Dialed In
Jersey Jack, 2017If you got one of the early Dialed Ins, your bill acceptor power lead is not marked 12v, so you may not realize JJP has made a change away from 115v/120v bill acceptors with this pin. It was driving me crazy until I finally called and was told why I couldn't get a 115v acceptor to work. They recommend using a Mars AE2454 12v upstacker.
Well, that's really strange. And annoying to any operators wanting to put the game out on location.
As far as I know, all (or most, at least..) vids, redemption, use 110v models, so operators have multiple spare units sitting around. (Hell, I'm NOT an operator anymore, and I still have about 5 of them waiting for games..!)
But now, I can't use any of my spares. Have to go out and get a new one.
It's NOT MDB, so there's that, at least.
And I'm going to assume that the coin door wasn't changed, so which means a any of the 23xx-28xx series will work, as long as you have a compact bezel for an upstacker (xx[1, 4, 5, maybe D]x). The +12v Battery model (xxx5) should also work then, AFAIK.
Thanks for the heads up. I was planning on putting a bill acceptor in my machine when it arrives in the next week or two. Guess I gotta go order a new bill acceptor now.
I have definitely had people not play the game due to this. They had a dollar in hand , and just moved onto the next machine. I had left the bill acceptor in it as we were awaiting a new one. Which arrived yesterday , so we will be installing it today.
$159 plus shipping
https://www.endtrading.com/l70
https://na.suzohapp.com/products/bill_validators/42-7057-00
here is a 110v adapter you can buy. wire the two yellow wires to the coin switch common and pulse.
Quoted from KingPinGames:https://na.suzohapp.com/products/bill_validators/42-7057-00
here is a 110v adapter you can buy. wire the two yellow wires to the coin switch common and pulse.
Honestly, that is the route I'd take. (But, Happ has a $100 minimum order, keep that in mind!) There are some available on ebay, however.
Quoted from Coyote:Well, that's really strange. And annoying to any operators wanting to put the game out on location.
As far as I know, all (or most, at least..) vids, redemption, use 110v models, so operators have multiple spare units sitting around. (Hell, I'm NOT an operator anymore, and I still have about 5 of them waiting for games..!)
But now, I can't use any of my spares. Have to go out and get a new one.
It's NOT MDB, so there's that, at least.
And I'm going to assume that the coin door wasn't changed, so which means a any of the 23xx-28xx series will work, as long as you have a compact bezel for an upstacker (xx[1, 4, 5, maybe D]x). The +12v Battery model (xxx5) should also work then, AFAIK.
Supposedly it's a UL thing. They're getting stricter and don't want 120v at the door. But it's not in the DI manual and early machines did not have the 12v tag on the connector, so there was no way to know.
Quoted from PinMonk:Supposedly it's a UL thing. They're getting stricter and don't want 120v at the door. But it's not in the DI manual and early machines did not have the 12v tag on the connector, so there was no way to know.
If that IS the case, would be interesting to see if other manufacturer (Stern, arcades) start changing over too.
We Stock those adaptor cables too and the 12v BA's most of the time.
Most of the industry is starting to switch to the 12v.. I think it has to do with UL not liking 110v going to the coin door.
https://gameexchange.biz/products/mei-harness-42-7075-00-110v-line-cord
JJ
Probably why Stern makes you DIY the Bill Acceptor cable from the head to the coin door on newer machines.
Quoted from PinMonk:Probably why Stern makes you DIY the Bill Acceptor cable from the head to the coin door on newer machines.
Thats my guess too.
I don't use Suzohapp unless there is a part I can't get anywhere else. Almost everything they have you can get cheaper. They probably have deals with vendor's, but if your just buying nickel and dime stuff...
I use twisted quarter for all my trackball and pool table parts.
http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=483_660_663&products_id=2560
Quoted from hocuslocus:I don't use Suzohapp unless there is a part I can't get anywhere else. Almost everything they have you can get cheaper. They probably have deals with vendor's, but if your just buying nickel and dime stuff...
I use twisted quarter for all my trackball and pool table parts.
http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=483_660_663&products_id=2560
Twisted quarter is awesome.
Quoted from hocuslocus:I don't use Suzohapp unless there is a part I can't get anywhere else. Almost everything they have you can get cheaper. They probably have deals with vendor's, but if your just buying nickel and dime stuff...
I use twisted quarter for all my trackball and pool table parts.
http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=483_660_663&products_id=2560
Thats a Pyramid Harness. not 100% sure the pinout is the same.
Quoted from CafeOne:I have definitely had people not play the game due to this. They had a dollar in hand , and just moved onto the next machine. I had left the bill acceptor in it as we were awaiting a new one. Which arrived yesterday , so we will be installing it today.
$159 plus shipping
https://www.endtrading.com/l70
Does it come with harness to plug into game ? The Pyramid ones you need to wire in.
LTG : )
Quoted from CafeOne:I have definitely had people not play the game due to this. They had a dollar in hand , and just moved onto the next machine. I had left the bill acceptor in it as we were awaiting a new one. Which arrived yesterday , so we will be installing it today.
$159 plus shipping
https://www.endtrading.com/l70
You can get a nice used Mars 2454 or Mars 2654 for about that.
Quoted from PinMonk:You can get a nice used Mars 2454 or Mars 2654 for about that.
You COULD, but then you can't put $100 worth of credits on the machine in one go. 
Quoted from LTG:Does it come with harness to plug into game ? The Pyramid ones you need to wire in.
LTG : )
Yes, it was plug and play, and the RGB LED lights are very attractive to the kids playing!
Quoted from Coyote:You COULD, but then you can't put $100 worth of credits on the machine in one go.
We turn off everything except 1s and 5s anyway, so no practical difference.
Quoted from PinMonk:We turn off everything except 1s and 5s anyway, so no practical difference.
Back on track, that's an interesting model - the webpage says it has a bill stacker, but the picture doesn't show it. The faceplate in the image will only fit the upper hold of a coin door, not the lower. So I'd be curious what he got.
Quoted from Coyote:Back on track, that's an interesting model - the webpage says it has a bill stacker, but the picture doesn't show it. The faceplate in the image will only fit the upper hold of a coin door, not the lower. So I'd be curious what he got.
Looks more like a stackerless, but there is a hint of a stacker door on top rear.
What ever he got, it works in Dialed In. And the coin door on Dialed In only has the bottom hole for a validator, no top hole. No top hole on any JJP coin door.
LTG : )
Quoted from CafeOne:Looks like a down stacker maybe a possibility in the manual , but works fine as a stacker less since we don't keep the top of the coin tray on . Apologies for the blurry tablet photos .
The 12V flag on the power lead in the second picture is not on early-run games. Good to see they fixed that.
Quoted from LTG:Looks more like a stackerless, but there is a hint of a stacker door on top rear.
What ever he got, it works in Dialed In. And the coin door on Dialed In only has the bottom hole for a validator, no top hole. No top hole on any JJP coin door.
LTG : )
Interesting, good to know. They also apparently enlarged the hole, so that other faceplates can be used (overe the 'compact' ones..)
Quoted from Gexchange:Thats a Pyramid Harness. not 100% sure the pinout is the same.
ooops, wrong page.
http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=483_591&products_id=3076
pretty easy to pop the pins out though, if you have the right pin extractor.
Quoted from CafeOne:Looks like a down stacker maybe a possibility in the manual , but works fine as a stacker less since we don't keep the top of the coin tray on . Apologies for the blurry tablet photos .
yeah that's a stackerless bill acceptor, I don't mess with those unless I have to. they jam a lot more often, plus it's a pain in the ass to get all the bills in order. I know for WOZ I used an MEI ae2600 upstacker, I bought a 12 volt model of the 2600 as well, worked great in my ultracade. I think they even have a 12v battery model, guess you would use it on pool tables and the like.
http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=483_484&products_id=1224
i have this one and it works fine. on cranes and other games that require 12v as well.
Mars/MEI 2654 is confirmed to work. 115v harness can be rewired to work with 12v or you can track down a Mars/MEI 12v harness (which is harder than it sounds - new acceptors come with this, so getting 12v harnesses by themselves is challenging).
I tracked down a new Mars 12v adapter harness for Mars 12v acceptors from Smitty's in Oregon for the 12v Bill Acceptor I bought used that came without one. I had rewired a 115v one temporarily to work, but it's nice to have the real-deal. Plugs right in to the bill acceptor plug at the door like usual. They have more stock if you're looking for one. (503) 233-7000 and ask for Mike.
Quoted from Gexchange:Thats a Pyramid Harness. not 100% sure the pinout is the same.
It is exactly the same pinout as Mars 120 vac bill acceptors and directly interchangeable.
If a person needs to rewire the bill acceptor connector in the machine's harness, here are the part numbers:
Tyco/AMP (a.k.a. TE Connectivity) # 770987-1 Pin, 18-22 AWG (Mouser Electronics # 571-7709871)
Tyco/AMP # 172161-1 Housing, 9 position (Mouser Electronics # 571-1721611)
yeah I noticed they did the same with AFMR, luckily I bought 1 extra a while back. is there a reason as to why they are doing this, not a big deal just curious?
Quoted from hocuslocus:is there a reason as to why they are doing this, not a big deal just curious?
Easier to get UL approval not having 110AC on the coin door.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Easier to get UL approval not having 110AC on the coin door.
Gottlieb never had a problem with 120 VAC on the coin doors in the 1960's.
Quoted from KenLayton:Gottlieb never had a problem with 120 VAC on the coin doors in the 1960's.
They probably never had a problem with 120 AC in the players of their customers games either, in the 1960's.
LTG : )
Quoted from KenLayton:Gottlieb never had a problem with 120 VAC on the coin doors in the 1960's.
We had see-saws, swings, and merry go rounds on our playgrounds in the 60's and 70's, too.
Quoted from LTG:Easier to get UL approval not having 110AC on the coin door.
LTG : )
ok, makes sense. I figured it had something to do with it being a higher voltage.
thanks
Quoted from KenLayton:Hobbit comes already wired for a 120 VAC bill acceptor.
Yeah. That's why it was so confusing when Dialed In showed up and I couldn't get the bill acceptor to work when it worked fine in a WoZ and Hobbit. It was early production, so there was no documentation on it, and no flags on the lead saying "12v" like there is now. It was driving me nuts until I called about it, which is why I made this thread originally - so it was here for others coming after me.
Quoted from pinaholic:To use a 120 volt DBV, I guess you can get the harness Happ Controls sells with the power chord and 2 yellow wires that you can wire to appropriate connector or coin switch and plug into service outlet
I didn't want to hack it with a power adapter and service outlet plug, but use it the way it was designed with the existing harness. About 2x as expensive used for a 12v vs 115v, but at least it's installed as-designed now.
Back on post # 32 of this thread, I list the part numbers for the connector pins for the machine side of the Mars 9 pin bill acceptor connector. Pin 4 (AC Hot) and pin 6 (AC neutral) are the 120 volt ac power terminals for 120 volt ac bill acceptors.
I just bought a 12v Pyramid validator for my Dialed In LE. The accepter came with a generic harness like this one:
http://shop.pyramidacceptors.com/18-pin-i-o-harness-for-pyramid-apex-05aa0002/
The 18pin goes into the accepter and the other ends are open for you to pin a connector to. I'm not trying to mess with making my own connector, and I'm not at the same location as my game right now, but I'm assuming the game takes a 9pin molex plug for the validator?
If so, I would need an adapter like this one here to connect the two?
http://shop.pyramidacceptors.com/igt-id022-game-retrofit-harness-for-apex-bill-validators-05aa0014/
Thanks in advance for the help!
Quoted from djoverpour:If so, I would need an adapter like this one here to connect the two?
Since the 9 pin connector to plug into the game doesn't have a pin/wire into the middle hole, no. And the other end won't plug into the spot on the validator.
Dig around that page and click a few things and there is a contact thing where you can ask. They are very helpful to get you hooked up.
Quoted from djoverpour:I just bought a 12v Pyramid validator for my Dialed In LE. The accepter came with a generic harness like this one:
http://shop.pyramidacceptors.com/18-pin-i-o-harness-for-pyramid-apex-05aa0002/
That is the only one they make, you have to wire it into the game. On that 18 pin connector Pin 1 is Brown ( ground ) Pin 11 is Red ( 12 volts power ) Study the manual for the validator and the game to figure what wires you need where.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:That is the only one they make, you have to wire it into the game. On that 18 pin connector Pin 1 is Brown ( ground ) Pin 11 is Red ( 12 volts power ) Study the manual for the validator and the game to figure what wires you need where.
LTG : )
Ok that helps a lot thanks. So I need pin 1 and pin 11, and then probably pin 4 for the DC ground correct? How should I wire these to the machine? Bypass the connector and splice into the wire?
1 (resized).JPGI haven't hooked one of these up, you'll have to figure it out.
The 9 pin connector :
#5 12 volt DC Power
#7 Credit Normally Open
#8 Credit Common
#9 Ground
You can see the numbers on the connector or find it on line. They are :
Locking tab on top of connector
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
Bottom of connector
LTG : )
Ok so I called Pyramid and they said I only need 3 wires, pin 11 for 12v, pin 4 for ground, and pin 1 for credit output. He said I only needed one wire for credit, and so does the manual. Does anyone know the pinout on the 9pin connector coming from the game? Ive looked all over this 400page manual and haven't had much luck yet. Thanks again
Quoted from djoverpour:Does anyone know the pinout on the 9pin connector coming from the game?
You mean like this ?
You can see the numbers on the connector or find it on line. They are :
Locking tab on top of connector
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
Bottom of connector
#5 - Red Wire
#9 - Black Wire
#7 - Brown wire I think
Call them back and ask.
LTG : )
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