stock soundbar.

YMMV and remember, I'm also running this with an 800 watt (2,500 watt peak power) SVS sub so the comments I share here include the impact of the sub as well. I did, however, shut the sub off when I first "tuned" the settings on the tiny amp and new sound bar, then turned it on and only made a minor tweak to the treble.

Overall, I'm please with both the appearance and the sound!
IMG_1175 (resized).jpgIMG_1161 (resized).jpgIMG_1163 (resized).jpgIMG_1168 (resized).jpgIMG_1171 (resized).jpgIMG_1174 (resized).jpgIMG_1176 (resized).jpg

Amp
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BQC7GNL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01

Preamp
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CVDN2O0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01

Speakers
https://hifiheaven.net/shop/Klipsch-Reference-Theater-Satellite-Center-Channel-Speaker

Thanks ... and that was a real concern for me as well. It was a challenge to get all 4 things to come together:
High efficiency (90db 1w/1m), nice appearance (nothing ugly or out of place vs stuff around it), good clean sound and a physical "fit" in the original area I had to work with. The Klipsch was the only one that ticked all the boxes!

https://www.klipsch.com/products/reference-theater-pack

Reference-Theater-Pack-Product-16 (resized).jpg

I do, but not everyone would. Getting older now and need a little boost in the treble area. Even without the ability to dial in the tone controls, the ability to "mix" the sound to get more from the backbox (ok topper) than the cabinet speaker is a big win on it's own. With the stock setup, when you wanted more power in the callouts or high end, you had to turn the whole system up or go into the menu and hope the settings for increasing songs vs callouts etc was satisfactory. Now I can independently do that (using the preamp gain)

I also popped a $1,200 SVS sub under there too and you might be hard pressed to justify both of these spends but I look at it this way ... this pin is unbelievable - it really is a concert like experience, these mods to the sound system take it about as close as you can get without adding external monitors (other than the sub) that then must be moved/relocated when you move the machine. I think it's worth it and in the past 30 years I've spent stupid money on other audio equipment that did less to make me happy than this pin and these add-ons have!

That's what I did. The replacement was broken on the opposite end of the one it was replacing! I've got a new one on the way again. JJP is fantastic and very fast to respond and ship the parts. MY advice when installing/handling these strips ... be very, very gentle. Bending the terminated ends, even to facilitate routing the wire bunch under the topper can damage it. When this strip goes out, your right rear backbox strip goes out too as the GnR logo topper strip carries power to it. I tried on both of my "bad" ones to resolder (and I know how to solder) but had no success. Also, understand that these LED are addressable and are coded into the machine so if you cut one out, the game is still looking for it. My guess is it might light up but potentially incorrectly. No matter what just handle it with kid gloves when you install it ... I'm going on strip #3 so ask me how I know!

Adding some info here on SPL levels. With the little amp at max, the preamp at 6.5 and the machine at 30.
No reason to play it any louder. If you move the preamp up or turn the machine volume up it will begin to add distortion and degrade the sound
This is the max settings that still sound clean - and to be honest (I've been to lots of rock concerts) you really wouldn't want it to play louder

I'm getting about 105db sustained and 110db peaks (C weighted 32-20khz) during a song as measured at player ear level with my trusty Radio Shack meter. The yellow line I drew onto the scale shows where the needle spent most of its time during "Out ta Get Me" - it peaked higher at times.
I wish I would have measured the game before the addition of the sub and the custom topper - because I know the game was already capable of very high output as stock from the factory. I'm guessing I'm getting around 6db or so more output than stock (BTW, that is a lot louder as every 3db requires around a doubling of amplifier power to deliver it)

Anyhow, just a bit more info to share on this mod and, of course the normal warning to be careful with anything that can play this loud.
110db for 2 sustained minutes can begin to cause damage to your ears

This machine is a real rock concert in a box - amazing

IMG_1196 (resized).jpg

Spot on ... my CE was the very first pic of a box posted back on Jan 11th and it was serial #13 on so they've built 49.8 CE games per week for past 5 weeks

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-game-6-collector-s-edition-/page/22#post-6066733

7e01cd8eb051742ca8c30fd32fe47434a19bfefc (resized).jpeg

Loves to dress up, loves the Locked 'n Loaded box set I gave her for Valentine's Day and she loves to play this game

IMG_1297 (resized).jpg

IMG_1378 (resized).jpg

IMG_1407 (resized).jpg

Serial #013 arrived 44 days ago

Delivered Jan 11th

IMG_1411 (resized).jpg

Awesome! Glad it worked out - simple and cheap fix

Klipsch Topper Upgrade -
I updated the install process and since my original post, have moved all components to the backbox.
There was a huge reduction in hum and noise, and it really cleans up the look under the game
For anyone interested in this mod, all the detailed instructions and supplies can be found on my blog

https://thepinballloft.com/2021/02/27/killer-klipsch/

IMG_1175 (resized).jpg

Like others, my Amp switch was getting jumped by the ball as it raced down the ramp and hopped over the switch wire. I cut a purple post rubber (about halved it). Then trimmed the corners at 45 degrees. Added a dot of E6000 to stop it from turning over time. Has worked 100% of time so far. Trick is to cut it short enough so it doesn’t protrude so far into the drop hole that it blocks the ball

AF9361BD-30C8-42A8-ABF2-BC2B23CA07B9 (resized).jpeg

FE8B421E-CDD4-4117-9334-A7C6A4533C31 (resized).jpeg

Glad it worked out! I still get them occasionally but "occasionally" is OK!

Absolutely you can do that.

I cut the pallet off and my box still had 2 remaining plastic straps holding the cap and base on. Then used my Escalera to get it up the stairs.
Tipped it over on the "truck this side only" side and snapped the straps and boom!
IMG_0670 (resized).jpgIMG_0675 (resized).jpgIMG_0677 (resized).jpgIMG_0688 (resized).jpg

IMG_0681 (resized).jpg

Anyone have the old code handy? Full install?
Would love to go back as the game is not really playable with 1.16 .... ugh

Fantastic idea and I'll bet it's a big upgrade. One of the key reasons I did the Klipsch upgrade was the missing tone controls. Also your solve, is simple to do for those that don't want to muck around with brackets, etc.

Nice job!

Thanks! Downloading now ...

Sounds like they could add a digital EQ but one of the issues is that there is only one 3.5mm line out on the machine. That EQ would be adjusting both the backbox and soundbar at the same time. Not terrible but I have mine set quite a bit different now and an EQ that was common to the line would not work for me. I'd take the feature in a second though if only in order to EQ the backbox speakers - my soundbar is on it's own amp with tone controls.