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(Topic ID: 210536)

Issue with both saucers on Bally Mr Mrs Pac-man

By Steve-in-CT

6 years ago


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  • 11 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by maestro
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Mr_&_Ms_PacMan_SwitchMatrix.jpg
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#1 6 years ago
OP
 
CHA

Steve-in-CT

Pinside member

US Killingly, CT

12y 43,650 283 10

I picked up a MM Pac-man that was partially working. It has an Alltek MPU and the others look original. I replaced one molex connector on the MPU which got the game up and running except for the 2 saucers. Both work in test, but not during a game. Contacts are clean and adjusted correctly. I researched and found the suggested ground modification for the solenoid board. I instead decided to install a new rottendog replacement board. Still no luck getting them to work. All wires are connected at the coils and the diodes are also in place. Where do I go from here?

Thanks,
Steve

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#2 6 years ago
 
COX

maestro

Pinside+ Frequent

US Fincastle, VA

9y 51,100 447 21

Check the ceramic capacitors at the switches under the playfield. Probably shorted. If so they can cause all kinds of havoc including not registering switches in gameplay but work in test mode. Remove them and see if the saucers wok in gameplay. Replace though, don't leave them out, because the system needs them to work properly. Its a 0.047 uf ceramic disk capacitor.

Check this out:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacement-switch-capacitorolder-bally-pins

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#3 6 years ago
 
BIL

dothedoo

Pinside member

12y 106K 7,265

Put it in switch test and see if the saucers register when you drop the ball in. The switches may be heavily oxidized and need cleaning.

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#4 6 years ago
OP
 
CHA

Steve-in-CT

Pinside member

US Killingly, CT

12y 43,650 283 10

Quoted from maestro:

Check the ceramic capacitors at the switches under the playfield.

Should both of them have capacitors? Only the left, 2 way (2 coil) saucer has one as well as a diode. The right single coil saucer only has a diode.

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#5 6 years ago
OP
 
CHA

Steve-in-CT

Pinside member

US Killingly, CT

12y 43,650 283 10

Quoted from dothedoo:

Put it in switch test and see if the saucers register when you drop the ball in. The switches may be heavily oxidized and need cleaning.

Neither registers in switch test.

I previously cleaned them and tested with my meter for continuity. Both worked fine.

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#6 6 years ago
 
PIP

Quench

Pinside member

8y 114K 8,036

Both the saucer switches sit on the same column in the switch matrix (common wire between the two is the white-red wire).
Are the other five switches on that column (circled in blue below) registering in switch test mode? From top they are switch numbers 1 to 5 respectively.
If they're not registering, it might just be a connector issue with that white-red wire at J2 pin 1 at the MPU board.

Mr_&_Ms_PacMan_SwitchMatrix.jpgMr_&_Ms_PacMan_SwitchMatrix.jpg

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#7 6 years ago
OP
 
CHA

Steve-in-CT

Pinside member

US Killingly, CT

12y 43,650 283 10

Nothing like finding out your own stupidity led to your problem. My issue was a piss poor crimping job on 2 wires on the J2 MPU plug I originally replaced. Yup, the 2 saucer wires. Once fixed, they both work. All that's left is to resolder the capacitor back on the left saucer switch. Thanks for all the help. I'm going to reflect on my mistake in a large vodka cocktail.

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#8 6 years ago
 
COX

maestro

Pinside+ Frequent

US Fincastle, VA

9y 51,100 447 21

OP
Quoted from Steve-in-CT:

Neither registers in switch test.

I misunderstood the original post and thought you meant they registered in test. It appears you meant the coils work in test though not the switches. My miss.

However bad caps can cause all kinds of issues. If you're going to be having old Bally games around then get you a bag of those caps. Even though all is working I'd go ahead and put one on the switch that is missing one.

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#9 6 years ago
 
MCD

dasvis

Pinside member

US Salem, OR

12y 101K 4,796 11 16

Quoted from maestro:

I misunderstood the original post and thought you meant they registered in test. It appears you meant the coils work in test though not the switches. My miss.
However bad caps can cause all kinds of issues. If you're going to be having old Bally games around then get you a bag of those caps. Even though all is working I'd go ahead and put one on the switch that is missing one.

Yup, I replace ALL caps & repin ALL connectors on that era Bally pins. I was chasing ghost farts on my Mr & Mrs pacman pin until I did this. Also check all switch diodes for broken solder joints - I had one that was intermittent & was a bitch to find.

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#10 6 years ago
 
BIL

dothedoo

Pinside member

12y 106K 7,265

OP
Quoted from Steve-in-CT:

All that's left is to resolder the capacitor back on the left saucer switch.

Do you mean capacitor or diode? The saucer is not a quick hit switch so it shouldn't have a cap on it.

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#11 6 years ago
 
COX

maestro

Pinside+ Frequent

US Fincastle, VA

9y 51,100 447 21

Quoted from dothedoo:

Do you mean capacitor or diode? The saucer is not a quick hit switch so it shouldn't have a cap on it.

dothedoo I stand corrected sir. My EBD had a cap on its saucer hole. I was having issues with phantom firings so went through replaced all my caps and there was one there. I never questioned it and replaced. Your comment made me chack my schematic and there wasn't one there originally and looking at the matrix above.... nope no cap on the saucers.Perhaps mine was a factory installed error or a later tech put one on? So disregard. No caps on the saucer switches. Glad you found your issue.

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