(Topic ID: 291468)

It's Time to Talk About CGC / Remake Flippers

By CrazyLevi

3 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
up (resized).jpg
down (resized).jpg
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
tenor.gif
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
There are 429 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 9.
#151 3 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Heres the thing - i would assume most original AFM/MM/MB's by now have fully re-placed flipper mechs. Maybe original coils, but everything else, including baseplates replaced. Definitely any restored AFM/MM/MB's would have.
Maybe just the baseplate is still the same on some original AFM's.
I would also assume most of the flipper re-builds are using identical parts to the remakes - same factory/distributor etc etc. In fact woudnt PPS be supplying mechs for the remakes?
So where's the difference if any? The coil?
Has anywone tried replacing the complete mechs for the CGC remakes to the ones available for sale (that would be in most original AFM/MM/MB)?
Curious - I might give it a go.

It is as simple as this:

Years ago someone bent the base plate to give the flipper extra travel. It is really easy to do, I have tried it myself. Most people that rebuild flippers do not change the base plate.

Then you get:

"I have been in the hobby for 30 years and rebuilt 100s of flippers. The old games have more stroke than the new games. I know what I am talking about because I am an expert"

Part numbers are the same. If you go to PPS website to buy new flipper mechs, all the parts listed are for original and genuine games. Same parts same part numbers.

Years ago I swapped out complete flipper assemblys on a HS2. Sure as shit, I noticed straight away that the flipper travel on the new mech was less than the old one. I thought I bought the wrong stuff. Pulled everything apart looking for the difference. I rang the guy I bought the game from to see if he could help out... His response was "I bent the base plate bracket that has the rubber stop in it to give more flipper travel. we all do it, you should try it too."

-4
#152 3 years ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

If you are a TL;DR guy, you may want to avoid this one, so be forewarned. It's a complicated issue and it needs the swollen word count to properly articulate.
Over the past several years, I have played a decent sampling of CGC remake machines, mostly Attack From Mars, which is not only my favorite game, but has been omnipresent at locations and in tournaments since it was released in 2018.
Like many, I always wondered why the games ship with such a strange flipper alignment. For all the effort and expense that went in to producing a high-quality reproduction that looks just like the original and seems to be of high build quality, I always thought it was odd that the flipper stroke is much shorter than the original production machine, with flippers that appear to reach only about 60 to 70 percent or so has high as the original flippers when fully extended.
As a tournament player, this required a significant adjustment. The ball was more difficult to trap now, and center area shots were also changed drastically and more difficult to hit.
On the other side, orbit and side ramps were now much easier, or at least much more common with a "missed" shot. And, successful ski passes were incredibly easy, with even the slowest inlane ball rolling lazily up a fully extended flipper and drifting gracefully over to the other flipper.
Tournament players would frequently note this, and sometimes it was used in a "the remakes aren't as good as the originals because the flippers are weird" argument. My response was always, "well that's true, but if I owned the game I'd just fix the flipper stroke/alignment, like I have to do the majority of the time I get a used game into my shop." Still, it was always in the back of my mind how strange it was that these remakes, apparently designed to original spec, and using similar parts as the originals, would be so strangely set up from the factory.
This month, I acquired an AFM SE remake, and to be honest, I did it pretty cheaply. As it's my favorite game, I was intrigued by the idea of keeping this mint condition AFM and dumping my well-loved "players" example that I've had for many years, while still coming out ahead a generous amount in the cash department. With the gorgeous, mint condition playfield, cabinet, and everything else, and with the larger color screen and upgraded graphics and the greatly improved sound/speakers, it was an exciting development that this machine basically fell into my lap.
I set up my new AFM, did a light cleaning, and played a ball. I was immediately struck by how short the flipper stroke was. While I expected it, this one was even more severe than other examples I'd played, and the stroke was uneven, with the right flipper stroke even shorter than the left. I turned the game off and went about fixing the alignment, as I always figured I'd do if I ever ended up with one of these remakes.
So, I lifted the playfield, loosened the WPC-style pawls, and raised the flippers 10-15 degrees or so to make them extend to the same height as my original AFM machine. Then, I bent back the plunger stop brackets slightly with pliers to extend the stroke, and make the flippers drop back to normal alignment in their resting state. The whole operation took me about 10 minutes, and now I was ready to play. And play I did, for an hour. Later that night, I had a group of friends over, and we played it all night. After they all left, I cleaned up all the empties, turned off all my other machines, (giving the remake ample time to chill out and cool down) and played another game of the new AFM. Then, for the first time that day, I played my original.
The difference, frankly, was night and day. The original AFM flippers (and keep in mind these haven't been rebuilt in about 5 years) were incredibly snappy, with a consistent strength, power, and feel that distributed equal power to all of the shots whether in single ball or multiball play. Both side shots and up the middle shots were lightning fast, accurate, and consistent.
In comparison, the remake flippers felt sluggish, and inconsistent ESPECIALLY on the wide shots. The wider the shot (the left and right ramp, or the oribits), the spongier and slower the shots felt. This was much more noticeable in multiball play, with weaker shots, and even an occasional partial "collapse" of an extended flipper, like you'd see sometimes on an old Data East or Sega game. The flippers, in effect, reminded me much more of Spooky flippers than classic W/B flippers. It was nothing I couldn't get used to or work with, but I'd say the play and flipper feel was inferior to the original. Now, that's opinion, and any particular player may feel one way or the other about it, but for me, the conclusion was inescapable: At the very least, the flippers on the remakes vs. the originals is noticeably DIFFERENT, whether or not the owner corrects the flipper stroke to original spec.
Playing both of the games some more, while at the same time getting a little more stoned (hey it's legal now, I had no choice!) I came to another conclusion: The reason these CGC games ship with such a short, non-orginal flipper stroke/alignment is to hide the deficiencies and weakness of whatever is driving their flipper system. By keeping the stroke short, the biggest difference - the mushiness on wide shots - is effectively hidden/eliminated. The shots all WANT to go wide with this alignment, and orbit shots and ramp shots are "easier" and snappier, even if the middle shots more difficult and now only a cinch from a trap. When the stroke distance is corrected to accurately ape that of the original 1995 build, this sleight of hand is uncovered.
These are my conclusions and opinions. I'm wondering if anybody else has tried to correct the flipper stroke on these remakes, or has any other nuanced, educated opinions on this. I understand that people may get defensive or agitated, but that's not the intention. I would have been extremely interested in reading about this from someone else, as I've always wondered why these games ship with such a strange, non original spec flipper stroke. Now I think I know.
In the end, my decision was made very quickly. As much as I loved owning a "brand new," mint-condition, sparkling clean and smooth example of my favorite game, with a fancy screen and richer sound, it was simply no contest. I listed and sold the remake in 2 days (during Pinside's blackout) and kept my "beater," but original, and original playing, AFM. And I'll probably have it for life.

My “life stroke” is only 60-70% of what it was in the 90’s.

I don’t care that my brand new, gorgeous perfect playing game isn’t exactly the same as the originals.

Stick a wad of gum under the cabinet and be done with it.

#153 3 years ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

I can't believe that people can not feel the difference between the remakes and the originals. It isn't even close. The remakes have that spongy, late-flipping feel like Spooky and JJP machines. No comparison to the Bally/Williams feel. Originals all the way for me. Others are either in denial or haven't played enough games on the 90s machines.

Or most people don’t care?

-4
#154 3 years ago
Quoted from Onwallst:

The truth is if you have never had a solid low play original next to a remake you won’t understand the difference. I have had friends that were on this board defending the remakes as they owned all three. They have sold all their remakes after learning and witnessing the difference. They have replaced with the originals. If you never compare the remake to the original like the one poster said you will never know the difference. The remakes look nice etc but not the same playing game. Changing flipper strength really doesn’t help as it causes other issues. Also WPC-95 parts are easy to get. The remake parts are hard to get currently which I don’t understand. I wonder 10 years from now if they will be available at all with only three remakes ever made.

#155 3 years ago
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:

most people don’t care?

Then move on... usually when I don’t care about a topic and I don’t have anything to ad to the discussion I don’t post... hmmm what a concept...

#156 3 years ago
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:

Or most people don’t care?

Yeah three straight dumb posts is a sure way to show us how you don’t care about something!

Like how you told me 7 years ago you were ok with an old piece of gum under a gorgeous game I sold that you still have yet are still whining endlessly about over half a decade later.

SEVEN YEARS.

Whined endlessly until I gave him some free plastics and a cupholder and still, SEVEN FUCKING YEARS later this clown is still whining about it. After we shook hands, had a beer, and declared that everybody was happy with the deal.

Don’t sell family arcade a game, or he’ll latch on to anything like a pit Bull and will NEVER FUCKING DROP IT even if you give him some Free shit to shut the fuck up about it.

You’ve been warned people. A deal is never done when it’s Family Arcade. Not as long as he has a case of beer around.

#157 3 years ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

You’ve been warned people. A deal is never done when it’s Family Arcade. Not as long as he has a case of beer around.

Now we know the rest of the story...

#158 3 years ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Then move on... usually when I don’t care about a topic and I don’t have anything to ad to the discussion I don’t post... hmmm what a concept...

Lol dude. This topic has been discussed and nauseum since the first MMr hit the streets. I will never not roll my eyes at the purists who have to insist every chance they get that the originals are better than the remakes. That’s what Pinside is for!

BEAT originals were going for $10k plus before the remarks hit. It is what it is.

Levi is right, the flipper stroke ships different on the remakes. It’s adjustable. So now we get to debate originals versus remakes again? Yay!

Slow morning on Pinside!

-4
#159 3 years ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

When the flipper power is adjusted in the CGC menu, what is actually being changed to produce a stronger/weaker flipper?
Are they dynamically changing the voltage to the coil? Changing the signal timing somehow?
I would have thought that a flipper's power would be determined by the coil being used and would then not be variable.

Now you are just causing trouble. Put a good volt meter on it yourself and it will tell you. Everyone of us knows that answer.

#160 3 years ago
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:

Lol dude. This topic has been discussed and nauseum since the first MMr hit the streets. I will never not roll my eyes at the purists who have to insist every chance they get that the originals are better than the remakes. That’s what Pinside is for!
BEAT originals were going for $10k plus before the remarks hit. It is what it is.
Levi is right, the flipper stroke ships different on the remakes. It’s adjustable. So now we get to debate originals versus remakes again? Yay!
Slow morning on Pinside!

The flipper stroke is not fully adjustable did you read anything in this post! This is no debate it is a fact. Go chew your gum!

#161 3 years ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Any thoughts on the "throw" of the flippers? The AFMr near me certainly doesn't get as high at the end of stroke as other games.

This is interesting, if the AFMr is actually drooping the flippers intentionally (to make it the way it is "supposed to be"), this would account for people saying that the throw is too short and "it's too hard to catch the ball on AFMr and you can't backhand anything".

I bet that most original AFM owners (or operators) don't set the flippers that far down. I know that I probably wouldn't have.

I hadn't thought much about it, but the last AFMr that I played on location had the flippers drooping so much that it was hard to even hit the center saucer. I just assumed that somebody had screwed up - but maybe it wasn't as far off as I had thought.

#162 3 years ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

This is interesting, if the AFMr is actually drooping the flippers intentionally (to make it the way it is "supposed to be"), this would account for people saying that the throw is too short and "it's too hard to catch the ball on AFMr and you can't backhand anything".
I bet that most original AFM owners (or operators) don't set the flippers that far down. I know that I probably wouldn't have.
I hadn't thought much about it, but the last AFMr that I played on location had the flippers drooping so much that it was hard to even hit the center saucer. I just assumed that somebody had screwed up - but maybe it wasn't as far off as I had thought.

Here’s a still from the original 1995 AFM promo video.

Not the best angle but I think we can agree the remakes have a much shallower stroke.

Don’t fall for the smoke and mirrors!! They are trying to baffle you with bullshit!
1928DBE4-FBDB-4693-A989-75B0A393C011 (resized).jpeg1928DBE4-FBDB-4693-A989-75B0A393C011 (resized).jpeg

-1
#163 3 years ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

Yeah three straight dumb posts is a sure way to show us how you don’t care about something!
Like how you told me 7 years ago you were ok with an old piece of gum under a gorgeous game I sold that you still have yet are still whining endlessly about over half a decade later.
SEVEN YEARS.
Whined endlessly until I gave him some free plastics and a cupholder and still, SEVEN FUCKING YEARS later this clown is still whining about it. After we shook hands, had a beer, and declared that everybody was happy with the deal.
Don’t sell family arcade a game, or he’ll latch on to anything like a pit Bull and will NEVER FUCKING DROP IT even if you give him some Free shit to shit the fuck up about it.
You’ve been warned people. A deal is never done when it’s Family Arcade. Not as long as he has a case of beer around.

Joking with you by referencing a pierce of gum? Boy, you’ve gone soft Levi.

Only deal I’ve ever regretted, only deal where the seller failed to disclose dramatic flaws. It amuses me to reference the gum under the cabinet. That will always be funny to me. I told Levi that he’s lucky I don’t riff on the other stuff. Like:

The borked backbox- upper right corner damage. Wood separation. A mess.
The large chip in the front of the cabinet
The broken sling plastics held together with scotch tape.
The missing plastic - the largest in the game (that you replaced after I complained)
The broken coin door plastics.

Mind you, Levi posted PICTURES and a description of the game on a Pinside when selling. Revealing none of these things. His price was full market for a nice players game, and upon arrival to pick it up I express disappointment he says “well, it is what it is and I can sell this game as is for this price so I won’t lower the price”...and that will never not be uncool.

I bought the game because my time is valuable and I spent it driving into NYC to get a game I really wanted. And yes, the playfield was pretty good and it played well. There was a pin gulp attached to the game when I showed up. When Levi cavalierly insisted I buy the game “as is or walk”, I claimed the Pingulp. He’s never gotten over it!

Here’s the real message people: if you typically buy nice HUO games by private sellers and that’s your standard, don’t buy from Levi. He runs a pinball flea market. I learned my lesson.

And lighten up. Play your original AFM.

#164 3 years ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

the last AFMr that I played on location had the flippers drooping so much that it was hard to even hit the center saucer. I just assumed that somebody had screwed up - but maybe it wasn't as far off as I had thought.

The flippers ship in many occasion way too drooped (not sure why). I played an AFMr like this on location, and it was no fun at all - virtually unplayable. Very frustrating, but the pin tech wasn't in, so I couldn't get them to change it.

#165 3 years ago
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:

Joking with you by referencing a pierce of gum? Boy, you’ve gone soft Levi.
Only deal I’ve ever regretted, only deal where the seller failed to disclose dramatic flaws. It amuses me to reference the gum under the cabinet. That will always be funny to me. I told Levi that he’s lucky I don’t riff on the other stuff. Like:
The borked backbox- upper right corner damage. Wood separation. A mess.
The large chip in the front of the cabinet
The broken sling plastics held together with scotch tape.
The missing plastic - the largest in the game (that you replaced after I complained)
The broken coin door plastics.
Mind you, Levi posted PICTURES and a description of the game on a Pinside when selling. Revealing none of these things. His price was full market for a nice players game, and upon arrival to pick it up and express disappointment he says “well, it is what it is and I can sell this game as is for this price so I won’t lower the price”...and that will never not be uncool.
I bought the game because my time is valuable and I spent it driving into NYC to get a game I really wanted. And yes, the playfield was pretty good and it played well. There was a pin gulp attached to the game when I showed up. When Levi cavalierly insisted I buy the game “as is or walk”, I claimed the Pingulp. He’s never gotten over it!
Here’s the real message people: if you typically buy nice HUO games by private sellers and that’s your standard, don’t buy from Levi. He runs a pinball flea market. I learned my lesson.
And lighten up. Play your original AFM.

Wow is that all confusing!

#166 3 years ago
Quoted from Onwallst:

Now you are just causing trouble. Put a good volt meter on it yourself and it will tell you. Everyone of us knows that answer.

Wow...least helpful post ever. I was simply asking a question. And since according to you "everyone knows the answer", why didn't you just provide the answer?

Instead, you want me to pull the machine out and open it up, then go through various settings in the menu and compare the voltages for each setting, then set up an oscilloscope and compare the signal timings for each setting. All this to find out the answer to a question that "everyone knows", but you are unwilling to answer.

Thanks for all the help.

#167 3 years ago
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:

Joking with you by referencing a pierce of gum? Boy, you’ve gone soft Levi.
Only deal I’ve ever regretted, only deal where the seller failed to disclose dramatic flaws. It amuses me to reference the gum under the cabinet. That will always be funny to me. I told Levi that he’s lucky I don’t riff on the other stuff. Like:
The borked backbox- upper right corner damage. Wood separation. A mess.
The large chip in the front of the cabinet
The broken sling plastics held together with scotch tape.
The missing plastic - the largest in the game (that you replaced after I complained)
The broken coin door plastics.
Mind you, Levi posted PICTURES and a description of the game on a Pinside when selling. Revealing none of these things. His price was full market for a nice players game, and upon arrival to pick it up I express disappointment he says “well, it is what it is and I can sell this game as is for this price so I won’t lower the price”...and that will never not be uncool.
I bought the game because my time is valuable and I spent it driving into NYC to get a game I really wanted. And yes, the playfield was pretty good and it played well. There was a pin gulp attached to the game when I showed up. When Levi cavalierly insisted I buy the game “as is or walk”, I claimed the Pingulp. He’s never gotten over it!
Here’s the real message people: if you typically buy nice HUO games by private sellers and that’s your standard, don’t buy from Levi. He runs a pinball flea market. I learned my lesson.
And lighten up. Play your original AFM.

Yeah and looks like you have bought a lot of home use only games over the years. Levi is a stand up guy. At least we have a AFM or AFMr to play and debate about. Why are you even on this thread if you don’t have one? Just to troll Levi.

#168 3 years ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

Wow...least helpful post ever. I was simply asking a question. And since according to you "everyone knows the answer", why didn't you just provide the answer?
Instead, you want me to pull the machine out and open it up, then go through various settings in the menu and compare the voltages for each setting, then set up an oscilloscope and compare the signal timings for each setting. All this to find out the answer to a question that "everyone knows", but you are unwilling to answer.
Thanks for all the help.

It is a change in voltage. Less overall voltage.

#169 3 years ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Now we know the rest of the story...

No. NOW you do. Judge as you will.

#170 3 years ago
Quoted from Onwallst:

Yeah and looks like you have bought a lot of home use only games over the years. Levi is a stand up guy. At least we have a AFM or AFMr to play and debate about. Why are you even on this thread if you don’t have one?

I have an MMr. And have you bought a game from Levi? What does “stand up guy” mean to you? I LIKE Levi. I enjoy his posts. But I’ll never buy a game from him again. And as long as I live, I’ll needle him about the gum under the cabinet of that WCS.

#171 3 years ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

Here’s a still from the original 1995 AFM promo video.
Not the best angle but I think we can agree the remakes have a much shallower stroke.
Don’t fall for the smoke and mirrors!! They are trying to baffle you with bullshit!
[quoted image]

That picture doesn't really help at all. Not only is it a bad angle, but since the flipper resting position is not shown, there is no way to measure the stroke length.

So, No, we cannot "agree that the remakes have a much shallower stroke" based on this picture.

Doing some photoshop analysis on the MBr pictures I posted last night, I measured that my flippers at the rest position sit 27 degrees "below the horizontal" and when extended go to 20 degrees "above the horizontal". This makes for 47 degrees of full travel.

If someone could post a pair of similar pictures for an original MB (especially one that has NOT had the flipper base bent back), then we could get a direct comparison.

#172 3 years ago
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:

Joking with you by referencing a pierce of gum? Boy, you’ve gone soft Levi.
Only deal I’ve ever regretted, only deal where the seller failed to disclose dramatic flaws. It amuses me to reference the gum under the cabinet. That will always be funny to me. I told Levi that he’s lucky I don’t riff on the other stuff. Like:
The borked backbox- upper right corner damage. Wood separation. A mess.
The large chip in the front of the cabinet
The broken sling plastics held together with scotch tape.
The missing plastic - the largest in the game (that you replaced after I complained)
The broken coin door plastics.
Mind you, Levi posted PICTURES and a description of the game on a Pinside when selling. Revealing none of these things. His price was full market for a nice players game, and upon arrival to pick it up I express disappointment he says “well, it is what it is and I can sell this game as is for this price so I won’t lower the price”...and that will never not be uncool.
I bought the game because my time is valuable and I spent it driving into NYC to get a game I really wanted. And yes, the playfield was pretty good and it played well. There was a pin gulp attached to the game when I showed up. When Levi cavalierly insisted I buy the game “as is or walk”, I claimed the Pingulp. He’s never gotten over it!
Here’s the real message people: if you typically buy nice HUO games by private sellers and that’s your standard, don’t buy from Levi. He runs a pinball flea market. I learned my lesson.
And lighten up. Play your original AFM.

If you knew all that and still made the deal then why complain about it? If condition and price were a problem then you should of walked.

#173 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

If you knew all that and still made the deal then why complain about it? If condition and price were a problem then you should of walked.

Exactly! Great post! He is just a gum chewing troll with a big gulp!

#174 3 years ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

When the flipper power is adjusted in the CGC menu, what is actually being changed to produce a stronger/weaker flipper?
Are they dynamically changing the voltage to the coil? Changing the signal timing somehow?
I would have thought that a flipper's power would be determined by the coil being used and would then not be variable.

The software changes the initial timing of the power stroke pulse. Fliptronics, and other modern flipper designs, use computer timing to change from power to hold coil (and the EOS is used to detect knockdowns to repulse the flipper back up). Stronger flipper setting = longer initial pulse

The type of coil also matters in power. The biggest change is Fliptronics was (I believe) hardware logic that isn’t adjustable, where as modern controllers can vary this timing for the user to make minor adjustments as needed.

Quoted from Onwallst:

It is a change in voltage.

This is laughably wrong.

-4
#175 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

If you knew all that and still made the deal then why complain about it? If condition and price were a problem then you should of walked.

Jesus H Christ I wasn’t complaining about it! Where was I complaining? Show me? Not until Levi’s character assassination.

I’m done here now. I guess I should have opened a “Woe is me, have I been taken?” thread on Pinside 7 years ago and watch it blow up. It probably would have cost Levi a little something back then. But I didn’t did I? I protected his rep because yeah, I took the game home. Undisclosed damage and all. My bad.

SMGDH.

#176 3 years ago
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:

Jesus H Christ I wasn’t complaining about it! Where was I complaining? Show me? Not until Levi’s character assassination.
I’m done here now. I guess I should have opened a “Woe is me, have I been taken?” thread on Pinside 7 years ago and watch it blow up. It probably would have cost Levi a little something back then. But I didn’t did I? I protected his rep because yeah, I took the game home. Undisclosed damage and all. My bad.
SMGDH.

Not complaining read your own post. You are complaining here again. Good bye!

#177 3 years ago
Quoted from TreyBo69:

The software changes the initial timing of the power stroke pulse. Fliptronics, and other modern flipper designs, use computer timing to change from power to hold coil (and the EOS is used to detect knockdowns to repulse the flipper back up). Stronger flipper setting = longer initial pulse

This is laughably wrong.

Yeah, I figured it had to be something more complex than that. Thanks.

#178 3 years ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

There is another (long) thread here that went into the specifics of the signals/delays/etc between the original and remakes. After a lot of back and forth (and testing and re-testing), including input from CGC, it was determined that there was no detectable difference in the signal timings.
I will try to find that thread and post a link here...
edit : thread is here - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/why-remakes-dont-play-like-originals

Yes, I started that thread and did the testing. The increased delay in the CGC games relative to the BW originals is easily detectable by an oscilloscope. I don't know if it is perceived by the player as no one has tested that at least as far as I know. I thought it would be interesting to try an experiment to determine how many milliseconds of delay could be perceived and how it is perceived but to my knowledge that has never been done. CGC came into the thread and mentioned they may include an option in future games to eliminate this delay. I'm not sure if this was done in MB (which was not out at that time, and I have never played their remake of that) and if this is why some people feel that game as a flipper feel that is more true to the original.

#179 3 years ago
Quoted from TreyBo69:

The software changes the initial timing of the power stroke pulse. Fliptronics, and other modern flipper designs, use computer timing to change from power to hold coil (and the EOS is used to detect knockdowns to repulse the flipper back up). Stronger flipper setting = longer initial pulse
The type of coil also matters in power. The biggest change is Fliptronics was (I believe) hardware logic that isn’t adjustable, where as modern controllers can vary this timing for the user to make minor adjustments as needed.

This is laughably wrong.

Put a high quality volt meter on it. It does effect the timing but also the average voltage as it lets you dial back.

#180 3 years ago
Quoted from Onwallst:

Put a high quality volt meter on it. It does effect the timing but also the voltage as it lets you dial back.

Why don’t you do this and post the results? You’re the one making the claim

Edit: if anything is changing it’s just the PWM and the timing from power to hold. Although I don’t think the use PWM on dual wound coils

#181 3 years ago
Quoted from TreyBo69:

Why don’t you do this and post the results? You’re the one making the claim

Fair request I will do it when I get home and also try to take a picture of a HUO original flipper placement.

#182 3 years ago
Quoted from TreyBo69:

The biggest change is Fliptronics was (I believe) hardware logic that isn’t adjustable, where as modern controllers can vary this timing for the user to make minor adjustments as needed.

The fliptronics board essentially just samples the flipper switch (like any other switch in the game) every few ms to see if it has been activated. That is why in the originals there is some slight delay and also variability because the switch might have been triggered at any point between when the reading when it was open and the one were it was closed. In the remakes this variability is also there but the delay is slightly longer (perhaps because some functions of the board are being emmulated in software, although I'm not sure how it works in the remakes).

Quoted from Onwallst:

Put a high quality volt meter on it. It does effect the timing but also the voltage as it lets you dial back.

You really need an oscilloscope for this and I have done it on several different types of games. I've never seen one that adjusts the voltage which is pretty much determined by the power supply, just the duration that the coil is energized. In modern games it seems to be controlled by rapidly turning the voltage on then off and adjust the duty cycle (or pulse width) that it is on. With something like a DC voltmeter that is essentially averaging the reading over a period of time it might appear to be a change in voltage but that is not what is happening.

#183 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

If you knew all that and still made the deal then why complain about it? If condition and price were a problem then you should of walked.

Because he's out of his mind?

This guy bought a game from me SEVEN YEARS AGO. He came, he looked at it, he paid me money, he took the game and drove away.

A couple days later I get a message whining about a piece of gum underneath the cabinet. A PIECE OF FUCKING GUM. Like dozens of games I've owned over 20 years. WHO GIVES A FUCKING SHIT? The game was NEVER advertised as "shopped," it was never advertised as mint, it was advertised as a nice, fully working WCS and that's exactly what it fucking was. What did this guy expect for $2500?! Even back then, that was a good price on a nice, fully working WCS that played great.

The game also had an off board battery and a couple of other upgrades I didn't bother mentioning. But he was focused on this piece of gum like Rain Man. Oh and there were a litany of other complaints about a 20-year old used game that was sold as-is and that he agreed to buy - happily - after inspecting it.

So I gave him some free plastics I had laying around, and a free cupholder, and he came over and picked them up, we had a beer, and we SHOOK HANDS ON THE DEAL. Again. Everything is cool right?

For the past seven years, he has continued to needle me publicly over this piece of fucking gum, going back on his word that the deal was complete and he was happy with it. A couple years ago - due to his incessant psychopathic ranting - I offered to buy back the game for what he paid for it. He declined. Because I had sold him a perfectly nice game that 5 years later was now worth well more than what he paid for it.

But to this day, he refuses to let it go. The way I see it, he at least owes me a fucking cupholder and a couple loose WCS plastics, as those were supposed to buy his satisfaction. Instead, he welched on the deal and now you all have to hear about it.

DO NOT SELL A GAME TO FAMILY ARCADE. YOU WILL REGRET IT!!!

#184 3 years ago
Quoted from twenty84:

The fliptronics board essentially just samples the flipper switch (like any other switch in the game) every few ms to see if it has been activated. That is why in the originals there is some slight delay and also variability because the switch might have been triggered at any point between when the reading when it was open and the one were it was closed. In the remakes this variability is also there but the delay is slightly longer (perhaps because some functions of the board are being emmulated in software, although I'm not sure how it works in the remakes).

You really need an oscilloscope for this and I have done it on several different types of games. I've never seen one that adjusts the voltage which is pretty much determined by the power supply, just the duration that the coil is energized. In modern games it seems to be controlled by rapidly turning the voltage on then off and adjust the duty cycle (or pulse width) that it is on. With something like a DC voltmeter that is essentially averaging the reading over a period of time it might appear to be a change in voltage but that is not what is happening.

Yes, I am no electrical expert, but simply increasing/decreasing the voltage didn't seem very reasonable to me - hence my asking the question. Thanks for the info.

#185 3 years ago
Quoted from twenty84:

In modern games it seems to be controlled by rapidly turning the voltage on then off and adjust the duty cycle (or pulse width) that it is on. With something like a DC voltmeter that is essentially averaging the reading over a period of time it might appear to be a change in voltage but that is not what is happening.

I believe this only applies to single wound coils, which is primarily Stern. Just about everyone else uses dual wound and are adjusting the timing in the settings, or for particular modes like on Oktoberfest.

Rick and Morty shipped with single wound and the people at Spooky have been working hard to get it to feel “right”. It’s really challenging to do single wound flippers controlled by PWM, and even some Stern games still struggle with heat issues after long playing sessions.

#186 3 years ago
Quoted from twenty84:

...You really need an oscilloscope for this and I have done it on several different types of games. I've never seen one that adjusts the voltage which is pretty much determined by the power supply, just the duration that the coil is energized. In modern games it seems to be controlled by rapidly turning the voltage on then off and adjust the duty cycle (or pulse width) that it is on. With something like a DC voltmeter that is essentially averaging the reading over a period of time it might appear to be a change in voltage but that is not what is happening.

Wouldn't hurt to use a clamp on current that plugs into the scope too. That way you can monitor both voltage and current in the time domain at the same time.

#187 3 years ago
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:

ut I’ll never buy a game from him again. And as long as I live, I’ll needle him about the gum under the cabinet of that WCS.

Wrong thread for this. Start your own since you have an ax to grind.

#188 3 years ago
Quoted from twenty84:

The fliptronics board essentially just samples the flipper switch (like any other switch in the game) every few ms to see if it has been activated. That is why in the originals there is some slight delay and also variability because the switch might have been triggered at any point between when the reading when it was open and the one were it was closed. In the remakes this variability is also there but the delay is slightly longer (perhaps because some functions of the board are being emmulated in software, although I'm not sure how it works in the remakes).

You really need an oscilloscope for this and I have done it on several different types of games. I've never seen one that adjusts the voltage which is pretty much determined by the power supply, just the duration that the coil is energized. In modern games it seems to be controlled by rapidly turning the voltage on then off and adjust the duty cycle (or pulse width) that it is on. With something like a DC voltmeter that is essentially averaging the reading over a period of time it might appear to be a change in voltage but that is not what is happening.

Yes it is only going to be the average reading in the period.

#189 3 years ago
Quoted from TreyBo69:

I believe this only applies to single wound coils, which is primarily Stern. Just about everyone else uses dual wound and are adjusting the timing in the settings, or for particular modes like on Oktoberfest.
Rick and Morty shipped with single wound and the people at Spooky have been working hard to get it to feel “right”. It’s really challenging to do single-wound flippers controlled by PWM, and even some Stern games still struggle with heat issues after long playing sessions.

Dual wound coils can use a smaller coil for holding the flipper up after the limit switch is activated. This is a separate issue from using PWM to change flipper power which is what is used in any modern game where flipper power is adjustable in software including JJP and Stern. I haven't had an AP game or Rick and Morty so I can't speak to those.

Any piece of metal you put current through will heat up, so that issue isn't limited to Stern, and is well documented for JJP flipper coils and others. It has become fashionable to monitor flipper coil temperature during games and document that the flippers do in fact get warmer. That said I feel the effect on game play caused by heating has been overstated recently. Looking at the timing until the limit switch was activated on Stern games I was not able to find any effect of heating at least to near 1 ms or less. I have yet to see anyone measure a decrease in coil power or change in timing with heating.

#190 3 years ago
Quoted from twenty84:

Dual wound coils can use a smaller coil for holding the flipper up after the limit switch is activated. This is a separate issue from using PWM to change flipper power which is what is used in any modern game where flipper power is adjustable in software including JJP and Stern. I haven't had an AP game or Rick and Morty so I can't speak to those.
Any piece of metal you put current through will heat up, so that issue isn't limited to Stern, and is well documented for JJP flipper coils and others. It has become fashionable to monitor flipper coil temperature during games and document that the flippers do in fact get warmer. That said I feel the effect on game play caused by heating has been overstated recently. Looking at the timing until the limit switch was activated on Stern games I was not able to find any effect of heating at least to near 1 ms or less. I have yet to see anyone measure a decrease in coil power or change in timing with heating.

PWM is mostly used on single wound flipper coils to my knowledge. On the dual wound flipper coils they don't need to PWM because they have two driving transistors, one for hold and one for power. On these, the time in MS from changing from power to hold is what is being modified. For example, trigger power coil for 35ms then simultaneously switch off and turn on hold.

Single wound coils use a single transistor and PWM to do the power and the hold. I'm not exactly sure how Stern implements their PWM, but it's generally really good. It is something like 50% PWM for 30ms, then 15% PWM while flipper is held. (Just example numbers)

Yes coils get hot. It's not just a Stern issue. But single wound coils are more difficult to manage the heat profile and takes more fine tuning than a dual wound coil designed for this problem. If the hold PWM is too low, the flipper bat is easily knocked down and if it's too high then the coil quickly overheats

I'd love to know why JJP flippers are so different in execution than everyone else. They do heat up quickly and generally have a very unique feel to them.

Heat changes the resistance of the coil, which lowers the power of the electromagnet. I would also theorize the heat also likely causes the nylon sleeve to slightly expand in size which adds additional friction to the plunger, and makes the flipper feel weaker.

And this is all about flipper coils. Regular coils, like pops and slings, are modifying the timing pulse of the one coil fire to activate the device. This is not done through PWM

#191 3 years ago
Quoted from twenty84:

...I have yet to see anyone measure a decrease in coil power or change in timing with heating.

It would be interesting to actually put a force gauge (maybe that's the wrong device) on a flipper before and after a workout and see the change in strength.

Copper resistance does go up with temperature, which is why measuring just the voltage doesn't tell the entire story (unless the PS is drooping) and current should be measured at the same time. Measuring the coil temp is likely harder than it sounds since it's probably warmer on the internal windings where it can't dissipate the heat as much.

I have a clamp on current probe for a scope, I should play around with it...

Maybe something this for a mechanical measurement:

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#192 3 years ago

I don’t think the force of the flippers is the issue, I think people are arguing the throw of the flipper is different.

A protractor could measure this. It would also deal with the issue of some people aligning with the ball guides instead of the flipper alignment hole. Going off a picture in relation to the art is not scientific

#193 3 years ago
Quoted from TreyBo69:

I don’t think the force of the flippers is the issue, I think people are arguing the throw of the flipper is different.
A protractor could measure this. It would also deal with the issue of some people aligning with the ball guides instead of the flipper alignment hole. Going off a picture in relation to the art is not scientific

It looks like the topic switched over to flipper power at some point. Things tend to go off topic at times around here.

#194 3 years ago
Quoted from TreyBo69:

I don’t think the force of the flippers is the issue, I think people are arguing the throw of the flipper is different.
A protractor could measure this. It would also deal with the issue of some people aligning with the ball guides instead of the flipper alignment hole. Going off a picture in relation to the art is not scientific

I took the images I posted before and used a protractor image tool to measure the angles of the flippers at rest and at extension.

I found a travel of 47 degrees on my MBr, but I don't have good images of an original MB to compare it to. Hopefully an original MB owner can take some similar pictures to the one in this post : https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/it-s-time-to-talk-about-cgc-remake-flippers-/page/3#post-6229701

That should give us a decent comparison.

#195 3 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

It would be interesting to actually put a force gauge (maybe that's the wrong device) on a flipper before and after a workout and see the change in strength.
Copper resistance does go up with temperature, which is why measuring just the voltage doesn't tell the entire story (unless the PS is drooping) and current should be measured at the same time. Measuring the coil temp is likely harder than it sounds since it's probably warmer on the internal windings where it can't dissipate the heat as much.
I have a clamp on current probe for a scope, I should play around with it...
Maybe something this for a mechanical measurement: [quoted image]

The problem with the force gauge of that type is you will only be measuring the force at steady state. It is really the force in the first 40 ms or less of the coil being engaged that is of interest and many modern games won't keep the coil at full power much longer than that. During that time the inductive reactance is going to be a major source of resistance and the effect of temperature on that would be minimal. It could be measure with an accelerometer on the flippers. I looked at the time it took the EOS switch to be activated (which is under 40 ms on Sterns at least) but that might not tell the whole story.

Quoted from mbwalker:

It looks like the topic switched over to flipper power at some point. Things tend to go off topic at times around here.

The topic is CGC flippers and why they feel different. Timing could be an issue, and it is a little different but I'm not sure if that difference is perceptible. I feel like a discussion of flipper power, stroke length, etc is also on topic. That said once the conversation shifts to a piece of gum on the bottom of a WCS that was sold 7 years ago...

#196 3 years ago
Quoted from twenty84:

The problem with the force gauge of that type is ...

That was just the first thing I stumbled upon at Amazon, accelerometer makes sense (I'm a EE, not an ME, didn't know the correct instrument). Plus I would think the flipper would need a 'load' (i.e. the ball hitting it).

Measuring power might help indicate, but the power factor might play a role unless you are doing a before vs. after measurement since I don't think the inductance will change.

We're probably overthinking it...

#197 3 years ago

Let’s contact that super high speed camera guy and then we can get a great slow motion video

Only mild sarcasm

#198 3 years ago
Quoted from twenty84:

Yes, I started that thread and did the testing. The increased delay in the CGC games relative to the BW originals is easily detectable by an oscilloscope. I don't know if it is perceived by the player as no one has tested that at least as far as I know. I thought it would be interesting to try an experiment to determine how many milliseconds of delay could be perceived and how it is perceived but to my knowledge that has never been done. CGC came into the thread and mentioned they may include an option in future games to eliminate this delay. I'm not sure if this was done in MB (which was not out at that time, and I have never played their remake of that) and if this is why some people feel that game as a flipper feel that is more true to the original.

Did you notice any difference in the pulse width timing (power and hold) and amplitude between the originals and remakes? Also the shape of the pulses, ie. decay, overshoot, etc.?

#199 3 years ago
Quoted from TreyBo69:

I don’t think the force of the flippers is the issue, I think people are arguing the throw of the flipper is different.
A protractor could measure this. It would also deal with the issue of some people aligning with the ball guides instead of the flipper alignment hole. Going off a picture in relation to the art is not scientific

I think it’s both.

When I fixed the flipper throw, the wide shots became mushy. Doesn’t happen on an original.

The remake flippers remind me of spooky flippers.

15
#200 3 years ago

In an effort to bring some objectivity to the conversation, I took the time to print a protractor and measure the throw of the flippers on my AFMr LE. What I discovered is that the throw from rest to fully extended when pressing the flipper button is 50 degrees (both left and right) dead-on balls accurate (to quote Mona Lisa from My Cousin Vinny).

However, I couldn't stop there as my curiosity was getting the best of me. Expecting the throw to be wider, I then measured both flippers on my Getaway (1992 Williams) which have been completely rebuilt, but was at least 2-3 years ago. To my surprise, the throw was also 50 degrees dead-on balls accurate for both left and right flippers.

Knowing that my new Stern JP Prem had to be different (since the feel is so different), I decided to measure the throw of it's flippers. You know what? It too was 50 degrees of throw dead-on balls accurate for both flippers.

Now, the only thing left is for someone with an original AFM (ideally someone who has rebuilt flippers fairly recently and someone who has not done so in years, if ever) to see what throw angles they measure. My assumption is that the AFM original flippers when new and rebuilt will also have 50 degrees of throw. If so, this should at least take the degrees of flipper throw out of the conversation.

FYI, a quarter circle is cut out of the corner of the protractor at the intersection of 0 and 90 degrees which rests against the flipper's shaft when taking measurements.

Left flipper at rest
IMG_5806 (resized).JPGIMG_5806 (resized).JPG

Left flipper fully extended (flipper button pressed)
IMG_5807 (resized).JPGIMG_5807 (resized).JPG

Right flipper at rest
IMG_5804 (resized).JPGIMG_5804 (resized).JPG

Right flipper fully extended (flipper button pressed)
IMG_5805 (resized).JPGIMG_5805 (resized).JPG

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
11,500
Machine - For Sale
Santa Clara, CA
$ 27.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
 
$ 30.00
Playfield - Other
YouBentMyWookie
 
£ 55.00
Cabinet - Decals
Sillyoldelf Mods
 
$ 1,059.00
Pinball Machine
Mircoplayfields
 
$ 89.99
Lighting - Led
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 45.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
 
From: $ 33.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 69.99
Cabinet - Decals
Inscribed Solutions
 
$ 30.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
12,000
Machine - For Sale
San Diego, CA
$ 45.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 11.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
 
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 119.99
Cabinet - (Alt) Translites
FlyLand Designs
 
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
 
$ 39.50
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Pinball Haus
 
$ 37.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
 
$ 30.00
Playfield - Other
YouBentMyWookie
 
$ 44.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
PinBoss Mods
 
$ 89.99
Lighting - Led
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 12.95
9,500
Machine - For Sale
Bristow, VA
$ 5.00
Playfield - Decals
Pinball Fuzz
 
Trade
Machine - For Trade
Van Alstyne, TX
There are 429 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 9.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/it-s-time-to-talk-about-cgc-remake-flippers-/page/4 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.