(Topic ID: 83848)

James Bond 007 and Goldeneye Club

By Tsskinne

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 1,105 posts
  • 153 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 36 hours ago by Trent_Ball
  • Topic is favorited by 59 Pinsiders

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#534 4 years ago
Quoted from RDReynolds:

Just joined the club and immediately put it at our charity arcade! Stupid question - what do you need to do to trigger the satellite pop up ramp? Not sure if mine is working or not...it does in test so thinking I just don’t understand the rules. Thx!

You use the satellite via a hurry up mode and it also has its own multiball.

Multiball:
There are two ways of lighting multiball; one involves shooting the Center Eject Target to light the Lock Ramp for Virtual locks, and then collecting Virtual locks. The other involves draining without doing any work until Ball 3 starts. If you haven't gotten multiball by the start of Ball 3, the game will light both Satellite and Tank Multiball.

If you want to do it the hard way, shoot the Center Eject Target until the Lock Ramp is lit for a Virtual Lock. You only need one hit for your first two multiballs; then you need 2 hits to start the third. Not sure after that.

Collect two Virtual Locks to light Satellite Multiball. The top left inlane switch will raise the Pop-Up Ramp for a shot at the rotating Satellite dish. You need to get the ball on the magnet in the center of the dish in order to start Satellite Multiball.

While Satellite Multiball is lit, if you hit the Center Eject Target, the Right Ramp will be lit for Tank Multiball. If you hit it again, the Mode Start Lane will also be lit for Tank Multiball.

Hurry Up:
The Left Inlane raises the Pop-Up Ramp for a shot at the Satellite. The value starts at 90M, and counts down by 5M's until 10M? and then quits. One shot to the Satellite ends the mode.

Full golden eye rules here:
http://pinball.org/rules/goldeneye.html

4 months later
#548 4 years ago
Quoted from PappyBoyington:

Can someone please take a picture of this area on their Goldeneye for me? I need to double check my wiring to the flipper magnet fuse.
Thanks[quoted image]

Hope this helps.

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3 months later
#587 4 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

One last plea for a voltage reading on F20, going to replace that bridge today but I'd like confirmation on my suspicion before desoldering those giant lugs.

73.5V on mine

#589 4 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

FFFFF I have no idea why that fuse is blowing then. THANK YOU FOR TESTING THAT! Either magnet blows fuse f20 (3a slo). The transistors all test in spec, both magnets have about 5ohm resistance, diodes all functional. The new 3A slow fuses I got looked different than the old ones (instead of coiled wire in the fuse it was a single strand like a fast, but with a lump in the middle). For science I tried putting in a 4A slow in exasperation and everything worked perfectly with no fuse blow so i dont know what's getting over powered just barely enough to immediately blow a 3a but not a 4a, unless the new fuses are indeed wonky... if the original blew on an unlikely fluke.
The bridge for the magnets wouldn't end up shorting "just a little" right? It should either be wide open or not?

Could it be something going on with the pic chip on the magnet board? I've heard that chip can be flakey and cause weird issues when it's not working properly.

4 months later
#609 4 years ago
Quoted from pbjack:

The rod is secured by an E clip 1/4 inch diameter, part number 270-5002-00. See #16 in manual images below.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I can confirm via first hand experience that the clip is very tiny and was a real pain to get on and off.

3 months later
#656 3 years ago

I upgraded the copter on mine before I sold it looked way nicer than the original one. I drilled a hole from the bottom to add the controlled LED just like the original had.

I also had the tank shown in earlier post but didnt get around to mounting it before I sold the game. If you mount it flush to the ramp like the original it would need some surgery underneath. The bottom if the tank needs to be hollowed out a bit for the ball to fit under it.

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#659 3 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Didn’t think of putting the light in there. Nice

It's a game controlled light on the original so you should include it. It comes on and off depending on what's going on in the game.

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