(Topic ID: 138454)

J115 Pins have no power - Fishtales

By JosephT

8 years ago



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  • 7 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by JosephT
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 8 years ago

Hello all, I've been trying to figure out reset issues that suddenly cropped up on a FT. When measuring TP2 I was showing 5v but at pin 32 on the game rom, I was only getting 4.72v

Following the pinwiki guide it says to check all your molex connections starting with j114. When I pulled off j115, I noticed the topmost pin (brown wire) area was pretty crispy. With that molex unplugged, I turned on the machine and measured a full 5v at both TP2 and the game rom, but of course all my GI is out on the game. I then tried to put the crispy molex back on the machine but the GI wouldnt come back on, no matter what I did and by now the j115 molex was starting to break apart at the crispy end.

Just now I replaced the bad molex with a fresh one but still no GI and none of the J115 pins are showing any voltage readings. I checked all fuses in the game and all is good there. Fuse 115 is showing 12 volts on both sides of the fuse.

Is my next step to pull the board and check the solder joints to those J115 pins? I'm hoping I can check something else before pulling the board out.

Thanks in advance!

#2 8 years ago

Are you measuring AC Volts, one lead on a yellow wire, the other lead on a yellow/white wire?

PS: J115 doesn't have a brown wire...

[EDIT]: Did you mean J120? Then you should be reading AC Volts between pins 1 & 7, 2 & 8, and 5 & 10.

FT DB Conns.jpgFT DB Conns.jpg

#3 8 years ago

No it is j115. My wires don't match what the manual says. Apparently they (williams) originally followed that pic from the manual but then changed it up later on.

The game is sitting at my work so I can't mess with stuff till tomorrow morning. Just to be clear, the game is firing up with no errors but all GI is out and all solenoids and flashers. I'm gonna double check to make sure the ribbon cables are where they need to be and make sure when testing the J115 pins, that I was set to AC (pretty sure I was).

I was testing by holding my negative to the games ground (lower left corner of the backbox where all grounds come together) and putting the positive lead to the pins.

#4 8 years ago

No, you have to measure AC pin-to-pin. So measure from pin 1 to 7, 2 to 8, 3 to 9, 5 to 10, 6 to 11 and then 12 to any of 8-11.

This is if the circuits are the same and only the color of the wires is different...

#5 8 years ago

OK, I will check this in the morning tomorrow. I will post back, thanks!

#6 8 years ago

Williams changed up the GI wiring colors, J115 could have the yellow & yellow/white wires of the manual, or the green, brown, purple, orange that this one has.

J115 will need to be rebuilt, both sides, and if it's as crispy as it sounds, you'll need to rebuild some of the traces/thru-holes or run jumpers.

Your resetting will have nothing to do with J115, and if solenoids and flashers are now not working either, then you've dislodged the ribbon cable from the driver board to the CPU.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#7 8 years ago
Quoted from Borygard:

Your resetting will have nothing to do with J115, and if solenoids and flashers are now not working either, then you've dislodged the ribbon cable from the driver board to the CPU.

So I got to work this morning and carefully reseated the ribbon cable you mentioned and the game fired right up. First thing I did was measure the 5v at TP2 and pin 32 on the game rom and they both read the same now (4.98)

I know you said that J115 would have nothing to do with my reset problems but before I replaced J115 with a fresh molex, I was losing 3 tenths of a volt at the game rom and now I am not.

I only got to play one full game but it was a long one (dont have lightning flips on this guy). No reset issue yet. I'll post back any findings.

Thanks for the help!

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