(Topic ID: 213438)

Issue With Evel Knievel (EK) SS Not Booting Up


By surfnrg

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 months ago by Mombo-number-5
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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#1 1 year ago

Purchased this game last night from a seller here on pinside. The game played well for a few games, but later on there was some oddness in the displays. The far left digit was flickering. Later on it wouldnt boot up at all, but all the GI's were on. I looked at the MPU during bootup and the LED flashed only 4 times after the flicker and pause. I believe it should be 7x. After examining the MPU board it looked a little rough imo (photos attached).

1. It it worth fixing up the existing board, or should it be replaced? I want this game to be somewhat reliable.
2. The game was sold to me by someone local as a reliable functioning game, not a "project". Who should be expected to repair in these situations?
3. Anything you can think of so I can get this game going in the short term?
4. Seller claims it was working perfectly before shipping, is that surprising?

mpu2 (resized).jpg

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#2 1 year ago

Very possible game was working. Battery corrosion re-reared it's ugly head. Sorry board repair guys, but I replace with new if you want long term reliability....

#3 1 year ago

Replace with Alltek boards.that is what I put in my EK

#4 1 year ago

Looks like some battery corrosion was badly repaired. At least they put a new battery on.

No 5th flash means one of the PIAs is having a problem (http://www.oocities.org/timessquare/arcade/7800/flash.html), which usually isn't related to the corrosion though. Try swapping U10 and U11 and see if anything changes. Even badly corroded boards can sometimes be quite reliable, though it's better to clean it up or replace in the long run. If it was sold as fully working, and no mention of the corrosion was made, I'd probably complain.

Allteks or https://nvram.weebly.com are a good replacement. Most board repair people won't touch corroded boards.

#5 1 year ago

Thanks Zac. I am fairly sure it's corrosion related as I wiggled around all the components in the affected area and it booted for a few minutes. I paid full fair price (2500) for a super clean inside and out game with the exception of the corrosion. Possible huo even.. Some pf wear but very minimal. Clean cabinet and coin door. Owner probably left batteries for years causing the game to not function. Guessing the guy I bought it from got it on the cheap and hacked the board to make it go on for a bit. I brought up the issue and he got real defensive. I already got the altek ordered. Definitely not the way I do business.. I disclose the known issues and take responsibility for missed issues. Seemed kinda used car salesman like. He has a big presence on here... I guess I'm a little surprised. Paid more for the convenience I thought I was getting.

#6 1 year ago

You’ll likely have to replace the connectors on the J4 plug before plugging in that new Altek. The corrosion easily climbs up the header pins and on to the crimped on connectors, causing all sorts of reliability issues.

#7 1 year ago

Was the game sold "As Is"?

#8 1 year ago

Sold as working and clean. It's not a big deal.. $200 for a board. I traded him for an equally clean black hole with new boards compete with originals that were in better shape. It did need repinning which I disclosed. I get that things need adjusting and fixing up on a 40 yo pinball. I just dont see how anyone can claim that mpu board would be part of a working game. I was more shocked at his response.

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from MrArt2u:

You’ll likely have to replace the connectors on the J4 plug before plugging in that new Altek. The corrosion easily climbs up the header pins and on to the crimped on connectors, causing all sorts of reliability issues.

I would suggest repinning all the connectors on the MPU, SBD, and rectifier board. It is inexpensive and eliminates a common failure point on these older Bally games. If you want to repin the lamp board and displays, go right ahead. They don't seem to need replacement nearly as often as the MPU, SDB and rectifier board connectors. Don't forget to address the header pins, too.

#10 1 year ago

If you're getting a new MPU to use in one specific game, I recommend getting this: https://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html
It saves a bit of money over the Alltek.

I keep an Alltek mpu around for troubleshooting the original MPU. If that's a lost cause due to corrosion, I buy from weebly.

#11 1 year ago

Ah man... Too late for me. Thanks for the info... I just bookmarked for next time. I have lots of old bally games so next board I need I'll do what you suggested. Cheers.

6 months later
#12 8 months ago

I picked up an EK and the GI worked, but the MPU did not boot past 4 flashes and the displays stay dark.
Checked all of the voltages, clipped some of the obvious shorted solenoids like the Knocker.
Finally read that four flashes means U11 isn't booting. Pulled the U11, held it up to the pinball gods, plugged it back in and the MPU Booted!
Displays all work.
Sometimes it's just that simple.

Now to address the other issues.
1. Feature Lights on pf do not come on, checked the T1 test on the solenoid board and 5V+- is good
2. Changed one of the feature light bulbs to see if they might have all blown out, nope, still nothing
3. Solenoids not firing except for chimes. Pressing the flipper button, the flipper makes a noise, but no flip (low power or just shorted?)
4. I need to go through all of the solenoid diodes to see if they are shorted first
5. I'm almost out of tequila

Figured it out:
1. Feature Light were all blown because the connector at J1 on the power supply wasn't on correctly and 43V blew them all
2. #1 fixed the solenoids too (duh!)
3. Changed the BR1 on the power supply and the feature lights are amazing
4. Tequila has been replenished

#13 8 months ago

Take a good look at the SDB and J4 on the MPU.

Check local ads for Tequila on sale, see if Uber eats will deliver for you

#14 8 months ago

That MPU clearly has seen better days. Unless you like posting for help every once and a while I would replace the MPU with either a Alltek or another new style MPU.

#15 8 months ago

I believe the best way to go is to replace it, it's just to nasty. You will need to inspect the connectors for corrosion and repair those too. I like Allteks, but NVRAM are good, I like all that guys stuff. The nice thing about Allteks is you can check out other games right away when you get them. In the mean time you can look for a bargain -17 on eBay. I have a working one that has corrosion but not nearly as bad as the one pictured here. I'd sell it to ya' for $65 + actual shipping, that would save you a few bucks but there is a lot of value in having an Alltek around.

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