Quoted from kermit24:Flipper fade is noticeable when shots become unmakeable. That is not the case with GNR for me.
Trap up frequently with the right flipper that has the larger, hotter coil and you'll feel it in a longer game.
(Topic ID: 278559)
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Quoted from Yelobird:We sincerely hope everyone loves the completely look of this coindoor mod.
I know you're busy, but are you outsourcing your forum posts or just taking some promotion style tips from Japan?
japan-sale (resized).jpg
Quoted from Yelobird:Sorry you lost me on your point or humor? If it’s the word correct sorry Siri likes to write what she thinks is correct.
It was obviously a typo, missing word, edit, or errant correction, but "the completely look of this...mod" cracked me up because it read like a lot of unintentionally humorous misused English word salad slogans you see in Japan.
Maybe Eric/JJP can get the rights cleared to include one of Bill McClintock's fantastic mashups as a secret wizard mode. Here's Paradise City mashed up with Stevie Wonder's Living for the City which he calls "Living for the Paradise City" :
Quoted from fnosm:I can't believe you are trying to talk people into not modding their game.
Put me on that list, too. Playfield protectors suck. Protect the damage-prone areas with a cliffy or the like and then just wax the playfield and enjoy the game. Save that money for a Mod Couple mod that will actually improve the game aesthetics.
Quoted from fnosm:Don't you also sell stuff here?
Why yes, yes I do. Thank you for mentioning that, affording me an unexpected opportunity to plug the Twipy-nominated Tibetan Breeze flipper coil cooling kits, available now for Spike and Spooky, coming very soon for JJP machines.
They're a very different kind of actually useful playfield protector.
Quoted from screaminr:What are the odds . They played a mashup from that guy on my way home from work tonight . I hadn't heard of him until today .
Metallica -Huey Lewis .
Yeah, that's one of his newest, if not his newest. Amazing music mashup with excellent video mash, too.
His Marilyn Manson/Mariah Carey "All I Want for Christmas is the Beautiful People" is really great, too.
Quoted from Jecco74:I have the Tibetan Breeze on Stranger Things and AIQ. Do you have one yet for GnR? I am expecting my CE today. I did have the LE for several months and when I had friends over to play the right flipper would fade terribly after an hour of play. I definitely need this for the CE.
It's being tested right now. jjGnR uses a different flipper coil (a FL-11629, the largest) for the lower right that gets VERY HOT. In a 2hr test, it registered 219.8F, the hottest by far of any coil tested so far. With cooling I was able to get it to 140F-155F, a massive improvement of 65-80F less, but still not where I'd like it to be. The left and upper right coils are 15411s so they're good enough with the cooling system. I need to solve getting the lower right down another 10-20F, so it stays below the threshold for the slightest fade. There's another test this week once Karl DeAngelo gets the updated equipment and another temp gauge (so he can monitor 4 temps at once in real time) I sent. He is live-streaming the testing with the temps on-screen again. It's pretty interesting to watch.
So, short answer, jjGnR will have Tibetan Breeze kits very soon, but not quite yet.
Quoted from ceterumnet:Have you toyed with / thought about using TEC?
Can't really do that because bolting fins, heatsinks, etc to the coil and then liquid cooling that isn't really possible/safe. Same reason putting RC cars heatsinks on the coil is a bad idea. Yeah, the shape is right, but all that's between you and disaster is thin paper and the coating on the coil windings, which gets very soft with heat. This particular game's coils get so much hotter than any other ones so far, it's a challenge, but I think I can get it with just changing out the fan and if that's not yet enough, adding a shroud to do more directed cooling all around the coil. That's what the beta testing is for.
Quoted from Freakyguy666:Do these cooling systems generate any noise? If so, have you measured decibels on a meter?
Super low - that's my obsession. I hate unnecessary noise. I use the same fans as I use in the Stern power supply kit. For two coil cooling fans running together, it's around 16dB total which you can't hear at all with the machine running, and only may be able to hear in a quiet room with no pins in play.
The fans that will be tested on Karl DeAngelo's jjGnR live stream tomorrow are a little louder, but one is about 20% more CFM and the other is 50% more, so I need to see the temps it can hold on that problematic right flipper, especially, and also see what Karl thinks the sound levels are like. On my test bench, the small bump in sound is not bad at all. I don't think it will be a problem.
Quoted from Tonic67:I checked out your site and read the write up on flipper fade. Great info and nice innovation.
Thanks. Glad you found the FAQ informative. It basically gives a clear overview of what flipper fade is and if you have to worry about it with your specific play style. I found myself typing the same things over and over to answer questions about it, so I just made an on-demand FAQ on the product page. 
Quoted from Freakyguy666:I wouldnt expect to hear any of the fans during gameplay but obviously in standby mode is the concern as I absolutely hate the fan noise from the Stern especially.
That said, what is the downside of replacing the GnR right flipper coil entirely with one that doesn’t generate as much heat? I figure there must be some obvious reason so thanks in advance for humoring me with an answer to the question!
You'll lose strength. The FL-11629 is the strongest coil. Eric chose it for a reason, I'm sure, or he would have used the same smaller FL-15411 that's on the left flipper right next to it. Replacing the right coil with a weaker one probably isn't a good option for play - unless the larger one was chosen to power through fade and delay it feeling weak, in which case a 15411 and cooling kit might be a good substitution, but really only Eric can answer that. Otherwise it would take a lot of real-world testing to settle that.
Edit: The Deadpool you bought from me has the same quiet fan in it that I use for the flipper coils, so you've heard how quiet they can be. The 20% and 50% higher CFM fans will only be a bit louder than that, and likely only on one coil - the lower right.
Quoted from drfrightner:Its already started I see a GNR CE up for sale right now for 20k. There is always that initial shock and awe on somethings rare where people just have to have them and will pay any amount. Considering there are MILLIONS and MILLIONS of GNR fans across the World with only 500 of these machines available to feed that massive audience. Considering if you found an album signed by this entire group as we see with the pinball machine would sell for about 3 or 4k alone.
Considering the machine is way beyond anything we've ever seen in pinball, just considering all of those factors what does this game settle on over the long run? Any thoughts?
When we look at POTC CE its now up to 22k, will this game end up lower because there will be more available? I would argue there are fewer POTC CE because no one wanted them at the time. GNR has a rabid fan base and once the games are purchased by a GNR fan, not a pinhead, they will probably NEVER leave those basements until death do they part. So you can argue both ways.
Does GNR head into the stratosphere on value eclipsing POTC CE or does it settle closer to the original $12,500?
I'd love to hear some thoughts. What is the highest price we'll see this machine sell for vs. the average price or the lowest price once they're all GONE!
Hopefully the inevitable $15k jjGnR Super CEs keep a reign on the CE price inflation.
So I haven't heard back from everyone I asked, but I have enough that have checked and replied to say it's pretty certain that JJP made a running change to the lower right flipper coil.
CEs made since sometime last week (all CEs? Not certain yet) are arriving with two FL-15411s for the bottom two flippers instead of the left being a FL-15411 and the right being a FL-11629 like on the first run of LEs. Given the crazy extreme temps we've seen on the right flipper in testing (219.8F peak temp), that's a good thing, in my opinion. It will make it a LOT easier to keep it cool because the 15411s seem to peak out around 180F under heavy use/lots of trapping, and I can hold that to around 120F or less with the fan kit, which is well below the threshold of fade.
Karl's livestream of jjGnR tonight at 7pm PST with the three different new fan setups (Std, 20% more CFM, 50% more CFM) will give some good data about which configuration the jjGnR kits will end up being, but if this running change for the right flipper sticks, it will make my life a lot easier.
Quoted from Eskaybee:It does shake pretty hard at times. The problem with having it on low is you totally miss out the ‘You could be mine’ experience.
So what I'm hearing is there needs to be a per-song shaker setting as well as a general one for when it's not in a song.
Karl is livestreaming GnR with realtime flipper cooling fan temperatures on his channel right now for the next couple hours:
https://www.twitch.tv/iepinball
karl-diverter-hot_2021_01_20 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Vitty:Dual FL-15411's on my CE flippers - serial number is 009. I bet they all went out this way.
Yeah, it's looking like the running change to all 15411s happened after the initial small run of LEs right before the CEs went on the line. It was a good call, IMO.
Quoted from Freakyguy666:Sounds like Eric wasn’t dead-set on this flipper needing max power after all?
My guess *and it's only a guess* is the extreme temps the right flipper with a FL-11629 could generate, especially if trapping was a component of play, wasn't worth the power you got in the beginning. 219.8 is VERY hot for a coil. But FL-15411 that's now on all three main flippers with the Tibetan breeze kit for JJP that's almost done is fine. It dropped temps from 181F uncooled to 110-123F with the fans for the whole almost-3-hour-stream, with most of the temps between 110-115F, well below the threshold for fade.
The crazy thing is that the much smaller left diverter coil (FL-11722, dual wound) beat the 11629 tonight with a 219.9F temp, and all it does is move a diverter. But it's on, holding almost all the time when playing, so even though it's dual wound, it's in "hold" power for probably 60-70% or more of Karl's stream it seemed like. So it doesn't get much time to rest and cool off.
Quoted from Freakyguy666:Well as long as Karl didn’t notice any difficulty making all the shots with the weaker flipper, I guess it makes sense.
Weird design on the diverter but I suppose there’s no such thing as “fade” with a diverter, or is there?
He has an original LE run, so he was using the one with the 11629 on the right flipper (with extra cooling). But the revised fans held temps extremely well with this test tonight, so I think the JJP kit is pretty close to done.
Quoted from Freakyguy666:Did you end up buying GnR, btw?
I tried really hard to get one from that first shipment, but through a bunch of crazy circumstances I came up without one, so I'm resigned to waiting until probably Summer when supply eases up. It's the main reason a JJP kit was delayed, but Karl kept asking when kits would be done because GnR flippers were so noodly on longer games. I asked if he'd want to do the testing as I sent him revisions to try long-distance and he agreed in the interests of getting a kit done. He's been very helpful getting this finished so I can release it and move on to older Stern SAM/Whitestar kits and Bally/Williams kits.
Quoted from RA77:Hi Vic,
I am unable to see streams for some reason
Just wanted to say thanks for your pick up re coil temps
im confused the diverter is cooking ? seems crazy to be on constant hold ?
There has to be a better way
It was explained after the last stream, but I don't know if it was in this thread or the regular owners thread. Karl doesn't post the jjGnR streams because twitch will mute them if it detects GnR music for a DMCA violation, so the only way to see the jjGnR gameplay streams with the temps he does is live.
Yeah, it seems like a two stage diverter with a lock and a small coil to release the lock OR a springloaded shaft and a reversed condition so the coil only has to hold in the opposite case would have been a lot better. But I dunno what the development considerations were. They also have room to make another running line change and drop down to a FL-11753 coil that should run a bit cooler. There's supposed to be some software changes coming to help with the heat, too. Be interesting to see what that consists of.
Quoted from Photopin:With all these jacked up NIB resales of CEs how long will it be before JJP cuts out the middle man and just charges 20k for CEs?
I'm telling you - $15k JJP Super CE release once JJP catches up with LE production. $8k over retail CE resales is $4 million bucks across 500 units. They're gonna want come back and get a piece of that goodwill by moving it to something they sell rather than the resale market.
Limiting the CEs to 500 was a huge mistake, especially when they supposedly only allocated half that to the US. That's FIVE per state. 5. Per. STATE.
Quoted from cooked71:Are we certain only 1/2 went to US? With Australia only getting 15 (and we normally get 40-50 of a Stern LE), I think this time the international allocation was much lower. I think most went to JJP direct and they were only US sales.
If I had to guess id say the international allocation was closer to 100 than 250.
I was just going off what's been bandied about, but GnR is huge in Europe, so I think the split is closer to 50/50 than 80/20.
But whatever the nuts and bolts are, it was nowhere near enough given that this CE had substantial value over the LE with all the physical upgrades. At least double, if not triple and it still would have sold out.
Quoted from Hayfarmer:But at what point do they put it out of reach of the avg customer? Beautiful pin, no doubt.
When they stop buying them, that point will have been reached. As long as there are very in-demand CEs going for $20k and up already, $15k will seem like a deal. Plus the market gets a shot at another art package, so more choice in the aftermarket.
Quoted from PtownPin:I highly doubt JJP would undercut their current CE owners by offering a revised/upgraded CE....I'm sure it would sell, but they would piss off a lot of people
There's a middle ground where JJP could make it work so new owners locked out of CEs are happy and existing CE owners are happy, and I'm sure there's already substantial thought trying to find the package that makes sense for both sides of that scenario.
Quoted from Photopin:They could (should) just blacklist anyone who is caught scalping a NIB immediately after release.
That never works. The carrot is better than a stick.
Find a middle ground that will allow a Super CE to happen. Free upgrade of the SCE extras for CE owners? There's a way to do it, and it wouldn't take much thought to find a place where almost everyone is happy (you cannot please EVERYONE, but you can get almost everyone if you try).
Quoted from PtownPin:I doubt theres a reasonable middle ground. My guess is they'll just keep building LE's until demand stops
I've done TONS of variant products for collectors over the years and I'm telling you, from experience, there is a middle ground where almost everyone is happy and JJP makes more money by filling that massive unmet demand with a Super CE. If they can't figure it out, I'd be happy to lay out some scenarios that will absolutely work.
Quoted from PtownPin:If they really want to fill demand than build more POTC LE and CE's .... I don't see any other CE version happening ...although we can theorize all day long
That's a bigger hill to climb because of depletion of the parts to make it. They have all the common parts for the GnR LEs. It's fairly trivial (relative to PotC) to jump from that to a Super CE.
Quoted from PtownPin:I agree on POTC, but the $ and demand is there. GNR will Never happen....if they were gonna do that they should have done it at launch otherwise it would negatively affect all future CE builds....
Depends on how good the solution is. There are answers that would work fine.
I incidentally still think PotC will be re-run. COVID just messed that up.
Quoted from MT45:Team CE -
I was getting quite of bit of hiss and electrical noise through my (newly connected) sound bar. You could only hear it when the game was not playing (boot up and during attract).
I added a super cheap filter just ahead of the sound bar connection - literally cut out 90% of the noise and took 60 seconds to plug in
amazon.com link »[quoted image]
This has been an ongoing JJP problem since the WoZ days. I have no idea why this isn't just standard.
Quoted from Pinballomatic:Isolators are standard now. WW and GnR and POTC all come with them. He's adding one leading to the topper speakers as well.
If there's an isolator on the output of the sound board on the PC, shouldn't that take care of it for the topper, too? Or is that using an additional board?
Quoted from zaphX:Make 100% sure you have someone with you, ahead of the pin, ready to bitch the balance back toward you if needed.
Seems like a very aggressive move...
Quoted from screaminr:Don't forget to vote in the twipy's and put GNR for game of the year , as it obviously is .
https://twipys.com/2020-twipys-ballot/
Already done. There is no competition. Ditto on the sound/lightshow category.
Quoted from Mogg:Just got home. Turned it on, started and it worked. Recalibration?
A different note; I wish there was a way to flag technical/service questions and answers within a thread so they are easily to read through. I made it through 20 pages last night— not finding what I wanted.
This game is amazing.
I started putting "TECH:" at the beginning of keyposts on the R&M thread, so you can use the sort option on keyposts and it will put all the "TECH:" together.
I would suggest additional flags like "NEWS:" etc be adopted, making keyposts even more useful.
Quoted from bgwilly31:just went through settings cant find recalibration for switches...
Topic index points to this post to tell you how to get there in the menus:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-game-6-collector-s-edition-/page/35#post-6087816
Quoted from zaphX:I always buy Titan rubbers and pinballs for any pin. BTW I got my .75 spring from Marco today and it's perfect, the skill shot actually has range and finesse now.
What was the part number and I'll keypost it.
Quoted from pinballmike150:Thanks Vitty. I followed your advice and ran the matrixed switch test to find that switch #033 Upper Playfield Rubber switch is Active and always responds when I press either flipper (and sometimes the slings and inlays). Anyway, I don't think that switch 033 should be Active. How do I make this switch Inactive? Appreciate your help, btw.
Just gap the leaf switch behind the rubber further apart so the front and back parts will only make contact and register when hit by the ball and pushed together.
Quoted from pinballmike150:That worked! Machine now works perfectly. Of course, I had to get 7 games in, just to be sure, before I could reply to say thank you. Thanks!!
Awesome. Just make sure after you re-gap that you didn't gap too far and the switch still will register when the ball hits it.
Quoted from PtownPin:With all the topper install problems lets hope JJP has made changes for future games....I think they got rid of the guy who wrote all their past manuals (which were great) so apparently it shows.
Yeah, I don't think they appreciated how much Butch brought to the table. His manuals were the best in pinball, bar none. I have no idea why they thought canning him was a good idea. It wasn't.
Quoted from romulusx:Since coma’s not being activated every other game or so could that not extend the error timing?
That's probably a question for @pinball_keefer.
Quoted from Yelobird:Unless you Know specific details, sometimes its not always the Companies decision to let someone go it may be another reason.
I'm just going off what Butch said publicly on a podcast right after it happened. He was called up out of the blue and dumped [paraphrasing], according to him. Seemed very strange given his obvious skillset and value to the company on display with his work on the amazing JJP manuals. But maybe there were interpersonal issues, too. I dunno. He said what he said and that's all we got publicly to my knowledge.
Quoted from Yelobird:No question to me Butch was the MVP. Just saying as every story has 2 sides likely JJP didn't let someone that great go just because. The past.
Whatever the reason, it was a shame because JJP was SO FAR ahead of every other pin manufacturer's manuals because of him. Now they're clearly struggling to keep the level he had them at. The GnR manual, though not finished, is inconsistent and messy in the parts section, especially, compared to prior efforts. I just hope they're looking for someone that can bring it back to what they had, because it was amazing for a pin manufacturer.
Heads up: Karl/iepinball is livestreaming jjGnR with the beta JJP Tibetan Breeze cooling fans now so you can watch the temps rise and fall in real time while he plays until 9pm pst. It's live-only, so no archive posting of the stream AFAIK.
https://www.twitch.tv/iepinball
karl_2021_02_03 (resized).jpgQuoted from Navystan:Well, after 30 or so games, had to some some minor repairs. Like many, my spinning disc sank. The plastic nut came loose and needed tightening. I just hand tightened. See picture. The front edge seems to have larger gap. Is that normal or can the disc be adjusted to have even spacing around the playfield hole?
Second issue. The right flipper gave out and sure enough, the coil stop bracket completely fell off. I guess they forgot to tighten down. Quick fix.
Last issue. I'm hearing a strong coil hum near the flippers, like the hold flipper power. I didn't hear it when I first got the game, but now I'm hearing it go for a few seconds and then finally stop. Any ideas what to check?
Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Tighten everything up on the flipper plate and then tighten the 8 screws holding the plate to the playfield. That hum is usually vibration from something being very slightly loose.
Quoted from Navystan:5. While playing a game, I had what looked like a special mode start up. I think it was called, "Do you want to play?" mode. Very cool. It looked like pin was resetting or rebooting and then it went into this special mode. Anyone else see it?
Yeah, it's a play on the display from the WOPR computer simulation mode from the 1980s movie Wargames.
Wargames movie version:
Wargames-simulation.gif
There's also a fighting-game-like mode:
jjGnR_Fighting_Game.gif
Quoted from Rolls-Royce:Interesting, I wonder if this is the 1st time that JJP does that?... perhaps the same happened with POTC for Johnny Depp, Orlando Bloom, Keira and especially Bill Nighy knowing that he’s Davy Jones.
I doubt any of them were involved with the design of jjPotC like at least some of GnR were with jjGnR.
Quoted from Skyemont:How do I get rid of this Scorbit screen at the top right?
[quoted image]
Duct tape works for everything.
Quoted from zaphX:Update to 1.14 and turn it off:[quoted image]
1.14 isn't listed on their site yet, but if people have to do it the old fashioned way, the link's here:
Full install:
http://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/gnr/GunsNRoses-v01.14.iso
- note: this is available in a "full" install release and
in a "delta" upgrade, which can be installed over v01.13
=== Game Code
* fixed issue in Encore where the shots remaining were not updating properly
* fixed bug within Scorbit integration that could cause the game to stop
sending updates after a game
* added an adjustment to disable the Scorbit QR code connection status popup
=== Core Code
* the Player Menu now displays Bluetooth dongle is missing if it's not plugged
in
Quoted from pinballmike150:My LEDs to the right of the backbox have not had any issues. However, my LEDs on top, and to the left have never worked properly. The issue seems to be the connector. When I run an LED test, there is no light coming from them. If I giggle the connection, I can get the color test to match the LED test color of the rest of the machine. When I then test the next LED color, the LED color for the topper does not change (unless I go giggle the connector again). This last a short time, then the light goes out again.
Does anyone happen to know how I can fix this, or where I can purchase/replace this LED set? Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image]
I'm not sure which end you're giggling, but it's likely just a bad solder connection where the power cable connects at the other end (it's really too thick of a gauge of wire for something like this, JJP overdid it).
If you have a soldering iron:
You can peel back the shrink tubing at the end where the power wires connect and carefully resolder them to the LED strip at the copper contact points (where the arrow is pointing - they're repeated all along the strip every one or two LEDs), making sure the soldered-on wires are not touching each other and shorting. Just be sure you either put on more shrink tubing before you resolder or if you're just touching up, put some electrical tape around the area you peeled back so it doesn't short to the metal backbox.
OR if the copper pads are a mess, you can cut across the NEXT set of copper pads up with scissors, losing a couple leds, but gaining a fresh set of copper pads to solder the wires to.
This way you'll at least be in business until JJP sends you a replacement that works out of the box.
led_strip_cut_point (resized).jpg
JJP flipper coil temp testing is almost done. Should have Wonka and WoZ numbers in before long, once USPS cooperates.
Final revised foam for the JJP Tibetan Breeze kit is approved (posted this in the regular owners thread earlier):
So probably about 7-10 days out before the full order of cut foam arrives to put the JJP kits together and get them in the store.
Quoted from Stags6969:Will the JJP GnR kit be the same regardless of which type lower right flipper you get?
Yes. All the JJP kits will have the upgraded fans so it won't matter which coils you have. If you have the 15411s (which is most JJP except WoZ and some GnR), it will just keep it cooler. In testing all the other JJP so far except GnR, they don't even break 100F when cooled with the higher CFM fans, which is amazing.
Quoted from zaphX:Ed aren't you punishing us enough? You're dominating the board
Oh, does the board allow more than one score per registered player per game? Seems like the best score from each player only makes more sense.
Quoted from Yelobird:I agree on the new switches but must say I am Hoping they can improve with software as they do seem to need calibration way more then I would think is normal. Could just be my game but I find myself doing that calibration more then seems normal.
It seems like they could do an auto-calibration transparently in attract mode or after a game once the balls are cleared. I'm sure pinball_keefer will keep refining the system as it becomes clear what's possible and required to keep them in spec in the real world.
Quoted from fnosm:How do you become aware that it needs calibration?
I haven't calibrated mine yet (got it on Monday) and I am wondering how to know if the switches aren't functioning properly.
If it starts autolaunching any and all balls as soon as they hit the shooter lane, that's a big clue.
Quoted from fnosm:I do notice that the booster mbs start very quickly, I was wondering if this is normal or if my switches need adjustment. Also I have seen that before launching the first ball I can generate and increase my points just with flipping the flippers. Is this a possible new switch issue or most likely a mechanical switch issue?
You can easily find out. Take the glass off, put it in switch mode and smack the playfield firmly with an open palm at various places and see which switches are triggered. If they're mechanical, adjust those. If they're the new style, recalibrate.
Quoted from wcbrandes:whats everyone replacing their bumber and flipper rubber with and what size are the slings? one week and the rubber has had it in most places and yes i turn my to 11
That's only about 8.5US, so plenty of headroom.
Quoted from adrock:# 299 in the house! (Figuratively...)
Seems like they are going in numerical order for those of us that didn’t request a special number?[quoted image]
262 at the end of the serial number which is the number that matters. Looks like a little over halfway done.
Quoted from MT45:Spot on ... my CE was the very first pic of a box posted back on Jan 11th and it was serial #13 on so they've built 49.8 CE games per week for past 5 weeks
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-game-6-collector-s-edition-/page/22#post-6066733
[quoted image]
10 per day is pretty sad. JJP really needs to amp that line up, or expand their smaller second line into a full line or they're going to be building LEs for more than a year, Spooky-style, and they've have no capacity so they'd have to forget about Toy Story and whatever's next until late 2022.
Quoted from Jhislop3:Number 330 has arrived in sunny Orlando!
[quoted image]
But what serial number? That's the number that matters.
Quoted from pinballaddicted:How many CEs do you think JJP has built so far?
As of last week, going by the serial numbers, looks like just over half of them. About 50/wk, which is a terrible pace. It'll take them a year to make all the LEs ordered if they don't get another full-scale line going.
Quoted from pinballaddicted:Thanks!
I was thinking the same. We ordered a LE this week so doing the math I am thinking we are not going to get it for 12 months at least. Rumour is JJP have sold around 4000 LEs and I think JJP are only making 2500 games per year.
Congrats to all the CE owners, game looks amazing.
This is off their main line. No idea if they're using their smaller line for GnR to get that 50/wk number. If they're NOT, they can probably get to 65 or 70/wk. If they ARE already using the small line too, then it's going to be a LOOOOONG year and it doesn't bode well for Toy Story release in 2021.
Quoted from Pinballomatic:Game hasn’t seen it hit in awhile so it flags it to be checked
I wish these diagnostic "warning" thresholds could be adjusted higher or off completely. The Pirates one is annoying for the ship, too.
Quoted from HeavyMetalPoet:I agree. This feature can be turned off in settings though. The only downside is you have to go into the test report to see any errors.
Off is one extreme, but allowing the threshold to be set "high/medium/low/very low/off" would be better than on (but too low) or off only. In most cases the reminder is annoying because the threshold is just too low. I *like* the functionality, I would just like it to be a little more patient before deciding there's a problem.
Quoted from doghouse:Anyone else having a ball trough problem? Machine shoots balls out continuously during multiball. I left a few messages for Stephen Z. starting last Friday, with no call backs. Just filled out a support form on their website, so hopefully someone gets back with me soon.
Recalibrate your sensor switches.
Also, go into switch test mode with a full trough and see if it's detecting the balls in the trough correctly.
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:I’m not great at soldering so it’s not perfect...
What soldering station are you using? Maybe with the right tools you be one step closer to perfection!
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:I think my station is fine, and I can solder a wire to something, my issue I had here is how do i “drop” solder onto a board and make a little blob (sorry for my layman’s terminology!). Was trying to do that on the backside of that trough opto transmitter board (as JJP recommended touching up, but there really wasn’t much of any solder to touch up). Problem is the solder melted onto the tip of the iron, couldn’t get it to stick to the contacts on the board. Is there a trick?
But what model station do you have? The answer to your question involves the quality and controls of your station and the materials you're using.
It boils down to station quality and features, temperature, solder quality, flux (in the solder or external, depending). Hopefully you have at least a weller digital station. Hakko if you want to be snooty.
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:YIHUA 939D+ Digital Soldering Station, 75W Equivalent with Precision Heat Control (392°F to 896°F) and Built-in Transformer. ESD Safe, Lead Free with °C/°F display + 5 Solder Tips, Solder & 3 Extras amazon.com link »
Looks like I got the Amazon special LOL. Which I promise was much better than what I had in my toolkit from years ago!
Digital control is important, so you have that, which is good, even if it's mysteriously-named YIHUA powered. You want to use the fine tips only.
What solder are you using? You want fine electronics (thin gauge), rosin core solder which has the flux built into the center of the solder. Flux is the magic that facilitates the smooth flow/melding of the solder. You can buy it separately, but by using rosin core solder in the first place that's not usually necessary. I use 60-40 rosin core solder because it works better than the awful all tin stuff - just puff little "candle blowing" breaths out as you're soldering to keep the smoke away from your eyes and nose.
Once you have the right solder, the temp is very important. You want to only need the tip on the target for a short period of time. I do most of my soldering at 650F. Some people recommend lower at like 600-615F, but I've found that for me 650F works well and doesn't have me holding the iron on the target too long, which can raise pads or traces and kick off a bad day.
There are a bunch of soldering tip videos on youtube, but this one's pretty good for beginners:
A good soldering station and a good multimeter (Fluke 107 for ~$105, or better, Fluke 117 for ~$200) are the two best things you can buy for a new pinball machine. If you don't have those, forget mods and save up to get those FIRST. If you're going to be in pinball for any length of time, you will need them.
Quoted from cybevenom:That was one very usefull clip Pinmonk. Just recieved my solder/desolderstation. (a ZD-917) Got because my old solder iron just had no control at all and was to old. Thanks for that.
Awesome, glad it was helpful. A good digital soldering station, the right solder, and a good Fluke multimeter are the bedrock of pinball ownership. Once you have those, all you need is practice/experience, and that will come in time because pinball is always breaking something.
Quoted from MT45:Like others, my Amp switch was getting jumped by the ball as it raced down the ramp and hopped over the switch wire. I cut a purple post rubber (about halved it). Then trimmed the corners at 45 degrees. Added a dot of E6000 to stop it from turning over time. Has worked 100% of time so far. Trick is to cut it short enough so it doesn’t protrude so far into the drop hole that it blocks the ball[quoted image][quoted image]
You should be able to put one of those on the bars running perpendicular to the guides for support that are just before the hole at the end. Did this on game of thrones on the metal ramp guides to slow the ball to the throne just enough that it wouldn't hop out of the throne on landing. There's two in a row here, so you could add one, then add another before it if one didn't work. Basically you just have to cut the width to fit in the space, then slice into one side and snap it on the support. You want to let it hang and move as the ball rolls over it, robbing it of momentum, but not stopping it.
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Quoted from Lermods:I would be concerned the ball would get stuck behind the rubber bumper. Guess it hasn’t happened to you. I’ll give it a shot, the plunge is the worst thing about this game. I think any time the shooter switch registers outside of a mb, there should be an automatic ball save.
If that's an issue, maybe shaving the nub so it's angled thin at one end ramping up to the thicker end to guide the ball out instead of a full speed bump would take care of it. An x-acto knife and a little time would make that happen.
Quoted from Lermods:Hmmm...first I've heard of this issue. We ship the lights at 60% brightness generally and I have them on that setting on my game with no noise through the speakers and nobody ever reported an issue like that. I'm not sure what would cause that interference since they plug into the existing stock led strip connector. Maybe the dimmer is flakey? Happy to send you a new dimmer if you think that might be the issue, but you'd have to solder it on.
Appreciate all the positive feedback and support!
Do the upper speakers have the ground loop isolator on it? Some of them shipped without it...
Quoted from wcbrandes:I installed the noise isolator today but I can't seriously tell the difference and I'm into sound big time
It's only supposed to remove external hum and whine interference, not make the sound better.
Quoted from TJG81296:Hi all - I saw a post that you had 7 days to register with JJP. Can anyone speak to this? 7 days from when? What if you bought the machine from someone other than JJP? Thanks in advance!
Tom
I've never registered with JJP until I had an issue that needed warranty support. The serial number is all that really matters.
Quoted from RA77:Is JJP hardware an OS capable of coding / implementing an EQ ?
It uses Linux, so yes.
Here's a Linux-based equalizer program, for example:
https://www.omgubuntu.co.uk/2017/06/install-pulse-effects-ubuntu-ppa
Quoted from adrock:Agree 100%. My main issue was that the soundbar and the back box speakers didn’t sound EQed similarly enough together. Digital EQ or Pinwoofer would adjust both together simultaneously i believe. The idea behind our fixes was that it adjusted them separately to eventually make them more similar and synergistic.
Did you make sure the soundbar speakers weren't plugged in backwards, creating a R/L swap?
Quoted from Rockytop:I've got a bad switch. #47 left ramp made. The part number is 18-003003-00.
I've looked online, and can't find anything matching that number.
Is going through JJP the only way to get that?
Are you sure it's bad? Do you hear it click when you press it slowly with your finger? It seems really unlikely it would die this soon.
It's just a regular B/W type switch. The actuator length and diode placement are the only things unique to it. How long is the switch blade on the one you have there?
This is a 1.5" actuator switch (there are other lengths on Pinball Life, too, but you'll need to add the diode to whichever one you get (either transfer the diode off the one you have, paying attention to the band orientation, or with a new diode):
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-sub-microswitch-with-15-actuator.html
Quoted from Rockytop:Agreed. I don't think it went bad, I think it was just a bad switch from the jump. I just unboxed the game.
That's pretty much what I figured, but thanks for the conformation.
I'm sure I have some switches around with my spare parts I could use.
Yeah, if you have a spare parts bin, you likely have a switch body that works, and in some cases you can use the correct actuator blade on the existing switch by popping it off the body and putting it on a spare parts switch you have that may have the wrong length actuator. Just be sure to put the diode on and get the band orientation right.
Quoted from Rockytop:I thought I'd post about my switch issue in case it could help someone else.
I learned something this morning from Ken at JJP (excellent customer service as always) I told him there wasn't a click on the switch, and that I couldn't even see the button that the arm presses in.
It was a 2 second fix. I just had to loosen the screws on the switch and the button popped right out and it's working great.
I love easy fixes!
D'oh! I *almost* suggested that. Glad you got it worked out!
Quoted from RA77:Im still leaning towards router protocol issues if you home network signal levels are solid. To fix this would require your home router configuration to be changed.
If you are having ongoing problems with WiFi updates I would highly recommend following LTG's advice and stick to the stick
Or just turn off encryption on the router and test with no encryption. If it works, you're using an incompatible encryption for the dongle JJP is using. Someone replaced the dongle with one they bought and it solved the problem.
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:Mine worked. I guess I got lucky.
Or the encryption you're using on your router is compatible. (Or hopefully not, but no encryption enabled on your router's wifi - that will also work...)
Quoted from TJG81296:Didn’t want to wait.
[quoted image][quoted image]
First one's a mini topper. Put the left and right legs on the bottom to stand it up.
Other one is spare sling plastics and keychain fobs.
Last one looks like mylar pieces, some spare rubbers and a flipper bushing spacer.
I know a lot of jjGnR owners are waiting for the JJP Tibetan Breeze 3 flipper cooling kit, so I'm posting here (and in the regular owners thread) to let anyone waiting for one know that they'll go up on Pinmonk.com tomorrow (Sat) and start shipping next week. They'll be added to the Pinside Pinmonk store after that. Everyone will be able to get one that wants one, but there may be a backup at the beginning, even though I've stockpiled brackets for the launch.
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:Wifi. It wasn’t supposed to work but I just gave it a shot and it worked.
Do you have wifi security on? If so, are you using WEP, WPA (AES or TKIP), or WPA2 (AES or TKIP)? If people that have problems put up their wifi encryption and people that do not have problems do the same, it might bring to light a solution that works for everyone. I really feel like it's a wifi encryption compatibility problem.
Quoted from MapleSyrup:I’ve been checking your site DAILY hoping for these to come in... now they’re put of stock?!
Congrats on a quick sell through. Hopefully you’ll be listing more soon. I’d really like a set! The fade is REAL.
Don't panic. I'm just adding all the JJP machines for the kit, so it's turned off (0 stock) until I get that done. It FEELS like this is a jjGnR kit, but it's really for all JJP machines.
Should be live shortly.
Quoted from wcbrandes:just ordered a set for GnR any idea when shipping? Cheers
This coming week.
Quoted from pingod:Sold out already
Don't worry, I'll open up again. I just wanted to control the flow of orders a little so I wasn't buried under a pile and it took a month to get them all out anyway. As soon as I get caught up, I'll open it again - probably in a week or so.
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:Did the previous updates work via Wi-Fi (and is scorbit working)? If so, I’m not sure how the encryption could only affect this update but not those. I’ve got a complex ubiquity system, 2G and 5G (on same Wi-Fi name). Authentication is WPA2 (not sure on AES or TKIP, whatever the default is).
JJP might be changing the wifi to make it work with more situations between the versions and did the opposite? Dunno. I just know that the kind of encryption can make some things not work here on certain crappy cheap wifi dongles.
How long have you had the Ubiquiti setup? I tried it and could not deal with the quirks, especially with apple products. Went to a pair of meshed Ruckus Zoneflex R610 and never looked back. Their support/install requirements are a BS extra money grab, but the Ubiquiti support experience I had wasn't anything to write home about, either.
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:I’ve had it for several years now, 5 or 6 access points. Just installed a UniFi managed router (dream machine pro) and UniFi managed POE switches. I’ve loved the Wi-Fi aspect, hoping the router works out (just installed today actually). The only issue I’ve had with Wi-Fi are there are some older or dumber Wi-Fi devices (my garage door for example) that can’t connect unless I disable all but one access point. I really like the technology. I don’t have any mesh, every WAP has cat5/cat6 to the panel. Never had much luck with the mesh setup. I’m an old IT nerd, so I toy with a lot.
Ruckus ZoneFlex features a self healing mesh network that you can extend wherever you want by adding another unit. Plus the range on each unit is fantastic. No fiddling, it just works. And the amount of control you get can get using the app that gives you the system overview is as granular as you want. It's the bomb dot com, and I don't hand out praise for hardware easily.
And, uh...er, I'm sure it works great with jjGnR. There, back on topic.
Quoted from Indusguys:Yes indeed, but that goes for nearly every pin nowadays.
Thunderbirds says "hold my beer."
Quoted from MT45:Added the screw back along with a fresh dab of blue Loctite
You don't want to get ANY of the blue loctite on the plastic disc as you put the screw in the hole. Blue loctite will weaken or degrade plastics it comes in contact with.
Quoted from MT45:Good reminder - thx ... I was careful dropping it in there
I was mainly adding it for anyone following your lead that may not know.
Quoted from zaphX:Can confirm. Can also confirm that nail polish remover also destroys the plastic.
Don’t ask.
franknfurter.gifQuoted from PtownPin:Just tried updating my GNR via WiFi from 1.16 to 1.19....everything seemed to work fine, but when the game rebooted it was still on 1.16.....
You have to click your heels three times while it's updating. It's a JJP WoZ callback.
Quoted from PtownPin:Apparently...WiFi seemed to download just fine, but the code didn't update....frustrating
If you're on 1.15-1.17 code, you MUST do the update through USB to get on a wi-fi updatable version, according to keith here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/145#post-6191017
Quoted from eharan:I think Keefer said that you need to do it via USB unless you updated to 1.18 already. This fixes an issue with WIFI updates
Jinx!
Quoted from pinball_keefer:The 500 ce count will not be compromised.
SuperCE run confirmed.
Quoted from allsportdvd:So not confirmed then? Why even post that then PinMonk what source do you have?
OMG. I thought it was obviously a joke, but the thirst is real, so people are ready to hear any crumb of more CE news (which isn't there).
Quoted from allsportdvd:Didn't look like a joke to me when you quoted Keefer sorry mate
Comedy becomes very unfunny when you have to explain it, but I quoted Keith saying the CE total of 500 would not be compromised - i.e. a hard no, no more are coming. So then I said "Super CE" (which would not technically be a CE, so therefore would not break his statement) "confirmed."
Quoted from zaphX:Not since Hobbit.
I don’t know why people keep beating this drum that JJP limited/collector’s editions will be re-run.
Wishful thinking from people who missed out!
WoZ YBR edition at $11,500 with the sparkle playfield and armor was technically another special edition. Waiting for the Wicked Witch edition.
Quoted from Jokerman:Ok, so we are 11-12 weeks into the CE run. Any guesses on how far along JJP are volume-wise? I checked in with the UK distributor last week and no news yet on CEs shipping to this part of the world.
According to pinside pics posted, the most recent CE delivered was 320 and it was made at the beginning of Mar, so they're probably well into the 300s, if not the low 400s now on the CEs. They took some breaks in there to make SEs and LEs. They haven't been running CEs solid, but the total output is hovering at around 50/wk.
I couldn't find any LE box pics newer than manufactured in Dec 2020, so they're probably well the 600s by now since they've been on the line again at least once since Dec.
Here's the counts, based on most-recent box pics I made a note of:
SE 179 Manufactured as of Feb 2021
LE 422 Manufactured as of Dec 2020
CE 320 Manufactured as of Mar 2021
Quoted from TaTa:Don't forget mine was produced in early March
Did you post a pic of the box? I've been trying to keep the pics, but I sometimes miss posts if they're text only. What was your serial?
EDIT: I went back and looked it up your text only post and yours was CE 320. Edited my post to reflect yours, which is the latest one reported.
Quoted from Freakyguy666:It would be funnier if you couldn’t actually see Jack doing something like this.
Does Jack even make those decisions anymore? I thought he was more of a figurehead now?
Quoted from Yelobird:Wonka is actually an Amazing game and sold out everywhere for the most part. Very likely they Will rerun that title again. And based on the multitude of want adds for WOZ I would bet that hits the line also.
Wicked Witch Edition or bust. With black and green motif and maybe some flying monkey gargoyles as a topper, it could be very cool.
1 week later
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:I don’t think I recalled it as much before (but that doesn’t mean anything), but in those extended multi ball plays, my right flipper started to feel pretty limp. I guess I need the pinmonk to the rescue.
The right flipper is where you'll feel it first on jjGnR. You can clearly see it on Karl's iepinball streams of jjGnR with the flipper coil temp monitors on screen.
Unfortunately the JJP kits are still on hold for a little longer. I had them ready to release with the 2.0 universal bracket and even opened JJP kit orders briefly, but had a couple R&M version and beta jjGnR brackets break at the junction to the fan area from the standup as well as some fan failures where the leads broke off the fan circuit board right when the GnR kit orders were opened. It wasn't a lot, but it was enough failures that I didn't want to proceed until I could address it. So, I paused the release and redesigned the bracket. The new bracket I've made now is much stronger, but I feel like vibration from the bracket being on the coil stop, taking repeated hits will still be a problem for fan failures and the fix for that will take some time to get right, so I've gone back to a side mount Spike-style (style because it's not exactly the same) bracket for now which will get these jjGnR's cooled and running well now and I can continue working on refining the 2.0 bracket, which may or may not eventually pan out. Once the side-mount bracket is tested this week for fit and function, I'll ship the paused initial jjGnR orders and R&M kit backorders and that should allow me to open for new orders of the Tibetan Breeze kits next week.
Quoted from Hulk7979:Is the opening shot supposed to be different on this game? The plunger seems weak. The game itself is a masterpiece. Unbelievable!
Look at the topic index at the top of any page in this thread. There's a link to the post with the barrel spring you need to change out due to the difference in the skull on the outside of the CEs.
Quoted from Jecco74:My upper playfield flipper is sticking on several times per game. Any ideas why? I have to hit the flipper button several times to get it unstuck. The bottom flipper does not stick when this happens.
Loose/broken coil stop, bad/worn coil sleeve, or flipper bushing gap is too tight.
Karl DeAngelo is streaming GnR with the flipper cooling bracket redesign this morning to make sure it holds temps as well as the other design:
https://www.twitch.tv/iepinball
So far, so good. 116F peak temp, cooled, 1 hour in.
karl-2021-04-03 (resized).jpg
1 week later
Quoted from Pinball-NJA:Seems stuck in this update every time I turn on?
Is there a way to just exit the update and play as is?
I can’t seem to figure out how to extract the file.
I downloaded it, but the utility program seems to be giving me trouble
Are you windows or mac?
Removing the USB drive should allow you to boot into the old version, unless you were doing a wifi update, maybe?
Quoted from Pinball-NJA:Mac user,
It’s stuck in the wifi mode.
Click on the topic index at the top of any page in this thread and click on the one that says "TECH: Mac new version full install instructions"
It has the step-by-step instructions for getting your bootable USB thumb drive configured correctly on a Mac.
If you do all that and your USB still won't boot, try hooking a USB keyboard to the computer in the backbox and going into the motherboard BIOS settings at reboot (hit F2 while booting) and check the boot order. USB MUST be before the hard disk in the list. In at least one case it was not, and that's why a full USB install didn't work.
Quoted from LTG:Not me. Some one posted them.
LTG : )
MAC FULL INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS
<snip>
Well, since you posted it and it seemed to help the Macraelites, I figured that was good enough to make it a tech link for the topic index.
Quoted from Pinball-NJA:This is what I get now
[quoted image]
Did you do this step EXACTLY:
"Click "Erase" button
1. Set the format to "MS-DOS(FAT)"
1a using scheme "Master Boot Record"
1b with name "JJPUSB""
Master Boot Record is important because if you're not using that mode when you format on that step, the USB won't boot in the pinball machine.
Did you check your boot order in the BIOS?
What size and brand USB drive are you using?
Is your USB drive plugged into the USB extension cord or directly in the back of the computer in the backbox?
Quoted from Pinball-NJA:I’m plugging into the cord in the coin box.
The format is MS-DOS
But I don’t see a
1b option for “master bootrecord”
Also,
Do I name the USB “JJPUSB” ?
While it’s being erased?
If you're not setting a master boot record option, you're not making a bootable USB. I didn't make Mac instructions, but people that have followed them EXACTLY have had success. Maybe post a screenshot of the "erase" box so I can see what you're seeing?
Also, did you check to make sure that your USB extension cable is firmly connected to the computer in the backbox on the other end?
Quoted from Pinball-NJA:[quoted image]
That looks right. It says the partition scheme is master boot record and you have the name right. You've formatted it to MSDOS-Fat, too.
Did you open the ISO and copy the files to the root of the USB drive now?
Quoted from Pinball-NJA:I’m gonna delete and download the file again.
Did you make sure the USB extension cable is plugged in tightly at the computer in the head?
Quoted from Pinball-NJA:Yes I did. I pilled the lcd out and made sure all black cables were attached firmly,
I will attempt again tonight.
If re-downloading the iso doesn't help, maybe try a different USB stick? I know the stick size and brand can cause problems sometimes. Probably need to start a keypost of brands/model/sizes that are confirmed to work and which have proven problematic.
Quoted from Pinball-NJA:Crisis adverted, I was able to reconnect to the wifi and give the download another try.
Success.
Thank you folks.
Woohoo!
Quoted from Jecco74:Is there supposed to be a spring here? This is the upper playfield flipper that is sticking on my CE.
[quoted image]
Check the coil stop. The spring looks okay where it's visible.
Revised Tibetan Breeze brackets are done, fitted and temp tested. I'll start slowly rolling them out to the jjGnR Tibetan Breeze kit domestic backorders this coming week. Once domestic are out, I'll do international, then open it up for new orders. Unfortunately with this side-mount Spike-style bracket, I have to make sure the brackets fit and customize the fit for each JJP if required, so this is ONLY for jjGnR at first.
Quoted from LJH:Do you have a waiting list or just watch this thread to order when available
Just keep an eye out. I'll post in the thread when the orders open back up. I'm trying to keep a handle on them until I'm sure everything's kosher with the new design, so I'll probably open again, take some more orders, then close, repeat. Domestic orders from the original set are starting to go out this week.
Quoted from Drenden:you don’t do that. You use unetbootin you do not copy the iso files as it needs to create a boot sector on the usb drive. It won’t boot otherwise with uefi or legacy.
ubootnet in for Mac. It's what's for lunch.
Quoted from Pinchroma:Yes on a mac. Drenden is correct. Know how I know? I wrote the update mechanism.
Use unetbootin, Rufus, balenaetcher, etc. Doesn’t matter mac or pc. The boot sector on the usb stick must be created. The only way copying the files from an iso would work is if there was an existing boot sector from a previous use already there but that inadvisable as operation system versions change.
Might want to tell lloyd. I was just referring his instructions here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-game-6-collector-s-edition-/page/59#post-6199551
Quoted from LTG:Not mine. Someone else made them up and posted on Pinside. I've copied and pasted them on Pinside to try and help MAC users.
LTG : )
We're both playing a dangerous game of telephone with Cricket mobile service inside a building, then.
Quoted from zaphX:Ah sorry buddy. Yeah I really don't want to mess with international, just acting as in import destination for US people as I can send them back out with relatively low pain.
If there are enough Canuks interested, you can send the Canadian to me here in CA if you want and I can relay them up, then Rolls-Royce can distribute. I'm willing if you want to and there's enough interest.
Quoted from zaphX:Thing is, I'm not sure cybevenom wants to make a ton of these, though he has agreed to make 25. Might be a great PinMonk product?
I can easily make them, but I didn't want to step on any toes.
So make them, or relay a Netherlands shipment to our neighbors to the north, either way I'm willing to get them taken care of.
Quoted from cybevenom:works for me. Just put my order of GnR fan arctic cooling fan kit in the next shipment out. hahahah. My machine is getting hotter when summer kicks off.
Knowing the pinmonk stamp will be on there guarantees quality as well. Mine is just a simple homebrew then. I get satisfaction out of the fact that i thought up a good sollution.
I am still shipping out domestic backorders of the redesigned GnR Tibetan Breeze kits, but once I'm sure that it fixes the issues I had with the initial design, sure, I'll send you one. You should receive something for your innovation. I'll pm you for your drawing/measurements.
Quoted from zaphX:There is no longer a list, PinMonk is taking this project on.
Yeah, I'm on it. The plan is to go with 1/8" PETG so it will be durable, and I'm going to initially try having the screw for the post with the circular plastic go through it instead of cutting around it so the part's secured on both ends.
Quoted from NightTrain:I'm not sure I'd go that route. I was going to do this as well. You have to remove that entire left side plastic to get to the nut on the bottom of the plastic. When you remove the nuts on the left side, they screw on the bolts that actually slide into the Hot Rail. Lining those bolts back up inside the Hot Rail, with the holes in the plastic, would be a pain in the ass.
Maybe I'm missing something. Take a look at it and let me know what you think. I just decided to go the route of cutting out a notch for the post. The ball would only ever hit the protector from the one side, so I didn't think it would be necessary to have it secured in two points.
That's what test fittings are for. It *seems* like just removing the two nuts on the bottom end of the plastic should give you room to lift the plastic and get a needlenose plier under to hold the nut and move the post up enough to slide the bracket under. I have no problem with iterating until the best solution is arrived at.
1 week later
Here's the reminder for those that have been patiently waiting:
The jjGnR Tibetan Breeze 3 flipper coil cooling kits will be back in the Pinmonk.com store tomorrow (Friday) at noon PST. If I get too many, I may pause them again, but they should be up for the afternoon, at the very least.
Note that these kits are ONLY for JJP GnR, not for other JJP games. With the redesigned bracket being moved to the side mount like the Spike machines, I have to customize them a bit for each JJP machine. So, for right now, for JJP it's jjGnR only. The others will be added back once I get each kit's fit verified.
2 weeks later
Quoted from NightTrain:Hold off on buying isn't an option, since he already bought the machine.
As far as the populated play field having the same issue, you're right. It would. JJP needs to ditch mirco and find a new manufacturer. Then they need to stand behind these failed products and make the customer whole. If they don't start taking care of customers, this kind of customer service will eventually catch up with them. It always does.
Slash is pretty deep into the whole process. I wonder if he's noticed his personal machine is doing the same thing. I doubt he'd be too happy about that.
Update on the Tibetan Breeze kits, specifically for the CE machines. I tested the bracket redesign on LEs, completely forgetting that coma lock might be an issue. It is.
SE/LE are great, but some of the CE users installing have reported that there's *not quite* enough room for the left flipper bracket and it runs up against the vertical coma lock coil bracket. So I've adjusted the fan cage 8mm and am having it tested now. I should know if this solves the issue by Fri/Sat and I can resume shipping the kits with an updated left flipper fan bracket that will work for the SE/LE/CE. Sorry about the delay!
EDIT 5/21: New bracket for CEs fits great with about 2mm to spare now between the edge of the fan housing and the coma lock bracket (See pic below). I'll be printing these for SE/LE/CE owner kits starting today so one kit will work for all models.
CE-Bracket-1-sml (resized).jpg
Quoted from Antron77:Please let me know when available for CE. Also the other passed off mod of the invisible wall. Thanks!
CE-compatible Tibetan Breeze kits are shipping now, but I'm backordered and catching up with a backlog, so an order today is about a week or maybe a little more from shipping. My goal is to get the orders cleared and back to current within a week. I got hit with a triple whammy of the R&M/GnR Tibetan Breeze redesigns and a FLOOD of mylar ring orders, so everything has been going out slowly.
Quoted from Antron77:Thanks no hurry. Just need to know when I can order, not worried about delayed shipping
I realized I didn't make it clear the R&M and jjGnR kits are on pinmonk.com, not the pinside store. Sorry about that oversight!
Quoted from Dallas_Pin:Highclasspinball ... lots of stones being thrown regarding JJP GnR playfields pooling/cracking. Any response??
You obviously haven't been in a Mirco problem thread. He has nothing but excuses. NEVER takes responsibility for his poor work, including bad art. His "care" meter seems to be stuck at about a 5 or 6/10.
You can occasionally get a reproduction PF swap if yours is really bad, but you have to wade through the piles of BS. I have no idea why JJP has stuck with him after years of making them look bad.
Quoted from Dallas_Pin:I’ve read his poor excuses and egotistical posts ... funny how the wheels are falling off for JJP and Mirco, yet crickets. Next week should be interesting.
As long as JJP has a years worth of backorders and Mirco is still selling playfields to them, the wheels are on the bus. But the shine is definitely coming off the JJP customer experience, that's for sure.
I REALLY HOPE JJP is already looking at Mirco exit strategies to activate sooner rather than later.
Quoted from wackenhut:Everyone who was able to get a GnR CE thought they were sitting on gold, now it is a pile of crap lol...The easy fix is to just sell it to another member at cost. I am sure that is going to happen, NOT. A charge back just means you still want it. Maybe JJP will create a new Super CE with working play fields =)
On the other hand, JJP machines are not really made to play, they should be treated as a work of art. Imagine an operator putting one of these on location. Awful.
We put a jjPotC on location on the route I helped with. It was the top earner the whole time it was out, even at $1.50/4 ball games. Had similar issues to jjGnR, though not as severe. Jack made it right (well, right as he could, considering it was still crap Mirco) by sending a spare playfield. That's the main reason I'm surprised JJP has made a hard turn into "pound sand" for affected jjGnR owners.
Quoted from wackenhut:Someone mentioned they modified the warranty in March 21? If I am wrong, please correct me.
Revision on the new warranty says 3.2021
See attached PDF (it's at the bottom).
JJP Warranty Rev 2021.03.21.pdfQuoted from Wzpin:One more issue - anyone run into a problem where the update will download via WiFi - but when you go to install it either shows no progress or 100 percent in 5 seconds but never finishes? Going from 1.16 to 1.23. I’ve tried to complete this 5 times now.
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WiFi install is borked in 1.15-1.17. You have to do a USB install to get past that, then you can use the WiFi successfully.
1 week later
Quoted from HeyZeusss666:Installed a couple of mods today! After half an hour my flippers would get soggy, now they play perfectly for hours. I am very happy with the fans. Easy plug and play install for all the mods.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Awesome to hear that the fan kit is working well for you! I'm still catching up with backorders on it, but should have everyone covered soon!
1 year later
Quoted from Trojanlaw:Pinmonks fabs work great
Thanks!
Also, I have a new design imminent for release that will finally fit all JJP machines correctly, not just GnR (up until now GnR is all I had kits for because the clearance around some flipper plates on JJP machines is too tight for a proper side mount setup and I didn't want to half-ass it).
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