Farmington, MN
The pictures make it look it look slightly more extreme than it is. Especially if you are just playing Pirates with nothing to compare it to side by side. But, there is definitely a big difference.
Brian
(Topic ID: 288059)
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Guns N' Roses (CE)
Jersey Jack, 2020-
Pirates of the Caribbean (CE)
Jersey Jack, 2018
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Willy Wonka & The Chocolate Factory (CE)
Jersey Jack, 2019
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Just want to post that my GnR monitor looked terrible out of the box. All washed out.
Looked at the settings. Brightness was at 100 and contrast at 50. Sounds good in principle but just didn’t work for this monitor.
Played with it a bit. Interestingly, with brightness at 0 and contrast at 100, it looks pretty good! Not too dim and great contrast. Not over contrasty.
Give it a try. Buttons are on the back right once you pull the monitor out (it’s attached magnetically and is mounted on an extending arm.. just pull straight out at the top of the monitor from both sides simultaneously).
Quoted from adrock:Just want to post that my GnR monitor looked terrible out of the box. All washed out.
Looked at the settings. Brightness was at 100 and contrast at 50. Sounds good in principle but just didn’t work for this monitor.
Played with it a bit. Interestingly, with brightness at 0 and contrast at 100, it looks pretty good! Not too dim and great contrast. Not over contrasty.
Give it a try. Buttons are on the back right once you pull the monitor out (it’s attached magnetically and is mounted on an extending arm.. just pull straight out at the top of the monitor from both sides simultaneously).
I did the exact same thing when I got mine - it was cranked all the way up (brightness) - bringing it down was a huge difference.
Quoted from mamemaster:I did the exact same thing when I got mine - it was cranked all the way up (brightness) - bringing it down was a huge difference.
I adjusted my Pirates from factory.... It was for sure a huge difference.. but, no where near my DI or WoZ. Not even close...
At the price these games are now, to cut quality is pretty crappy. At least make the nice monitor in the LE.
Quoted from gstellenberg:I read this a bunch of times and couldn't tell if you were talking about the P3 displays or not. Just to avoid any confusion, every production P3 has shipped with very high quality playfield displays, with nearly 180-degree viewing angles. Our backbox displays look even better (because they're not under a thick protective sheet of polycarbonate)... super vibrant and wide viewing angles. I think we use the same size (27") as the ones being questioned in this thread. If true, feel free to message me about sourcing replacements.
See pics of the early production machine at my house. Ignore the whitewood / prototype Heist playfield.
- Gerry
https://www.multimorphic.com
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I was just talking about specs in general with regards to usage, not saying that any P3 games are lacking in any of them.
Red Deer, AB
Quoted from pinghetto:The pictures make it look it look slightly more extreme than it is. Especially if you are just playing Pirates with nothing to compare it to side by side. But, there is definitely a big difference.
Brian
The blacks on that pirate game are horrifically washed out looks like a very cheap TN panel.
Quoted from Kare9:The blacks on that pirate game are horrifically washed out looks like a very cheap TN panel.
It's VA, but I would rather have a good TN than what we got. :S
Just an update, I'm still working on this. The depth dims are what give me some problems. The cheap panel is skinny ~10mm. I see why JJP went to the cheap one. First, it's cheap. But second, the "better" POTC and WOZ panels are discontinued, so they kind of had to make the shift if they wanted to stick to the same design for the brackets, etc.
We could go with a newer IPS, but that will require moving that entire bracket assembly around because it's too close to the glass. The IPS panels run about 15mm to close to 20mm. That would be touching the backglass, if the thing even fit. That bracket moves, but I'm not ready to get the Makita out on the backbox of a new CE.
I'll be back in a couple weeks when I know more.
Then it's on to the Wonkvision 800x600 pathetic garbage panel in the playfield.
Quoted from zaphX:I'm interested in upgrading that one too. Interestingly the mini panel on GNR looks pretty great to me by comparison.
Well don't get too excited about the 800x600 resolution. I remember when that was awesome. It was 1994 and I was playing Doom. 
Quoted from happyclan:Well don't get too excited about the 800x600 resolution. I remember when that was awesome. It was 1994 and I was playing Doom.
It's not the resolution I dislike on Wonkavision, it's the colors. Interested in your research in this area!
Quoted from happyclan:It's VA, but I would rather have a good TN than what we got. :S
Just an update, I'm still working on this. The depth dims are what give me some problems. The cheap panel is skinny ~10mm. I see why JJP went to the cheap one. First, it's cheap. But second, the "better" POTC and WOZ panels are discontinued, so they kind of had to make the shift if they wanted to stick to the same design for the brackets, etc.
We could go with a newer IPS, but that will require moving that entire bracket assembly around because it's too close to the glass. The IPS panels run about 15mm to close to 20mm. That would be touching the backglass, if the thing even fit. That bracket moves, but I'm not ready to get the Makita out on the backbox of a new CE.
I'll be back in a couple weeks when I know more.
Then it's on to the Wonkvision 800x600 pathetic garbage panel in the playfield.
Thanks for doing the legwork on this. If this comes to a group buy situation, I’m in. (Hopefully my day one GNR LE arrives before any replacement panel.)
Quoted from Blackjacker:Thanks for doing the legwork on this. If this comes to a group buy situation, I’m in. (Hopefully my day one GNR LE arrives before any replacement panel.)
I'd also be in.
Depending on price.... For a Pirates and GNR.
Quoted from PoMC:I'd be in, just because why not? Wonka, DI:LE and GNR SE here, so there's 3 right away for a group buy.
Rad. I got a panel sample coming. It’s a discontinued one but I might know a model of pc display that we could tear down for the panel. Good times.
Thanks for all the support.
Quoted from happyclan:Rad. I got a panel sample coming. It’s a discontinued one but I might know a model of pc display that we could tear down for the panel. Good times.
Thanks for all the support.
I'm happy to beta-test anything in any or all of the games I have when/if the time comes.
Quoted from pinghetto:I'd also be in.
Depending on price.... For a Pirates and GNR.
There's no "depending on price" in pinball!
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Wow I didn't think I'd start a wave. I have a panel coming Mar. 1st, so I'll check it out within a few days.
Just so everyone knows, i'm not doing a bulk order on panels for the gang. I'm going to post as much working info as I can and what i did to make it all happen (or totally burn up).
My hunch is this thread stays alive for a while until this is sorted out. We have some tough tolerances in the backglass. The panel sits nice at ~10mm in its harness. And I could probably squeeze another 2mm easily without touching the glass (and still having the padding foam). The problem is the better panels run in the 13mm-15mm+ range.
Oh and you better believe that piece of trash 7" display is next.
Just want to make sure that everyone has tried Brightness at 0 and Contrast at 100. I’m pretty picky with displays and I think this looks pretty good.
Quoted from adrock:Just want to make sure that everyone has tried Brightness at 0 and Contrast at 100. I’m pretty picky with displays and I think this looks pretty good.
Yeah. Have tried that. Also, went through the different "modes".
Again, my Pirates is acceptable. But, just not even close to having the "pop" that my WoZ, Hobbit, and Dialed In have. Not even close.
Appreciate this approach Im down to tear in to some computer monitors.
Quoted from happyclan:Wow I didn't think I'd start a wave. I have a panel coming Mar. 1st, so I'll check it out within a few days.
Just so everyone knows, i'm not doing a bulk order on panels for the gang. I'm going to post as much working info as I can and what i did to make it all happen (or totally burn up).
My hunch is this thread stays alive for a while until this is sorted out. We have some tough tolerances in the backglass. The panel sits nice at ~10mm in its harness. And I could probably squeeze another 2mm easily without touching the glass (and still having the padding foam). The problem is the better panels run in the 13mm-15mm+ range.
Oh and you better believe that piece of trash 7" display is next.
Quoted from Vitty:I’m in on a couple as well if it all works out! My Wonka and guns are not looking nice flanking my pirates CE monitor
Ditto
Bumping this thread to see about alternative panels in the JJP machines (which fit)? I did some self-induced damage to one of mine, and ordered the same stock part number from China (it's the same panel that comes in an all-in-one Lenova PC, no US resellers have it, and JJP wants $600 but it probably includes the entire assembly). Would love to know if any replacements fit (and look better!).
RobbyIRL5 hey, still waiting for my OEM panel in the mail. it's coming straight out of china but was supposed to be here on the 1st....
M270HVN02.1 is reported to be better than the one ending in 2.0. But 2.1 is discontinued so you'll be digging on ebay & aliexpress or a dumpster for it. But if you can wait, let's see what other panels we can hack into the head.
Feel free to PM.
Quoted from happyclan:Oh and you better believe that piece of trash 7" display is next.
Godspeed man.
Panel is here. I need a cable because I don't want to destroy the JJP OEM panel. I thought I'd posted some info about the LCD controller.
It's basic RTD2483 based board. Basically a $30 part online. I can't find this exact board online but it's really a universal part.
I had a fun time taking it out because the screws shattered with my screwdriver so I had to drill one screw out. Super annoying. Here's a shot of the driver board if anyone cares. Note how the VGA pin out were just soldered out to fit the chassis (which doesn't have a VGA out opening--nor should it in 2021). Lots of room in the chassis for a new controller or your ex-wife's body for that matter. I wonder whether they were considering putting a power supply back there and decided against it.
Standoffs on the board are 135mm x 55mm on center. Can't find a spec sheet online...
The takeaway is no secret sauce in this thing. It's a nice chassis though I have to admit. JJP did a good job there. It's more or less universal with the exception that the panels need to be mounted from the sides and not the rear (which forecloses a lot of panel options).
Stay tuned.
IMG_20210303_180214 (resized).jpgIMG_20210303_190944 (resized).jpg
Quoted from bigd1979:Potc
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Di
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So di was before potc but yet the potc monitor looks better? I can't find a model number on eaither. I put both at exactly the same settings also. The menu system is not exactly the same but very very similar. They also have different board setups on the back? I willl say di looks much much better now that I put the settings the same as potc but the blacks are still not as good as the potc.
Got my M270HVN02.0 from China. Simple swap other than the light strip at the bottom. Cable goes from a 2 pin plug, soldered to the light strip +/- on the original display, to a 6 pin configuration I’ve never seen on the new display. Comes out of this port (circled) on the control board. Any ideas?
A881B1F5-EEE4-4502-9088-2A440AF6D731 (resized).jpegD8354DFE-6A38-46AC-B92B-08279A15A1A8 (resized).jpegE042D071-8B94-490F-88C9-5CCA889A2485 (resized).jpegQuoted from RobbyIRL5:Got my M270HVN02.0 from China. Simple swap other than the light strip at the bottom. Cable goes from a 2 pin plug, soldered to the light strip +/- on the original display, to a 6 pin configuration I’ve never seen on the new display. Comes out of this port (circled) on the control board. Any ideas?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I'm a little confused about what is what.
Have you got pics of the original LCD setup compared to the one you bought?
Quoted from zaphX:I'm a little confused about what is what.
Have you got pics of the original LCD setup compared to the one you bought?
I'll try to explain, but everything is back together now, so can't take any new pictures. For the record, I'm in this for hobby now, because it wasn't a simple swap, I just ordered the replacement assembly from JJP, but as I'm and intrigued tinkerer (and have a monitor from China that I don't want to send back!), I'm going to try to see this through...
I bought the M270HVN02.0 from China (I have a missing pixel on one of my JJP games that was likely self-induced during installation). That was the serial number on the back of the bracket holding the LCD screen. It appears to be the exact same panel, the only difference being the way that the LCD backlight is powered (the LVDS cable is the same). The one that came with it, has a red/black pair (that you can see in my picture) that is soldered to the power of the backlight strip (it runs into a hole in the corner of the back metal panel of the display), and it plugs into the control card. The new one, has a tiny 6-pin connector, which is presumably the backlight control (LVDS is the same). So it appears the spec on the monitor has changed. So what to do... On ebay, I found a controller board which is compatible with the new display (and the 2.1, 2.3, and about 200 other displays).
ebay.com link: HDMI DVI VGA LVDS LCD Controller Board For M270HVN02 0 1920x1080 LED Screen
This ensemble doesn't have the simple two wire power to go to the LED backlight (like the one that came on the pin), but it does have a connector to an inverter board (I don't know enough about the electronics to understand why an inverter board is needed, assuming to condition the power), which then has a wire that will go out and plug into that small 6-pin connector on the back of the new display. I don't know if any of this will fit on the mounting posts on the JJP bracket (stuck to the backside of the display), but I think I can either 3d print or buy some plastic posts with stick on the button (presuming this solution/display is any better than the stock one from JJP).
That's what I know so far! happyclan is on a similar path, and he'll probably get his China order before me.
1 week later
Quoted from djsolzs:Any updates?
I’m waiting for the compatible control PCB from Hong Kong. Should be soon I hope.
Quoted from djsolzs:Any updates?
Also waiting on parts from mainland China. Expecting delays with Covid (although is that an excuse anymore???).
Quoted from happyclan:Also waiting on parts from mainland China. Expecting delays with Covid (although is that an excuse anymore???).
There are very few areas of China on a hard lockdown from COVID anymore. Pretty much business as usual unless you're talking about the Hebei province to the south of Beijing where they hard-locked the whole city in late January that's still messed up.
Manufacturers by Shanghai and in the south by Hong Kong are pretty normal, although you may have delays getting your shipment OUT of the country as it waits for a plane because there's so much backed-up volume. I've had a couple get stuck there for a WEEK recently, although UPS seems to be much worse than Fedex, and if your shipper offers FAREX air express shipping tell them no, hard. It's Alibaba's logistics and it's TERRIBLE.
1 week later
I've got my panel and lcd driver board. I need a different inverter board for my panel's LCD. more accurately I need a cable for the inverter but bought a whole new one...a cool $9. Probably going to add another 2 weeks as it slowboats from China.
Once I get this whole thing strung together with vinyl tape, the sucky part will be figuring out how to mount the boards inside the JJP chassis. I'll try to get as much grounded but will probably have to go to vinyl adhesive standoffs.
Quoted from happyclan:I've got my panel and lcd driver board. I need a different inverter board for my panel's LCD. more accurately I need a cable for the inverter but bought a whole new one...a cool $9. Probably going to add another 2 weeks as it slowboats from China.
Once I get this whole thing strung together with vinyl tape, the sucky part will be figuring out how to mount the boards inside the JJP chassis. I'll try to get as much grounded but will probably have to go to vinyl adhesive standoffs.
I’ve got an update as well. The board I ordered has all the right connections (inverter and cable), but..... the monitor I have, is the same size visible screen, however the bezel is materially smaller. Ugh. So no direct replacement into the JJP mounting hardware. I’m thinking about printing some some blocks that I can wedge in and maybe use some gorilla double side tape to hold it in. Custom brackets would be nice or some really long (and thin) screws not sure if they exist. It’s about 5-10mm per side/top/bottom.
In the mean time I got the replacement from JJP and it came assembled and took 5 mins to swap in. And it seems much richer in color (less washed out) than the old one.
F614ED7E-CF6A-43CB-8305-412A914BC598 (resized).jpeg 1 week later
Alrighty gentlemen. The parts have all arrived and I got to testing. Here's the setup:
LCD driver - T.M3663.81 (find on AliExpress)
Panel - AU Optronics M270HW02 (find on Aliexpress OR rip one from an IdeaCentre A270)
DC Adapter - 12V 5A
Panel looks boss. Pictures don't really do it justice and the lighting is different. But the replacement panel has real black. It's awesome. I need to figure out a way to mount the new LCD driver and supply power. I'm not sure what the DC power supply in the machine is rated. I want to say it says 10V on the custom chassis.
Note: I haven't tested whether the JJP controller can drive this thing. If so, then this project just got really easy.
I'll keep you posted. For me, my mind is made up seeing them in person and the replacement wins.
PXL_20210411_023744721 (resized).jpgPXL_20210411_023802174 (resized).jpg
Quoted from happyclan:Alrighty gentlemen. The parts have all arrived and I got to testing. Here's the setup:
LCD driver - T.M3663.81 (find on AliExpress)
Panel - AU Optronics M270HW02 (find on Aliexpress OR rip one from an IdeaCentre A270)
DC Adapter - 12V 5A
Panel looks boss. Pictures don't really do it justice and the lighting is different. But the replacement panel has real black. It's awesome. I need to figure out a way to mount the new LCD driver and supply power. I'm not sure what the DC power supply in the machine is rated. I want to say it says 10V on the custom chassis.
Note: I haven't tested whether the JJP controller can drive this thing. If so, then this project just got really easy.
I'll keep you posted. For me, my mind is made up seeing them in person and the replacement wins.
[quoted image][quoted image]
You can get power from the cable that plugs into PWR1 and tapping the 12v lead with an ATX style power supply connector (yellow, but some of the cables coming off this are all black, now, so no yellow/red, you just have to know the yellow position in that case).
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