Jack*Bot
Williams, 1995Quoted from gunstarhero:I always assumed the backboard flashers were the replacement for the orange topper on the pinbot cab myself.
That could very well be. Did the seperate bulbs in that blink? I've never seen one so I don't know.
I read they originally copied Pinbot playfield with flashers and old style ball lock saucer holes. JB played to fast with all the new technology and the balls would not lock half of the time. They had to change to the new locks pretty fast. They removed the 2 flashers probably to fit the new hardware (just guessing). Those first games are the sample games. I have serial number 11 and it has the new style locks (I havery game 1 or 10 dending on were they started the sequence). So from my game up to the end, they should be production run games. I bet there are only a handful of sample games out there.
My game has the colored arrows above keno squares and had the aqua plastic over the ramp. People originally thought that ment sample game. From looking at my game, It does not. See earlier pictures posted.
Started the day on good footing, I made a mini pf. Took about 3 hours and sure was fun, turned out 99.99% accurate. Only 2 problems, I didn't have enough mini posts and I don't have a riveter so putting the wireform attachment point metal piece on is gonna be a problem. I hate to buy a riveting tool for 2 rivets. Anybody know what size rivets? I used a oscillating drum sander with a 1 inch drum and man did that work slick. I cut the outline to within about 1/8 inch then used the sander to dial it in. Just needed a little hand sanding to get everything perfect. Now to remove the light board behind the tl for sanding and white repainting.
Got a major project started today also. I took the bb tl light board out, removed the socket wiring and all the hardware off and sanded both sides clean. I came up with a way to make sure the proper socket went in the proper hole. I started coating the back side with Triple Thick, when it drys I'm gonna block sand it and spray it again if need be. Once the back is done then I'll prime and paint the front flat white.
Seems like an awful amount of work for something that is unnecessary. You could have sprayed it with some old bulbs still in place to protect the sockets. Or just used a roller and removed the bulbs and the sockets would not have been affected. I mean, I'm trying to figure out the point of this project. Maybe you can explain it better? Good job on the mini playfield! You can get replacement posts from outlets online. I went to Titan to get my clear posts for the mini PF.
Quoted from TheCapn:Seems like an awful amount of work for something that is unnecessary. You could have sprayed it with some old bulbs still in place to protect the sockets. Or just used a roller and removed the bulbs and the sockets would not have been affected. I mean, I'm trying to figure out the point of this project. Maybe you can explain it better? Good job on the mini playfield! You can get replacement posts from outlets online. I went to Titan to get my clear posts for the mini PF.
That's the point, it's unnecessary but it's FUN to do. It was dirty and old looking, why leave it that way? I've got the time and like working with my hands being creative. If you think this kind of stuff is work I'd hate to see the condition of your games. 
I've been in the hobby for over 5 years, I think I know where to get the posts. 
Quoted from MustangPaul:That's the point, it's unnecessary but it's FUN to do. It was dirty and old looking, why leave it that way? I've got the time and like working with my hands being creative. If you think this kind of stuff is work I'd hate to see the condition of your games. I've been in the hobby for over 5 years, I think I know where to get the posts.
Just so you know the post on the mini pf are glued and screw, they are a bitch to replace LOL!!! I had to take out screw then score the bottom of the post with a hobby knife a couple times, then vicegrips and gently twist the post to get it off, LOL good luck, im glad I only had to replace 1.
Quoted from Casinorun:Just so you know the post on the mini pf are glued and screw, they are a bitch to replace LOL!!! I had to take out screw then score the bottom of the post with a hobby knife a couple times, then vicegrips and gently twist the post to get it off, LOL good luck, im glad I only had to replace 1.
That's one of the reasons I made a new pf. Those mini posts don't get any hard hits to warrant the need to glue AND screw them in place. Actually I'm glad they did glue them on cuz now I have a nice clear pf, not all fogged up from years of balls running over it. A pair of these are a must have if you want your stuff to turn out nice.
Fun working on the game today. My rails on the back of the game looked like crap so I made a new pair out of oak, a little bit wider and longer but that's OK.
I also sprayed a couple more coats of Triple Thick on the back of the bb light board. I think that's shiny enough. Now I'll wait a week or two to make sure it's dry and hard and I'll paint the front.
2 billion on mine, which is more than enough for my meager skill at this game. If I don't have a decent Casino Run i usually don't come close.
Quoted from Casinorun:Its all based on how well you play. Mine is at 4.5 billion.
I think mine is set at 3.5.
Quoted from 27dnast:I think mine is set at 3.5.
Wow, am i really that bad at this game?? My highest score is only a little over 3.5 billion haha.
Quoted from JReedie:Wow, am i really that bad at this game?? My highest score is only a little over 3.5 billion haha.
I think I've only topped that a couple of times. Jackbot is brutally fast - not an easy game at all!
I wanted mirror blades but there's zero clearance. I bought the ultra thin ones from Cointaker, pulled the playfield and am going to sand the 2 walls of the cabinet so I have some clearance for the mirrors and the pf. Shouldn't take long with 50 grit. Blades should be here in a few days then I can mark where to sand then have at it. Garage door openers com in handy for things other then opening the door. 
Officially in the club! This pin is a beauty. New decals and chromed molding, polished steel rails and lockbar, leds, new polished steel legs. Waiting for plastics as I got the usual one broke(repaired) and couple of others semi broken or faded. Bought it fully restored by a real pro local collector and seller, my only concern is what will happen when I raise the playfield, blades are really thin..but there is a micron space on each side . Did half an hour of fast play, everything seems 100% perfect but I'll test further. Wow this pin is really fast. I think I'm gonna play with some colored leds combinations, and I really would like a transparent mini PF, think that would be cool. Just waiting for final touches and final test play ...and I'll take it home.
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Quoted from Giulio:Officially in the club! This pin is a beauty. New decals and chromed molding, polished steel rails and lockbar, leds, new polished steel legs. Waiting for plastics as I got the usual one broke(repaired) and couple of others semi broken or faded. Bought it fully restored by a real pro local collector and seller, my only concern is what will happen when I raise the playfield, blades are really thin..but there is a micron space on each side . Did half an hour of fast play, everything seems 100% perfect but I'll test further. Wow this pin is really fast. I think I'm gonna play with some colored leds combinations, and I really would like a transparent mini PF, think that would be cool. Just waiting for final touches and final test play ...and I'll take it home.
Welcome to the club, dang that looks nice congrats. The mini pf is pretty simple to make, I made mine in about 3 hours, if your half way handy you should have no problem. Get some brown craft paper and slide it between the pf and the blades, that should help. Before you led it clean the underside of the inserts REAL good. Please don't color bomb your game, let the great plastic and pf art shine. I'll be putting on a couple double spot lights so the colors of the art show better. A pinsider is doing a new acrylic pf back board with graphics on it that we will be able to light up. Should be interesting to see and compare with that flat black one. I'll be getting the first one.
Quoted from MustangPaul:A pinsider is doing a new acrylic pf back board with graphics on it that we will be able to light up. Should be interesting to see and compare with that flat black one. I'll be getting the first one.
I'm interested in this!
Any details??
Quoted from gunstarhero:I'm interested in this!
Any details??
It's NinJaBooT who's making this, he makes the magnetic apron overlays (see picture). This week I sent him my board for a template so it will be a while, a few weeks at best. He does top notch work (I have his HS2 and BOP apron magnets too) so I expect this board is gonna be great too. Contact him and tell him your interested too. It's amazing he's doing these parts for such a low volume game such as ours, same with the new plastic set. We are VERY lucky to have these people in our corner.
Quoted from 27dnast:You have a link to an example of a light-up backboard?
No it's still in proto.
Quoted from Jimmyd044:Here's my sample Jackbot.
WOW that's nice, has that been redone?
Quoted from Giulio:Love the colored arrows of the sample model
I wonder why they took them out of the production game. 
The sample versions use a different mechanism to the lock balls under the visor and at the game saucer scoop. It's basically the same scoops on the original Pinbot. The flippers are much stronger on Jackbot and that caused a lot of rejections. Williams changed the mechanisms in the production versions. I had to adjust the ball scoops and apply drop dead foam in these locations and since then I have been experiencing fewer rejections. The artwork on my Jackbot is original with no fade.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Welcome to the club, dang that looks nice congrats. The mini pf is pretty simple to make, I made mine in about 3 hours, if your half way handy you should have no problem. Get some brown craft paper and slide it between the pf and the blades, that should help. Before you led it clean the underside of the inserts REAL good. Please don't color bomb your game, let the great plastic and pf art shine. I'll be putting on a couple double spot lights so the colors of the art show better. A pinsider is doing a new acrylic pf back board with graphics on it that we will be able to light up. Should be interesting to see and compare with that flat black one. I'll be getting the first one.
Thanks! Good point about colored leds, JB plastics are really cool by themselves, the new ones will shine even better. I'll try the brown craft paper trick for sure 
. When I get JB at home I'll start with my "paranoid" cleaning of everything and clean the underside of inserts. The more I play this pin the more I like it.
Why does everyone think the colored arrows and aqua plastic means it is a sample game? I have serial number 53351100011, probably one of the first ones out there. It has colored arrows and aqua plastic over the ramp. It also has the deep ball locks that has a plunger. From what I can tell it is a production model. They changed plastic color during production. Also used a different manufacturer on later runs to cut the playfields who just installed white arrows. Probably easier to stock one color than get 5 different colors.
I think the only way to know a real sample game is to see if it has the old blade type ball kickout. They probably did not make that many. Thus sample game. Make it, see what doesn't work, then fix it.
By the way, New plastics should be coming soon.
Quoted from Bkap:Why does everyone think the colored arrows and aqua plastic means it is a sample game? I have serial number 53351100011, probably one of the first ones out there. It has colored arrows and aqua plastic over the ramp. It also has the deep ball locks that has a plunger. From what I can tell it is a production model. They changed plastic color during production. Also used a different manufacturer on later runs to cut the playfields who just installed white arrows. Probably easier to stock one color than get 5 different colors.
I think the only way to know a real sample game is to see if it has the old blade type ball kickout. They probably did not make that many. Thus sample game. Make it, see what doesn't work, then fix it.
By the way, New plastics should be coming soon.
Good point. Yeah new plastics. Be nice if they made a 3d tl for the game too.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Well after about 2 hours of sanding I have one side of the cabinet sanded down so the mirror blade will actually sit behind the plastic pf glass channel a bit so the mirror won't get scratched when lifting or lowering the pf. Now to sand the other side.
Sucks you had to do all that. Mine went on without an issue. It is tight though, but they fit.
Quoted from TheCapn:Sucks you had to do all that. Mine went on without an issue. It is tight though, but they fit.
Yeah it wasn't to bad took about 5 hours total, made a nice mess in the shop though. Even with a sander with a filter cup on it, which I had to dump about 6 times it still made a mess and it's gonna be nice not having to worry about scratching the heck out of the blades. I just wish the new plastic set was done so I could start to put the pf back together. My pf hanging from the garage door opener looks like some kind of trophy fish hanging there.
I'm still trying to find out why the rising visor hits the plastic helmet on my game. I measured from the top of the center post before the eye locks to the raised visor and it's 2 7/8", is that consistent with what other people's games do?
The operation was a success. I lowered the pf in and didn't put a single scratch in the mirror blades. Sanding the sides of the cab was time consuming but it was well worth it, I can raise and lower my pf without fear of scratching the heck out them. I now have about 1/8 inch clearance on both sides. I used the thin mirrors from PBL which really helped.
I also installed 1-1/2 inch clear plastic Phillips head bolts I had made that I'm using to attach the out lane plastics. My hope is that they will pick up the light from under the plastics and light up the heads, we'll see. The out lane plastics don't really take hard hits and there's 4 plastic bolts holding them on so I don't think I'll have to worry about breaking them. I had 200 of the 8-32 bolts made so if anyone wants them they are $1 each.
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Thanks for posting, I'm getting a set FOR SURE!! Then I can start putting my game back together, I haven't put a single game on it since I bought it 3 months ago.
There were multiple artwork versions for the mini-playfield - one more colorful and one less colorful - we chose the more colorful mini-playfield art.
rick
Quoted from PPS:There were multiple artwork versions for the mini-playfield - one more colorful and one less colorful - we chose the more colorful mini-playfield art.
rick
I like the more colorful one, thanks Rick. No plastic protectors?
Quoted from Giulio:I did ordered too the same, set, visor decal, mini pf and extra spare casino run plastic, the most sought ever from almost all JB owners I think....Thanks Rick, also for fast mail replies
Great minds think alike.
Now how long will it take to get our orders?
Quoted from gunstarhero:Oh interesting, looks like I have a "less colorful" mini playfield:
Yeah me too. But now I'll have a more colorful one if I don't put the clear one on that I made. I like the clear one because I can see the pop bumpers and the great art in that area.
Quoted from MustangPaul:O hait till you guys see the mod that NinJaBooT has come up with for our game, it's GREAT!
I’m at your disposal 
Quoted from NinJaBooT:I’m at your disposal
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Saint Paul, MN
Chelmsford
Milano
From Rick@ppp, one hour ago: