If it's a liquid, then it will actually just be a bunch of silicone, then the answer is no.

If it is a "cleaner" wax, then no.

If you can afford a $$$$ pinball machine, then you can afford to buy a can of good paste wax, like Blitz.

Lots on pin collectors i know use gerlitz carnauba guitar wax.

Of course "pure Carnauba wax" is as hard as a rock, so if it really is labeled as such, avoid it at all costs.....

I always thought if it was liquid then id pass. But i may have been influenced by vid

Avoid the liquid waxes as they contain a lot of water.

Paste wax contains petroleum distillates. But what can you do? A little petrol never hurt anybody.
I bought a bottle of Mill wax a while back but shied away from using it because of something I had read. But I am finding on older playfields that aren't clear coated that stuff is perfect.

I"m just teasing you.

There are 10,000 different "waxes" sold around the world.

Why be a Genia Pig just because you have some mystery wax in the garage?

Just stick with something great and time tested, like Blitz and leave the silicone & cleaner waxes to the used car lots.

So, which waxes are best for which era of games?

Do petroleum distillates only affect things while the wax is still malleable, and is it inert after it dries?

I've been using meguiar's gold class carnaubua paste wax (which contains petroleum distillates) to coat metal parts after polishing--will it affect neighboring plastic after it dries?

Mill wax contains ether. That's all I know.

The label says kerosene. Close enough

I use this wax, has been great on all my machines. Smells great too. I also use these other cleaning supplies listed here

http://www.pinballsupernova.com/cleaning.html

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Mother's is a PITA to remove from the playfield and the end results were just decent in my opinion.

No wax for DP PF's. It's just not needed, and after N2 and buffing with a dry paper towel, I have balls firing off ramps. For non CC'd PF's I use it, for all WPC's and Sterns, N2 and buffing.

And for anyone getting ready to argue the inevitable again, all those routed WPC's you have that were played to death for years in the hay day that weren't waxed down on location, why do you think you need to protect them now in home use for the 0.05% use in relation you could ever put on them in the rest of your lifetime.

Follow the instructions. Get an applicator pad, moist it with warm water (ring it out very well), then it helps scooping the wax out of the tin. This stuff works great for me. I usually do about 2-3 coats and my playfield a are fast as hell after.

Someone on here recommended the Collinite 840 pre-wax cleaner versus using Novus 2 for play fields. After using it for awhile now, I agree that it's the way to go - Collinite 840 pre-cleaner then Doublecoat Wax.

And smells freakin' terrible! I won't use it just based on that.

Some of the older playfields are alcohol sensitive, meaning it reacts with the lacquer on it. In trying to clean up and polish a rather dirty old EM, I gave it a try and had very good results. I normaly use Meguiars Carnuba after an alcohol cleaning on newer playfields.

Anyone try P21S...???.....heard it was good....I'm new and about to clean/wax for the first time..............Joey

Yep. All waxes contain petroleum distillates. Can't be avoided.

NEVER use a "Cleaner Wax".

Cleaner Waxes are abrasives.

I'm sticking with the two coat Novus 2 combo plus 3 or so coats of Meguiar's Carnauba Wax. Works fine for me.

Chief likes it too.

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I have heard that Johnson Paste Wax is the best product to use…can anyone confirm or deny?

I have never used that. I have used both Mothers Pure Carnauba wax, and Blitz. I have to say, Blitz is awesome! definitely using that from now on. Also, I have found that simple green is much better for removing black ball swirls than alcohol. Use it with a magic eraser. The swirls come off much faster and you don't risk taking up any of the paint in the process.

I would be careful with Simple Green.
It is capable of removing paint, especially with a magic eraser.
I have a 5gal jug I mix up for cleaning purposes,
I have had paint removed from an old floorjack I was degreasing, All I used was diluted simple green and elbow grease.

The return springs for the jack were soaking in diluted simple green and the paint bubbled and scabbed off just like paint stripper.

When something works 'really well' at cleaning a painted surface, usually it is due to removing
the paint that is holding the dirt rather than the dirt from the paint.

I'm not trying to come off as a know it all,
Just be careful when using chemicals on a painted piece of wood.
cheers!

All I know is, I have used both (alcohol and green) on two early SS games (Big Game and Strikes and Spares) I definitely saw some paint show up on my magic eraser when using alcohol, and didn't see anything but dirt on my eraser when using Simple Green. I didn't go crazy and try and rub super hard, I just used a back and forth motion and immediately wiped the area down with a dry microfiber towel, and it was spic and span in no time.

Do you have a preference on removing those pesky ball swirls? I am still new to this stuff, so I am always looking for new tips

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/19#post-1762257

Hey if it works and ya dont see paint, use it.
I was just letting you know that simple green does have the power to remove paint which surprised me as well.
I thought it was just a environment friendly mild cleaner/degreaser.

As for any tips on ball swirls and playfield cleaning/repair,
read Vid's guides. (Posted above...) -Dude is legit...

Simple Green has proven to be amazing for cleaning my WCS94 that I'm working on. For what it's worth, don't let things soak and you should be OK.