Hey, glad you started this club - just got mine a few months ago.

The satellite dish is RIPE for a modification, it stands out so badly!!! I was going to create a decal, but applying a round decal to the interior of a curved dish is tricky. Soooo, I'm going with some black mesh applied to the front and back instead, with perhaps some silver sticker around the edge to add some metallic touches. Going to the dollar store to pick up a cheapo sunscreen for car windows that's made outta mesh.....

Targets are also in dire need of some stickerage - going to put bullet holes on the standup targets for the shootout and B - (target graphic) - O - N - D on the targets beneath the satellite.

Am on the hunt for a satellite - Amazon has this one:

(http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004G7MWFO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl)

But I'm holding off cause I don't know the exact measurement of the satellite itself......not given on the page.

Curiously, the good 'ol Bond car (for a reasonable price and the right size) is hard to locate - want to add one to the pf. Anyone have any leads?

I've got red LED beneath the machine - had red flipper buttons but currently fiddling with re-wiring that.

Does everyone's ball feed sound like it's going to break outta the side of the machine?? My balls feed so hard that I've placed a black rubber pad against the cabinet to forego any worsening of the dent that the balls have already made against the cabinet wall there!

Also have mirror blades, and full LED's which I need to take out - waaaay too bright, and ghosting like crazy.

-Nate

Doozie, thanks for the advice! I'll check the coil to see if it's a stronger one.

Still looking for the Aston Martin.......

I'll shoot some pics, you're right, the Z3 is there, but there's a shot of the good 'ol Aston Martin (isn't it on the backglass there in the bottom right?).

Gameplay question - you have the ability to terminate the Tank Multi-Ball by pulling the gun's trigger once you get Tank Multi-Ball going. Why would you want to terminate this multi-ball??

Ok, Doozie where'd you get that car???

Here's the Z3 - but nowhere near as "iconic"

http://www.3000toys.com/catalog/detail.aspx?itemfind=CORGITY95502

Greetings BasD! My ramps have been flame polished, although, unfortunately, the middle ramp has a crack along the bottom right - that ramp really gets hammered if you don't hit the entrance just right.....the two guard targets being on either side of it don't help as well.
I just stuck a piece of clear packing tape against the cracked area, it's pretty much an invisible fix. But what I also did is to take some of the tension off of the sides of the ramp (so it won't flex outwards) by taking a thin wire and stringing it across the top of the ramp - attached by the two screws that hold the metal ramp gaurds in place - and "pinching" the sides of the ramp in a bit - sort of like tensioning a bridge.

Seems to help.

^^^ hmmmm ^^^ forgot to mention ebay is not an option - no Paypal for me..................just by choice!

Nice playfield! No crotch-rot??

I have red LED's under the cab, a home-made job - they plug into an actual second outlet that someone installed inside the cab! I'll shoot some photos today.

I'd also like to see some mods, I already posted a link for a satellite toy that would look great but I'm not sure about the size so holding off on that (see earlier post for link). I may be able to add bullet hole graphix to targets today (snow day, no work - yippee!).

Man, this game kicks my ass, I have it raised HIGH and it screams along - anyone else have trouble with the ball jumping the right-hand wireform? Seems to be a common problem........

First two pics are my under cabinet lighting, it was made by the previous owner - a simple roll of LED's that he laid out on a foam board and spliced onto a 12v power supply which plugs into a plug he installed inside the machine.

ge1.jpg

ge2.jpg

Next two or three photos of my mirror blades, I have LED's in the pf as well, but I need to replace a bunch of them with non-ghosting because most of them are horribly ghosted........

ge3.jpg

ge4.jpg

ge7.jpg

Shot of the plug the guy installed.

ge5.jpg

Shot of the rear legs jacked-up.

ge6.jpg

Sure, I can shoot a better "perspective" shot - tune back tomorrow (Wed). Thought about that after posting these......

Here's some shots, with glass on.....sorry!!

gea2.jpg

gea3.jpg

Yeah, I kinda like the LED's but be SURE to get the non-ghosting ones - the blue running beneath the ramps is also nice - red would also compliment the dominant color scheme well.

Only bad thing about my blades is previous scratches before I became owner - although you really don't notice the blades *at all* when playing......other than that my pf is awesome aside from crotch-wear that is really touched-up well with black paint and protected with mylar.

Have a crack on bottom sides of middle ramp - wish they'd re-introduce that one! You can get repros of the left and right ramps......

Cmechanical that's an impressive score!!! This machine is brutal on me.......

Hey Tsskinne, I have the old Corgi Aston Martin that shoots the passenger outta the top! I guess circa 1970's - has the little bad guy figure - you have one of these or want one??

Also, you should probably scan your sticker sheet so you'll have it for reproductions - I'm ordering a sheet as well just to have - satellite on the ramp has some wear on the back left corner.

Here's some gold legs to add to your GoldenEye!

washingtondc.craigslist.org link

Yep, there ARE multiple examples of "through holes" that were left blank - I like that left-hand side lit up; funny, with LED's (someone put sooper brights in mine) the pf is BRIGHT!! When you get multiball going you can't even SEE anything 'cause it's so dang bright!

That target for Eject or Die is a clear one with a light behind it isn't it??

Someone put an LED in my helicopter pilot's seat.........

Score cards, yeah - never did find out how to correctly PRINT those!!

Thanks for the info, my helicopter bulb is blue - find it odd that that particular light and a spotlight next to it both flash istead of stay on all the time........surprised that they bothered lighting the copter, so I assumed it was a "mod."

-Nate

Awesome job Swinks, hopefully you'll hear soon about the test fitting!

Love the LED's and mirror blades PdxMonkey!!

Tsskinne, I also noticed that the targets tend to get "skewed" over time, I also had to get under the hood and straighten/tighten the stand-up target mounts........I don't think the lock target is angled at all?..........might want to get a "Pointed Stick" (there's a Python reference for ya!) and make a new screw hole............

Yup, that plastic becomes brittle, you should just go ahead and purchase "backups" while waiting for the next one to snap.......

Good job Doozie!

Ah, rebuilt flippers give the same peaceful feeling as a set of new wiper blades on the automobile!

This dish is actually thicker, and will take MORE of a beating than the original! Excellent job Swinks!!!

Just completed Q's pen last night! It was actually NOT a series of lucky hits...........After you initiate the mode, get to ball to the left flipper (either post-passing or shooting the left ramp) then shoot the ball after it has traveled down to the very tip of the left flipper - this will effectively launch it right towards the targets.

Gerry, yes, those are distinct possibilities (the damn slingshot action killing you) but if the pin gods smile on you, you somehow avoid all that!).
Now, let's see if I can do it again anytime soon.......

Guys, this turned out incredibly nice! It looks sooooo much better than the original, I think if you can hunt down some black screws that would also add to the complete look!

I do want to mention that everyone's magnet core is going to be different, mine is *really* mushroomed out, so I had to take a sharp knife and gently carve out the center of the dish (were only talking by a few millimeters.....) before it would seat itself over the magnet. Some people might not have to do as much "carving" but some of that *will* be involved.......I just don't want Swinks getting any attitudes from anyone who purchases it thinking it'll pop on in a couple of seconds - it's not a design flaw......

Also, that magnet core will also slide back and forth if you release some of the tension behind it via that huge nut that tightens the magnet to the mounting bracket. Pushing the magnet core outwards, away from the plastic disk sitting behind it will help the new satellite dish "bite" around the perimeter of the magnet like it should - my magnet core needed this as it was practically flush to the surface and didn't offer much surface for the disk to fit over.

Bottom line, you'll have to tinker just a bit to get it on, but it doesn't take long, and MAN does it look SO MUCH BETTER!!!

Swinks great job!!!

Anybody light up the backboard plastic with the sunrise on their GoldenEye using one of these?

http://www.cometpinball.com/6-3-V-Plug-Play-Strips-Comet-Pinball-p/6.3vsmdstrips.htm

I'm going to try it out.......

Ok, it's official - I suck at GoldenEye! Anyone have any pointers?? It seems that the right flipper is the way to go for a lot of shots (start mode, lock ramp, satellite dish shot) soooo, I've been working on my dead flipper passes when ball comes careening down the left side.
This table demands a lot of precision, if you're hitting the dish bank targets, or shootout/pen targets, the ball invariably gets slung around to an outlane via the slingshots.
I know you can backhand the lock ramp, but either way I generally miss that shot!!

ARrrrrgh!! Anyone figured out how to disable that damningly annoying "DataEast give the player Everything on the last ball" setting?!?!?!

-Nate

Tsskinne, well, I will just keep-a-tryin'!!! Interesting that you find you're using the left flipper more - I'll give it a shot - I didn't think the mode shots were "doable" from left-side??

Congrats on the beautiful backglass!

Anyone else have trouble with the ball hopping off the left ramp?! Drives me crazy - am trying to come up with a mod to keep the ball from jumping - may have to signal Swinks again!!

Hey Pdxmonkey - where did you fit the washers? Can you post a pic? Thanks!!!

Excellent - old one going up on the wall??

I vote for wall, framed with a digital clock face installed in one of the high score windows!!

I'd guess something is "closed" once the magnet contacts the ball?? Hmmmm, good question.

Just throwing this in here - I never noticed that the missions will change as the ball hits the pop bumpers!! If you don't like a particular mission, or want to save an easier one for when you only have one ball left, shoot the ball up to the pops and change the selection before hitting the mission trough............Maybe this is a "no DUH!" but I just noticed while watching my wife play last night (a very RARE thing indeed for her to play)!

-Nate

Speaking of copters, I'm finally tearing down GoldenEye, and will be re-painting the copter and the tank. I have found some GE photos to go by. Copter is easy, mostly black, tank I might add the three "barrels" attached to the back to make it look just a "little" like the one in the movie.

Here's pics for reference:

goldeneyetank3.3794_(resized).jpg

140319-bond-in-motion-helicopters_(resized).jpg

Here's the painted helicopter......

copter_(resized).jpg

I agree, this is exactly the type of vehicle that you'd find inside a bag of army men at your local "five and dime" shop, very poor.

I am also going to turn the tank around so it faces the player instead of facing away, which I thought was strange.

I was looking for a few cars to fit onto the playfield but couldn't locate anything for a cheap price. I'm sure a few people would be interested in a better copter.

Just made a Tiger eurocopters sticker for the sides of the helicopter with the correct logo. If anyone would be interested in the file for this, send me a pm and your email.

TigerCopter_(resized).jpg

Made-up a brand-new Target Lites Lock When Flashing Photoshop file if anyone needs a replacement. I made the background red instead of the dark berry-red color, but you can always change the color in PhotoShop.

-Nate

Edenecho, yeah, I wondered that same thing about the rules changing without notice........have not seen anything like that happen yet.....there are also "undocumented difficult combos?"......of course, haven't seen ANYTHING happen much since my satellite magnet dropped dead!!

-Nate

Ah, one of the riskiest shots indeed. I'm almost thinking it might be better to hit the Q targets by hitting the left slingshot with the right flipper and letting it get popped over to the target by chance!!!

I wonder if modifying the targets to include a slightly "bent" configuration on the right side would help the ball find it's way back into the center of the pf??? It would be easy to make a 3D printed version of these......hmmm................

Photos of my re-painted tank, took a bit of liberty with the color, the numbers are exactly the same as in the movie. Added a (is that a fuel tank?) behind the turret, simply a painted fuse supported by two cardboard matchsticks and painted, with decal applied.

The two tanks/barrels behind the tank I added as well, those are pieces of pencil painted and held onto the bottom with wire that I hot-glued.

tank1_(resized).jpg

tank2_(resized).jpg

Rondogg, how many strips did you use behind the sunset plastic? I've done the same thing, but only used one in the center. (Then my magnet crapped out, so I haven't played it since!!!).

I'll send you that ramp sticker file btw - now I got what you were asking about in your pm.

-Nate

LED's in GoldenEye.

Doing a tear-down, cleaning, etc since my satellite dish is on the fritz.

When I got the machine, someone put superbright LEDS in that flicker and don't turn all the way off, etc. I want to replace them with LED's - do I need to go with the more expensive non-ghosting, non-flicker variety to make sure they work "correctly" with this machine?

Also, anyone that has added some color, what did you use? Playfield is so mixed with color - was considering a light blue beneath those blue plastics and maybe red for casting red onto the lower and upper pf areas?? Also considering light-up red plastic posts for slings.

Also, does the satellite run off of 12V? Would be nice to add a bright LED 12v pad beneath the dish when it is activated.

Mike, I'll let you know if no one chimes in about the 12v source for the dish. Thanks for the input about the LED's - guess I'll just have to play around with it - the bulbs in there now are ghosting like crazy.........

rondogg, thanks for the recommendation on colors - that's a natural due to the title!

What's the secret to tightening loose screws that go directly into the plastic ramps?? The (sheet metal?) screw-types used to hold the metal protectors onto the sides of the ramps are not tightening- would one of those "toothed" washers do the job???

Would like to hear suggestions - in process of shopping/cleaning my pf.

Also, anyone use Titan rubbers? Looks like some blues and reds would look nice on the machine............

Was thinking about that, I would then have to swap out the sheet metal screws for a smallish hex-head screw..........

Thanks for the suggestion.

Ok, Pintucky said that he didn't have a problem with regular LED's anyone else use the more expensive non-ghosting/flickering/etc at a dollar a pop from Comet?? What I have in there now is a four LED - and they are too bright, and flicker ghost way too much.

Also, Pintucky mentioned the magnets "tiring out" where they are no longer strong enough to do the job. Anyone have this problem with the satellite dish? Mine stopped grabbing the ball, although it still turns and activates when it should - I'm going to replace the fuse as well to see if that's the problem.

-Nate

Thanks Rondogg, I'll peruse through the earlier posts..............

Ok, what am I missing?...........

The left-black rail running all the way up the edge of the pf - I've unscrewed everything visible, and there is STILL something holding the rail to the pf up near the left-hand top corner - could someone tell me what I'm missing???

There has got to be a couple of "hidden" screws still in place along there somewhere.......

Made some replacement "007" stickers for the bats. Only thing I would do differently next time is to cut the sticker so that the entire thing covers the top of the bat to make it look more "uniform" and harder to tell that it is a small rectangular sticker on there.

GEFlippers (resized).jpg

Jon M,

Yep, they could be printed onto a clear sticker - that would have been better.......live and learn. I spray cleared the top of the flippers/stickers so these won't be going anywhere - when they are actually in the game it won't be that noticeable. I'm shopping out the game now so will be slipping in some pics of little "embellishments" along the way. Also need to tackle a non-working satellite magnet - hoping it is just the fuse.

Reproduced some worn/bleached-out areas. My return lane plastics were worn off where the rockets trail was. I scanned the plastic and reproduced the graphic onto a clear sheet of laminate. I stuck the laminate piece on the underside with spray adhesive and painted over the backside with white paint to reduce the amount of light shining through that area - turned out good. I also touched up areas with black paint that had worn away along the edges to keep light from shining out from those small areas.

Made a sticker for the center of the apron, to replace the blue SEGA, left it in place underneath and just taped the new one on top.

Reproduced the corner stickers, which were badly faded, also the horizontal lines were not "sharp." Here's a before and after.

Painted the center of the gun handle brown and then sprayed clear over top to keep it from wearing off with use.

gunshooter (resized).jpg

BondApron2 (resized).jpg

BondApron1 (resized).jpg

Plastic1 (resized).jpg

Plastic2 (resized).jpg

My machine is in pieces at the moment. Could someone measure the amount of clearance between the top of the left wireform (at the end where the ball drops to inlane) and the top of the glass??

I'd really appreciate it - you can pm me.

-Nate

Whew! Just got GE put back together, now to troubleshoot my broken satellite magnet, I think i will try replacing the magnet first. Anyone have any advice?? when the ramp raises, the ball is not held by the magnet, the magnet never "energizes." I figure first try the magnet, then shell out for the board if the new magnet doesn't work.

Made some stickers for stand up targets and pops, and put my painted copter back in.

GECopter (resized).jpg

GEstickers (resized).jpg

GEPops (resized).jpg

GEstickers2 (resized).jpg

Mike, thanks. Yes it is easier to make stickers than you might think. I simply shot a photo of the guard on the pf and cropped it in PhotoShop. Resized it to fit on the target, printed out on laser printer and covered with mylar, cut and paste!

Or, you can find anything on the internet, and copy and edit and print - that's where I got the image for the pops.

Yep, I think it's time to shell out for the $400 magnet board!!!

Sure, have at it!! -Nate

Ok, can't find replacement for flipper power switch mounted on the inside of cabinet at the flipper buttons???

Part 180-5122-00. Can this be rebuilt using other parts? Or who is selling this that I've missed........thanks in advance.

-Nate

Anyone??

I've seen that and not sure why it is marked with that part number - that isn't the switch on the cabinet..........the one listed is a double contact and does not have the resistor installed on it???

-Nate

Found it for anyone that may need this part in the future - different part#, and listed as a Stern part:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=597

HELP please? ............. Need a favor from a GoldenEye owner.

I know it's a pain, but could someone open up their playfield and take a photo of the connections of the satellite dish beneath the pf?? I was going to replace my satellite magnet, when I saw that my connections look suspect, and I want to make sure they are correct before continuing and maybe perpetuating a problem.........

My new magnet has a connector plug on it, when I went to unplug the old magnet, there was no plug, one of the two black wires were soldered directly to the fuse, the other (I assume ground) was soldered to a metal tab nearby. The two blue wires that go to the magnet "plug" on the satellite board are also soldered there.

I'm assuming someone removed the plug and just soldered directly to the source. I'd like to see how the plug was originally tied in. My guess is that the two blue wires were on one end and the black wires plugged into them - somehow with the fuse in between that connection?

Here are some photos of how mine is set up: The yellow arrows are pointing to the satellite wires (black) and then the blue wires that go to the magnet board for the dish magnet.

I'd REALLY appreciate it, I've been trouble shooting the dish magnet and going crazy!

Sat4 (resized).jpg

Sat3 (resized).jpg

Sat2 (resized).jpg

Sat1 (resized).jpg

Jack, thanks a lot, mine looks just like yours - odd, I was expecting there to be the plastic plug on the end like mine........??? So it looks like how mine is connected is correct afterall.

Could someone else post a photo just so I can re-confirm? Maybe Twister uses the plug and GoldenEye does not.

Again, thanks Jack, appreciate it.

-Nate

Still troubleshooting, new magnet board, new magnet, no work. Magnet not energizing.

Cannot get satellite test to work either in diagnostics? Something weird going on. I get a diagnostic screen showing a box filled-in for "Satellite Magnet (Switch 23). there is another line called Satellite Home (Switch 20) with a box that is not filled-in. What does this even mean?! Trying to activate "run" on the menu makes nothing happen.

Also, on my switch test the ball trough switches are shown as activated (I think correct because the balls were sitting on the switches), and Satellite Magnet board is also showing as being "on." I think this should be showing as "off?"

Arrrgh. So frustrated. It also appeared that my "clear ball trough" command was not working, nothing happened after selecting that. I've traced the "switches" (I'm guessing these are not physical switches like I'm used to replacing?) on the schematics for "playfield switch wiring" to a corresponding plug location on the power driver board. Should I check those plugs for proper connections, burned areas? I'm not sure..........

Thanks,

Nate

sata2 (resized).jpg

sata1 (resized).jpg

Ok, checking the boards helps when you have issues - no? I/O board "fried!"

Weird because I never smelled/saw smoke, and machine is still functioning except for the magnets..........resistors literally "exploded" off the board, and transistors blackened, fuses burned at connect points, some pins from connectors black - wow.

There was no warning, the magnets just stopped working, but game was operating - GoldenEye owners beware..........I have requested a diagnosis on the board, I assume you can get a replacement for big $$$.

*SIGH*

Astropin: Thanks, I did send the board out to have it serviced. What a headache.........

Pintucky, sure will.

Yep, turns out my I/O board was toasty - Clive is working on it.

Will report back when it returns.

I am also thinking about selling this - if you know anyone interested. $2,500 firm. But it won't be "officially" on the market until my board is back from being repaired and I can make sure it is all working 100% like it used to for the past 3 years.

-Nate

"Now the only small issue is the tank trap door. It will open no problem, even in the coil menu, but will not close itself. Is there anything I can do for this?"

Check the height of your ramp. The trap door connects to the bottom of the ramp - and if there is not enough room for the metal arm to raise fully up to close the flap, it will not go down all the way.

Anyone replace the satellite magnet? It appears that there is no "+" "-" wires to worry about? Either wire can go to either end??

Any tips how to tighten those impossibly difficult "grips" to the flipper bat posts?? Have to have an allen wrench in one hand and a lock-wrench in the other - and keep the flipper from moving???!!!............thanks.

I use a credit card with a notch cut into it - but I'm talking about the "forwards/backwards" motion of the bat while attempting to tighten the hell outta the crimp joint whatever-you-call-it to hold the shaft. Playing last night after all my shopping, the right bat suddenly pointed down to the ball trough!!! Doh - not tight enough!!!

@ the streetzking

That sucks - my game is playing with the new board repaired, although I haven't tested out the satellite magnet which was not working before (due to the wonky flipper).

Sorry you had so much trouble - but I can understand wanting to get rid of it in frustration! I am probably selling mine, just didn't take to the gameplay. Seems pretty much like "lock two balls" shoot satellite, repeat...................limited shots to really go for..............

-Nate

Try to get someone local to come over and help you troubleshoot............might be a good way to learn also.

Some club members asked me to update on my magnets problem after my board was repaired - well, the board repair did NOT fix my problem, so my machine is lying in a pile after I smashed it to bits with a sledge hammer!!! (Kidding, but I wanted to!)

Sooooo, back to trouble shooting when I find some time.

Has anyone done the suggested magnet processor board update from Sega's #91 service bulletin? Would like some step-by-step to do this - thinking this may solve my problem with the magnets.

-Nate

Can someone measure their DC voltage at pins 1 and 2 of the magnet board beneath the satellite dish? It should be 50v but I am getting 25v on these - just want to confirm that my readings are correct.

Thanks,

N

Glad to see all this discussion about the magnet board. My magnets (both) suddenly stopped working altogether - even in testing.

No idea where to start - MPU board was recently gone over so I know it's nothing on that board. It looked like I wasn't getting the proper voltage to the magnet from what I can recall after troubleshooting months ago with no luck (approx. half necessary 50v I think)????

-Nate

Wow, glad to see all this magnet talk. Mine just suddenly stopped working and I have not been able to trace the cause. As someone suggested, anyone finding anything remotely wrong and fixing it might help others solve the puzzle as well.

No fun having such a huge "paperweight" called GoldenEye!!!

Thanks, I think there is one, and I have replaced it, but I am going to try another one and see what happens - yeah!!! I wish it was something simple like that!!!!!

-Nate

Beautiful backglass! Did you create that??

I changed it, wasn't that hard - entire back assembly comes out. Don't recall any problems.

OMG - I've been battling the magnets issue for months..........if you discover anything please let me know - mine just suddenly went DOA!!!!

I did get on his list, although I was able to buy a replacement board before they all sold out. so really stumped on this, I need to re-visit this winter as I'll be inside a lot more during cold weather. Thanks.

No, it's dead/dead. Both magnets at the dish and between the flippers, the magnet test doesn't even work. I need to dive back into it. It's really frustrating. Must be something bad along the voltage trail where the power simply runs through - definitely not getting the juice........

Glad I'm not the only one, I may overlooking the complex and ignoring the simple, so I need to get in there and push, wiggle and inspect!!!

Thanks, Nate

https://images.pinside.com/9/d1/85/9d18537ba9c78583a44193d3184b8b64cad611c8.jpg

Here's what I did for the pop bumper caps............

Sending out the help beacon again...........

My magnets are totally dead, I have - purchased the brand-new magnet board, installed new magnet.

The switch and ramp work, and the satellite dish turns as expected, but NO power to energize magnet, it is not possible to shoot the satellite.

I will check for 50v on J1 pin 1 and 2 I think?

The modification to move the pin 1 wire into slots 1 and 2 has been done - I think that is the white wire with orange stripe on it.

I am totally flailing - has anyone had to resurrect totally inoperable magnets? (the between the flipper mags are also not functioning).

When I try the magnet test, it doesn't do a thing, they do not activate, when I press the button inside the coin door to activate the magnet, it just makes a "ping" sound not unlike on your computer when you select a key that is not valid and you get that ping sound.

Sooooo frustrated! I recently had a chance to trade this pin for a pin on my want list that rarely shows up, and I can't trade it!

Thanks, Nate

Thanks! Could you specify exactly what was shorting out, and what you mean by "flasher circuit?" I have checked the fuses and they all appear to be working.

I would really like to find this solution - I'm sooooper depressed that my favorite game goes to someone else because I can't solve this issue and make a trade!

Appreciate you getting back to me.

Nate

Wow, I hope mine is something as simple as that - it's really frustrating, and I can't imagine that the problem is not solvable.

Keeping my fingers crossed, I know sort of what you are talking about, when I get some time I will go over all the flashers. Pics would help, thank you so much!!

Lithium and SkaIsntDead, (and I'm sure more owners!)

The only thing I have heard that I have yet to check about the magnets being DOA is that the flashers may be causing a short somewhere.

I have had basically a very expensive space waster sitting unused because the GoldenEye magnet curse has yet to be broken by myself. I have the brand-new magnet board installed, replaced the satellite magnet, checked the fuses, checked for the bulletin fixes - everything is fine.

My test for the magnets - it does nothing. It's like the power is not going to the magnets to activate. My game was playing fine, then suddenly, no magnet action, and let's face it, without the satellite dish, this game isn't worth playing.

Soooooo frustrating! Does anyone else have ideas for a fix??

Nate

Lithium, how do you check the resistance across the magnets?? Forgot to ask.

@Lithium, thanks for the information.

I do have the new board with the LED's installed, I've tried just about everything!!

It appears that somehow, there is no power getting to the magnets, the magnets do not operate in test mode, etc. Driving me crazy!

I will have to look again at the board, but I think I remember that the LED's did not light up - soooooooo I think there are some voltages that can be measured coming off of the PCB board - I recall checking that and they seemed to check out.

*Sigh* I am hoping that someone has this same problem and will post their amazing discovery and fix!!

Nate

Thanks Lithium, it really is aggravating. I have checked the fuses, not blown, not sure if I tried an alternate so I will also go that route.......I did up the fuse to 4A also. The service manual was followed for that fix, if memory serves, it had something with switching a wire on the plug that goes into the MPU..........

If you ever travel south to Maryland, look me up!! haha.

Will report back, once I get a chance to pull the pf and check out the LED's.

-Nate

I did a tear-down and rebuild, I recall that trap door being really "finicky" - be sure the spacers are correct on the left ramp, any little bit of "bend" or "play" in that ramp will cause the door to not settle nice and flat.

I don't think I ever did get mine really flush, but just get it flat enough so that it allows the ball to travel over it.

-N