Also my glass is so tight, it’s impossibly to get off. It also seems like it’s scratching the edges and leaving sandy coating or glass whatever in the track. Which probably eventually ends up on the play Field. Unless that not what it is. Don’t know.

Is there a good safe way to bend the tracks just a bit to
Get a little room in there?

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Check the mod thread. We've been discussing the various Little Nellies that are out there. But to answer your question, the "Directors Cut" and the most recently released 1:36 model are identical from what I can tell. I have the Directors Cut and I think the blade span is 8"-8.5". Whatever it is, it's huge. I put mine above the spinner and tucked it in as tight as I could without interfering with the rocket or touching the sideblades and it hangs pretty far out in front of the drop targets. I came across a smaller 1:72 scale one that actually has some nice detail and is technically more accurate than the Corgi, but still no figure in the cockpit.

I went with the directors cut version. Worst case I can take a little off the blade. I think it looks odd not having Bond in the cockpit. Rather the rotor be slightly out of scale if needed.

My "Bond on a wand" has a wide arc that causes it to swing almost to the rocket thus passing beyond the "Dragon Car". Is there any kind of adjustment that limits the arc to stopping at or near the car?

This may be helpful. I used this strategy on my Godzilla. Seemed to fix the problem. Just be careful not to make marks on the side blade area. Better to do this before installing any sideblades. A cloth around the brush may protect the wood.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/243#post-7004180

Helpful. Thanks

I'll try that, thank you, appreciate the tip!

There's around 10 shorter sound scripts that play the main theme, from 1:37 to 4:06 in length, but I think those just reference locations in that longer 5:00 minute clip. So if you replace all or part of the 5:00 minute clip you might step on those shorter sound scripts. It's possible some of those are independent locations as placeholders for adding in additional music in future code releases though.

Even outside of PB you can explore some of the stuff that isn't implemented yet by extracting the files on a linux platform. For example:
bond (resized).jpg

*edit - pending licensor approval

It’s meant to swing that far. It’s not coded yet but Bond is supposed to drop the ball on the rocket wire ramp during certain modes

Interesting thought. It is hard to measure, but the ring on my LE is probably half a millimeter higher than the playfield.

Based on the size of the ball, I don’t see a large opportunity for it to influence the shots, but it could be there.

Personally, I prefer it over my pro where the ball falls into it constantly.

I haven’t noticed any difference in my ability to hit the shots between the two.

Ah, right, curve of the ball. D'oh.

Yeah, I double checked and the ring on mine is just ever so slightly below the pf level. Probably like .5mm. Enough to hang up a very slow ball, though.

Good to know. Thanks.

I had two interesting things happen tonight.

First was basically a stoppage of the pops. At some point during a ball, they simply stopped responding. After the ball ended, I looked closely. Lower pop looked OK but the upper pop almost looked like the skirt (that triggers the pop) was stuck down? I decided to try the next ball and it came back alive and ran as normal for that game and a few after. Anybody have one stick like this? I’ll have to raise the playfield and see if there’s anything on the underside that could have caused it to be sticky.

The other was a Bond on a Wand malfunction. On one ball, he never indexed forward away from his home / zero position. Usually he flies out slightly so when you are hitting the upper loop, the ball can pass. This on this ball, he never moved out or somewhere during the ball he returned all the way back. Ultimately I ended up triggering Jetpack Multiball via a left scoop shot and High Stakes and found myself with two balls trapped up there. One caught behind his feet and another right behind it. When the ball finder cycled, it didn’t move BoaW but it did kick the white stop pin which knocked one of the balls backward down the ramp. I opened the coin door and pulled out the power switch and the BoaW would not move when I ran the test. I power cycled the machine and it returned to normal function. Can’t see were it was physically stuck anywhere? Could be a software bug?

Interesting stuff. I ended up having a couple great games after so it was strange.

It would have been cool if we could adjust it like literally every other playfield thing .

HEY STERN! THE DUAL FIRING POP BUMPERS ARE REALLY LAME!
STOP BEING SO CHEAP. FUCK.

The pops dont bother me 1 bit, can't even see the upper one. I really like this game so far, even at 20% code

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Pop bumper spoon switch binding. Just adjust the sppon so the rod is nice and centered in the spoon.

I'm probably just going to shim it with some thin nylon washers where the screws are to bring the ring up to level. I have no idea how you fix it if it's too high, though.

I addressed the "rampggate" ball damage controversy tonight with these 5 self-adhesive, thin black cushions. The balls in my game do show accelerated wear at 150 games played, although the playfield looks fine.

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Unacceptable. Get new glass!!!

Played game finally! What a disappointment! Wow. Very bummed. Glad I bailed on the game. Other games are coming soon. Hope it’s an improvement over this game! Surprised Stern out this game out the way they did. Weird. Hopefully they improve the code soon. Not sure it will help.

woah take this shit to the hype thread, Luckily i can see your taste in your avatar and you instantly lost all credibility.

Easiest thing to do, is slightly untighten the screws of the side rails. Half a turn can make a big difference.

But not always. On an number of these the glass guides were too close. That's inside the rails, so loosening the rails wouldn't (and didn't) help.

Prefer the tight glass than having to put anti-rattle tape on glass and found that channels that are too tight slowly “wear-in” as evidenced by small black plastic shavings created by the sharp leading glass edge when being pushed back in.

My GZLE was the tightest I’ve seen prior to Bond, found that running multiple q-tips w plastic cleaner in the channel removed a surprising amount of debris also. A surprising amount.

The glass is easier to remove on that machine now hence the recommendation, but surely don’t need glass suction cups or rubber gloves to do it, and again, after experiencing glass rattle on older machines w better woofs will always prefer tight…

These look perfect! Thanks!

I’ve always been under the impression that with new machines there is always a break-in period depending on scoop / ramp placement and design as some exposed metal edges get pounded smoother by balls. Remember this is a small area on an upright edge or the like where the ball connects.

Over the years I’ve carefully watched the balls in new machines and found that they get “chopped” and replaced more when the game is new and less over time - and witnessed those sharp edges getting smoothed where the ball connects.

My super-technical way of judging balls originally started by looking at them w a small magnifying glass but then I simply started running my finger nail at a 90-degree angle while spinning the ball. Any perceived nick to be felt and the ball is replaced.

Just my .02 but it may be easier to let the balls smooth some surfaces over time than worry about replacing cushioning?

It’s a design flaw to the ramp plain and simple. Needs to look like this recent stern with a cross PF shot to ramp.

Spoke directly with Stern yesterday. They agreed doesn’t look normal and going to engineering.

You all need to report it instead of bandaid fixes to your $10k game.

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Nice let us know how they will fix it. I dont dont think they will send us a New metal ramp...?
I'll get my bond pro in 10days so i'm a littlz bit worried about...

Not sure, didn’t talk to them until late in day yesterday.

Good call, certainly could be the case. I remember having to fiddle with the pop bumper spoon a bit when I swapped out to the clear pop plastics on GZ. Will have a look, thanks!

Exactly. This is pinball, I expect even stern learns something they never would have thought about from every game. And I don't give a flying shit about my straight power cord. But this is so basic, so obvious, dead in the middle of the playfield - seriously, I love Gomez's games but he should be embarrassed to have signed off on this. He knows why they put those blue/black bumpers at the end of ramps - there's one NEXT to this for crying out loud.

On a related, but slightly more understandable note: I'd recommend replacing the thin stern post sleeve on the post that sits at the front of the lane divide b/w pops and bond girl loop. Put a normal big thick one there. Look at it, and you can see the metal walls on either side are far enough out they're hitting balls on either side too. From the look of it, I'm guessing a fat sleeve was intended there and will eliminate the concern, and that is the sort of error I can understand and overlook.

Don't want to repeat what others said but the geometry on the pin is really unique and cool.

A lot of flow

Playfield quality is really nice so finally they went back mastering wood craftsmanship

Like any new machine you have to ajust a few things but since Avengers in 2013 this is by far the machine I had so many little things to look at.

Left flipper kept falling off because not tight properly

Left ramp had to be realigned

Diamond spinner popped off

A few other little things

All simple things

That henchmen ramp however is another story

For now I just used an under furniture sticker pad and it seems to do the job

The problem is not just when firing with the upper flipper but you can also hit that spot from the lower left flipper and really grind yours balls. So you have to protect and cover that metal spot angle.

Updated the code, still a lot more to come but I really love that game.

The theme is right on for me but nevertheless the design of the game is amazing. Really fast and once code is completed there is a lot of modes and things to do on that game.

Very happy with my purchase.

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Yeah, it isnt really a difficult thing to correct in my opinion. If the mouth of those ramps were just flared open a couple of degrees or rounded off on end like a bullnose finish which many other ramps have problem solved.

I went and looked at every machine I have and this is the only ramp where it is so blunt of an impact. Every other game I own either rounded/tapered end, flanked by stand ups protecting, a post with sleeve, a post with a round rubber to deflect. Lots of options when designing.

Unfortunately since the games have been produced only fixes will be a slightly tweaked ramp with flared or rounded edge or a slip on fox but not sure how it will look or impact the shot. It’s already a tough shot.

I'm drilling that post that's right of the scoop quite a bit, as well as the one left of the rocket, should I put some washers underneath there. I have seen in the past somebody is selling those clear PETG washers on here.
Incidentally whats the size required?

Yeah and you are right, still can't believe they missed that when designing.

Interesting. You’ve noticed the metal they’re getting hit?

Fixing the stacking so you don't kill modes when multiball starts, fixing the endless bucket of points from the 20M pop extravaganza and adding the rest of the modes and music will really bring it all together. I really like the game and the shots, a fun companion for GZ at our place.

A code update in time for the weekend sure would be nice...

That looks like a good temporary fix. What are those exactly? Amazon link would be great if possible...not familiar with that stuff (and I'm starting to have quite the "pinball inventory" of random stuff like that)

I am surprised Stern would insinuate anything relating to a design flaw, if you take a look at the games in your collection I believe you will see exposed metal edges everywhere that as far as I'm aware have never been considered design flaws (exposed plastic ramps different story). Agreed that tolerances / distances between rubbers and edges may be tighter on some games.

Not trying to deflate any perceived issue, I just don't see one so help me... outside of a few exposed edges for ball-strike is there something else that may be at risk?

Here are just a quick few I see in my collection from '91-current including my GZ (the scoops may look deceiving but the exposed edges are recessed in the shadow of the scoops) that I've never seen anyone try to protect / pad as an issue - also notice the small easing of the edges if you can from ball-strikes):

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Luke uses the force to keep balls away from the edge on my game.

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I also emailed Stern regarding the exposed metal on the ramp entrances. I bet a fix is in the works with the amount of complaints received now.

Just so I’m clear, this isn’t the Gottlieb James Bond club?!

I just bought one the other day, I’m jacked either way.

added pinwoofer yesterday and it put the smile back on my face,its a different game with all the sounds I can hear now.

Even with the limited audio content it really does make a big difference. Well worth the $!

We are talking 4 days old and the shot in question the metal edge is probably about 6-8” from the flipper.

Metal edge and entire side of ramp shouldn’t be trashed to shit in 4 days. In addition because the balls are all jacked up now my plastic plexi window is all dinged up.

If the game was 10 years old and this happened over time I get it but 4 days?

I’ll retract my design flaw comment however such a close blunt shot and the angle of impact from the different geometry is a factor that maybe wasn’t thought about. It’s an extremely fast difficult shot with a high brick rate. Doesn’t help.

Hijacking your own thread? Maybe it's time to sell this one and start an Indiana Jones thread.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club