(Topic ID: 243167)

Jacks open project (finished)

By Silverstreak02

4 years ago


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  • Latest reply 11 months ago by DanMarino
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#1 4 years ago

I purchased a player quality Jacks Open last fall. The intent was to clean it up, get it working and just enjoy it. That didn’t work. The ball kept getting stuck in the inserts, the targets snapped and I wasn’t able to handle the appearance of the planking. I decided to fix the wood on the cabinet followed by a repaint and to strip the playfield, fill the inserts, repaint everything followed by decals and auto clear.

Two months ago I started on the playfield and today I decided to start sharing my progress. The inserts have been filled, everything has been airbrushed and I have applied several coats of clear. Certainly not perfect, but a good start. I will apply decals in the next few weeks before more clear and will then move on to the cabinet. Before pictures.

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#2 4 years ago

A picture of the playfield with everything removed

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#4 4 years ago

Inserts filled, everything airbrushed and several coats of clear.

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#5 4 years ago

For those of us that like a shine

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1 week later
#6 4 years ago

I finished creating files for my decals today. I made twice the amount I need and have a total of seven pages. I printed one of the pages for the cards and tried them for size on the straight flush cards. They are just paper and a little crooked, but show the size and a glimpse of how it will look.

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2 weeks later
#7 4 years ago

I decided to practice with the decal setting solution on some of my old decals from Cross Town. I wanted to see how well the decals stuck with the solution as well as how well they would stand up to being wiped down with Naptha. I’m happy to say they stuck well and weren’t affected when wiped with the Naptha. My next step is to get the seven sheets printed.

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#8 4 years ago

I went to Staples and got the water slide decals printed. They did a great job. Applying them should keep me busy for awhile.

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#10 4 years ago

I started putting a few decals on. This is going to take awhile.

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#11 4 years ago

I ran into a problem when applying the circle decals. The decal wouldn’t release from the backing paper no matter how long I left it in the water. I looked closely and noticed most of the page was dull looking with just the upper corner that was shiny. I removed the one circle that was in the shiny section and it applied normally. It appears the paper was made incorrectly. This paper is about three years old and I hope it doesn’t expire.

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#12 4 years ago

I found another sheet just like the other one. I need to order more paper. Where can I get some?

#14 4 years ago

I received new paper and printed new decals. I not sure if all of the first batch is bad, but didn’t want to take a chance. I also printed new certificates for the Jacks Open and Cross Town.

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#15 4 years ago

I decided to replace the decals I installed earlier. Wow those things are really on there. The only thing that worked was 320 grit sandpaper and even then it took awhile. I hate going backwards, but the old paper worried me.

#16 4 years ago

I replaced all the decals from the first patch and started over. I just finished the cluster of suits on the right side and will start the left when I can see straight. Decals are easy, but time consuming.
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1 week later
#17 4 years ago

I finally finished the cluster of suits on the left side and the decals on all of the cards.

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#18 4 years ago

I added the Royal Flush decal tonight. It’s pretty difficult since I have to apply one letter at a time. It came out good enough. I wish I could have done white, but I can’t print that color. For grins I counted all the decals I applied so far and came up with 167. I’ll think twice before I do this again.

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#20 4 years ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

For the future, on small items like this one, print the whole thing on a white decal, then you could have had the lettering in white since it would simply NOT print for that color. Just a thought for the next time you WILL do this again.

Thanks for the idea, maybe next time.

#21 4 years ago

After 195 decals I finally have them all applied. My next step is to put a couple coats of clear on it, but the weather is difficult this time of year. I’ll keep an eye on it for an opportunity. While I wait I’ll start on the cabinet. It will get a full paint with pinball pimp stencils. This is what it looks like today.

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#23 4 years ago

The back box is next. I removed the mechanism and all the brackets to get it ready for repair and paint. It’s not in great shape, but not bad either. I’ll need to do some wood repair and bondo work first. Here are some before pictures.

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#25 4 years ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

Yeah, you probably have like 160% humidity down there this time of year. Nice work so far.

Thanks for the nice comment. I’ll watch the weather and will wait for the low 80’s with mid 70’s humidity. That’s the best I can hope for this time of year and it will be a small window of opportunity in the evening. As it gets cooler the humidity goes up.

#26 4 years ago

I stripped the paint and then sanded it smooth. I fixed the wood issues and then applied bondo with the fiberglass strands. Once I was sure everything was fixed and smooth I put on my first coat of primer. Not a surprise but the primer highlighted issues I didn’t see before. More bondo is next after the primer dries.

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#27 4 years ago

The weather isn’t good for painting so I decided to work on replacing the nine drop targets. 18 switches, 3 coils and 6 screws later and I have it out. I must say it is a mechanical marvel. It looks like a challenge. Wish me luck.

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#28 4 years ago

I took advantage of some good weather this morning. I sprayed a coat of primer and the first coat of Dover White. I’ll need to fix one run and a couple of pinholes, but overall not bad.

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#30 4 years ago
Quoted from phototamer:

Good luck with the rest of the restoration , Looking good so far .. I am in the middle of my second complete playfield resto , a Gottlieb Surf champ ( https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/surf-champ-slow-playfield-restoration#post-4720357 ) and I can tell you , that your most valuable weapon is patience !
A small detail I noticed in your photos. The Gottlieb logo on the top , the area where the letters manuf. by and the date are printed should be pure white.
Since your are restoring all the white areas back to real white , this area should be looked after too.

Early on I decided to leave the logo alone since it was in good shape. After seeing the color difference I wish I had gone ahead and done it.

#31 4 years ago

I decided to replace the drop targets today. After looking at it for awhile I decided to take off the side closest to the targets and change them from that side. After removing the panel I discovered the targets don’t fit through the hole for removal purposes. I went to Harbor Freight and bought a cutoff wheel. I created a slot by the top of the frame that allowed me to easily remove the targets. After that the job was simple. The new targets look soo much better.

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#35 4 years ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

Starting around 1979, Gottlieb started making slots in the drop target plates. This was to make changing broken targets much easier.
I've had to use the cutoff wheel too on a Pin Up and a Jack In The Box drop target assemblies to make the slots just like you did. It definitely makes easy for future drop target repairs/replacement. Now the only that would make it even easier is it the drop target units were unpluggable.

I watched a video of someone replacing drop targets on an assembly that already had the cutouts. It looked like a great idea and justified another tool so I was in. I wish there was a connector for all the switches it would make life easier. I may cut the wires and butt splice them later. That will allow me to install, clean and adjust all the switches on my bench.

#36 4 years ago
Quoted from Daditude:

It is really coming along nicely.

Thanks

#39 4 years ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

I would do them 1 wire at a time and install molex connectors, like HEP does on his builds. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18
hard part of that is how they run the wires sometimes doesn't make it easy.

I’m not sure they are really necessary, but I like the idea. I ordered a package of 2 pin connectors and a 6 pin connector. Thanks for helping to spend my money.

#40 4 years ago

1. I painted the back box door with some silver “hammered” paint.
2. I installed some brads in the square piece that is under the back box, fixed all the dings with bondo and then applied a couple coats of primer and Dover White paint.
3. The back box was more of a challenge, but it also got more bondo as well as primer and paint.

With the last coat of Dover White painting is done for now. I’m waiting on the connectors for the targets and have started to clean some of the main cabinet parts. I’ll start disassembling it soon.

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1 week later
#41 4 years ago

I installed the Molex connectors today on the target bank. I’m still not sure it was necessary or worth the time and expense. Of course my opinion will change if I ever need to remove the bank again. I know it was the right thing to do and I learned something. Sort of what the hobby is about.

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#42 4 years ago

I finished installing the Molex connectors on the bottom of the play field. I wish I had used two 6 pin connectors instead of one 6 pin and three 2 pin connectors. It would have been cleaner. Live and learn. It will still work.

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3 weeks later
#43 4 years ago

The main cabinet is next. I need to replace the bottom and fix several areas of peeling wood. This is how it started.

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1 week later
#44 4 years ago

I was able to strip off most of the paint and then sanded the rest. After four tries at filling all the holes and gouges with bondo I’m ready for the first coat of primer. The love bugs are swarming now so I’m not sure if I’ll paint or not. I can always move on to replacing the bottom board.

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2 weeks later
#46 4 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Any progress with this?

Yes
I replaced the bottom panel on the cabinet and applied a couple coats of primer. That exposed more dents and imperfections so I went back to bondo and sanding again. After several sessions I decided good enough and put a couple coats of Dover white on it. I was hoping to be done at that point, but when starting another can the first spray had a bunch of grit in it. Of course it all went on the front of the cabinet. Looks like I’ll be sanding again. I have enough paint for one more coat. Fingers crossed. The weather is starting to change. I hope to be able to get back to the playfield soon.

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#47 4 years ago

My last coat of Dover White

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#48 4 years ago

Tomorrow this gets a coat of clear to lock down the decals. Fingers crossed.

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#49 4 years ago

This is where I spray. The first mist coat is down.

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#50 4 years ago

I sprayed another mist coat and two medium coats. I started to run out on the second coat so I have some dry areas and a little orange peel. I’m not worried since I plan to sand and then apply the last coat in the next few days.

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#52 4 years ago

I received my spatter tool today. I bought it on Amazon. I’m not sure what type of paint to use and of course haven’t done it before.

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#53 4 years ago

I sprayed the last coat of clear on the playfield. I’ll let it cure for a few weeks before I do the final sand and polish. Pretty happy with the results so far.

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#54 4 years ago

I tried my hand at speckling tonight. After practicing for awhile I did most of the cabinet and head. As usual I’m about 90%. With the exception of being a little heavy in a couple of spots I’m OK with it. Naturally I had a major drip on the side of the head that is a real bummer. I waited for or it to dry and then scrapped it off with a plastic razor blade. That was my second mistake. Although the black was dry enough to scrape it also softened the white. Now I have a bare spot. I’m bummed about that and will need to find a way to fix it. Here are the pictures of the big drip.

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#55 4 years ago

I repainted the side of the back box that had the big blob on it. I also added the splatter. Next is to order a stencil set from pinball pimp.

#57 4 years ago
Quoted from phototamer:

While a restoration is going on we tend to look for imperfections with a magnifying glass , my self included ! in the end no one notices them great work and attention to detail !

Thanks
Sometimes I wonder if anyone is reading this.

#58 4 years ago

The lower apron is very faded and won’t look right next to the repainted playfield. I’ll strip and put a fresh coat of white on it. I’ll paint the upper piece as well. This is what the apron looks like now.

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#60 4 years ago

I plan to buy a decal, but would prefer to paint. Does someone sell stencils for the apron?

#63 4 years ago

Striped, primed and painted.

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#64 4 years ago

Looks like I forgot a piece. Bummer, but I still have enough stripper, primer and paint. It’s just a time thing.

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#65 4 years ago

I ordered an apron decal from pinball rescue and cabinet stencils from pinball pimp. It will take a few weeks for the decal since it is coming from Australia. I’ll pick up the stencils this Wednesday. If the weather cooperates I can paint one of the colors next weekend.

#66 4 years ago

I placed another order with Steve Young today. I found some of my receipts and was shocked to discover I’ve spent a little over $1900 so far. Next time I’ll throw out the receipts.

#67 4 years ago

I sprayed clear on the side rails and tilt board. I also received my order from PBR and stencils from Pinball Pimp.

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1 week later
#68 4 years ago

I sprayed red on the back box today. It’s nice to finally see some color.

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#69 4 years ago

I’m not a happy camper. I ran into problems with using the stencils today. I noticed they are slightly longer and wider than the cabinet. This wasn’t an issue with the long sides and they have location marks on them. The front gave me the most trouble. There aren’t any reference marks on them so I decided to even the stencil left and right and use the top edge as a starting point. The stencil went down fine then I noticed the design would be hidden behind the door and the stencil needed to be raised up. I tried to remove it, but of course I destroyed it in the process. My fault for not knowing I guess. To top it off my peel on the hearts wasn’t very clean. I’m not sure how to fix that. I think I need to take a deep breath and maybe have a beer.

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#71 4 years ago

I bought a new stencil from Pinball Pimp today for the front of the cabinet. I adjusted the stencil to align with the bottom of the cabinet instead of the top. I gained a little, but it’s still not what I like. I sprayed the red. It is what it is.

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#72 4 years ago

Bye the way I don’t think there is anything wrong with the stencil. I looked at a few pictures and realized this is the way they were from Gottlieb. Sometimes I’m too picky.

#73 4 years ago

I finally applied my water slide decal to the top apron. Small touch, but I like it.

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1 week later
#74 4 years ago

I painted black on the sides of the back box today. As usual I learned a couple lessons. The first is to not trust what the can says is inside. I sprayed two lights coats of gloss black (according to the can) Before I realized it wasn’t shiny. It was very dull light Matt black. I pulled out a second can that also said gloss black and it was as expected. Unfortunately after drying the finish is a little wrinkled. Next time I’ll test the can for color and finish first. Really how often has this ever happened? The second can produced a nice gloss finish on the other side.
The second lesson was using lacquer thinner to clean up a tiny spot of black that I got in the wrong place. It removed the black as expected, but also dulled the finish of the red.

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#75 4 years ago

I painted the black on the front of the back box. It’s done while I decide what if anything I’ll do to fix the rough finish on the black for the left side.

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#77 4 years ago

One more piece to the puzzle.

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#78 4 years ago

The black is going on.

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#79 4 years ago

The black is on the sides. I’ll paint the black on the front tomorrow. I can’t wait to stop painting. It was fun at first. Now not so much.

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#80 4 years ago

I painted black on the front and am finally done with the stencils. I may go back later and try to correct a few mistakes, but for now the cabinet painting is done.

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#82 4 years ago

One more

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#83 4 years ago

I fixed the heart on the right side of the cabinet today. I applied some frisket over the heart and traced the outline with an exacto knife. A few light coats of red later and it looks pretty good.

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1 week later
#85 4 years ago

Now that the cabinet paint work is done I started to clean and get the other parts ready for assembly. After working on the legs for awhile I realized they were never going to complement the cabinet. There were too many issues such as plating lose, rust and paint that I need to remove. So another call to Steve Young and a set of new legs are on order. The cost of this project keeps climbing.

#87 4 years ago

Only an hour of work tonight, but installing the legs and back box made me a happy camper.

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1 week later
#91 4 years ago

I’ve been spending my time polishing and installing the metal parts that go into the cabinet. I’m pleased with the shine on some of the parts particularly the chime unit. While I really want to move onto the playfield I’m going to focus on the coin door next.

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#92 4 years ago

I wasn’t sure how far I wanted to go with the coin door. Truth is without coin mechanisms all that crap attached to the inside of the door is useless and I don’t have coin mechs. I started with the idea of separating the door from the frame and one thing led to another. It looks like I’m all in. It scares me.

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1 week later
#94 4 years ago

I polished a few of the visible pieces and painted the brackets on the inside of the door. The painting was pretty straight forward. The polishing is a different story. Lots of work there.
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#95 4 years ago

It would look so much cleaner if I left it like this.

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#96 4 years ago

I finished the coin door.

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#97 4 years ago

The door is back in the cabinet. It even looks good from this angle.

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#98 4 years ago

From the front

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#100 4 years ago
Quoted from Playdium:

Keeping track of labor hours? I did on a few projects and then got dizzy when I tallied everything up. Beautiful work by the way.

I don’t keep track of the hours. I’m sure it’s out of control. For me this is just a hobby. If I didn’t enjoy the process I wouldn’t do it. Financially this level Of restoration doesn’t make sense.

#101 4 years ago

I polished the lock down bar today. I do like shiny.

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#102 4 years ago

I’m going to start the bottom relay board next. I plan to clean everything, replace the labels And cord as well as the board. I need to fix a few wire issues to. Does anyone have a good procedure for getting rid of the smell?

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#105 4 years ago

I’ve been working on the bottom board. I cleaned the harness with simple green and a toothbrush. I followed that with a rinse from the garden hose and then blew it dry with a leaf blower. I filed all the contacts and then moved everything to a new board. I still need to make a few more labels and remove a few components. I don’t see the need for the bounce switch, electrical outlet and the coin counter. The first two are pretty straight forward, but I need to figure out how the coin counter switch was wired. I also need to decide if I want to replace the on/off switch with a DPST switch with a new cord or just replace the cord as it is currently wired.

As a side note the smell is about 80% gone.

The lesson I learned is not to use a leaf blower on any of the switch stacks that use fish paper. The high speed air coupled with water caused the fish paper to separate and blow out of the stack. I ordered new fish paper from PBR and will replace it next week.

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#107 4 years ago

With the exception of replacing some fish paper the bottom board is done.

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#108 4 years ago

Next is the relay board in the back box. I’ll need to paint the front white to brighten things some. I inspected everything on the back and found it needs a complete going over. Everything that rotates is sticky, all switches need cleaning, most light sockets are corroded and a few wires are loose or disconnected. This should give me something to do for awhile.

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#110 4 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Looking great! I've got restoring a nice EM on my Pinball bucket list.

Thanks. You should give it a go. It’s not too difficult and is very rewarding to complete each task.

#111 4 years ago

I replaced the fish paper on the score motor switches. I messed up 14 of them during the cleaning process. I hope I don’t make that mistake again. Getting the switch stacks apart to replace the fish paper is a real pain.

#112 4 years ago

I painted the front of the back box relay board white to reflect the light better. In the process of moving it around a couple areas of the particle board came apart and is being glued.

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#113 4 years ago

My last order from PBR included this light bulb installation tool. It’s the best $3 I’ve spent in awhile. I can’t believe I didn’t buy it sooner.

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#115 4 years ago

A small milestone tonight. I installed the bottom relay panel in the cabinet.

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#116 4 years ago

I got the housing for the score reels all shined up.

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#117 4 years ago

I took all four score reels apart for a good cleaning, fixed a few broken wires and adjusted the switches. They move smoothly now. I wanted to put decals on the reels to cover up the yellow plastic, but I wasn’t able to connect with the guy that sells the decals. In an effort to move forward I reinstalled everything. The credit unit is next.

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#119 4 years ago
Quoted from Bax1:

what are you using for shining everything up? looks awesome!!!

A combo of the buffer and Meguiars wax.

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#120 4 years ago

I ‘m working on the credit unit now. The parts are in the ultrasonic cleaner and I shined up the frame.

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#121 4 years ago

Lots of pieces. Hopefully I can get it put together correctly.

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#123 4 years ago

I reassembled the credit unit and installed it back on the board. It works very crisp now. Worth the effort.
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#125 4 years ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

I knew you could do it!

Thanks JR

#127 4 years ago

This thing is next. It needs a good cleaning and is very sluggish. It’s gummed up somewhere.

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#129 4 years ago

Cleaned up and ready for reassembly.

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#130 4 years ago

No extra pieces and it is very snappy now. Big difference in how it operates.

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#132 4 years ago
Quoted from Silverstreak02:

My last order from PBR included this light bulb installation tool. It’s the best $3 I’ve spent in awhile. I can’t believe I didn’t buy it sooner.[quoted image]

I started installing bulbs in the back box tonight with my new tool. I discovered the bulb is too loose in the tool and gets inserted too far into it. Ultimately this prevented me from getting the new bulbs locked in the light socket. I had to go back to using my modified rubber cork. It works great, but doesn’t look as nice as the new one. Oh well.

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#135 4 years ago

Thanks for the additional ideas for a bulb replacement tool. I’ll look into those for next time. I didn’t say next time did I?

#136 4 years ago

I finished the relay board by replacing 11 light sockets and cleaning all the switches and the one miniature stepper on the relay bracket. The stepper was a challenge to get right, but it is smooth and snappy now. I brought it in the house tonight and installed it in the backbox. Next I want to put triple thick on the glass and then move on to the playfield.

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#137 4 years ago

I applied triple thick to the Backglass. It’s in pretty good shape. It has a few small flakes and a discolored area from the foam behind it. Not very noticeable to most folks, but it does bother me. A BG Resto glass may be in my future.

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#138 4 years ago

I did the sanding and buffing thing to the playfield. I’m happy with it.

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#140 4 years ago
Quoted from Playdium:

Did you clear over the inserts?

I filled the inserts several times with auto clear. Everything is very smooth and flat.

#142 4 years ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

That playfield looks like there's a sheet of glass on it!

Thanks that wasn’t the plan, but just how it worked out.

#143 4 years ago

Another small but satisfying step. I installed the backglass.
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#148 4 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

How many cans of Spray Max did you use to get the playfield done? the thickness of the clear on yours is about where I'd like to be on my Firepower project.

I used eight cans over the course of many months. I would spray a color or two and then lock it down with a can before proceeding to the next color or decals. Keep in mind I sanded between every coat so there is no way to know how thick it really is.

#150 4 years ago
Quoted from Playdium:

I didn't know aeroseal can be used to get such a quality effect.

Spraymax is a great product. I think careful sanding between coats and letting it sit for a few months before final sand and buff helps regardless of the product used. Try it the next time you do a restore.

#151 4 years ago

On my tilt board there is a little hook in the middle just under the wire harness. Does anyone know what it is for?

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#154 4 years ago

It’s interesting that some tasks create a sense of satisfaction for very little effort. An example is installing the legs on the cabinet or sliding in the back glass. Then there are others that I spend three nights on and all I can say is it’s done (ho hum). With that said I decided to ditch the original SPST on/off switch in favor of a DPST that I bought at ACE. Since the switch is taller than the original I needed to make a spacer so I can still use the original cover. By the time I made the spacer routed the new cord and tied it up I spent three nights on it. I’m happy with the results, but really.

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#155 4 years ago

I went the easy satisfaction route tonight. Although the playfield isn’t ready I did a power test on the bottom relay board and back box. After plugging in my new cord I hit the on switch. The lights in the back box came on and the score motor made a revolution. Feeling good about the situation I hit the start switch. The score motor ran briefly and all four score reels reset to zero. So far so good.

0EEA91D6-262D-49F3-953F-D9F2DD9E53C0 (resized).jpeg0EEA91D6-262D-49F3-953F-D9F2DD9E53C0 (resized).jpeg
#158 4 years ago
Quoted from jasonspoint28:

That Jacks Open looks amazing! Well done sir! What is the DPST switch for?

It’s the on/off switch for the game.

#159 4 years ago
Quoted from Playdium:

That's a great feeling isn't it? But why the baking soda?

Originally the game had that antique smell. After cleaning and painting it is 90% gone. The baking soda is a precaution in case it starts to smell old again.

#162 4 years ago
Quoted from phototamer:

On the contrary .. I just love that antique smell . It takes me back to my old pinball playing days

I guess your not married. My wife doesn’t like the smell. You know the rest.

#163 4 years ago
Quoted from Playdium:

So when you do a small touch up/repaint on the play field, are you clear coating just that small area, or are you spraying the entire play field?

I spray one or more colors and then clear the entire playfield.

#164 4 years ago

It’s fun time. I started to populate the playfield.

CED7DE98-DFFF-4B0D-9E2D-264D6A8E6223 (resized).jpegCED7DE98-DFFF-4B0D-9E2D-264D6A8E6223 (resized).jpeg
#165 4 years ago

Shiny stuff
DA037EC3-7A76-498B-BDBA-2EDCAF82BF8F (resized).jpegDA037EC3-7A76-498B-BDBA-2EDCAF82BF8F (resized).jpeg

#168 4 years ago
Quoted from jasonspoint28:

Right, I get that, but why would you need to ditch the SPST in favor of a DPST?

A couple of reasons. The switch is as old as the cord so I don’t trust either one. They both had to be changed. I went with a DPST since it can shutoff and isolate both legs of power from the game. Might be overkill.

#170 4 years ago
Quoted from Murphdom:

Out of curiosity what do you use for metal polish? I’ve tried three or four different kinds. I’m pretty sure you could use your chime box as a mirror. I’m always looking to try new things.

When cleaning/polishing parts I use an ultrasonic cleaner, tumbler and sometimes my buffing wheel. The chimes got sanded starting with 400 grit working my way to 2000. I then buffed it on my buffer. I also like to use Mothers mag polish. I used that on the frame of the chime unit (like J.R. said)

#172 4 years ago

More shiny. I’ll put the top of the apron on later.

59E147AB-8541-4D8F-B520-9319C4BE9409 (resized).jpeg59E147AB-8541-4D8F-B520-9319C4BE9409 (resized).jpegC8B6E6FF-A9D4-4C6C-90F8-FA1DCDD8A205 (resized).jpegC8B6E6FF-A9D4-4C6C-90F8-FA1DCDD8A205 (resized).jpeg
#174 4 years ago

I started working on the bottom of the playfield. It’s been a long time since I’ve seen it. More there than I remembered.

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1 week later
#176 4 years ago

I applied my new decal on the lower apron today. It looks much better than the old faded apron

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#177 4 years ago

It’s too bad this will be hidden.
04D0347D-950E-42A9-A2E9-D799578164A2 (resized).jpeg04D0347D-950E-42A9-A2E9-D799578164A2 (resized).jpeg

#178 4 years ago

Here’s a few pictures. I’ll post more tomorrow.
0B117697-6C95-4035-8EB8-EFB4BC1A3174 (resized).jpeg0B117697-6C95-4035-8EB8-EFB4BC1A3174 (resized).jpeg8D766DA0-41F3-4D3E-883E-0473546652EB (resized).jpeg8D766DA0-41F3-4D3E-883E-0473546652EB (resized).jpeg
C2237459-E523-4BA5-BF97-455D42709475 (resized).jpegC2237459-E523-4BA5-BF97-455D42709475 (resized).jpegEA4068A3-F955-4534-8601-3E7621FED6D6 (resized).jpegEA4068A3-F955-4534-8601-3E7621FED6D6 (resized).jpegF25973EB-8E70-4B7C-9908-8EDDC032B37C (resized).jpegF25973EB-8E70-4B7C-9908-8EDDC032B37C (resized).jpeg

C9815141-5E76-49BE-B448-C1C0E6968B84 (resized).jpegC9815141-5E76-49BE-B448-C1C0E6968B84 (resized).jpeg
#180 4 years ago

The restoration is complete so I’m going to call this done. I have some scoring issues to work through and will start a separate thread for that. Overall this was a fun project. It was my third and I keep building on my abilities. The learning part is what keeps me interested. Not sure what I’ll do next. Thanks to everyone that posted encouraging words. It keeps me going when things get frustrating.

2 weeks later
#182 4 years ago

Update:
I started this project knowing one function wasn't working correctly. The ball didn't always return to the shooter lane. Rather frustrating when it happened during a good game. After the restoration I still had this issue and five additional ones. I'm not sure why I was surprised. One by one I found contacts that looked good, but weren't making contact, wires shorted from one switch stack to another, a bad coil and I can't remember the rest. I'm happy to report all of that is resolved and everything works. I'm surprised on the ball action around the pop bumpers and the strength of the flippers. They worked before, but are much stronger now. The ball no longer can get stuck in cupped inserts and rolls smoothly over the playfield. I feel the results were worth the effort. To all the lurkers I say grab an old EM and give it a go. If I can do it you can.

#183 4 years ago

Jacks Open has finally joined Cross Town and Space Mission.

3C0976E1-2EC0-4D9B-AEA5-61A814991363 (resized).jpeg3C0976E1-2EC0-4D9B-AEA5-61A814991363 (resized).jpeg9DFE01CE-AD80-42FF-B5BA-261BF59CE0CE (resized).jpeg9DFE01CE-AD80-42FF-B5BA-261BF59CE0CE (resized).jpegA220D342-468D-4100-8E88-973A8A0A2B34 (resized).jpegA220D342-468D-4100-8E88-973A8A0A2B34 (resized).jpegAC3E19E5-7AE0-4B48-B1C3-C38393738522 (resized).jpegAC3E19E5-7AE0-4B48-B1C3-C38393738522 (resized).jpeg
#185 4 years ago

I won my first free game tonight. I was a little surprised when I heard the knocker.

3C48BC01-8E06-4ACF-8010-4514A476AAA5 (resized).jpeg3C48BC01-8E06-4ACF-8010-4514A476AAA5 (resized).jpeg
2 weeks later
#186 3 years ago

Tonight I won my first free game on special. I got very close several times, but finally got it tonight. It’s a tough game in that you can get so close.

D5991289-5CD0-4475-9E7F-E7108097A131 (resized).jpegD5991289-5CD0-4475-9E7F-E7108097A131 (resized).jpeg
#187 3 years ago

I’m getting better. Three free games on points and two more on special. 217,060 points.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
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