Hard to see, you're tellin' me. There's the two with the large rubber ring across them along the left side of the entrance but I even shined a flashlight back in there and I'll be darned if I can see a third one near the eject hole or elsewhere. Where exactly is it, do you have a photo? Thanks!

Hi, where did you find the blue lane? It's definitively a touch of pinball class to a yet very nice and elegant pinball machine!

https://www.pinballinc.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=102
but I think other places have it too.

Just started collecting and glad to be part of the club.

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Nice! What's the story on the cool topper? I saw one that somebody made which is very similar to it in here, but the Bride was positioned differently. **Oops never mind, I see that Tilt Graphics sells them!

Maybe mine is just a franken and it is supposed to have a plain post there, but the casino plastic back corner near the jack bot's eye is supported by one of those red posts on mine. You have to look through the crack between the plastic and the visor to see it.

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Ohhh *there* it is, thanks. It's pretty obvious from the player's perspective now that I know where it is. It is actually much more visible than the other two because it's well lit by the nearby lamps so I will change it also.

Flipping thru pictures in this thread I noticed something that I couldn't find any mention of - - on the early JBs with the colored keno arrows & the different colored ramp plastic, it seems that the Casino Run arrow is yellow/orange instead of red. Personally I like the red better, Casino Run is a biggie and red looks more important.

One other color mod you might consider is yellow/blue/orange/green/red flasher domes on the backboard to match the grid insert and standup target colors, instead of the five orange domes. I'm not a big mod guy but this and the blue flipper lane guide were a no-brainer.

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A little simpler, but I like changing the five rubber post mounts to colors. Blue for the left ramp, Yellow, Orange, and Red for the ones under the visor, and Red for the one near the pop bumpers.

I really dig this. I wasnt a big fan of all the orange.

Look good, should have come from the factory like that.

Never play this game before but I will join this club tomorrow. My game will need some cleaning and some new LEDs very excited.

Congrats! I think it's a great game with some amazing music. An external subwoofer helps! Enjoy!

Yes, it is a fun game. I like it so far. This pin is all about risk and reward.

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Wow, amazing reds on that cabinet.

Hi HowardHurtz

I repainted the red and yellow with Sharpie pens and Q-tips. You will see a lot of pen strokes from red pen but less pen strokes from yellow pen.

Before
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I like the gambling part because you're deciding whether it's worth it to bet on yourself, your own shooting skills, not just some random casino outcomes. The rest of the game just 'fits' with the kind of gameplay I like, such as bashing the targets all day long to complete the matrix and advance to the next matrix and bank shots between the banks. And the more down-to-earth Pin-Bot playfield with only one ramp instead of a ton of 'em nor any underground habitrails, where you have to wait around for the ball to always comes back out in a predetermined place.

Or just hit the lit Keno arrow and save yourself a lot of time

Well said. I wish this game can have a real slot machine like WHO DUNNIT. On the other hand, I really like a casino run Wizard mode.

Looking to pick up a very nice example next weekend. Anyone here put together an LED list?

Nah. Less is more on this pin. One of my favorites!

Unfortunately I don't have a list for you, but just wanted to comment that this game really dazzles when properly done up with LED--probably more than most WPC games. I recommend you stick with cool white for this one.

Thanks ! Plan to do led OCD for the inserts , I usually like “sunlight white “ but I can see cool looking good on this one

Sure, if it's your first shot at a fresh rack, with no ball locked yet, and you don't miss. The harder the difficulty settings are the sooner you'll have to begin 'bashing' at 'em to complete the matrix as the game progresses too.

I didn't go whole hog, just led'd the blue and green inserts since they're pretty dark, and a few GI lamps that are tucked way in back and hidden. And those five card inserts too with the solid white artwork on them, they GOTTA have leds. With regular bulbs they are the most pathetically dim inserts I ever saw even in the dark. Maybe it's because a lot of the light is reflected back off of the white artwork instead of getting thru them.

I put the new star posts in today. Looks "cool", this PinBot-esque mod does work. After 40 years I finally have a truly politically divided pinball. Blue on one side and red on the other. They're even on the correct sides - blue is left, red is right. I'm a total artwork dodo really, never noticed PB and JB's blue vs. red motifs until I saw it pointed out in here and I've had this JB for many years. Either that or I'm colorblind!

Next -- gotta hunt up the five different color flasher domes, that one looks like it works too.

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One last blue/red mod?

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I'm limiting mine to exchanging red factory parts with blue factory parts. Pinbot's ramp is blue with blue and red decals, JB is black with blue and red decals. Jackbot's black is plain ol' black of course but it actually makes more sense to me than Pinbot's as far as the red vs. blue thing. Pinbot went and picked sides with the ramp and made the whole thing one of the two magical 'bot' colors, that biased robot.

Agree with this. I put some color in the GI and ultimately pulled it all in favor of cool white.

Install some super bright flashers in the helmet.

But it's also got the red spiral ramp to even things out.

True. I think if I had a Pinbot, that bi-color ramp would be the ultimate mod as far as the red on this side and blue on that side scheme, would be totally complete.

I picked up one of Freeplay40 ramps.
What's the best way to remove the old decals (to reuse)?

In the club ... super clean jack-bot . Supposedly HUO. Left side has some fade and a nick on the head , right side looks new . Cabinet and playfield super clean . I did notice the visor does not go up ... bank goes down and the plastic under the visor appears to slide forward but the visor stays down. Hopefully and easy fix .

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The visor plastic is tough to find so be careful with that delicate 25 y.o. plastic!

Will do ! Plastic seems in great shape game looks basically new. Motor works and bank goes down from what I can tell looking in manual the bank actuates and arm so I assume that is not connected .

If the visor seems to move up and down freely and straight by hand, might just be a rivet for the raising arm in the back of the visor came loose, or the plastic broke at one of those two corners and needs repairing.

The visor is being remade by Freeplay40 . Works great.

Just look for the angled control arms that attach to the visor sides. They move when the targets move, one for each side of the visor. Might just be a missing hairpin.

Found the issue , this pin came out . Luckily it was still in the game under the ramp .

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So here is my other issue , I need to understand how the ramp works . The coil the unlocks the ramp has a bad transistor so I will get that replaced . But I manually actuate it to test , what makes the ramp go back down after it unlatches ? Is it supposed to be gravity? If so mine is binding. Here is a video .

I think it's just gravity. When you either pull on that upper lever or lift up on the ramp itself, before it latches, everything should flop back down from it's own weight. So looks like yours probably just needs a drop of oil, shouldn't be any binding in the lever action or ramp.

**Correction**, the 'up' solenoid plunger & return spring is what pushes the ramp back down. But assuming yours is present, it's just sticky at the pivot.

Yea thats what I thought, will figure out why it's sticking. I dont think anyone has maintained this machine in 25 years.Its surprisingly clean given that fact. Once we are done with it its gonna look almost new!

Take a look at page 2-21 of the manual. There is one solenoid and one relay, #6 which is the large AE-26-1200 coil which is the solenoid action, and #14 which is a narrow SM1-26-600 coil which is part of a relay.

#6 energizes and pulls in the plunger downward which pulls the control arm forward or counterclockwise, let's say. The ramp is lifted up by this. The plunger stays inside the coil but it is not energized - a notch in the control arm hooks to a latch controlled by relay #14 which holds the ramp up.

To lower it #14 pops the latch which allows #6's spring to push it's plunger out allowing the ramp to be pushed back with a little gravity assist.

It is a super tight mech and it makes sense when you mess with it a whole bunch. It has to be super duper clean, the arm has to be straight with very little play, and the ramp can't rub up against anything when it raises or lowers.

Yeah... take it apart, clean with rubbing alcohol, reassemble... you’re good to go.

Don’t just dump some lubricant on it

I had ramp intermittently sticking up on mine a while ago. I don't have the machine or diagrams in front of me right now but I remember the issue was too much gap between the bracket flange and the magnet that pulls it down. I bent the bracket slightly using pliers to close the gap and it has been flawless for at least a thousand plays since. Make sure the machine is off before trying as that's a congested area and its easy to accidentally cause a short with your tools.

Thinks it’s good now thanks all !!

Anyone know where to get this cool decal ?

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That’s not a decal... it’s backlit. I forget the name of the guy that sells those

Where the 5 flashers are ? Looks cool.