Surly it's 0.41 VAC. Either way, it's too high. If that filter cap is not smoothing the voltage properly, the MPU will not boot up.

Replace both that cap and the +5v voltage regulator.

Replacing those 2-pin +5v regulators is a little tricky the first time you ever do it. You need to make sure the pins do not touch the sides of the aluminum heat sink when you remount it or they will short to gnd. The body of the regulator IS the ground, so it makes it a lot easier to screw up as the entire heat sink also becomes a ground source.

What I do is line up the regulator with the holes through the PCB and just thumb tighten the nuts to the heat sink mounting screws. Then I gently wiggle it back and forth until I find the center where neither of the pins are touching. You'll know what I mean once you get there. Then I solder the regulator in place, then check one more time that the pins aren't touching and tighten the nuts. Also don't forget to reuse/replace the little insulator that goes between the regulator and the heat sink. And make sure you have the orientation correct as well for input & output.

I agree with defog. The cap and regulator needs replaced.

Snap caps will be fine, I mount them exactly like bally did and use wires.

Sounds like you may have accidentally turned that adjustable potentiometer. If I am not mistaken, it adjusts the high voltage to the displays. Either that, or you have too much voltage going to the displays for some reason.

Unplug the cable going to the displays, and test that 190V test point. It should read no higher than 190VDC. It can be adjusted to around 170VDC to extend the life of the displays.

Are the two issues related? I'm really not sure, but I wouldn't think so. I have never worked on this type of power board before. My previous experience is with the one that was before this.

Clay says the display voltage comes from the 170VAC input, the 5 volts comes from the 9.4VAC line.
http://www.beerorkid.com/pin/Bally%2085-89/Index/
---------------
Missing Voltages and Blown Fuses.
No +5 volts or +14 volts DC. Check fuse FU3 (upper left). If TP1 shows no 5 volts DC, check TP5 which is the 14 volts DC that is processed through the U1 LM323 and filter capacitor C1 11,000mfd. If there is no 14 volts DC at TP5, there won't be any 5 volts at TP1. If FU3 is blown, one of the rectifying diodes at D1-D4 (3A1 diodes) could be shorted. These are easily tested with a DMM set to diode function.

High Voltage for score displays. TP2 is higher than 190 volts DC (and can not be adjusted down using trim pot VR1). This means the high voltage section of the power supply is dead. This is very common and will require replacement of Q1 (2n3584), Q2 (2n3440), Q3 (2n3440 with heat sink). If FU2 is blown (high voltage in), suspect one of the 1n4004 diodes D5-D8 as bad. These can be tested easily with a DMM set to the diode function.
------------------

If you are going to order more parts, may as well grab a 160uf/250V capacitor since it is responsible for the high voltage, that goes to the displays.

More words of wisdom from Clay:

+5 Volts Problems and Fixes.
The first thing that should be replaced in the +5 volt section is the big capacitor C1 (11,000 mfd 20 volts). This is the main filter cap that smooths the input AC volts. This filter cap has an effective life span of about ten years. That means that *every* 6803 game should have this capacitor replaced! Symptoms of a bad +5 volt filter capacitor are random game resets and lock ups.

Cap C1 can also be tested with a DMM set to low AC volts. Put the leads of the DMM on each lug of cap C1 with the game powered on. After a moment, the meter reading should stablize and show no more than .25 volts AC. If there is any more than 1/4 volt AC, capacitor C1 is definately bad.

Other than the filter cap, diodes D1,D2,D3,D4 (MR751, 100 volt 6 amp) also handle the initial conversion from input AC volts to DC volts. Check diodes D1-D4 with a DMM set to the diode function (.4 to .6 volts in one direction, null reading in the other). If any of these four diodes goes open (null reading in both directions), the +5 volts won't work at all. If any of these four diodes shorts (less than .4 volts), this will blow fuse FU3 (6 amp slow-blow). Diodes D1-D4 can be replaced with any 6A1 style diodes.

If cap C1 and diodes D1-D4 are good, yet +5 volts is still bad, next part to check is the voltage regulator U1 (78H05C). This is the large metal transistor with the huge heat sink. Also check capacitors C4,C5 (.1 mfd 20 volts) and C3 (2 mfd 20 volts), as these small caps can go open. There are really no other parts in the +5 volt power section.

High Voltage 190 Volts Problems and Fixes.
The high voltage section, which supplies power to the score displays, can be problematic. Commonly failed are capacitors C6 and C7 (.01 mfd, 500 volts) on the power supply board. It is a good idea to replace these two caps, as their failure can burn transistors Q2 and Q3 (2N3440 or NTE396) in the high voltage section, which are much more expensive than the capacitors. If C6/C7 are failing, it only takes about a minute of power before Q2/Q3 will fail.

Also commonly failed high voltage power supply components are resistor R5 (22k ohms 1/2 watt), capacitor C2 (160 mfd 250 volts, but replace with the more common 220 mfd 250 volts), transistor Q1 (2N3584 or NTE384), and the high voltage adjustment pot VR1 (25k 1/4 watt). Also check diodes D5,D6,D7,D8 (1N4004) and D10 (1N5275A) with a DMM set to the diode function (.4 to .6 volts in one direction, null reading in the other).

If the entire high voltage section is suspect and needs to be rebuilt, replace all of these parts:

C6,C7 - .01 mfd 500 volts capacitor
C2 - 160 mfd 250 volts (or 220 mfd 250 volts) capacitors
R5 - 22k ohms 1/2 watt resistor
VR1 - 25k 1/4 watt small adjustment pot
Q1 - 2N3584 (NTE384) transistor
Q2,Q3 - 2N3440 (NTE396) transistor
D10 - 1N5275A diode
D5,D6,D7,D8 - 1N4004 diodes

Yes, but at the power supply they are separate circuits....a common link is where they get input AC from. The Transformer.

Actually, I would back up the truck....wayyyyy up. Start with checking your transformer is sending to the power module. Your readings are really goofy. Your supply board may be in trouble, but no use troubleshooting it until you are certain that the AC voltages going in are within reason.

Start by checking the following input AC voltages to the power module @J5:
J5 pins 4 to 7 = +170 to +185 VAC
J5 pins 3 to 6 = +9 to + 15 VAC
J5 pins 1 to 2 = +49 to +55 VAC
J5 pins 8 to 12 = +6.9 VAC
J5 pins 9 to 10 = +10 VAC
J5 pins 9 to 11 = +10 VAC

True, all power comes from the transformer. I was speaking about these two different lines on the board.

I sort of dismissed a transformer problem, due to the two separate lines involved. However, it is not impossible that the transformer is the cause of the problems. It's not a bad place to start if for no other reason, to eliminate one piece of the puzzle.

However, in the six early Bally pins (MPU-35) that I have owned, none of the power problems were transformer related.

It only takes a few seconds for each measurement. Then you know what you've got, proceed to check the bridges and see what DC conversion is doing. Even though I suggested the transformer as a common source, that doesn't mean that it can't be multiple problems. You've lost regulation of the display voltage for sure, since it won't adjust.

Clay Harrell is a pinball repair guru.
http://www.concentratemedia.com/features/pinballmuseumannarbor0263.aspx

Back in the early days, he was one of the first to help new collectors get their games working. His famous repair guides, which are no longer available on his site, have been a tremendous help to me and I'm sure, countless others.

He made a series of repair videos, where he played a character named Shaggy. They are equal part pinball repair gold, and crazy antics. They were produced to support the Pinball Hall of Fame.

As for the red capacitors, I haven't seen any like that before. This is not to say they won't work. Just be certain they are the correct part.

From what I see those measurements would be close enough.

What do you measure at TP5? (This is the input to the 5VDC regulator U1, should be your unregulated +14VDC)

sfps-210.jpg

I finally found an Internet reference to that capacitor. It appears to be a .1uf 63volt. It will work theoretically, but it's not a ceramic disc capacitor, like the original. It's a mylar capacitor, so I'm not totally sure if it makes a difference.

The word antique is a bit off, and is the only reference that you have made that is the least bit odd. Congratulations, your use of the English language is better than 75% of natural born Americans.

We use the word antique to describe things that are not only old, but usually collectable or have some monetary value. Items that are representative of a past era that are rare or in extremely good condition, for their age also called antique.

I suppose stories are technically things, as in nouns, but you wouldn't use the adjective antique to describe a story. The word old would be more common.

My reference to "the least bit odd" was to say that this is the first time you have made even the slightest a error in word choice. It was meant to complement your mastery of what would be for you, a foreign language.

Well, you did misspell a curse word, explicative, but I know many Americans that do it too. I'll let you slide, pass, on that one.

To start up, the MPU board needs three basic things; 5volts, 12 volts, and ground.

If you are still not seeing any signs of life on your MPU board, and you now have 5 volts going to it, I would make sure the board is properly grounded and check your 12 volts. If you have those three things, you should see at least a flicker, on the MPU board's LED.

I would check for the 5 volts on the MPU test point, to make sure the voltage is making it to the MPU board. Then check for 12 volts, and use your meter to check for continuity to the cabinet grounding strap.

However, you need to keep that cable disconnected from the displays until you solve that issue. Those displays are not inexpensive.

If you're talking about TP3 on the MPU board, it's correct. It's the unregulated 12 volts, which means it can vary. See below.
------------------

CPU Board Test Points.

After the fuses are checked, and the game is powered on for the first time, it's not a bad idea to check the CPU board's Test Points (TP) for proper voltage. Here are the test points for the CPU board.

TP1 = 5 volts DC (4.9 to 5.2 volts DC), J1 pins 10-12.
TP2 = Ground, J1 pins 7-9 and J4 pins 5-6.
TP3 = 12 volts DC (unregulated 12 to 18 volts DC), J1 pin 6.
TP4 = Battery voltage (3.5 to 4.5 volts DC) - Not needed to boot the game.

I would pull all the fuses, make sure they are the correct ones according to the manual, test them, and replace.

Next I would solve the display high voltage issue.

Read the site I sent you the link to. It takes you step by step, through troubleshooting the MPU board. I have never worked on that model MPU, and it is bound to be different, than I am used to.

Do you know for sure, that the CPU board you bought is fully functional?
What type and voltage of battery did you replace the CPU battery with?

More of Clay's wisdom.
---------------------------
2d. Before Turning the Game On: Dead CPU Batteries and Corrupt Memory (Game Boots But Won't Start!)

If the CPU battery goes dead on a 6803 game, this can cause some problems. Every time the game is turned on with a dead battery, the U4 CMOS memory is at risk of containing erroneous data, and the game may not start play, or even take credits. The problem can be seen by viewing the adjustments, and checking the value for the adjustment in question. Often seen is 9999999 for an adjustment that should have a value 0,1,2 or 3. This can confuse the game enough to not allow a game to start.

To fix this, obviously replace the battery. The original NiCad rechargable should be replaced with AA batteries, as shown in the Battery Replacement & Corrosion section of this document. Also make sure you have a manual for the game! Unfortunately, the adjustments are not obvious, and a manual is needed to figure out what adjustment is what, and what value it should be set to!

After the battery is replaced and the manual acquired, power the game on. The first thing to check is the number of credits per game in the adjustments. Press the small push button inside the coin door, next to the volume control. This should put the game into audits and adjustments. Using the manual and the 6803 keypad (Dungeons & Dragons and prior), find the credits-per-play adjustment, and make sure this adjustment is set to a valid number! If this is not done, the game will probably not accept credits, and won't start play! After the credits-per-play are entered, set all the other game adjustments as desired.

Note some games like Eight Ball Champ won't "talk" unless the adjustments are set correctly. For example, on Eight Ball Champ, adjustment 50 should be set to use the Squawk & Talk sound board (value=1), and sounds mode adjustment 27 set (value=3), otherwise the game will not talk. Also check the balls-per-game adjustment (EBC adjustment 23) is set to a valid number of balls (one to five). Match can be turned on and off (EBC adjustment 29 value=1) on these games, and the credit displayed on the game (EBC adjustment 30 value=1) can be turned on and off. All 6803 games also have a "free play" adjustment (EBC adjustment 42), and if this is set to value 65, the game will start without coins.

You seemed to have had multiple issues, from the very start.

If you now have proper 5 and 12 volts going to the MPU, I would start looking at the socketed chips as the cause. If this were a MPU 35, I would say check all the ROM chips.

Check out the various guides I have linked to. One of them is going to tell you what to check, if you don't get the initial flicker. If the MPU has new or different games ROMS, you may have to rejumper the board. That too is covered, on one of those sites I linked to.

Here's the flash break down for Special Forces.

Nine LED Power-on Flashes and (No Power-on Flashes) Decoded.
All other games use a nine LED flash code system, including the last four games that have no power-on flash system (unless a problem is encountered):

1st flash - CPU internal RAM test on U1 (6803).
2nd flash - U2 program ROM validated.
3rd flash - U3 program ROM validated.
4th flash - U4 (6116 CMOS) Static RAM test.
5th flash - U8 (6821) PIA-0 test.
6th flash - U7 (6821) PIA-1 test.
7th flash - Checks internal display interrupt generator U1 (6803).
8th flash - Checks U12 (4584), U8 (6821) for lamp phasing logic test 'B' phase of CPU controlled lamps. Fuse F5 on power supply provides the phase B signal to the CPU board for U12 (4584), U8 (6821).
9th flash - Checks U1 (6803), U11 (4011), U12 (4584) for lamp phasing logic test 'A' phase of CPU controlled lamps. Fuse F4 on power supply provides the phase A signal to the CPU board for U1 (6803), U11 (4011), U12 (4584).
--------------------------

So, if you KNOW that you have the proper voltages going to the MPU board, and it is properly jumpered for the game ROMS, I would replace the 6803 at U1, and go from there. If I had to order the 6803, personally I would go ahead and buy two 6821 PIA chips.