(Topic ID: 96677)

The Official EM Gottlieb Jumping Jack / Jack in the Box Club - Admirers Welcome!


By swampfire

5 years ago



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  • 100 posts
  • 41 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 84 days ago by woz
  • Topic is favorited by 16 Pinsiders

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There are 100 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 4 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

Not sure why you'd say this. It's much easier to change out the drop targets once you've done this mod, and it has zero impact on how the game plays. I've made the game easier to work on for the next owner. Gottlieb fixed this design flaw (starting with Black Hole) by leaving that area open. See Clay's discussion here:
http://www.pinrepair.com/restore/jjpf.htm#targets

I agree. i made that mode myself and no problems at all.

#52 4 years ago

Some of us like to keep things original when feasible; it's not a reversible change without swapping back in original, unmodified parts. It looks bad to have the edges cut and the filings make a mess, and it would have been faster to just loosen the screws and replace all the targets at once (with a little practice).

Personally, I don't see the point in going this route; the mod really isn't necessary, and ruins a perfectly good original part to try and save a very little amount of time. Drop targets don't break so frequently as to expect to need to replace the same ones repeatedly.

But, it has nothing to do with playing the games of course. It only makes collectors (like me) cringe.

Opinions on the matter differ of course...

#53 4 years ago

Looks totally factory after the mod; you can't even see where the cut was made because it's covered by the back plate (which gives the mechanism plenty of strength). The next time you have to replace a target in the middle of the bank, you'll see why a slot is nice to have there.

#54 4 years ago

I just replaced my Target Alpha banks - and also agree that you really don't have to cut anything. What I did to provide more room in the frame to get those targets in and out, is replace the machine screws that hold the frame together, with longer screws, and just screwed them in enough to hold... that way the frame gives much more, allowing the targets to come out with ease... I did all that work in about 25 minutes, easy squeezy - with no cuts.

Also a proud owner of a Jumping Jack - long term owner; still play it too.

#55 4 years ago

Anyone have a Jumping Jack head that you could part with to make some cash???... head only would be optimal... but I'd take a fully populated one... Stupidly bought a JITB with an awesome cabinet to make one awesome JJ... only issue is that I didn't take into account that a JITB head is too large to fit a JJ backglass! DOH.

#56 4 years ago

Played Jumping jack extensively at the NW pin show, great game & by far my favorite backglass!
I want one.

#57 4 years ago
Quoted from Dono:

Anyone have a Jumping Jack head that you could part with to make some cash???... head only would be optimal... but I'd take a fully populated one... Stupidly bought a JITB with an awesome cabinet to make one awesome JJ... only issue is that I didn't take into account that a JITB head is too large to fit a JJ backglass! DOH.

Mike Berger came through with a nice JJ head - thanks MIKE!!!!

#58 4 years ago
Quoted from Dono:

I just replaced my Target Alpha banks - and also agree that you really don't have to cut anything. What I did to provide more room in the frame to get those targets in and out, is replace the machine screws that hold the frame together, with longer screws, and just screwed them in enough to hold... that way the frame gives much more, allowing the targets to come out with ease... I did all that work in about 25 minutes, easy squeezy - with no cuts.
Also a proud owner of a Jumping Jack - long term owner; still play it too.

I'm still a relative newbie to the hobby (6 months and only 5 games) and I just swapped out all 9 drop targets on my Vulcan project over the weekend and it went fine without any cutting. I agree that if you loosen the frame (either with longer screws as described above, or just loosening the existing ones as far as possible without removing them, the old targets come out / new targets go in relatively easily). This was not hard. Somewhat tedious, and took me about 40 minutes per bank, but not hard and no permanent mod to the game.

#59 4 years ago
Quoted from goldenboy232:

I'm still a relative newbie to the hobby (6 months and only 5 games) and I just swapped out all 9 drop targets on my Vulcan project over the weekend and it went fine without any cutting. I agree that if you loosen the frame (either with longer screws as described above, or just loosening the existing ones as far as possible without removing them, the old targets come out / new targets go in relatively easily). This was not hard. Somewhat tedious, and took me about 40 minutes per bank, but not hard and no permanent mod to the game.

I agree. No need to modify the drop target frame. It's just not that difficult.

#60 4 years ago

Honestly, either approach to swapping out the drops is fine.

#61 4 years ago

Seems to me that having to make 20 cuts in metal is WAY too much work?

#62 4 years ago

With a cutoff disk and a Dremel, it goes pretty fast.

#63 4 years ago

Well, have to laugh at my predicament... I have a JJ, with a poorly painted cabinet - it looks ok, but there was no webbing applied and it looks bad next to my current lineup of original cabs... anyway, I bought a Jack in the Box so I could swap cabs, as the JITB cabinet is in fabulous original shape. Well, not such a great idea - the cabinet heads on the 2 games are NOT the same size, as the 4 player is higher to accommodate the 2 extra sets of score reels. One other issue I now have, is that since this game was designed for export to MONDIAL, it has a different lock-down bar and associated lock mechanism... keep this in mind if you're doing swaps of like games!

Don O

3 weeks later
#64 4 years ago

Selling my very nice restored Jumping Jack. Cabinet repaint, all new PF plastics, posts, flipper bats, pop bumper bodies and caps, drop targets. New front door, lockdown bar, coin entry, legs, PF glass, flipper coils and more. Completely gone through to work great. Repro translite alternate topless girls BG or a repro silk screened BG (your choice or you can buy the second glass as well).
This is not an over the top restoration where every mechanical part has been ultra-sounded, buffed, plated etc. They have been cleaned & adjusted, etc.
Additional photos available. $1700
thanks,
izzy

game.jpg

front.jpg

head.jpg

targets.jpg

pf.jpg

#65 4 years ago

All that work and you put the wrong bumper bodies and skirts on???

#66 4 years ago

how right you are. didn't check the database. I'm going to change them. thx.

1 month later
#67 4 years ago

Just joined the club today. My JJ has a beautiful restored playfield with all refreshed plastics and other bits. The cabinet could use a refreshed but it has a new shay backglass so all of the parts you spend time looking at are perfect.

It is doing some weirdness where the saucers don't light the 10x but it does award the 3k and the 10x does come on for the last ball . It will be interesting figuring this out as it's my first em.

1 year later
#68 2 years ago

Does anyone know where I can print out the paper relay strips in the belly of Jumping Jack? Thanks for any help

2 weeks later
#69 2 years ago

Hi all I just picked up a jumping jack yesterday(150$)
Playfield is nice back glass is flaking got it running but needs cleaning!

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1 month later
#70 2 years ago

I have a mini Jumping Jack backglass that I need some information on. Just trying to figure out if this was some type of promotional item or if this was used in pre-production to get an idea what the glass would look like. It's made of glass and the graphics appear to be on a paper that was adhered to the glass. Would this have been a step in the development of the game before they went to full size production? Hope you guys have some ideas because I'm stumped!

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#71 2 years ago

i know a guy that reproduces bg and the printer makes small ones like that to check colors and alignment. once the customer looks at the small test one and Ok's everything then it will get printed in the larger size.
i think this is done to was material
i don't think screeners do this. they would have to make a bunch of mini screens to do each color
so i would think someone had a printer make them a bg and this was the test piece
just speculation on my part

#72 2 years ago

Minor JJ tech question... what happens in your game when you go into the unlit scoop? Does it score points (500), or does it just eject?

Mines scoring 500 points in the unlit scoop, and someone pointed out that is wrong. Thanks.

1 year later
#73 1 year ago

I have two quarter coin mechanisms that are possibly from the JITB I sold recently. Does anyone have coin mechanisms from a JJ or JITB to compare to these? I want to be sure the buyer gets them if they belong with the machine. One of them has the numbers D-52-3-10 and 61056 on the sides.

Thanks,
Bruce

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#74 1 year ago

For the most part, that style coin mech is generic. 3" x 5" body. Just depends on what denomination you need 5 cent, 10 cent or 25 cent (US quarter). Canadian quarter mechs are missing the magnet.

#75 1 year ago

Thanks for the info. Much appreciated. These quarter coin mechanisms are probably from the JITB. I'm going to give them to the buyer and ask him to let me know if they don't work.

#76 1 year ago

Never knew this was so popular... Guess I will make my machine my next restoration project
Doomer

#77 1 year ago

I have a bgresto JACK IN THE BOX backglass for sale as I bought a SHAY replacement. $100.00 + shipping

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#78 1 year ago
Quoted from Doomer:

Never knew this was so popular... Guess I will make my machine my next restoration project
Doomer

It's a great game. Simple playfield and rules but challenging gameplay, most of the time you just don't get all the drop targets down so want to play another game.
Sold mine and really miss it

#79 1 year ago
Quoted from scooterking:

I have a bgresto JACK IN THE BOX backglass for sale as I bought a SHAY replacement. $100.00 + shipping

SOLD !

#80 1 year ago

I'll probably get a chance to try out the JITB I sold recently after the buyer restores it. He only lives 10 minutes from me.

#81 1 year ago

Question if I put the game on 3 ball everything works fine .after 3 ball drain game go to game over, ball stays in out hole,match # lits up. NOW if I put on 5 ball game, 5th ball drains,game go to game over BUT ball shoot out into shooter as if it was the 6th ball, trouble in reset bank? any help would be great.

#82 1 year ago

OK JJ owners. I just powered on my JJ. All fuses good. No power to playfield at all. Back box has player 1 light and tilt. Transformer looks crispy. Don't have a schematic yet (just sent for one). Game does not start with credits on the credit unit. Any ideas or help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Doomer

#83 1 year ago
Quoted from scooterking:

Question if I put the game on 3 ball everything works fine .after 3 ball drain game go to game over, ball stays in out hole,match # lits up. NOW if I put on 5 ball game, 5th ball drains,game go to game over BUT ball shoot out into shooter as if it was the 6th ball, trouble in reset bank? any help would be great.

Thanks for all your help 0 :^) anyhow I got her running right !!!!

#84 1 year ago

Doomer, did you plug in the Jones plugs from the PF to the main board in the lower coffin cabinet?

4 months later
#85 1 year ago

Hi guys! Trawling a Swedish pinball group on Facebook, somebody wanted to identify the pin in the picture. The picture is taken in Spain or Italy in the 80s. Same stencils as Jumping Jack/Jack In The Box, but only one player. Can it be a licence/bootleg of sorts? Any leads?

39223296_1922368201400366_7190418497871020032_n (resized).jpg
#86 1 year ago

I wonder how many games here have well adjusted popbumpers ?

When I had my JITB it had powerful pops, switch was adjusted quite sensitive.. which made for a fun gameplay, when the pinball got between the popbumper and the rubber edge it would bounce around and with a little nudge you could get it bounce upwards and back into the playfield.

At someone elses place I also played a jitb and his popbumpers were less fun - either the rubber was worn, popbumper not powerful or not sensitive enough, but when the pinball got to the side of the bumper it would always end in a drain. The pinball would bounce between the side rubber and bumper, but each time mroe towards the bottom and you couldn't get it back up on the playfield. The owner probably didn't know better..

So I wonder how many people here with this game adjust their popbumpers so you can rescue the pinball ?

#87 1 year ago

Archieball, that single player is Jumping Jack by Maresa of Spain. Some info on the Internet Pinball Machine Database, including a pic of the sales flyer.

1 month later
#88 1 year ago

My jumping jack has one drop target that seems to catch on the metal frame and doesn't want to go down. I disassembled the whole unit and rebuilt it but this one target just isn't work right. I can't see any obvious solution. Anyone have an issue like this? I am tempted to file down the hole where the target sits so it will fall smoother.

#89 1 year ago

Look at the switch tension on the backside of the target. You can apply a little superlube between the switch blade and the actuator.

#90 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeO:

Look at the switch tension on the backside of the target. You can apply a little superlube between the switch blade and the actuator.

Ok I'll try this. I'm having a hard time figuring out where it's binding. It worked perfectly when it was on the bench.

#91 1 year ago
Quoted from fattdirk:

Ok I'll try this. I'm having a hard time figuring out where it's binding. It worked perfectly when it was on the bench.

This was it. Works great! Thanks again!

#92 1 year ago

Glad we could help.

#93 12 months ago

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Here is a game I am restoring for a customer
Haveing trouble with 2nd player and AX match Relay no number appears when game over relay working doring game.

Can someone take a picture of the player unit Starting point.
Player one works but when I press for two players relay engauges and #2 lights up on backglass
#1 player lights up as well as first ball light on BG and scores.
when ball drains player unit advances and lights up #1 player again and scores, but no ball number shows.

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#94 12 months ago
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3 months later
#95 8 months ago

So back on the subject of drop targets. Bought JJ from pics only and had delivered. Had a broken clown target and seller nicely ordered set of three to replace it. Two problems. First new are slightly lighter yellow than old. Should I order enough to replace all, or look for used one? Second, used new one for now, replaced without modifying. And now half of drops stick part way down. After sticking problem started, adjusted all switches to as light a touch as possible, little help. Ideas?

3 months later
#96 4 months ago

Hey guys, also a big fan of JITB. The first em pin I got 15 years ago and was the first one I did basic restoration on. Came out really well and was made an offer from a friend I couldn't refuse. As the years past I really regretted selling it and found a JJ for cheap. Got it going and is a decent looker and great player also. I decided this time I will not let it go and searched for one with a better playfield (no/less planking) and backglass (no/less flaking). I found a Big Indian that I was interested in and the guy had this "project" JITB that he would throw in the deal. This turned out to be a great deal for me as the JITB has a way better looking playfield than my JJ. The cabinet had been repainted solid white,, rusty coin door/chute, and no legs. Backglass is in good shape and it does play well. I want to make one great looking machine out of the two. Are the populated playfields interchangeable? I would like to make my JJ the keeper as it's cabinet, coin door, and etc, are in better shape and plays 100%. I know I would have to get a repo backglass, but this would be my best route. Thanks in advance to all...

#97 4 months ago
Quoted from pinball_ed:

Hey guys, also a big fan of JITB. The first em pin I got 15 years ago and was the first one I did basic restoration on. Came out really well and was made an offer from a friend I couldn't refuse. As the years past I really regretted selling it and found a JJ for cheap. Got it going and is a decent looker and great player also. I decided this time I will not let it go and searched for one with a better playfield (no/less planking) and backglass (no/less flaking). I found a Big Indian that I was interested in and the guy had this "project" JITB that he would throw in the deal. This turned out to be a great deal for me as the JITB has a way better looking playfield than my JJ. The cabinet had been repainted solid white,, rusty coin door/chute, and no legs. Backglass is in good shape and it does play well. I want to make one great looking machine out of the two. Are the populated playfields interchangeable? I would like to make my JJ the keeper as it's cabinet, coin door, and etc, are in better shape and plays 100%. I know I would have to get a repo backglass, but this would be my best route. Thanks in advance to all...

Yes, the playfields are directly interchangeable. Plug and play.

The head relay boards and the main relay boards ARE NOT interchangeable.

I hope the leftover game goes to someone who will keep it going instead of parting it out. JJ/JitB are great games.

#98 4 months ago

I love mine. Unfortunately I only play it when it's head-to-head. Best EM? Close!

2 months later
#99 84 days ago

Can anyone help me sort my JJ kick out holes?

The lights alternate correctly, and the left hole scores correctly when lit/unlit.

But the right hole doesn't score at all - either lit or unlit. Can anyone guide me to a likely area to check - I have a schematic, but unfortunately not the knowledge to understand it fully!

#100 84 days ago
Quoted from swtrains:

Can anyone help me sort my JJ kick out holes?
The lights alternate correctly, and the left hole scores correctly when lit/unlit.
But the right hole doesn't score at all - either lit or unlit. Can anyone guide me to a likely area to check - I have a schematic, but unfortunately not the knowledge to understand it fully!

Does the J relay operate when you close the right hole switch?

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