Guns N' Roses (CE)
Jersey Jack, 2020
Pirates of the Caribbean (CE)
Jersey Jack, 2018
Willy Wonka & The Chocolate Factory (CE)
Jersey Jack, 2019You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider pinmonk.
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Quoted from happyclan:Maybe I took this sideways with 4K. I want extremely high DPI. An iPad 3 has retina display and never approached 4K rendering but looked nice. Even the CGC LCD is muuuuch higher DPI and has a black that is well...like the name implies...black. It's sad my retro remake's display is kicking the Wonka in his gobstoppers.
Yes, dot pitch is the thing that really will make a difference. Chasing 4k is a waste of time on a 27" screen.
Quoted from happyclan:Also waiting on parts from mainland China. Expecting delays with Covid (although is that an excuse anymore???).
There are very few areas of China on a hard lockdown from COVID anymore. Pretty much business as usual unless you're talking about the Hebei province to the south of Beijing where they hard-locked the whole city in late January that's still messed up.
Manufacturers by Shanghai and in the south by Hong Kong are pretty normal, although you may have delays getting your shipment OUT of the country as it waits for a plane because there's so much backed-up volume. I've had a couple get stuck there for a WEEK recently, although UPS seems to be much worse than Fedex, and if your shipper offers FAREX air express shipping tell them no, hard. It's Alibaba's logistics and it's TERRIBLE.
Quoted from happyclan:Alrighty gentlemen. The parts have all arrived and I got to testing. Here's the setup:
LCD driver - T.M3663.81 (find on AliExpress)
Panel - AU Optronics M270HW02 (find on Aliexpress OR rip one from an IdeaCentre A270)
DC Adapter - 12V 5A
Panel looks boss. Pictures don't really do it justice and the lighting is different. But the replacement panel has real black. It's awesome. I need to figure out a way to mount the new LCD driver and supply power. I'm not sure what the DC power supply in the machine is rated. I want to say it says 10V on the custom chassis.
Note: I haven't tested whether the JJP controller can drive this thing. If so, then this project just got really easy.
I'll keep you posted. For me, my mind is made up seeing them in person and the replacement wins.
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You can get power from the cable that plugs into PWR1 and tapping the 12v lead with an ATX style power supply connector (yellow, but some of the cables coming off this are all black, now, so no yellow/red, you just have to know the yellow position in that case).
Quoted from happyclan:Sooooo. I popped in the new panel. It's daytime, so I figure I'll wait for the sun to go down. I used my NEW panel and the OLD board.
In the meantime, I take JJP panel and pop it into an old office machine that I'm going to resurrect as a headless server (now with head maybe). Anyway, I notice the JJP panel looks pretty damn sweet. Hmmmm.
Sun goes down. Guess what? Display looks as bad as it did before! Turns out it's looking like the driver.
I pop new driver (one I said above) in. Looks great. Great I say. One problem. Display doesn't power on when the machine powers on. I have to hit the "on" button on the board. Good gravy.
Now I'm back to either (1) finding a new driver board or (2) finding a hack to turn it on when the CPU power rail fires up. The takeaway is JJP probably shipped an okay panel with an absolute dogs**t board. I'm off to aliexpress. At least I fixed my office machine.
RobbyIRL5 what's going on with your world? Did you get that bezel sorted?
What does the driver board look like? Is the "ON" button surface mount? Seems like a switch bypass should be possible. Do you have a high-res picture of the board?
Quoted from happyclan:Good idea but no setting.
here you go PinMonk. anything we can do on the control buttons?
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I'm assuming that the power button is a momentary button that triggers a transistor, that turns on the power. So *maybe* just bypassing the transistor (not on the control board, the other board) just lets the power flow freely whenever the pin is powered on.
Quoted from pins4u:More likely it's all done with the magic of software inside the main chip.
Mmm. I dunno. The mpu still has to open a gate somewhere to let the power through. If you bypass the switch and software entirely and just work on the "gate" it opens, it should be possible. My only concern would be surges at power on since it wouldn't have any delay when the machine was powered on.
EDIT: According to a similar-looking board, there is apparently an "always on" setting on the menu. Once you set that, it will turn on at power.
Quoted from happyclan:PinMonk do you have a link to that board? I'm worried that Always On just means no standby...because that's most of what i've found but honestly haven't been working on this too much.
I don't sorry - I didn't save any links. I found it searching around alibaba using the markings from the board you pictured. One of them had a PDF instruction link in English/Chinese. It seemed pretty straightforward. I'd just try setting the menu to that and see if it comes on with power every time.
Quoted from VinnyBlanc:Hey guys, it’s been a few months since last post and want to see if anyone solidified a solid (close to plug n play?) repalcement. My ~ 1 year old Wonka just got a strip of what looks like “dead” pixels in the top right corner. Looking for a replacement screen….
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Are you sure it's in the screen? That looks like the foam came off and sagged down...
Quoted from VinnyBlanc:I wish it were that easy
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It might be the foam inside the LCD frame (hard to tell from the pics). LCDs don't usually fail like that, unless maybe there was some pressure put on the screen at that corner at an angle...
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Frisco, TX