Have had my Jackbot for 10+ years and play it all the time, always draws me back just like my Fast Draw. I put the JB up for sale about 7 yrs ago but fortunately no takers at the time. Selling it was one of THE dumbest things I *almost* did and now I honestly cannot fathom what I was thinking. Sometimes you need to have a game a looong time to totally appreciate that it has never been and never will become tiresome to you. You step up to it and you WANT to play it no matter how long you've had it. To me that is the definition of a 'keeper'.

I stumbled upon this pic of a JB playfield and to me it looks like the top of the target bank has a steel flap on top, slightly less wide than the bank. Makes sense, on mine occasionally a ball can get ‘stuck’ at the seam between the top of the bank and the pf slot when it is down. But it doesn’t have the flap and I can’t find any pics of another JB with it. Anybody know if this is a one-off mod somebody did? Because it looks like a good idea! Except the balls would bash the flap as it is slowly going up and down.
9ADF697E-A312-43D9-9788-B5F47843B49A (resized).jpeg

You mean you are missing the eye shots, or the ball is going in but sometimes just not ‘sticking’ in the locks?

If the early version with saucers just has a glancing plate mounted behind it, maybe you could experiment with a layer(s) of shock-absorbing gel or tape between the plate and the playfield, or on the face that the ball hits, might cut down on the ball popping back out on hard hits.

I did try putting gel between a saucer plate and the pf on another game but honestly don’t remember how well it worked. Plain old thick felt would probably work well too, adjusting the plate holes forward a bit if necessary.

I understand that a copy of a translite done on glass is not going to suddenly look like a brilliantly-inked silkscreened backglass of old and is still at best going to look like the original translite with mirroring, but geeze the above-reported fuzz and the scan lines and the contrast... should it look *worse*?

Contrast kinda sucks on any translight though with no silver or black masking ink to make certain areas totally unlit, and translight art is seldom suited for that anyway (including Jackbot) even if they used one method or another to do masking. If the original non-processed artwork could be obtained and a copy put on glass instead of a translilte for the source, I'd sign up for that in a second.

Can you point this out exactly in the pic? I can't find what is different in your pic vs. their b&w artwork of the mirrored parts which is posted on their website. Other than that, seeing various owners' pics of it now it looks way better than it was sounding.

Feature adjustment #17 lets you adjust the special from 0 to 20% for the "Casino Run and Slot Machine" (maybe by the former they mean when it also shows the awards on the slot reels), I just maxed mine to 20% and will see how much it actually affects it because I had it set to 10 for years and can't really remember ever winning a slot machine special. Adj 18 also has to be set to 'fixed' to use adj. 17's value. But adj #18 is called 'Casino Run Specials' and doesn't specify if it applies to the Slot Machine feature specials also, nor what the default percentage is. The rules say Special is a possible award for the Slot Machine saucer shot so you are *supposed* to be able to win one.

correction - to use 0 to 20% setting, adj. 18 must be set to 'auto'.

I just installed my first color LED display (ColorDMD) into my beloved Jackbot and wow, it is totally worth it. The colors on the face when you lock a ball, Casino Run sequence, the red flames shooting out of the space shuttle engines, the red and black card suits, beautiful. Besides looking great the color makes the objects in the relatively low-rez graphics more instantly clear and recognizable. I went with LED because to me has the exact same 'look' as the factory dmd except it's in color. My pics do not really show the brilliance of the colors, I love it.
89109324_669083610570395_3968627146749902848_n (resized).jpg

Yeah they aren't cheap. In the past I've owned a TZ, LOTR, The Shadow, STTNG and WPT but Jack*Bot is the only one I have held onto, so I won't be able to go overboard with these displays... for now.

Regarding the ball flying off the spiral ramp, how about purposely giving it some really hard shots (use other thumb as a 'spring') and video it in slo-mo mode so you can perhaps see where it is flying off? Like if it's hopping the last hole (where it's become cracked) or flying out as it comes from under the shield. Mine has the original spring, has never come off that ramp and I do full plunges sometimes if my game is going lousy.

I'm changing the rubbers and the diagram in the manual shows two 5/16 post rings, but I can't see anywhere where the upper one goes. Arrow seems to be pointing to the same spot as the right ball lock sleeve (?) Rubber kits include two of these also, am I missing something hidden back there or is it just a typo and there is no ring there? When I've changed them in the past I didn't use the diagram, just did it by eye so never noticed this. Thanks!
95355752_1105894626455839_8795400055004594176_n (resized).jpg

I hadn't noticed the K goof. I'm using white rings instead of black (I prefer the look and it still plays great) so the 1" ones don't seem too tight behind the side target bank. The H to the right of the ramp, 3", I dunno about that one. Even using white rings that seemed WAY too tight so I used a 3 & 1/2".

Aha, after looking at the flyer I don't think the 1" K ring is a goof after all, it shows a ring across the two posts to close off that opening where the ball can sneak out and fall onto the playfield. Some JB pics in here where others have one there too. Diagram is still pointing at the wrong post though. Looks like a fix Wms did to block the one side exit that remained from Pinbot's layout (first exit was above that where they simply made the plastic longer to block it.) So I added one there except mounted under the two plastics and then the grommets, looks a little cleaner that way. The ball almost *never* slips thru there but if it does it's a bit of a ripoff, no award other than it's like falling thru the Solar Jets hole... with the ball nowhere near the pop bumpers. >8()

95264390_916916468721988_1248700039811825664_n (resized).jpgc51a0b98df4d4e8e1e795dfe513f134721db6961 (resized).jpg

I keep the EB off too, if you do something big with a bought EB it's like it will have an asterisk after it in your record book. I have the 'cheating' option turned off as well, but the rest of the gambling in it where you get to choose if you want to risk a reward you've won is great especially during Casino Run.

The cheating setting turns it totally on or off, not sure about the sound effect. It's a great gimmick if the game is on location and it was my 50 cents and I want my money's worth, but playing mine at home I don't feel like pushing that button all the time just to try to get a few random freebies I didn't actually earn by making a shot.

Using two different colored outlane guides by the factory would seem very unusual to me. Don't know if any other game had that. But I would like to get a blue one, it does 'work'. And I'd think that JB wasn't necessarily rushed but should've proceeded relatively quickly since it is basically a Pinbot do-over except with a few different mechs and new software. They did rush in a way by sticking with Pinbot's lock hole mechs at the start of the run but the software doesn't feel slapped together.

I wonder what the real reason was for the change from colored keno arrows to white. Maybe they ran out of certain color(s) of the colored arrows and said, eh just change them to all white? A blue arrow especially doesn't seem like a big volume item compared to red or orange. Or they thought the colored arrows might be a little confusing when only the blue and green were flashing for the locks and the matching colored targets would be down? Then again the arrows printed below the holes are blue and green which makes me think maybe they just did run short of a color or two.

Has anyone ever put a blue flipper rubber on the left and red on the right on a JB or Pinbot? It would fit the theme but it might look a little funky like you were short on rings and had to make do. Plus the pf art below the flippers show both red. If they only knew now you'd be able to buy blue ones

I'd give a damn whether they put black flipper rings on it in the factory if I hadn't been able to change mine to red in about 4 seconds with nothing but my fingers.

Last night I discovered by chance that you can get JB’s “credit roll” to run instantly by just turning the game on or exiting the diagnostics, then *holding* the extra ball button as you tap the L flipper button three times. Might work at other times, may only allow you to do it once after the game is turned on. Can’t remember if I’ve ever seen it before nor did I find any specific reference out there to this particular button sequence, only found a note that you had to wait for the ex ball button to flash in attract and you'd get 'credit roll and story of development' (but wasn’t sure if they were really just referring to the Joe Joos Jr. tribute where the button also flashes when it is available to start.) Anyway very cool, plays a medley of JB’s music too, and it won’t let you exit it by hitting both flipper buttons. Can anybody confirm if this does work also by waiting for the ex ball button to flash during attract?

Even after I took a good look at my blue one I *still* thought it was opaque like the other ones, but everybody was saying it isn't so I shined a flashlight right into it and whadda ya know, translucent! Otherwise with the black plastic behind them it does not look translucent to me, it just looks darker than the round one on the other bank. But even the round one is a very dark blue so I ain't going to bother changing it. Funny how I've had the game for 15-20 years and never noticed this little quirk.

On mine the saucer ejects nearly always glance off the right rail, then glance off the left rubber and end up at the right flipper. Never to the slings. Once in a while it might wiggle around more than that (or less) on the way out and can go straight down the middle or close to it but with the saver post there I don't exactly feel like I'm being ripped off.

May I ask where you found those art blades? I found a place selling Jackbot sets with either a gambling theme or a 'planets + space station' theme but not this one. I do kind of like the gambling one though. Thanks!

Wow, I didn't know Jack*Bot was a character in a series of children's books. My, how he's changed.

$_59 (resized).jpg

I finally got around to buying the suggested left blue flipper lane guide. I like it, I like it! The only red-to-blue modding I want to do beyond that are the star posts on the left side so I'll order a dozen blue ones and also the two skinny posts along the eject hole entrance.

132828620_239869014170617_3991348763813799671_n (resized).jpg

Hard to see, you're tellin' me. There's the two with the large rubber ring across them along the left side of the entrance but I even shined a flashlight back in there and I'll be darned if I can see a third one near the eject hole or elsewhere. Where exactly is it, do you have a photo? Thanks!

https://www.pinballinc.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=102
but I think other places have it too.

Nice! What's the story on the cool topper? I saw one that somebody made which is very similar to it in here, but the Bride was positioned differently. **Oops never mind, I see that Tilt Graphics sells them!

Ohhh *there* it is, thanks. It's pretty obvious from the player's perspective now that I know where it is. It is actually much more visible than the other two because it's well lit by the nearby lamps so I will change it also.

Flipping thru pictures in this thread I noticed something that I couldn't find any mention of - - on the early JBs with the colored keno arrows & the different colored ramp plastic, it seems that the Casino Run arrow is yellow/orange instead of red. Personally I like the red better, Casino Run is a biggie and red looks more important.

I like the gambling part because you're deciding whether it's worth it to bet on yourself, your own shooting skills, not just some random casino outcomes. The rest of the game just 'fits' with the kind of gameplay I like, such as bashing the targets all day long to complete the matrix and advance to the next matrix and bank shots between the banks. And the more down-to-earth Pin-Bot playfield with only one ramp instead of a ton of 'em nor any underground habitrails, where you have to wait around for the ball to always comes back out in a predetermined place.

Sure, if it's your first shot at a fresh rack, with no ball locked yet, and you don't miss. The harder the difficulty settings are the sooner you'll have to begin 'bashing' at 'em to complete the matrix as the game progresses too.

I didn't go whole hog, just led'd the blue and green inserts since they're pretty dark, and a few GI lamps that are tucked way in back and hidden. And those five card inserts too with the solid white artwork on them, they GOTTA have leds. With regular bulbs they are the most pathetically dim inserts I ever saw even in the dark. Maybe it's because a lot of the light is reflected back off of the white artwork instead of getting thru them.

I put the new star posts in today. Looks "cool", this PinBot-esque mod does work. After 40 years I finally have a truly politically divided pinball. Blue on one side and red on the other. They're even on the correct sides - blue is left, red is right. I'm a total artwork dodo really, never noticed PB and JB's blue vs. red motifs until I saw it pointed out in here and I've had this JB for many years. Either that or I'm colorblind!

Next -- gotta hunt up the five different color flasher domes, that one looks like it works too.

151933005_4011165405569273_2438982579781727005_n (resized).jpg

I'm limiting mine to exchanging red factory parts with blue factory parts. Pinbot's ramp is blue with blue and red decals, JB is black with blue and red decals. Jackbot's black is plain ol' black of course but it actually makes more sense to me than Pinbot's as far as the red vs. blue thing. Pinbot went and picked sides with the ramp and made the whole thing one of the two magical 'bot' colors, that biased robot.

True. I think if I had a Pinbot, that bi-color ramp would be the ultimate mod as far as the red on this side and blue on that side scheme, would be totally complete.

If the visor seems to move up and down freely and straight by hand, might just be a rivet for the raising arm in the back of the visor came loose, or the plastic broke at one of those two corners and needs repairing.

I think it's just gravity. When you either pull on that upper lever or lift up on the ramp itself, before it latches, everything should flop back down from it's own weight. So looks like yours probably just needs a drop of oil, shouldn't be any binding in the lever action or ramp.

**Correction**, the 'up' solenoid plunger & return spring is what pushes the ramp back down. But assuming yours is present, it's just sticky at the pivot.

I thought he was talking about the decal below that which is around the five flashers on the otherwise black backboard. I wouldn't mind having that too. Heck I'd settle for just an outer space graphic with stars instead of the plain black.

Where did u find this pic? Can't find this decal anyplace. Maybe it's just a one-off thing.

I always shoot the vortex. Might get the center hole (it is tough though!) and always get some pop action right off the bat with every ball unless once in a while I goof or slip and don't even shoot it hard enough to make it to the first hole. The soft plunge thing is indeed kind of boring and I'm just not into doing tricks and shortcuts at home even if I'd get more points, I've always been a very lazy, casual player.

Mine is very inconsistent too. I should do an overhaul on the sucker with whatever new parts it would take.

Other tricks I've seen mentioned for the early production lock hole rejections are dropping the saucer mechs down a little with spacers, and 'dead drop' foam for the saucer backing plates (don't remember if was put on the face of the plate itself or maybe as a shock absorber between the plate and the playfield). And perhaps a little bit lower power flipper coils to dial them down closer to Pinbot where you could still make the ramp etc., just with a little less oomph. Same problem was on WMS Indiana Jones so you might find some tips poking around here regarding that game too.

I can't remember the redesigned locks on my later-version JB ever rejecting a shot.

A full pull on mine either slams it to the top hole too damn hard, or the ball will get really wonky and rattle going around and might not even get to the center hole. Maybe even a little bit lighter spring would work on mine where a full pull would more reliably get to the top hole but without slamming it up there, I dunno. If it worked you'd have more 'useable' range in the plunger pull too. Maybe it's just the design of the whole thing, I wonder how Pinbots compare as per the shooter spring, if it's the same one. Today I decided to put a new black rubber tip on mine, tweaked the shooter position to center it a tiny bit better, and tweaked the shooter gauge 'arms' so with the plunger pulled out the ball doesn't shift around when you press on the ball towards the shooter, where it's totally stable, seems to have helped.

More Vortex.....
I put in the three blue 'skinny' posts on the left side today and figured I'd check out the vortex ramp since I had to take the main ramp off anyway. The transition from the curved rail to the vortex entrance wall looked like it might need tweaking, and when the top rail screw was loosened there was a tiny bit of play in the position of the rail up/down. So I retightened the screw while holding the rail downward to its lowest position. Then did just a slight tweak more to the rail itself (pushing downward at top edge of rail) to make sure the ball would not hit the edge of the vortex entrance wall as it came off the rail. So the ball would ride over that edge. That has gotten rid of the bad rattle and hanging up of the ball I would get sometimes right after it passed that point, a definite improvement in play and when I tested it flicking balls thru there with my finger.
But it's still not some precision device where I can shoot any hole I want just by looking at the shooter gauge. Especially with slower balls being affected by the three drop holes making it inherently unpredictable.

Question - is there supposed to be only one hex standoff post between the main ramp and the shield on top of it, and on the left end? And what is the correct length? Mine had this one standoff but forgot where it was when I took it off. On the left it seems correct but with the shield mounted it looks like perhaps the post is too long, shield slants a little to the right. I've ordered a new set of plastics 'cause I've got a few cracked ones and the right end of my shield is broken off and has to have a washer on the screw to hold that end down. Lot of pics out there look like they have NO post on the left but they don't look right to me, the shield is bent way down on left side. Or they look higher in the center. One I saw was perfectly straight. I want to make sure I mount the new one correctly. Thanks!

157515010_1474416562898067_2642257834349418163_n (resized).jpg

rteterterte (resized).jpg

I just figured this out a few minutes ago when my four-eyed eyeballs noticed a *second* hex spacer I had missed after removing, then figured out oh, these two are for the clear plastic above the ramp entrance, duh. So yeah when I put the shield on with no spacers it does conform to the existing plastic's warp. I did put a couple of thick washers under the left end though just to raise it up a little to make it look more level, not the whole half inch like the hex bolt was that I wrongly thought should go there. Thanks!

I wonder if there is any wiggle room on the curved rail position of the lock holes on the later Jackbots, at the top screw. Maybe those could be dialed in better if that end were moved left or right a teeny bit. Could even lengthen the screw hole in the rail for more range in position but I'm not going to try it since I can't complain about the locks on mine. Those holes might even get play worn into them just from the ball hammering the rail. Rail could even get bent from something or somebody and be a little out of whack, you never know.

I noticed something...... Pinbot, Bride of Pinbot and Jackbot are all spelled with a "dot" before the "Bot" on every game and factory flyer. When you do a search on "Pinbot" you get all four Pinbot/Bride versions... but if you search on "Jackbot" you get nothing. Pinside's very own spelling is "Jack*Bot" but even if you search on THAT with the asterisk you get no results. You have to search for 'Jack bot' with a space or a period?? Jackbot is being silently 'cancelled' I tell you!

Installed the color-coordinated flasher domes mod. Whoever thought of this idea first is a genius even though when you see it, it is so obvious!

The blue and green domes looked washed out with my standard flasher lamps compared to the yellow/orange/red. The blue was so dull and sick it looked practically white. So I added some colored film that I had left over from another project inside those two domes to deepen the color for now. I prefer sticking with incandescents but I will order some colored LED flashers for all five, the blue and green especially need it.

158690698_3915090085272706_8385445553016029799_n (resized).jpg

As per the tweaking of the vortex entrance I mentioned earlier, after playing a few dozen games I understated how much it improved the vortex. I'm getting center hole shots a TON now when I'm not even trying, before it was a rarity. Two shots in a row once, that was *impossible* for me before. Made my vortex operate as smoothly and consistently as this mech was probably designed to work. I should've checked back there years ago. So if you have that rattling/dying sometimes as it enters the vortex ramp, you might want to check out your rail/vortex entrance alignment and play around with the positioning via the mounting hole in the rail, see if it's worn and/or the mounting screw is loose and the rail has gotten pushed back too far.

No 4 ball multiball. I think the game takes four balls in case one gets stuck on the playfield and the software can compensate.

Can anybody verify this with their JB? If I set 'max ex balls per ball in play' to 'off', lighting the extra ball lanes works, like the 'light ex ball' on the vortex exit. But if I set it to a number like 4 or whatever, then the lanes won't light and instead it awards 200K. This doesn't make sense to me. Bug?

I've only checked the lighting of the extra ball lanes via the miniplayfield exit switch. With 'max ex balls per BIP' set to a value, it doesn't light an extra ball lane and only awards 200K. I don't know if this setting affects direct awarding of an extra ball. The separate 'max ex balls' setting doesn't seem to be associated with this issue.
Correction - awards 200M, not 200K.

Doesn't make any sense, why should having a max # of ex balls per ball in play have anything to do with disabling lighting of the ex ball lanes.

<<One thing I haven't figured out for sure... I think the game might award 200M for an "EB" whether you actually record an EB or not. But, I'm not sure.>>

I could see where this would make sense if you did exceed the max ex ball per game or per ball limits during a game, then after that if you won an extra ball it would award points instead of, well, nothing. But I haven't tested that. The above ex ball lanes issue is happening right off the bat after game start where I'm not exceeding any ex ball limits settings.

LEDS only do the blink it in those two lamp positions and not others? I don't have any LED flashers so can't test it.

Are ya using the exact same LED flashers there as in the rest of the game and with same number of LEDs in the lamp? Maybe it's an issue with how old they are or what brand. Or like a 'ghosting' type of thing maybe? But I only know about that regarding 6 v standard leds.

If you aren't using the maximum brightness flashers available you could switch to two of those and leave regular lamps in the other two sockets. Or maybe use the four flashers and add a resistor to the sockets in series with the leds or in parallel (so resistor sucks up a little juice similar to when you tried combo of led+lamp and didn't have any blink) but I'm not an expert on that. Otherwise it doesn't sound like it's a problem with the game itself if everything else is working fine, probably just quirk with those lamps being on a little bit different kind of circuit than all the other flashers or that they're the only flashers on that circuit.

Perhaps the main flasher circuit is essentially the same as the one the visor flashers are on but with so many more lamps in it, even equipped 100% with LEDs they individually don't end up with enough juice to exhibit the blink. Sounds logical to me.

Found some useful tips in here regarding dialing in the vortex shot on Pinbot, same would apply to Jack*Bot.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hitting-the-pinbot-vortex-well-adjust-the-shooter-screws

Anybody ever put a repro set of cabinet art decals on their JB? I got the faded-out reds too and was thinking about it but not sure how hard it is to put them on without screwing it up.

So you can't just apply it over the existing artwork? Didn't know it was such a huge hassle, just to get my reds back, no way am I going to go thru all that. If mine was all torn up and gouged it would be a different story.

Just poking around I saw one maker that uses a grey backing behind the artwork and said it would block out discoloration or black marks or stains on the wood, so I thought maybe it would also prevent the existing artwork from showing thru it if you applied it on top of it. But still a lot of work, and I'm lazy.

Stumbled on something interesting - on a promotional photo of JackBot's playfield and the JB poster there seems to be a post and rubber ring in that miniplayfield gap in the upper left corner. Sure looks that way anyway, the only thing that should be visible on a Jackbot or Pinbot is the head of the miniplayfield mounting screw. Kind of an odd rubber size too, smaller than a standard post but bigger than a mini. Unless it's the largest size minipost rubber on a thicker minipost of some kind. Only pf pic I could find with that on it. If that's what it is maybe they added it to JB but decided to scrap it.

Some PinBot owners have balls sometimes falling thru that gap and onto the playfield but it's never happened on my JackBot.

image-38 (resized).png

183417787_202579158391469_7750430419529882199_n (resized).jpg

I could see that rubber ring maybe being a 3/16" which is an unusual seldom-used size, between a large minipost rubber and a 5/16" for regular star posts. And mounted on a short 'skinny' metal post that screwed into where the mini pf mounting screw is in production. Oh well. On my JB the ball has never squeaked thru there once but on Pinbot it sounds like tweaking the position of the vortex ramp (and thus its exit point at the top) can help stop it if it is doing it.

....Ah-hahhh, looks like the post *was* used on the early production ones with the colored arrows but then they ditched it? But seems like nobody knows it was supposed to have a rubber, couldn't find any pics where a rubber was mounted on it. So if your JB has that problem of the ball falling out thru that gap you could replace the screw with that post. I don't think Pinbot has the mounting hole and screw there though.
184601718_974302706650027_5646699493201327827_n (resized).jpg

If you end up still having any LED ghosting on your feature lamps, I put one of the unofficial roms with the ghosting fix in my JB. Long time ago and don't remember where I got it though. It only fixes the regular controlled lamps, not GI flickering.

WPC GI naturally flickers whenever it is being dimmed during effects or in power saver mode in attract, so you're only going to notice it then. The flickering will be more noticeable using LEDs especially extra bright ones since they don't have the filament delay that a lamp does. Also LEDs in the GI will still be 'on' a little bit when dimming is at max, that bugged me cuz I like to play in low room light generally so I stuck with lamps in the GI. Even lamp filaments will glow a little at max dimming too but it is barely visible.

I don't think the GI issue can be fixed with rom changes, that's just how the WPC system controls them, thus the need for those OCD boards if you want to smooth out the GI.

And the art on the center flasher insert is different, no blue art on Jackbot's visor, the whole insert is exposed and bare wood around it. And the Casino Run insert is round instead of an arrow?? Yeah this ain't the usual 'early version with the colored keno arrows' deal! Anybody seen one like this before?

Has two extra flashers, under the lock holes. Maybe Pinbot had those too?

Or perhaps all the early versions have those, before they changed to the deeper lock mechs (?)

And where did those two later-version eye lock hole vuk-type mechs come from? Were they there when you got it or did you change them out?

<<<SY. 3.77 8/14/98>>>

3 years later!

There's supposed to be a bug where sometimes the total bonus is a little less than what it should be once the various bonus subtotals are added together, related to the vortex bonus sometimes resetting to a low number or something. And the weird thing I stumbled upon that sure seems like a bug to me, where if 'max extra balls per play' is set to anything but 'off', it won't light any extra ball lanes when it should but awards 200M instead, which doesn't make sense since. Some other bugs too I read about that are totally unimportant like animation omissions under a few rare certain circumstances.

Maybe the H rom isn't much more than free play only with maybe a few goodies like a pause feature, but I'd love to find out too, even if it's just a report from the game being played and the differences noted.

That scene had the typical Hollywood pinball shortcuts:
- Robert and the punk both turn the machine on and off, but with a switch on the back of the head instead of under the cabinet
- Game has bells/chimes noises instead of sound effects
- It was in attract mode the whole time; the punk even continues "playing" it in mid-game right after it had just been turned off and back on again. I own a '53 Gtb Poker Face where you can actually do that but after the 50s, forget it!

I'm using the 1.01R U6 made for fixing ghosting of LEDs, sys. 3.46 & sound 1.0. Original U6 in it was 1.0R.

The 'DeMar' game also has a sleeve post + sleeve rubber at the left end of the top target bank instead of a minipost + grommet rubber. Manual specifies grommet and that's what mine and others I looked at have, but don't know if there might be others that came with the sleeve post. There are pics of Pinbots with either one.

Could you please post a pic of the entire playfield? Might be some other differences.

I was eyeballing that proto pf so closely it finally dawned on me that about one inch of the skinny vertical tips on my flipper lane plastics were snapped off, in the exact same place on both so I never noticed it all these years, looked 'normal' I guess. Good thing I bought a plastics set a few months ago for some other cracked plastics. Fixed! But something tells me those tips don't last too long. Although I'll bet they could be and were easily broken off just from cleaning the pf and the cloth getting snagged on them.

Just noticed another artwork difference on that 'Demar' prototype, it appears this one is a considerable goof that hadn't been caught yet. On the horizontal artwork along the 5X5 chest lamps that correspond to the colors of the side targets, the two top rows should be yellow, then blue. On the proto it's BLUE first... and then WHITE!

2bd900696b96c22cea9ff92c1a0cb63b83bc81d7 (resized).jpg

My lower pop cap had worn a small bit of artwork off the mini pf, I touched it up with water acrylics and then protected the touchup with a bit of clear mylar tape too.

I'd want a friggin' refund or a replacement on that glass, one of the main points of redoing it on glass was for the mirroring. I've pondered getting one but not if the mirroring might look like that.

Has anybody tried LEDs brighter than 2SMDs on this glass? I can barely even read the "A Pinball Adventure" in that pic, is that solely because it's darker or because of the printing there, or is it just exposure of the photo? I've tried warm whites on my translite but it made the colors look washed out so I put the 555s back. The darker glass one must REALLY be dark with standard lamps.

I saw two decal sets available (for spiral ramp, apron etc.) but neither have the drop target decals. You'd think one of them would. But the Jackbot drop target decals are so dark I can't really make them out unless I put my eyeballs down there anyway. While playing they just look dark to me.

I checked mine again. Most of the time the saucer kick is a little bouncy on the way out and it ends up going to the right like the right sling or right flipper. Sometimes not much of a bounce and goes to right flipper. Sometimes rolls out of there along the rubber just like glass and then if's iffy as whether will be to left flipper or SDTM. But even then you have the center minipost.

I think they made the right call though as far as arcades. Experienced players used to the high-power flippers might say wow, these flippers seem really weak.

Assuming the leg levelers were screwed all the way in, would a Pinbot and a Jackbot have the exact same built-in playfield angle?

I am using red ones just 'cause that's what color they are in the artwork. Had my JB for many years and, I dunno, have never had a feeling that they are too strong, and I've had a couple of other games where I thought they were. If I did I'd definitely try weaker coils. I should check what angle I have it at, not sure. Heh, reminds me of when I owned a Capcom Breakshot. If you set the flippers to maximum power in the settings, it would start breaking things REAL quick.

Checked the bubble level, it's pretty low on the notches so I actually need to crank it UP a little.

I don't do the soft plunge trick either. But I may try it sometime just to see how horrible I am at it.

Me too, I like just listening to it play the attract music, very catchy.

For that back panel, instead of the black I wouldn't mind just a generic decal with artwork of a starfield with maybe a few galaxies and planets scattered around.

I never thought Casino Run was really difficult enough to warrant a cheat. I wouldn't mind a Megavisor cheat though, just to play it after a too-long drought of not being able to get it.

There's a vid on Youtube that shows some kind of easter egg where it displayed a simulated fire rescue video mode. Anybody know how to get this to show up? The video seems to show it just appear out of nowhere as he begins tapping in the flipper keystrokes to get the WOPR animation. Louis Koziarz mentioned it in the comments but no info on how you get it to run.

Yeah that sequence runs the WOPR animation on my game, but not the fire rescue video mode thing that started running in the video in the middle of him tapping in the WOPR sequence.