(Topic ID: 259838)
Linked Games
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
Topic Gallery
Kennewick, WA
Why are you starting on top? Wouldn't it be easier to fix the underside first before setting up the topside?
Quoted from oradke:Why are you starting on top? Wouldn't it be easier to fix the underside first before setting up the topside?
Posts and rails go on first.
Last off, first on...
Leduc, AB
Quoted from pinballinreno:Posts and rails go on first.
Last off, first on...
Quoted from Stretch7:I always do my posts first along with through hole guides and rails. Basically anything that might harder to do top side before you do underside.
Agreed, I do what I call just the top layer first. As you can see in the pictures I don't own a rotisserie, have thought about buying one, but never pulled the trigger. I like working on a table with pads. Doing all parts (guides, rails, posts, pop bumpers, etc.) Gives the playfield about a 2" lift. I am able to then rotate the playfield over on the pads and start on the underside without really having to flip it much again. Also this enables me to install scoops, standup targets and most any through playfield switches due to the first layer being installed.
03/19/2020
Finished with most all top first layer. Going to install pop bumpers and wiring for their GI lighting and will be ready to start on the bottom side parts.
20200318_172558 (resized).jpg20200318_172553 (resized).jpgQuoted from Mikespinball:03/13/2020
Today I am using parchment paper to mark all mounting holes on the backside of the old playfield so I can transfer them to the new CPR one. I will be doing a left and right as the paper is not large enough to cover the playfield in one sheet.[quoted image]
Great idea with the parchment paper. cheap way of making sure where your holes will be. I will be using this on my alien poker project.
The paper idea works good for doing dimples. I have tracing paper wide enough to do whole playfield at once. I was missing some through holes as well but i used a old playfield to clamp over top to drill through as my guide.
IMG_5434 (resized).jpgIMG_5435 (resized).jpgIMG_5436 (resized).jpgIMG_5441 (resized).jpgQuoted from Mikespinball:03/19/2020
Finished with most all top first layer. Going to install pop bumpers and wiring for their GI lighting and will be ready to start on the bottom side parts.[quoted image][quoted image]
Am curious to know how the dimples and holes line up!
Quoted from Coyote:Am curious to know how the dimples and holes line up!
I only used the paper hole punch through I made if needed as most of the holes/dimples are present on the top and underside of the playfield. So very little and made small versions where needed.
Quoted from NPO:Marked as a favorite. Thank you for documenting all of this. I am considering doing TAF over this summer, and resources like this make doing a PF swap a lil' less formidable. I've done one or two, but TAF seems a bit more involved. We'll see soon...!
Thank you! All I would say is take lots of pictures during disassembly. I have a separate camera that I use just for documentation. I use it constantly as I am doing resembly to verify where parts go back together.
Good luck on your project and you can always get ahold of me if you have any questions.
Here is the finished results. It's a bit bright, I may make some changes to the lighting, but this will also help with the darkness in the back of the playfield anyhow. One picture with just the flash and the second one with the LED strip lighting on. This does look better in real life through.
20200321_150350 (resized).jpg20200321_150420 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Mikespinball:Here is the finished results. It's a bit bright, I may make some changes to the lighting, but this will also help with the darkness in the back of the playfield anyhow. One picture with just the flash and the second one with the LED strip lighting on.[quoted image][quoted image]
What would happen if you mount one strip at the bottom, aimed vertically?
Quoted from yellowghost:What would happen if you mount one strip at the bottom, aimed vertically?
Not sure about a vertical strip, could give it a try through. I have to remember that there will also be two wire looms that will be over the lights in the back once everything is installed, blocking some of the lighting. Just want to be happy with this before I complete the playfield due to that it is a challenge to work in the back where all this is located at. The challenge is TAF doesn't have the lift and latch system that the later games have.
You could put some scotch tape over the leds to diffuse the light. I’ve done that with good results.
Comet also makes some nice series potentiometers that can do dimming, you could make those accessible in the backbox or under the playfield.
Quoted from Bospins:You could put some scotch tape over the leds to diffuse the light. I’ve done that with good results.
Comet also makes some nice series potentiometers that can do dimming, you could make those accessible in the backbox or under the playfield.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Might need a diffuser of some sort like they did on the MMr leds.
Agreed I need a diffuser of some kind and/or style. I am still in contact with the printer that did these decals. He is sending me a second batch that maybe better and also going to make some decals on white see through that may diffuse the light better, so stay tuned as I am tabling this for now.
Did you make a recess for the thing box to open fully on your backboard? Can’t see it from the picture.
I really love the idea of having a transparent backboard!
I did not as the thickness of the 3/4 plexiglass was a bit smaller than the original wood. I did a fit check with it through and seems that I have enough room for it to open/close without any cut out. Won't officially know until I fire the game up, so I will keep my fingers crossed.
Quoted from Mikespinball:I did not as the thickness of the 3/4 plexiglass was a bit smaller than the original wood. I did a fit check with it through and seems that I have enough room for it to open/close without any cut out. Won't officially know until I fire the game up, so I will keep my fingers crossed.
I hope it works out!
The ball guide that runs around the back of the playfield screws into that board. You will want to find a way to secure the guide so the orbit flows well.
Quoted from Mikespinball:Just need to staple down and then the fun stuff begins, "the underside "![quoted image]
I really like the transluscent pop bumper bodies from Zitt and the 2 way led lighted discs.
I put them in my doctor who and they are fantastic.
Way better than I would have ever thought.
Now is the time to put them in, PITA later on...
Quoted from pinballinreno:I really like the transluscent pop bumper bodies from Zitt and the 2 way led lighted discs.
I put them in my doctor who and they are fantastic.
Way better than I would have ever thought.
Now is the time to put them in, PITA later on...
I used Zitt’s pop bodies on my TAF restore. I like the colors and the fact they are the correct height.
Quoted from metahugh:I hope it works out!
The ball guide that runs around the back of the playfield screws into that board. You will want to find a way to secure the guide so the orbit flows well.
[quoted image]
Yes I have marked and drilled the hole for the screw. I may use a spacer/washer as necessary to connect the two, but waiting on the decals revisions to come in and see if I want to change them out.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I really like the transluscent pop bumper bodies from Zitt and the 2 way led lighted discs.
I put them in my doctor who and they are fantastic.
Way better than I would have ever thought.
Now is the time to put them in, PITA later on...
Quoted from metahugh:I used Zitt’s pop bodies on my TAF restore. I like the colors and the fact they are the correct height.
Okay guys what is "Zitt's"? I looked their name up on the net and no company came up, so send me a link of where to look, thanks.
I use the BriteCaps EVO from Pinball Life for the lighting of the pop bumpers. Have used them in the past and really like their effects.
20200324_090333 (resized).jpgQuoted from Mikespinball:Okay guys what is "Zitt's"? I looked their name up on the net and no company came up, so send me a link of where to look, thanks.
I use the BriteCaps EVO from Pinball Life for the lighting of the pop bumpers. Have used them in the past and really like their effects.[quoted image]
Mike , could you tell me the dimensions of these?
Here is a link to the bumper-bodies at "Zitt's"
http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/game-specific-products-star-trek-the-next-generation-pop-bumper-body-p-42.html
Also, it looks like you are already on your way with the pop light sockets. But, I was going to suggest that if you wire them with a small molex connector, and you ever want to change them out, then all you need to do is remove the pins from the molex connector and you can pull out the socket without having to desolder or otherwise go through the hassle of those stapled down-type sockets. Going one step further, since you are using the evo pop lights, you can run the wires for those down through the pop body and avoid using a socket altogether (again using a molex connector). That way, if you do decide to go with a clear body, you won't see the socket. That's what I did on my Monopoly restore.
Looking good so far! Following along on the restoration ride!
Quoted from dc2010:Mike , could you tell me the dimensions of these?
The BriteCaps EVO instructions don't give me any dimensions other than they add about 5mm to the height to the pop bumper. They do say to see more at Britemods.com. They should have the information you are looking for there and/or out on Pinball Life.
Note: I do have them installed in the following machines: Medieval Madness, Creature from the Black Lagoon, Congo, Twilight Zone and will now in the Addams Family. Some more modifications I may have done to get them to fit, but it's possible in most cases.
Quoted from Lamprey:Here is a link to the bumper-bodies at "Zitt's"
http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/game-specific-products-star-trek-the-next-generation-pop-bumper-body-p-42.html
Also, it looks like you are already on your way with the pop light sockets. But, I was going to suggest that if you wire them with a small molex connector, and you ever want to change them out, then all you need to do is remove the pins from the molex connector and you can pull out the socket without having to desolder or otherwise go through the hassle of those stapled down-type sockets. Going one step further, since you are using the evo pop lights, you can run the wires for those down through the pop body and avoid using a socket altogether (again using a molex connector). That way, if you do decide to go with a clear body, you won't see the socket. That's what I did on my Monopoly restore.
Looking good so far! Following along on the restoration ride!
I did not know of this body style and colors were available, looks cool and may have to go that way on the next restoration. Thanks for the information! Also to use the molex connector is a good idea, but would think you would still have to attach the wires down some and/or away from the pop bumper movement. What you are saying is what I have seen some what on Data East machines.
Quoted from Mikespinball:The BriteCaps EVO instructions don't give me any dimensions other than they add about 5mm to the height to the pop bumper. They do say to see more at Britemods.com. They should have the information you are looking for there and/or out on Pinball Life.
Note: I do have them installed in the following machines: Medieval Madness, Creature from the Black Lagoon, Congo, Twilight Zone and will now in the Addams Family. Some more modifications I may have done to get them to fit, but it's possible in most cases.
Thanks, i ended up measuring across the bumper,
Designing my own , if my idea works it'll be one bright mutha
Going to start with the GI run first.
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