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(Topic ID: 252065)

Not a simple Flash restore

By mark532011

4 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 175 posts
  • 32 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Da-Shaker
  • Topic is favorited by 29 Pinsiders

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#48 4 years ago
 
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gdonovan

Pinside member

7y 185K 13,205 70

Quoted from rufessor:

You- and multiple others seeing the same reaction- have proven beyond a doubt that rattle can clear coat is not fully catalyzed. Thats an inferior product.

Sparymax 2k IS a 2 part product that works just fine, I have used it myself for filling in inserts and low spots as the OP with no ill effects.

Something else is going on, there is another product on the playfield that is reacting causing this. The OP mentioned Diamond Clear being used which is where I suspect the problem lies.

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#50 4 years ago
 
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gdonovan

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7y 185K 13,205 70

Quoted from topkat:

Do you find its easier/better to use the spray for clearing small areas? I have a can of the diamond max clear and its difficult to get it smooth and flat with a brush or foam applicator.

I have only done complete PF so can't say.

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#59 4 years ago
 
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gdonovan

Pinside member

7y 185K 13,205 70

OP
Quoted from mark532011:

Some progress but still a long way to go.
Since I have been having so many problems with the diamond clear, I junked it and I sprayed on a thick coat of spraymax 2K. I don't know if its surface tension or what but it refuses to flow down into the cracks around the inserts. Looks like its time to drip into the cracks.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Surface tension, yes this is normal. If slight you can leave it be or spray into a cup and use an eyedropper to fill.

Let it dry and then sand flat.

2 months later
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#129 4 years ago
 
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gdonovan

Pinside member

7y 185K 13,205 70

OP
Quoted from mark532011:

The playfield is essentially complete! I say essentially because the ring kit I purchased came with a 4.5" ring instead of the 5" ring that table specifies. I've got a 5" ring on order, also some blue LED's to experiment and see how it looks.
[quoted image]
.
Right now I have 2 issues:
Problem (1) there is something strange that I can't find the source of but the table does not look square. You can see it by looking at the wood back piece, it looks lower on the left side than the right and I don't think it is an optical illusion (red circle)[quoted image]
.
Problem (2) While none of the plastics are actually broken, and to be honest, they are in pretty good shape, they are seriously warped, so my next test is to try and straighten them without melting them![quoted image][quoted image]

I use a heat gun to get them good and hot and then slip between to heavy pieces of mirror and plain paper I recycled for the purpose. Be warned if you use something besides glass any imperfections will transfer over to the plastic.

2 weeks later
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#143 4 years ago
 
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gdonovan

Pinside member

7y 185K 13,205 70

OP
Quoted from mark532011:

My clear plastic sheets came in so I am going to take a stab at rebuilding that broken plastic. I also put it all back together and played a few (hundred) games. Back when I first looked at it, the backglass didn't look bad from the front. But looking closer, there is a lot of cracking and viewed with the lights behind it, it is pretty bad:
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
.
I know that replacements are available for such a popular game, so I might try my hand at some repairs to it while I keep an eye out on eBay..who knows

Most of that I could repair, the womans face would be the difficult area.

Here is a Blackout I just finished, mostly for the practice and working out new techniques. Took me about 2 weeks and I bet I could still pick at it another day. The lit areas are always the hardest to make look good.

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#145 4 years ago
 
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gdonovan

Pinside member

7y 185K 13,205 70

Quoted from zacaj:

What kind of paint is that?

About 4 or 5 different ones! There is enamel, oil based, acrylic and some rattle can I'm unsure of for good measure. Depends on what area I'm working in and if light shines through or not.

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#148 4 years ago
 
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gdonovan

Pinside member

7y 185K 13,205 70

OP
Quoted from mark532011:

That is really nice! I figured I would start with opaque black, that should be relatively easy to match...lol

Its ok, I'm continuing to hone my craft. On this one I started using wet/dry sanding paper to level sections of touchup, stencils, different types and thicknesses of paint and experimenting with rattle cans.

I see an air brush setup in my near future. Enjoy doing the work, I find it relaxing.

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#150 4 years ago
 
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gdonovan

Pinside member

7y 185K 13,205 70

Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

The glass on my laserball is bad. I've shot it with triple thick and experimented with water based acrylics for the red circles and don't like the results. I've purchased a bunch of different colored theater lighting gels and will be seeing what that looks like shortly. I've seen it on other glasses and it made a terrible glass presentable.

One area I want to experiment with an air brush and enamel thinned out so it levels better.

1 week later
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#166 4 years ago
 
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gdonovan

Pinside member

7y 185K 13,205 70

Quoted from g94:

That would be my approach as well. But I'd test it first on another piece of glass, just to make sure it's possible to airbrush such translucent red with acceptable results.

With an airbrush should be no problem and consider using colored LEDs which can help even out slight differences in hues. I'd red led behind that title.

I did a bunch of green touchup on the Lizard logo and have 4 green LED behind it, judge for yourself.

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#172 4 years ago
 
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gdonovan

Pinside member

7y 185K 13,205 70

Try red frosted led behind the Flash logo, it will look much better. Great job!

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