(Topic ID: 278559)

Gun N' Roses CE - Collector's Edition

By RichieWrench

1 year ago


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  • 3,374 posts
  • 298 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 days ago by andrewket
  • Topic is favorited by 95 Pinsiders

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There are 3,374 posts in this topic. You are on page 51 of 68.
#2501 9 months ago
Quoted from meSz:

When I turn the machine on I am getting Coma Switch Stuck Closed but when I go into Switch Test and put my finger in between the Optos it test fine. What am I missing here?

Had same thing - it will reset once you do a coma lock in a game or take the glass off and force it manually.

#2502 9 months ago

Serial number 044.

Delivered January 20th 2021

#2503 9 months ago

Anyone else having a ball trough problem? Machine shoots balls out continuously during multiball. I left a few messages for Stephen Z. starting last Friday, with no call backs. Just filled out a support form on their website, so hopefully someone gets back with me soon.

#2504 9 months ago
Quoted from doghouse:

Anyone else having a ball trough problem? Machine shoots balls out continuously during multiball. I left a few messages for Stephen Z. starting last Friday, with no call backs. Just filled out a support form on their website, so hopefully someone gets back with me soon.

Recalibrate your sensor switches.

Also, go into switch test mode with a full trough and see if it's detecting the balls in the trough correctly.

#2505 9 months ago
Quoted from doghouse:

Anyone else having a ball trough problem? Machine shoots balls out continuously during multiball. I left a few messages for Stephen Z. starting last Friday, with no call backs. Just filled out a support form on their website, so hopefully someone gets back with me soon.

Yes, having the same issue. Tried reseating harnesses to opto board and main boards but no luck. Filled out support form today too.

#2506 9 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Recalibrate your sensor switches.
Also, go into switch test mode with a full trough and see if it's detecting the balls in the trough correctly.

I did that. No dice.

Quoted from MGM2:

Yes, having the same issue. Tried reseating harnesses to opto board and main boards but no luck. Filled out support form today too.

Yes, Stephen got back to me via email finally. He is sending me out a trough transmitter board and receiver board "just in case."

#2507 9 months ago

This what we tried before contacting JJP, and the message I sent to JJP:

"Multiple balls shooting into trough during multi ball. 
Just keeps shooting balls out continuously. My tech says the game is not seeing position 4 and 5 in trough (they don't register).
 Pulling the plug off with all of the switch wires off the board, and jumping out the column to each of the rows, the switches will pull in on screen. Checked for cold solder— didn’t see anything. 
Checked opto alignment
. Bad trough board he says."

#2508 9 months ago

Mine showed active optos on trough jam (switch #006) and trough #5 (switch #001) with all balls taken out at the trough test. Received a quick response from Ken at JJP too- sending out a set of trough boards also.

pasted_image (resized).jpeg
#2509 9 months ago
Quoted from adrock:

This worked great thanks

Quoted from Wariodolby:

Same for me ,worked great
This is the one I got from Amazon
amazon.com link »

Awesome! Glad it worked out - simple and cheap fix

#2510 9 months ago
Quoted from rodcom:

Had same thing - it will reset once you do a coma lock in a game or take the glass off and force it manually.

I’m having same issue.

#2511 9 months ago
Quoted from Pinballocd:

I’m having same issue.

Unfortunately, every CE will have this issue until they fix the software.

#2512 9 months ago
Quoted from twenty84:

Unfortunately, every CE will have this issue until they fix the software.

So dumb question I did a search and could not find the answer. How exactly does the coma lock work. Have about 20-30 game on it and have not figured this out.

#2513 9 months ago
Quoted from Pinballocd:

So dumb question I did a search and could not find the answer. How exactly does the coma lock work. Have about 20-30 game on it and have not figured this out.

Hit the coma target to qualify it - an easy way is nail the left orbit and hold the right flipper up.

Then drain in the left outlane during pre-song modes. Ball will lock in the coma lock and you get a ball save mode followed by a multiball if successful.

-2
#2514 9 months ago

I'm really scratching my head on the coma ball lock. Adding a mech that basically does nothing to improve, or even change, gameplay that becomes another potential problem area for no reason? Really glad the LE doesn't have this.

#2515 9 months ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

I'm really scratching my head on the coma ball lock. Adding a mech that basically does nothing to improve, or even change, gameplay that becomes another potential problem area for no reason? Really glad the LE doesn't have this.

It is kind of cool that you can see the balls physically locked and there is also some lighting and art in that area. It is true that the virtual lock in the LE and SE provides the same game play. The problem isn't with the mech itself but with the software which gives an error if the lock isn't used in a fairly small number of games. It should only do this if a ball should actually be locked but wasn't registered by the opto. The software should know when the lock is active and in this condition a ball draining down the left out lane but not appearing in the trough is a sign the opto isn't working and should trigger a warning only in that situation which would indicate a real malfunction.

#2516 9 months ago
Quoted from twenty84:

It is kind of cool that you can see the balls physically locked and there is also some lighting and art in that area. It is true that the virtual lock in the LE and SE provides the same game play. The problem isn't with the mech itself but with the software which gives an error if the lock isn't used in a fairly small number of games. It should only do this if a ball should actually be locked but wasn't registered by the opto. The software should know when the lock is active and in this condition a ball draining down the left out lane but not appearing in the trough is a sign the opto isn't working and should trigger a warning only in that situation which would indicate a real malfunction.

So next software release to fix it? Highly likely?

#2517 9 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Hit the coma target to qualify it - an easy way is nail the left orbit and hold the right flipper up.
Then drain in the left outlane during pre-song modes. Ball will lock in the coma lock and you get a ball save mode followed by a multiball if successful.

Thanks for this!

#2518 9 months ago
Quoted from doghouse:

Anyone else having a ball trough problem? Machine shoots balls out continuously during multiball. I left a few messages for Stephen Z. starting last Friday, with no call backs. Just filled out a support form on their website, so hopefully someone gets back with me soon.

In the trough test, is the ball jam opto green? I just had the exact issue in my Wonka and actually pulled my GnR trough opto transmitter to confirm the issue (and it worked). I had to touch up the solder (on the ball jam opto, the one at the far top side nearest the shooter lane) on the back of the trough opto transmitter board. I’m not great at soldering so it’s not perfect but JJ will send a new board.

#2519 9 months ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

I’m not great at soldering so it’s not perfect...

What soldering station are you using? Maybe with the right tools you be one step closer to perfection!

#2520 9 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

What soldering station are you using? Maybe with the right tools you be one step closer to perfection!

I think my station is fine, and I can solder a wire to something, my issue I had here is how do i “drop” solder onto a board and make a little blob (sorry for my layman’s terminology!). Was trying to do that on the backside of that trough opto transmitter board (as JJP recommended touching up, but there really wasn’t much of any solder to touch up). Problem is the solder melted onto the tip of the iron, couldn’t get it to stick to the contacts on the board. Is there a trick?

#2521 9 months ago

I received notice my G&R CE will be here in 1-3 weeks.
Thats a big window of time, can't wait though

#2522 9 months ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

I think my station is fine, and I can solder a wire to something, my issue I had here is how do i “drop” solder onto a board and make a little blob (sorry for my layman’s terminology!). Was trying to do that on the backside of that trough opto transmitter board (as JJP recommended touching up, but there really wasn’t much of any solder to touch up). Problem is the solder melted onto the tip of the iron, couldn’t get it to stick to the contacts on the board. Is there a trick?

But what model station do you have? The answer to your question involves the quality and controls of your station and the materials you're using.

It boils down to station quality and features, temperature, solder quality, flux (in the solder or external, depending). Hopefully you have at least a weller digital station. Hakko if you want to be snooty.

#2523 9 months ago

Also, hasn't the grade of solder used these day changed to suit UL ? requirements, lead free ?
Apologies I am unsure of legislation requirements of the States or EU. AU seems not so strict . ?
Personally I prefer the ol 60/40 ( less prone to cracking ) leaded solder, however life in electronics is more complicated these days with so many regulations
As I understand mixing solder types is not ideal.

16
#2524 9 months ago

Picked up my CE yesterday afternoon! To my surprise I got #263 same number as my EHOH! I love GnR and this game is a masterpiece that a legendary band like GnR deserves. Every other band pin pales in comparison to this beauty!

324614BE-F05F-40AD-96A7-93EC26697855 (resized).jpeg5BF2A3A2-EEE6-41B1-9C72-8BCFA10877CA (resized).jpegCA88E6DA-9D15-4804-BA0F-BF96986478B7 (resized).jpeg

#2525 9 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

But what model station do you have? The answer to your question involves the quality and controls of your station and the materials you're using.
It boils down to station quality and features, temperature, solder quality, flux (in the solder or external, depending). Hopefully you have at least a weller digital station. Hakko if you want to be snooty.

YIHUA 939D+ Digital Soldering Station, 75W Equivalent with Precision Heat Control (392°F to 896°F) and Built-in Transformer. ESD Safe, Lead Free with °C/°F display + 5 Solder Tips, Solder & 3 Extras amazon.com link »

Looks like I got the Amazon special LOL. Which I promise was much better than what I had in my toolkit from years ago!

#2526 9 months ago

Looks really nice next to MET

#2527 9 months ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

Picked up my CE yesterday afternoon! To my surprise I got #263 same number as my EHOH! I love GnR and this game is a masterpiece that a legendary band like GnR deserves. Every other band pin pales in comparison to this beauty!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Excellent Indusguys, you will have an excellent weekend ....

Btw, what a coincidence the number with your Elvira’s huh!

#2528 9 months ago

Klipsch Topper Upgrade -
I updated the install process and since my original post, have moved all components to the backbox.
There was a huge reduction in hum and noise, and it really cleans up the look under the game
For anyone interested in this mod, all the detailed instructions and supplies can be found on my blog

https://thepinballloft.com/2021/02/27/killer-klipsch/

IMG_1175 (resized).jpg
#2529 9 months ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

YIHUA 939D+ Digital Soldering Station, 75W Equivalent with Precision Heat Control (392°F to 896°F) and Built-in Transformer. ESD Safe, Lead Free with °C/°F display + 5 Solder Tips, Solder & 3 Extras amazon.com link »
Looks like I got the Amazon special LOL. Which I promise was much better than what I had in my toolkit from years ago!

Digital control is important, so you have that, which is good, even if it's mysteriously-named YIHUA powered. You want to use the fine tips only.

What solder are you using? You want fine electronics (thin gauge), rosin core solder which has the flux built into the center of the solder. Flux is the magic that facilitates the smooth flow/melding of the solder. You can buy it separately, but by using rosin core solder in the first place that's not usually necessary. I use 60-40 rosin core solder because it works better than the awful all tin stuff - just puff little "candle blowing" breaths out as you're soldering to keep the smoke away from your eyes and nose.

Once you have the right solder, the temp is very important. You want to only need the tip on the target for a short period of time. I do most of my soldering at 650F. Some people recommend lower at like 600-615F, but I've found that for me 650F works well and doesn't have me holding the iron on the target too long, which can raise pads or traces and kick off a bad day.

There are a bunch of soldering tip videos on youtube, but this one's pretty good for beginners:

A good soldering station and a good multimeter (Fluke 107 for ~$105, or better, Fluke 117 for ~$200) are the two best things you can buy for a new pinball machine. If you don't have those, forget mods and save up to get those FIRST. If you're going to be in pinball for any length of time, you will need them.

#2530 9 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Digital control is important, so you have that, which is good, even if it's mysteriously-named YIHUA powered. You want to use the fine tips only.
What solder are you using? You want fine electronics (thin gauge), rosin core solder which has the flux built into the center of the solder. Flux is the magic that facilitates the smooth flow/melding of the solder. You can buy it separately, but by using rosin core solder in the first place that's not usually necessary. I use 60-40 rosin core solder because it works better than the awful all tin stuff - just puff little "candle blowing" breaths out as you're soldering to keep the smoke away from your eyes and nose.
Once you have the right solder, the temp is very important. You want to only need the tip on the target for a short period of time. I do most of my soldering at 650F. Some people recommend lower at like 600-615F, but I've found that for me 650F works well and doesn't have me holding the iron on the target too long, which can raise pads or traces and kick off a bad day.
There are a bunch of soldering tip videos on youtube, but this one's pretty good for beginners:
A good soldering station and a good multimeter (Fluke 107, or better 117) are the two best things you can buy for a new pinball machine. If you don't have those, forget mods and save up to get those FIRST. If you're going to be in pinball for any length of time, you will need them.

That was one very usefull clip Pinmonk. Just recieved my solder/desolderstation. (a ZD-917) Got because my old solder iron just had no control at all and was to old. Thanks for that.

#2531 9 months ago
Quoted from cybevenom:

That was one very usefull clip Pinmonk. Just recieved my solder/desolderstation. (a ZD-917) Got because my old solder iron just had no control at all and was to old. Thanks for that.

Awesome, glad it was helpful. A good digital soldering station, the right solder, and a good Fluke multimeter are the bedrock of pinball ownership. Once you have those, all you need is practice/experience, and that will come in time because pinball is always breaking something.

#2533 9 months ago
Quoted from MGM2:

Mine showed active optos on trough jam (switch #006) and trough #5 (switch #001) with all balls taken out at the trough test. Received a quick response from Ken at JJP too- sending out a set of trough boards also. [quoted image]

Same issue with mine upon arrival. Ken was super helpful and sent out 2 new trough boards that day. It was the inner one in the end that needed replacement.

#2534 9 months ago

Like others, my Amp switch was getting jumped by the ball as it raced down the ramp and hopped over the switch wire. I cut a purple post rubber (about halved it). Then trimmed the corners at 45 degrees. Added a dot of E6000 to stop it from turning over time. Has worked 100% of time so far. Trick is to cut it short enough so it doesn’t protrude so far into the drop hole that it blocks the ball

AF9361BD-30C8-42A8-ABF2-BC2B23CA07B9 (resized).jpegFE8B421E-CDD4-4117-9334-A7C6A4533C31 (resized).jpeg
#2535 9 months ago
Quoted from MT45:

Like others, my Amp switch was getting jumped by the ball as it raced down the ramp and hopped over the switch wire. I cut a purple post rubber (about halved it). Then trimmed the corners at 45 degrees. Added a dot of E6000 to stop it from turning over time. Has worked 100% of time so far. Trick is to cut it short enough so it doesn’t protrude so far into the drop hole that it blocks the ball[quoted image][quoted image]

You should be able to put one of those on the bars running perpendicular to the guides for support that are just before the hole at the end. Did this on game of thrones on the metal ramp guides to slow the ball to the throne just enough that it wouldn't hop out of the throne on landing. There's two in a row here, so you could add one, then add another before it if one didn't work. Basically you just have to cut the width to fit in the space, then slice into one side and snap it on the support. You want to let it hang and move as the ball rolls over it, robbing it of momentum, but not stopping it.

#2536 9 months ago
Quoted from MT45:

Couple issues and solves to share. First ... was getting my "unfair" share of STDMs on ball launches - manual and otherwise.
Added ONE tiny felt dot and improved STDMs to almost zero. 5 cent and reversible fix
Image below and video of a song with multiple launches and no STDMs
A slow or medium launch will drop the ball to the right flipper
A "fast" launch will hit the felt and pop the ball to the left flipper
Will post a diverter issue in a moment ...
[quoted image]

I just want to bump this (so to speak). I was getting tons of SDTM plunges, even after using the washer trick and checking all angles. I saw this post and tried the felt button, but I didn’t have one that thin and it would block the ball. So I tried one of these small hemispheric furniture dots. Perfect! Now it meanders slowly to either flipper and hardly ever goes SDTM. Try it out if you’re in the same boat! Thanks MT45
41F2DC56-0B1F-40D0-B60F-BA37C2A1E816 (resized).jpeg494D396A-74F0-476F-8E98-B2918603E42E (resized).jpeg

#2537 9 months ago
Quoted from adrock:

I just want to bump this (so to speak). I was getting tons of SDTM plunges, even after using the washer trick and checking all angles. I saw this post and tried the felt button, but I didn’t have one that thin and it would block the ball. So I tried one of these small hemispheric furniture dots. Perfect! Now it meanders slowly to either flipper and hardly ever goes SDTM. Try it out if you’re in the same boat! Thanks mt45
[quoted image][quoted image]

Glad it worked out! I still get them occasionally but "occasionally" is OK!

#2538 9 months ago
Quoted from adrock:I just want to bump this (so to speak). I was getting tons of SDTM plunges, even after using the washer trick and checking all angles. I saw this post and tried the felt button, but I didn’t have one that thin and it would block the ball. So I tried one of these small hemispheric furniture dots. Perfect! Now it meanders slowly to either flipper and hardly ever goes SDTM. Try it out if you’re in the same boat! Thanks mt45
[quoted image][quoted image]

Also works really good for noisy kitchen cabinet doors!

#2539 9 months ago
Quoted from adrock:

I just want to bump this (so to speak). I was getting tons of SDTM plunges, even after using the washer trick and checking all angles. I saw this post and tried the felt button, but I didn’t have one that thin and it would block the ball. So I tried one of these small hemispheric furniture dots. Perfect! Now it meanders slowly to either flipper and hardly ever goes SDTM. Try it out if you’re in the same boat! Thanks mt45
[quoted image][quoted image]

I would be concerned the ball would get stuck behind the rubber bumper. Guess it hasn’t happened to you. I’ll give it a shot, the plunge is the worst thing about this game. I think any time the shooter switch registers outside of a mb, there should be an automatic ball save.

#2540 9 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I would be concerned the ball would get stuck behind the rubber bumper. Guess it hasn’t happened to you. I’ll give it a shot, the plunge is the worst thing about this game. I think any time the shooter switch registers outside of a mb, there should be an automatic ball save.

I have gotten it stuck behind the bumper exactly twice in maybe 100 plunges. Nothing a quick tilt warning can’t fix.

By comparison, before the mod, I would have a SDTM plunge about 40% of the time.

I’ll take a 2% nudge over 40% frustration!

TBH, once I made that modification, I don’t hate the plunge like I used to.

#2541 9 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I would be concerned the ball would get stuck behind the rubber bumper. Guess it hasn’t happened to you. I’ll give it a shot, the plunge is the worst thing about this game. I think any time the shooter switch registers outside of a mb, there should be an automatic ball save.

If that's an issue, maybe shaving the nub so it's angled thin at one end ramping up to the thicker end to guide the ball out instead of a full speed bump would take care of it. An x-acto knife and a little time would make that happen.

#2542 9 months ago

Has anyone done anything to improve the back box lighting? For such a beautiful back glass its really poorly lite

#2543 9 months ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Has anyone done anything to improve the back box lighting? For such a beautiful back glass its really poorly lite

Lermods sells a kit for JJP. I went with warm white instead of Brite white or RGB. I don't want to drown out the colours with the RGB and didn't want it to be too bright with the bright white leds. Just wanted to bring some soft lighting to show the artwork

#2544 9 months ago
Quoted from TaTa:

Lermods sells a kit for JJP. I went with warm white

Thanks ... is everything included in the package? Do I need a splitter?

#2545 9 months ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Thanks ... is everything included in the package? Do I need a splitter?

I have not opened it up yet due to waiting for the game to arrive. But I'm sure it's a complete package. You can always go to his site and email him to be for sure

#2546 9 months ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Thanks ... is everything included in the package? Do I need a splitter?

The light kit has all you need. I have it on my GNRCE.
They sell hundreds if not thousands of these. Lermods is active on Pinside and will answer any questions you have.
They are great to work with, sell a good product and offer excellent customer service.
Buy with confidence.

#2547 9 months ago
Quoted from fnosm:

The light kit has all you need. I have it on my GNRCE.
They sell hundreds if not thousands of these. Lermods is active on Pinside and will answer any questions you have.
They are great to work with, sell a good product and offer excellent customer service.
Buy with confidence.

Great thanks...did you purchase the warm white as well?

#2548 9 months ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Great thanks...did you purchase the warm white as well?

I went with the cool white. I think it looks great. I think Warm would also look great. Also the color changing option is probably bound to have a setting that you enjoy.

The light kit comes with a brightness adjuster. Unless the lights are 100% bright they cause an annoying whine through the speakers.
I am happy with the lights full bright so not an issue for me. But I mention this cause people should know.

#2549 9 months ago
Quoted from fnosm:

I went with the cool white. I think it looks great. I think Warm would also look great. Also the color changing option is probably bound to have a setting that you enjoy.
The light kit comes with a brightness adjuster. Unless the lights are 100% bright they cause an annoying whine through the speakers.
I am happy with the lights full bright so not an issue for me. But I mention this cause people should know.

ok I appreciate the information....I just ordered the kit

#2550 9 months ago
Quoted from fnosm:

I went with the cool white. I think it looks great. I think Warm would also look great. Also the color changing option is probably bound to have a setting that you enjoy.
The light kit comes with a brightness adjuster. Unless the lights are 100% bright they cause an annoying whine through the speakers.
I am happy with the lights full bright so not an issue for me. But I mention this cause people should know.

Hmmm...first I've heard of this issue. We ship the lights at 60% brightness generally and I have them on that setting on my game with no noise through the speakers and nobody ever reported an issue like that. I'm not sure what would cause that interference since they plug into the existing stock led strip connector. Maybe the dimmer is flakey? Happy to send you a new dimmer if you think that might be the issue, but you'd have to solder it on.

Appreciate all the positive feedback and support!

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