(Topic ID: 115161)

Issue With Loctite?

By CUJO

9 years ago


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  • 17 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by cal50
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Loctite.jpg

#1 9 years ago

Trying to replace a blue star post on the topside of my BOP.
Screw won't break free. I know that loctite needs to be heated up to break free but not sure if this has loctite in it. Can someone maybe tell me why this isn't breaking free when I turn the phillips head screw on the top (and I'm not a weakling)...Last time I tried this I broke a screw in half by forcing it, then learned about the use of Loctite..

This appears to be clear , no blue or red detected...
See Hi-Res Pic. Thanks!

Loctite.jpgLoctite.jpg
#2 9 years ago

Heat it up and see if it will come out.

Your machine may have had 10 owners over the years, so who knows what they might have used.

#3 9 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Heat it up and see if it will come out.
Your machine may have had 10 owners over the years, so who knows what they might have used.

Tried Soldering gun tip till I couldn't touch the topside screw head and still can't break it...
8-(

#4 9 years ago

Do you think an acetone solvent with a q-tip might do it?

#5 9 years ago

If it breaks you can just push it through from the top.

#6 9 years ago

It could be "super" glue, acetone will soften it if that's the case. Maybe put a drop or two in the threads and see.

#7 9 years ago

Methylene Chloride seems to melt just about any Loctite bond.

Don't get it on anything with a nice finish.

#8 9 years ago

I've had good luck using my weller soldering GUN, iron didn't get hot enough.

#9 9 years ago

Got it with some nail polish removal w/ acetone, +5 min. of heat from my 40W soldering gun. Threads were very white where the loctite or glue was. Mission accomplished! Thanks!

#10 9 years ago

I have seen slight corrosion lock the screw into the t-nut and make it hard to remove without breaking.
Or it could be Loctite.

What "johninc" said, if it breaks,no worries.

Just replace the screw and the t-nut with new ones and problem solved.

#11 9 years ago

Wow, didn't know loctite was that effective.

#12 9 years ago
Quoted from RyanStl:

Wow, didn't know loctite was that effective.

Yep, it can cause screw heads to shatter off quite often if you don't heat it. I usually just hold the soldering iron on the bottom of the screw for a solid 2 minutes before attempting to unscrew it (and I unscrew it very slowly to start with to break up the loctite safely). Can be a bit of a pain in the ass, but luckily t-nuts are easy to replace if a broken screw gets lodged in there and needs to be tapped out...

#13 9 years ago

This is good to know because I used some on my flipper coil base without a nut on the back. I didn't think it would hold, but I have had no problems. Not to mention it sprayed out like crazy. I'll be way more careful with the stuff. The effectiveness explains the high cost per ounce.

#14 9 years ago

Just make sure to keep Loctite away from plastic. It does really bad things to plastic - especially ABS. It does not happen instantly, but plastic exposed to Loctite (even fumes from Loctite) becomes crumbly and brittle and soon falls apart.

#15 9 years ago

Loctite comes in various grades and bond strengths.

Blue colored is "serviceable" and the bond broken using hand tools.
Red is locking grade and intended for a permanent bond.
Green is a wicking grade , similar to blue in bond strength but flows around already assembled parts.

Once dried its sometimes hard to determine the grade used but adequate heat ( 500 degrees F ) will break the bond between parts. If someone flooded the threaded part with red or locking grade its sometimes easier to just snap the threads off and install new posts.

System 11's are sometimes notorious for posts that usually break off when trying to remove them.
I also had flipper bushings glued in place that the three bushing screws had to be drilled out on my Whirlwind & High Speed.

#16 9 years ago
Quoted from cal50:

Loctite comes in various grades and bond strengths.
Blue colored is "serviceable" and the bond broken using hand tools.
Red is locking grade and intended for a permanent bond.
Green is a wicking grade , similar to blue in bond strength but flows around already assembled parts.
Once dried its sometimes hard to determine the grade used but adequate heat ( 500 degrees F ) will break the bond between parts. If someone flooded the threaded part with red or locking grade its sometimes easier to just snap the threads off and install new posts.
System 11's are sometimes notorious for posts that usually break off when trying to remove them.
I also had flipper bushings glued in place that the three bushing screws had to be drilled out on my Whirlwind & High Speed.

Agreed about sys 11 for the most part. My hs had none, but my es and ww were coated with it. Found it easier to Dremel off the top of the bolt than try to heat the #%£ t nuts.

#17 9 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Agreed about sys 11 for the most part. My hs had none, but my es and ww were coated with it. Found it easier to Dremel off the top of the bolt than try to heat the #%£ t nuts.

Yep.

I orders a bunch of replacement posts from Pinball Resource ( Steve Young ) and simply twisted all of mine off and pitched them. The flipper bushing screws glued in place was a bigger PITA.

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