(Topic ID: 93881)

Jack*Bot club... Everyone welcome

By Syco54645

9 years ago


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  • 1,101 posts
  • 123 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 52 days ago by scooter8416
  • Topic is favorited by 62 Pinsiders

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#340 5 years ago

I am nearing the completion of new ramps for Pinbot. MustangPaul thought I should post here as well. I have modified the Pinbot design very slightly so that it can make the Jackbot ramp perfectly as well. In another thread (Freeplay40 Ramps) I posted photos of one of the new main ramps that is dyed blue on the left and red on the right to mimic the blue red theme of these games. I'm also making the visor and the complete lift ramp for Pinbot. I believe they are the same in both Pinbot and Jackbot, but would appreciate if anyone knows for sure.

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#342 5 years ago
Quoted from PinsideMike:

There is slight differences yes. If you would like, I can take a few pictures here eventually. It might be something as simple as just the screw holes had a bit more support/plastic tab around them

Thanks....I already have a nice photo of an NOS Jackbot main ramp. I might just need a couple measurements for the positions and spread of the overhead wireform brackets.

1 month later
#374 5 years ago

Had a request to post a photo of the two color Jackbot ramp. Photo below shows both the Pinbot and Jackbot versions

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4 months later
#456 5 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

I do. The Jackbot metal flaps are a little different than my Pinbot metal flaps, so I'm going to make both a Jackbot and a Pinbot lift ramp, and I might as well do Riverboat Gambler as well so that one looks new. Freeplay's ramps look great but for what I would spend on them I picked up all the supplies I need, plus a rivet cinching tool.

The Jackbot and Pinbot ramps should be identical as they both carry the same original Williams part number. It the ramp above came out of your Pinbot or Jackbot, the shape of the plastic at the entrance is not correct...should be a square bottom. Both flaps should be the same on both ramps.

2 weeks later
#473 5 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Please fill us in how you did it. I tried to make a flap once, completely destroyed it

Making flaps is really pretty easy with the right tools. The material used is call shim stock. In the case of pinball flaps, it is blue tempered steel 1095.

As far as thickness, for example a Pinbot/Jackbot lift ramp, the upper flap blue tempered steel can be no thicker than .005". It has to be that thin in order for the ramp to be able fall to the playfield under its own weight. Any thicker and it won't fall, and the machine will go crazy...rapid up/down.

The .005" can also be used for just about any flap. Personally I like to do the entrance flaps with .007" or .008". I use both thicknesses because I like to order it in 100 foot strips, either 1.5" wide or 2.0" wide. Can't always get those widths in one or the other.

Chances are if you are looking to just fix your own flaps, you can buy pieces of the Blue Tempered 1095 Shim stock in 6"widths in lengths of either 50" or 25". 50" will cost between $20 and $30. 6" by 50" will easily do 75-100 flaps.

To cut out the flap. you can put some masking tape on the shim stock and simply trace out the shape as well as mark where the mounting holes should be.

The shape can be cut out with simple tin snips. I round the corners of the flaps on a belt sander.

Now I mentioned the need for the right tools. Tin snips...most people have them or can be easily purchased. To cut the holes in the flap for the rivet mounting or for the openings to screw the playfield down to the playfield, you cannot safely drill them. I use a metal punch set to put the holes in the flap. Harbor Freight has a pretty good one for around $39.... here's a link..

https://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-punch-and-die-set-95547.html

I have punched easily over 1000 holes at 1/8" diameter and it is still going strong...So for a home hobbyist, it will last a lifetime.

So now that you have the flap cut, you need to be able to rivet. I use both a rivet press and for the ones the rivet press can't reach, I use a hand held punch. With the hand held punch you just need to be able to solidly support the rivet head when hammering the bottom of the rivet to "roll" it over. I posted a video showing the use of the hand held punch here...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/swords-of-fury-custom-ramps/page/8

Brings us down to the last piece...the rivets. All the rivets are the same width (shaft) at 1/8". The type of rivets used are called Oval head Semi-tubular rivets. The thickness of the material being riveted determines the length of the rivet necessary. I stock these lengths primarily 3/16", 7/32", 1/4", 9/32" and 5/16".

In addition to the right rivets, you also need small washers to use when the bottom of the rivet would be against plastic....Just take a look under most any ramp. I use nickel coated steel rivets. I order each length of rivet in lots of 500 or 1000. PinRestore sells both the hand held rivet roll over tool (like the one in the video above) for $28 and a nice starter kit with rivets and washers for $30. I use nickel coated steel rivets, but Pin Restore uses nickel coated brass rivets. Both steel and brass will work fine.

Here is a link to the rivet page at PinRestore…

http://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html

9 months later
#638 4 years ago
Quoted from HowardHurtz:

Did the blue/red replacement ramp ever come to fruition? Is it still available? Any info is appreciated.

I just did a small batch and all sold out right away. I have three more formed that just need to be dyed which I will do in the next couple days.

#640 4 years ago
Quoted from HowardHurtz:

I want one! Please let me know when one becomes available--no rush.

Will do. Just to confirm...You want the Jackbot version, right?

2 months later
#669 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Well my Jackbot left the building so carry on guys.

BOOOOOO... Tell me it was to make room for something new!....or even a little more room for the Mustang.

1 year later
#778 3 years ago

One last blue/red mod?

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