I purchased a player quality Jacks Open last fall. The intent was to clean it up, get it working and just enjoy it. That didn’t work. The ball kept getting stuck in the inserts, the targets snapped and I wasn’t able to handle the appearance of the planking. I decided to fix the wood on the cabinet followed by a repaint and to strip the playfield, fill the inserts, repaint everything followed by decals and auto clear.

Two months ago I started on the playfield and today I decided to start sharing my progress. The inserts have been filled, everything has been airbrushed and I have applied several coats of clear. Certainly not perfect, but a good start. I will apply decals in the next few weeks before more clear and will then move on to the cabinet. Before pictures.

11AB3601-0AF9-4AE0-8516-2F7271A914E5 (resized).jpeg52AECB78-4E7F-4B19-90AD-E65C823BB3C1 (resized).jpeg6D7D8F18-9722-4DC5-9784-C41944B55CAD (resized).jpeg8FFF08BF-2CB8-48FA-B5B2-2C06A6740264 (resized).jpeg

A picture of the playfield with everything removed

A7BD0712-1CC3-4676-9A1F-63AC02C29869 (resized).jpeg

Inserts filled, everything airbrushed and several coats of clear.

ABDECC23-1B0E-47ED-B4B7-54F1A7357178 (resized).jpeg

For those of us that like a shine

42D960A3-46AA-4E0B-B816-BA1D38F9C649 (resized).jpeg

I finished creating files for my decals today. I made twice the amount I need and have a total of seven pages. I printed one of the pages for the cards and tried them for size on the straight flush cards. They are just paper and a little crooked, but show the size and a glimpse of how it will look.

1BC02B41-D0C8-4FA9-B9A9-FD4547D6205C (resized).jpeg

I decided to practice with the decal setting solution on some of my old decals from Cross Town. I wanted to see how well the decals stuck with the solution as well as how well they would stand up to being wiped down with Naptha. I’m happy to say they stuck well and weren’t affected when wiped with the Naptha. My next step is to get the seven sheets printed.

EF3F1B61-02A6-44F7-BAE5-89F8D91374F4 (resized).jpeg

I went to Staples and got the water slide decals printed. They did a great job. Applying them should keep me busy for awhile.

B27E5026-24C5-42B8-8CC1-1F4310D3C9DE (resized).jpeg

I started putting a few decals on. This is going to take awhile.

11069FB8-3EAB-4FDE-8CC6-005205061624 (resized).jpeg

48E0C040-3984-486E-BC9A-2C818F6DE044 (resized).jpeg

I ran into a problem when applying the circle decals. The decal wouldn’t release from the backing paper no matter how long I left it in the water. I looked closely and noticed most of the page was dull looking with just the upper corner that was shiny. I removed the one circle that was in the shiny section and it applied normally. It appears the paper was made incorrectly. This paper is about three years old and I hope it doesn’t expire.

1C18761A-80AE-4F3C-A6C4-329FC8E0F472 (resized).jpeg

I found another sheet just like the other one. I need to order more paper. Where can I get some?

I received new paper and printed new decals. I not sure if all of the first batch is bad, but didn’t want to take a chance. I also printed new certificates for the Jacks Open and Cross Town.

2D24DCD6-DDB7-4AFD-A183-6444E23DDCD6 (resized).jpeg

I decided to replace the decals I installed earlier. Wow those things are really on there. The only thing that worked was 320 grit sandpaper and even then it took awhile. I hate going backwards, but the old paper worried me.

I replaced all the decals from the first patch and started over. I just finished the cluster of suits on the right side and will start the left when I can see straight. Decals are easy, but time consuming.
866A9477-4210-496F-945E-916B7FEC638D (resized).jpeg

I finally finished the cluster of suits on the left side and the decals on all of the cards.

D3AD2AEF-E442-4D82-A858-FDC81C514630 (resized).jpeg

I added the Royal Flush decal tonight. It’s pretty difficult since I have to apply one letter at a time. It came out good enough. I wish I could have done white, but I can’t print that color. For grins I counted all the decals I applied so far and came up with 167. I’ll think twice before I do this again.

A40E6140-93AD-411C-BE10-F246625DFA6C (resized).jpeg

Thanks for the idea, maybe next time.

After 195 decals I finally have them all applied. My next step is to put a couple coats of clear on it, but the weather is difficult this time of year. I’ll keep an eye on it for an opportunity. While I wait I’ll start on the cabinet. It will get a full paint with pinball pimp stencils. This is what it looks like today.

48E50A30-6DFF-4AEE-94B4-C49F6CE5CE20 (resized).jpeg

F014F501-C299-4317-8488-2A39276AC948 (resized).jpeg

The back box is next. I removed the mechanism and all the brackets to get it ready for repair and paint. It’s not in great shape, but not bad either. I’ll need to do some wood repair and bondo work first. Here are some before pictures.

1944C275-6AE8-4F5B-A126-EC789E9A2051 (resized).jpeg

4D7889C0-B0F8-4B1A-BE8C-822184B25FDD (resized).jpeg

66F4EA37-84AC-431E-8D77-731AC64B5D35 (resized).jpeg

A25A1CC7-DB18-41AE-B661-93AF91C5B2FF (resized).jpeg

DD1CB5B7-C046-4A93-8FAC-DC348666E851 (resized).jpeg

Thanks for the nice comment. I’ll watch the weather and will wait for the low 80’s with mid 70’s humidity. That’s the best I can hope for this time of year and it will be a small window of opportunity in the evening. As it gets cooler the humidity goes up.

I stripped the paint and then sanded it smooth. I fixed the wood issues and then applied bondo with the fiberglass strands. Once I was sure everything was fixed and smooth I put on my first coat of primer. Not a surprise but the primer highlighted issues I didn’t see before. More bondo is next after the primer dries.

0C9340D3-CBA4-4B24-B9D8-7A3EA31399DC (resized).jpeg

3CFE67F0-6D61-4C43-ABEE-2E7566E0E1B4 (resized).jpeg

CABDFA0D-1FD6-4895-856B-735B5B3D5AC3 (resized).jpeg

The weather isn’t good for painting so I decided to work on replacing the nine drop targets. 18 switches, 3 coils and 6 screws later and I have it out. I must say it is a mechanical marvel. It looks like a challenge. Wish me luck.

0BCEAD98-1CFE-47B5-A0F7-8C8876CC8A72 (resized).jpeg

1C5BF554-290E-48CC-B71C-BD2B1853B573 (resized).jpeg

51A5DBA8-C868-44D0-8AB2-5D52C170E191 (resized).jpeg

6CCAF025-8EE6-4095-A2DE-F2F675FD0643 (resized).jpeg

ADE4DFBA-E303-4DE3-9A37-F86A9D7C252B (resized).jpeg

I took advantage of some good weather this morning. I sprayed a coat of primer and the first coat of Dover White. I’ll need to fix one run and a couple of pinholes, but overall not bad.

13C90DED-6924-4F8F-B6FD-B3116D6D87A9 (resized).jpeg

19A5CAC5-10E4-4F10-9D8F-5050CD42A81A (resized).jpeg

719F03C0-8183-430D-89A0-2EDEE4B77CA5 (resized).jpeg

Early on I decided to leave the logo alone since it was in good shape. After seeing the color difference I wish I had gone ahead and done it.

I decided to replace the drop targets today. After looking at it for awhile I decided to take off the side closest to the targets and change them from that side. After removing the panel I discovered the targets don’t fit through the hole for removal purposes. I went to Harbor Freight and bought a cutoff wheel. I created a slot by the top of the frame that allowed me to easily remove the targets. After that the job was simple. The new targets look soo much better.

140D4299-AABA-40FA-9B72-2108F2D2E9D0 (resized).jpeg

605C2BD9-6369-4B01-8639-CD7E3A5A86DD (resized).jpeg

84D3AA63-2E8C-4CA6-8830-48E495083882 (resized).jpeg

70424BEB-2DE9-408B-B56D-0AB89A69CD82 (resized).jpeg

126A8ADC-BA6A-4D13-8B08-4316B69D6E8A (resized).jpeg

82D375B8-76B0-455D-A2B5-986A53F9433C (resized).jpeg

A121C551-579E-482D-B3FD-ED6AD329FAB2 (resized).jpeg

I watched a video of someone replacing drop targets on an assembly that already had the cutouts. It looked like a great idea and justified another tool so I was in. I wish there was a connector for all the switches it would make life easier. I may cut the wires and butt splice them later. That will allow me to install, clean and adjust all the switches on my bench.

Thanks

I’m not sure they are really necessary, but I like the idea. I ordered a package of 2 pin connectors and a 6 pin connector. Thanks for helping to spend my money.

1. I painted the back box door with some silver “hammered” paint.
2. I installed some brads in the square piece that is under the back box, fixed all the dings with bondo and then applied a couple coats of primer and Dover White paint.
3. The back box was more of a challenge, but it also got more bondo as well as primer and paint.

With the last coat of Dover White painting is done for now. I’m waiting on the connectors for the targets and have started to clean some of the main cabinet parts. I’ll start disassembling it soon.

83923601-A412-41FE-8F62-A490D69A045F (resized).jpeg

F1D75B27-F1AA-4936-B37B-1EE0A13BA310 (resized).jpeg

I installed the Molex connectors today on the target bank. I’m still not sure it was necessary or worth the time and expense. Of course my opinion will change if I ever need to remove the bank again. I know it was the right thing to do and I learned something. Sort of what the hobby is about.

B1508A09-39EC-4D8C-A7EF-C93410709695 (resized).jpeg

FC6E1215-943E-4267-BCB5-8FE4AD2C0847 (resized).jpeg

I finished installing the Molex connectors on the bottom of the play field. I wish I had used two 6 pin connectors instead of one 6 pin and three 2 pin connectors. It would have been cleaner. Live and learn. It will still work.

CEA063BD-F882-48AB-B618-E5E49123852A (resized).jpeg

The main cabinet is next. I need to replace the bottom and fix several areas of peeling wood. This is how it started.

1C348812-D6A6-4D97-93DA-F0182D2F65E4 (resized).jpeg

339F75CC-B218-45F6-8DBD-1E8A0024BB53 (resized).jpeg

8EA11C64-B416-490F-9EA7-DA644A4AA6A0 (resized).jpeg

DDC0F496-CA09-48C8-9184-F228B4509638 (resized).jpeg

FFF9EE9E-EEC2-4E5C-9C89-43F229FA6C1F (resized).jpeg

I was able to strip off most of the paint and then sanded the rest. After four tries at filling all the holes and gouges with bondo I’m ready for the first coat of primer. The love bugs are swarming now so I’m not sure if I’ll paint or not. I can always move on to replacing the bottom board.

1786C7DB-2C00-4A4D-AC54-0ADBF3E6A63C (resized).jpeg

2EBB8678-2F15-4DDF-9807-8912D30CAB19 (resized).jpeg

9BC69EE7-A972-4CE3-9756-155544AFFF82 (resized).jpeg

F2E069C0-285B-4AF1-B00E-9A2F33DB3D94 (resized).jpeg

Yes
I replaced the bottom panel on the cabinet and applied a couple coats of primer. That exposed more dents and imperfections so I went back to bondo and sanding again. After several sessions I decided good enough and put a couple coats of Dover white on it. I was hoping to be done at that point, but when starting another can the first spray had a bunch of grit in it. Of course it all went on the front of the cabinet. Looks like I’ll be sanding again. I have enough paint for one more coat. Fingers crossed. The weather is starting to change. I hope to be able to get back to the playfield soon.

8FEE5DD8-FD3E-424A-A4E8-D9F24B5C15A7 (resized).jpeg

AA5D6C4E-CB56-4076-876D-A6DE60768BC9 (resized).jpeg

My last coat of Dover White

32D9A8A0-12ED-4DAA-9003-E5329CFC2B72 (resized).jpeg

B32CE583-921B-4670-9EA5-48B50151A17A (resized).jpeg

BCD04CEA-B3A6-4F3D-96EE-72E9E6F21B8B (resized).jpeg

Tomorrow this gets a coat of clear to lock down the decals. Fingers crossed.

EC6EC264-BC82-4264-9F16-9ABDA88E5BFF (resized).jpeg

This is where I spray. The first mist coat is down.

403C929B-5592-41BB-83A6-BD01A14D5AC8 (resized).jpeg

I sprayed another mist coat and two medium coats. I started to run out on the second coat so I have some dry areas and a little orange peel. I’m not worried since I plan to sand and then apply the last coat in the next few days.

B1A1F69B-0280-4DFB-9C32-851CCDBB4CE2 (resized).jpeg