Quoted from Silverstreak02:I’m going to start the bottom relay board next. I plan to clean everything, replace the labels And cord as well as the board. I need to fix a few wire issues to. Does anyone have a good procedure for getting rid of the smell?[quoted image]
I love that old books smell if that’s what you mean. I actually wish that came as a sprayable fragrance.
Quoted from Silverstreak02:I’m going to start the bottom relay board next. I plan to clean everything, replace the labels And cord as well as the board. I need to fix a few wire issues to. Does anyone have a good procedure for getting rid of the smell?[quoted image]
ive replaced several boards on all my old EMs. If /when you replace the bottom board , your smell will pretty much go away. A good cleaning of the wires bundles is always nice to, but the cig and musty smell is embedded in that old wood board.
I’ve been working on the bottom board. I cleaned the harness with simple green and a toothbrush. I followed that with a rinse from the garden hose and then blew it dry with a leaf blower. I filed all the contacts and then moved everything to a new board. I still need to make a few more labels and remove a few components. I don’t see the need for the bounce switch, electrical outlet and the coin counter. The first two are pretty straight forward, but I need to figure out how the coin counter switch was wired. I also need to decide if I want to replace the on/off switch with a DPST switch with a new cord or just replace the cord as it is currently wired.
As a side note the smell is about 80% gone.
The lesson I learned is not to use a leaf blower on any of the switch stacks that use fish paper. The high speed air coupled with water caused the fish paper to separate and blow out of the stack. I ordered new fish paper from PBR and will replace it next week.
25DF5D2F-039F-4431-8E69-77082D908E4A (resized).jpegQuoted from Silverstreak02:The lesson I learned is not to use a leaf blower on any of the switch stacks that use fish paper. [quoted image]
I usually use a small 2 gallon vacuum with the hose reversed to Blow. I found that it is strong enough to get at most bad things inside an EM.
Usually I vacuum first because all the labels that are going to come off when "blowing" will come off inside the tank so I can re-glue them.
Next is the relay board in the back box. I’ll need to paint the front white to brighten things some. I inspected everything on the back and found it needs a complete going over. Everything that rotates is sticky, all switches need cleaning, most light sockets are corroded and a few wires are loose or disconnected. This should give me something to do for awhile.
10362BCB-3232-49C9-A6C6-53FA041D68C8 (resized).jpegEE5D649B-B2F5-479F-AD43-1CCDB5AF177D (resized).jpegQuoted from markp99:Looking great! I've got restoring a nice EM on my Pinball bucket list.
Thanks. You should give it a go. It’s not too difficult and is very rewarding to complete each task.
I replaced the fish paper on the score motor switches. I messed up 14 of them during the cleaning process. I hope I don’t make that mistake again. Getting the switch stacks apart to replace the fish paper is a real pain.
I took all four score reels apart for a good cleaning, fixed a few broken wires and adjusted the switches. They move smoothly now. I wanted to put decals on the reels to cover up the yellow plastic, but I wasn’t able to connect with the guy that sells the decals. In an effort to move forward I reinstalled everything. The credit unit is next.
17F40481-9FDE-4FC8-B0FB-85B492D030AF (resized).jpegAE5527A0-D60B-44E6-BCF7-157EA1C0F24A (resized).jpegQuoted from Bax1:what are you using for shining everything up? looks awesome!!!
A combo of the buffer and Meguiars wax.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from Silverstreak02:I reassembled the credit unit and installed it back on the board. It works very crisp now. Worth the effort.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I knew you could do it!
I need to buy a bench buffing wheel. I hand polish everything when I disassemble it, but the wheel looks like the way to go.
Quoted from Silverstreak02:This thing is next. It needs a good cleaning and is very sluggish. It’s gummed up somewhere.[quoted image][quoted image]
Same as above, with just a few variations.
Quoted from Silverstreak02:My last order from PBR included this light bulb installation tool. It’s the best $3 I’ve spent in awhile. I can’t believe I didn’t buy it sooner.[quoted image]
I started installing bulbs in the back box tonight with my new tool. I discovered the bulb is too loose in the tool and gets inserted too far into it. Ultimately this prevented me from getting the new bulbs locked in the light socket. I had to go back to using my modified rubber cork. It works great, but doesn’t look as nice as the new one. Oh well.
F9282ADA-2949-49E6-8D2E-64C56F25DB3A (resized).jpegSilverstreak02 following your project! You are doing great work there.
A suggestion for bulbs is this: ebay.com link: 0
Found this to be very handy for "embedded" bulbs in EMs.
Quoted from jbovenzi:silverstreak02 following your project! You are doing great work there.
A suggestion for bulbs is this: ebay.com link
Found this to be very handy for "embedded" bulbs in EMs.
I bought one of those tweezer style removers a while back and I personally didn’t care for it. I couldn’t get to a lot of spots with it. Old rubber plunger tips work really well and are free. There are a ton of ideas on this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/show-and-tell-your-diy-homemade-tools
Thanks for the additional ideas for a bulb replacement tool. I’ll look into those for next time. I didn’t say next time did I?
I finished the relay board by replacing 11 light sockets and cleaning all the switches and the one miniature stepper on the relay bracket. The stepper was a challenge to get right, but it is smooth and snappy now. I brought it in the house tonight and installed it in the backbox. Next I want to put triple thick on the glass and then move on to the playfield.
2603A4D1-6FE7-46C8-A82C-8BA4EC253A12 (resized).jpeg87FA4BCE-EA43-450D-ADF9-D952DEE81AD3 (resized).jpegQuoted from Playdium:Did you clear over the inserts?
I filled the inserts several times with auto clear. Everything is very smooth and flat.
Quoted from jrpinball:That playfield looks like there's a sheet of glass on it!
Thanks that wasn’t the plan, but just how it worked out.
Quoted from Silverstreak02:Another small but satisfying step. I installed the backglass.
[quoted image]
It's coming together. Outstanding work!
The cabinet and playfield paint and finish look amazing! That part always seems so daunting to me. Looks like it took a lot of work, but the results are breathtaking!
How many cans of Spray Max did you use to get the playfield done? the thickness of the clear on yours is about where I'd like to be on my Firepower project.
Quoted from mrm_4:How many cans of Spray Max did you use to get the playfield done? the thickness of the clear on yours is about where I'd like to be on my Firepower project.
I didn't know aeroseal can be used to get such a quality effect.
Quoted from mrm_4:How many cans of Spray Max did you use to get the playfield done? the thickness of the clear on yours is about where I'd like to be on my Firepower project.
I used eight cans over the course of many months. I would spray a color or two and then lock it down with a can before proceeding to the next color or decals. Keep in mind I sanded between every coat so there is no way to know how thick it really is.
Yeah, get what you mean. I’ll probably use 2 cans for lockdown and then a few coats. Then sand level for the water slide decals on the inserts then a few more cans to cover the decals and finish leveling.
Quoted from Playdium:I didn't know aeroseal can be used to get such a quality effect.
Spraymax is a great product. I think careful sanding between coats and letting it sit for a few months before final sand and buff helps regardless of the product used. Try it the next time you do a restore.
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