(Topic ID: 243167)

Jacks open project


By Silverstreak02

3 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 42 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by Silverstreak02
  • Topic is favorited by 12 Pinsiders

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#1 3 months ago

I purchased a player quality Jacks Open last fall. The intent was to clean it up, get it working and just enjoy it. That didn’t work. The ball kept getting stuck in the inserts, the targets snapped and I wasn’t able to handle the appearance of the planking. I decided to fix the wood on the cabinet followed by a repaint and to strip the playfield, fill the inserts, repaint everything followed by decals and auto clear.

Two months ago I started on the playfield and today I decided to start sharing my progress. The inserts have been filled, everything has been airbrushed and I have applied several coats of clear. Certainly not perfect, but a good start. I will apply decals in the next few weeks before more clear and will then move on to the cabinet. Before pictures.

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#2 3 months ago

A picture of the playfield with everything removed

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#3 3 months ago

Great game! I will be watching with interest.

#4 3 months ago

Inserts filled, everything airbrushed and several coats of clear.

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#5 3 months ago

For those of us that like a shine

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1 week later
#6 86 days ago

I finished creating files for my decals today. I made twice the amount I need and have a total of seven pages. I printed one of the pages for the cards and tried them for size on the straight flush cards. They are just paper and a little crooked, but show the size and a glimpse of how it will look.

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2 weeks later
#7 66 days ago

I decided to practice with the decal setting solution on some of my old decals from Cross Town. I wanted to see how well the decals stuck with the solution as well as how well they would stand up to being wiped down with Naptha. I’m happy to say they stuck well and weren’t affected when wiped with the Naptha. My next step is to get the seven sheets printed.

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#8 61 days ago

I went to Staples and got the water slide decals printed. They did a great job. Applying them should keep me busy for awhile.

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#9 61 days ago

Coming along nicely! I too will be watching...

#10 59 days ago

I started putting a few decals on. This is going to take awhile.

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#11 58 days ago

I ran into a problem when applying the circle decals. The decal wouldn’t release from the backing paper no matter how long I left it in the water. I looked closely and noticed most of the page was dull looking with just the upper corner that was shiny. I removed the one circle that was in the shiny section and it applied normally. It appears the paper was made incorrectly. This paper is about three years old and I hope it doesn’t expire.

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#12 58 days ago

I found another sheet just like the other one. I need to order more paper. Where can I get some?

#14 56 days ago

I received new paper and printed new decals. I not sure if all of the first batch is bad, but didn’t want to take a chance. I also printed new certificates for the Jacks Open and Cross Town.

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#15 54 days ago

I decided to replace the decals I installed earlier. Wow those things are really on there. The only thing that worked was 320 grit sandpaper and even then it took awhile. I hate going backwards, but the old paper worried me.

#16 52 days ago

I replaced all the decals from the first patch and started over. I just finished the cluster of suits on the right side and will start the left when I can see straight. Decals are easy, but time consuming.
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1 week later
#17 42 days ago

I finally finished the cluster of suits on the left side and the decals on all of the cards.

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#18 41 days ago

I added the Royal Flush decal tonight. It’s pretty difficult since I have to apply one letter at a time. It came out good enough. I wish I could have done white, but I can’t print that color. For grins I counted all the decals I applied so far and came up with 167. I’ll think twice before I do this again.

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#19 41 days ago
Quoted from Silverstreak02:

I wish I could have done white, but I can’t print that color.

For the future, on small items like this one, print the whole thing on a white decal, then you could have had the lettering in white since it would simply NOT print for that color. Just a thought for the next time you WILL do this again.

#20 40 days ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

For the future, on small items like this one, print the whole thing on a white decal, then you could have had the lettering in white since it would simply NOT print for that color. Just a thought for the next time you WILL do this again.

Thanks for the idea, maybe next time.

#21 38 days ago

After 195 decals I finally have them all applied. My next step is to put a couple coats of clear on it, but the weather is difficult this time of year. I’ll keep an eye on it for an opportunity. While I wait I’ll start on the cabinet. It will get a full paint with pinball pimp stencils. This is what it looks like today.

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#22 38 days ago

Autographed too!!

#23 37 days ago

The back box is next. I removed the mechanism and all the brackets to get it ready for repair and paint. It’s not in great shape, but not bad either. I’ll need to do some wood repair and bondo work first. Here are some before pictures.

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#24 37 days ago
Quoted from Silverstreak02:

After 195 decals I finally have them all applied. My next step is to put a couple coats of clear on it, but the weather is difficult this time of year. I’ll keep an eye on it for an opportunity. While I wait I’ll start on the cabinet. It will get a full paint with pinball pimp stencils. This is what it looks like today.[quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah, you probably have like 160% humidity down there this time of year. Nice work so far.

#25 34 days ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

Yeah, you probably have like 160% humidity down there this time of year. Nice work so far.

Thanks for the nice comment. I’ll watch the weather and will wait for the low 80’s with mid 70’s humidity. That’s the best I can hope for this time of year and it will be a small window of opportunity in the evening. As it gets cooler the humidity goes up.

#26 28 days ago

I stripped the paint and then sanded it smooth. I fixed the wood issues and then applied bondo with the fiberglass strands. Once I was sure everything was fixed and smooth I put on my first coat of primer. Not a surprise but the primer highlighted issues I didn’t see before. More bondo is next after the primer dries.

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#27 26 days ago

The weather isn’t good for painting so I decided to work on replacing the nine drop targets. 18 switches, 3 coils and 6 screws later and I have it out. I must say it is a mechanical marvel. It looks like a challenge. Wish me luck.

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#28 25 days ago

I took advantage of some good weather this morning. I sprayed a coat of primer and the first coat of Dover White. I’ll need to fix one run and a couple of pinholes, but overall not bad.

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#29 25 days ago

Good luck with the rest of the restoration , Looking good so far .. I am in the middle of my second complete playfield resto , a Gottlieb Surf champ ( https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/surf-champ-slow-playfield-restoration#post-4720357 ) and I can tell you , that your most valuable weapon is patience !
A small detail I noticed in your photos. The Gottlieb logo on the top , the area where the letters manuf. by and the date are printed should be pure white.
Since your are restoring all the white areas back to real white , this area should be looked after too.

#30 24 days ago
Quoted from phototamer:

Good luck with the rest of the restoration , Looking good so far .. I am in the middle of my second complete playfield resto , a Gottlieb Surf champ ( https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/surf-champ-slow-playfield-restoration#post-4720357 ) and I can tell you , that your most valuable weapon is patience !
A small detail I noticed in your photos. The Gottlieb logo on the top , the area where the letters manuf. by and the date are printed should be pure white.
Since your are restoring all the white areas back to real white , this area should be looked after too.

Early on I decided to leave the logo alone since it was in good shape. After seeing the color difference I wish I had gone ahead and done it.

#31 24 days ago

I decided to replace the drop targets today. After looking at it for awhile I decided to take off the side closest to the targets and change them from that side. After removing the panel I discovered the targets don’t fit through the hole for removal purposes. I went to Harbor Freight and bought a cutoff wheel. I created a slot by the top of the frame that allowed me to easily remove the targets. After that the job was simple. The new targets look soo much better.

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#33 24 days ago

Starting around 1979, Gottlieb started making slots in the drop target plates. This was to make changing broken targets much easier.

I've had to use the cutoff wheel too on a Pin Up and a Jack In The Box drop target assemblies to make the slots just like you did. It definitely makes it easy for future drop target repairs/replacement. Now the only thing that would make it even easier is if the drop target units were unpluggable.

#34 24 days ago

It is really coming along nicely.

#35 24 days ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

Starting around 1979, Gottlieb started making slots in the drop target plates. This was to make changing broken targets much easier.
I've had to use the cutoff wheel too on a Pin Up and a Jack In The Box drop target assemblies to make the slots just like you did. It definitely makes easy for future drop target repairs/replacement. Now the only that would make it even easier is it the drop target units were unpluggable.

I watched a video of someone replacing drop targets on an assembly that already had the cutouts. It looked like a great idea and justified another tool so I was in. I wish there was a connector for all the switches it would make life easier. I may cut the wires and butt splice them later. That will allow me to install, clean and adjust all the switches on my bench.

#36 24 days ago
Quoted from Daditude:

It is really coming along nicely.

Thanks

#37 23 days ago

If you cut any wires, be sure to tag each end. Sometimes the manufacturer reused some wire colors and some colors faded over the years.

#38 23 days ago

I would do them 1 wire at a time and install molex connectors, like HEP does on his builds. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18

hard part of that is how they run the wires sometimes doesn't make it easy.

#39 19 days ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

I would do them 1 wire at a time and install molex connectors, like HEP does on his builds. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18
hard part of that is how they run the wires sometimes doesn't make it easy.

I’m not sure they are really necessary, but I like the idea. I ordered a package of 2 pin connectors and a 6 pin connector. Thanks for helping to spend my money.

#40 15 days ago

1. I painted the back box door with some silver “hammered” paint.
2. I installed some brads in the square piece that is under the back box, fixed all the dings with bondo and then applied a couple coats of primer and Dover White paint.
3. The back box was more of a challenge, but it also got more bondo as well as primer and paint.

With the last coat of Dover White painting is done for now. I’m waiting on the connectors for the targets and have started to clean some of the main cabinet parts. I’ll start disassembling it soon.

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1 week later
#41 6 days ago

I installed the Molex connectors today on the target bank. I’m still not sure it was necessary or worth the time and expense. Of course my opinion will change if I ever need to remove the bank again. I know it was the right thing to do and I learned something. Sort of what the hobby is about.

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#42 4 days ago

I finished installing the Molex connectors on the bottom of the play field. I wish I had used two 6 pin connectors instead of one 6 pin and three 2 pin connectors. It would have been cleaner. Live and learn. It will still work.

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