Start with testing the diode that goes to the coil on the power-board.
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It's not that hard to test a diode.
1. Turn the game off.
2. Put the multimeter in diode-test mode. (Triangle pointing at a line.)
3. Measure over, in your case, the D19-diode.
You should have 0.4 to 0.7 V in one direction, and OL (open loop/no reading/no signal) in the other direction.
Any other readings, change the diode.
0.461 in one direction sounds good, but in the other direction it's a little bit unclear. Multimeters from different manufacturers are not behaving exactly the same. Fluke shall show OL in the other direction if the diode is ok.
You should have the same reading as you have if you just hold the test probes out in the open air away from each other. You can also test the diodes next to D19, eg. D18 and D20 to see if you get the same reading on those.
Unfortunately I'm not able to see your video.
Readings 460 and 548 are ok, some multimeters shows mV instead of V, but D20 sounds like it's broken. Any shortened diode in the same group will make that fuse blow.
The manual says that F105 goes to solenoids 1 to 8, but sometimes this is wrong in the manual. Which solenoids are not working in your game when F105 is blown?
If I would have been you, I would have checked all the diodes that go to the solenoids, D5 to D32, to see if there's any more broken diodes.
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