Making flaps is really pretty easy with the right tools. The material used is call shim stock. In the case of pinball flaps, it is blue tempered steel 1095.
As far as thickness, for example a Pinbot/Jackbot lift ramp, the upper flap blue tempered steel can be no thicker than .005". It has to be that thin in order for the ramp to be able fall to the playfield under its own weight. Any thicker and it won't fall, and the machine will go crazy...rapid up/down.
The .005" can also be used for just about any flap. Personally I like to do the entrance flaps with .007" or .008". I use both thicknesses because I like to order it in 100 foot strips, either 1.5" wide or 2.0" wide. Can't always get those widths in one or the other.
Chances are if you are looking to just fix your own flaps, you can buy pieces of the Blue Tempered 1095 Shim stock in 6"widths in lengths of either 50" or 25". 50" will cost between $20 and $30. 6" by 50" will easily do 75-100 flaps.
To cut out the flap. you can put some masking tape on the shim stock and simply trace out the shape as well as mark where the mounting holes should be.
The shape can be cut out with simple tin snips. I round the corners of the flaps on a belt sander.
Now I mentioned the need for the right tools. Tin snips...most people have them or can be easily purchased. To cut the holes in the flap for the rivet mounting or for the openings to screw the playfield down to the playfield, you cannot safely drill them. I use a metal punch set to put the holes in the flap. Harbor Freight has a pretty good one for around $39.... here's a link..
https://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-punch-and-die-set-95547.html
I have punched easily over 1000 holes at 1/8" diameter and it is still going strong...So for a home hobbyist, it will last a lifetime.
So now that you have the flap cut, you need to be able to rivet. I use both a rivet press and for the ones the rivet press can't reach, I use a hand held punch. With the hand held punch you just need to be able to solidly support the rivet head when hammering the bottom of the rivet to "roll" it over. I posted a video showing the use of the hand held punch here...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/swords-of-fury-custom-ramps/page/8
Brings us down to the last piece...the rivets. All the rivets are the same width (shaft) at 1/8". The type of rivets used are called Oval head Semi-tubular rivets. The thickness of the material being riveted determines the length of the rivet necessary. I stock these lengths primarily 3/16", 7/32", 1/4", 9/32" and 5/16".
In addition to the right rivets, you also need small washers to use when the bottom of the rivet would be against plastic....Just take a look under most any ramp. I use nickel coated steel rivets. I order each length of rivet in lots of 500 or 1000. PinRestore sells both the hand held rivet roll over tool (like the one in the video above) for $28 and a nice starter kit with rivets and washers for $30. I use nickel coated steel rivets, but Pin Restore uses nickel coated brass rivets. Both steel and brass will work fine.
Here is a link to the rivet page at PinRestore…
http://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html