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Quoted from solarvalue:Love these, the best choice for keeping older games original.
This literally makes no sense and contradicts itself. Let's put Grandma's couch covers on the game, just like it can from the factory originally.
Quoted from robertmee:Couches are utilitarian...wear out buy another one. They ain't making the games we are protecting anymore. Not even close to a good comparison.
Pins are utilitarian. Tht provide a function of fun. Play them, use them. Enjoy them, don't obsess over toys.
Quoted from robertmee:So when it wears out, you're okay throwing it into the trash like grandmas worn out couch? Guess I prefer saving history...not trashing it.
Maintain it and you won't wear it out in your house. And these games are literally built to be used up and thrown away. We are collecting them, that's not what they were designed for.
Quoted from robertmee:You are correct....just like 60s era spiderman comics were made to be read by kids...but would you throw those on the floor of your room now, or would you put it in an acid free sleeve to protect it from further damage? 50s era corvettes were made to drive...Park one now under a tree or in a locked garage? Your argument about what they were made for in the 60s to 80s is spurious and holds no merit.
Most games from that era suffer from cupped inserts, flaking art, checked playfields...waxing and hoping isn't going to preserve the art. A protector will. I own 14 games...only 1 has a protector because it has damage already prior to my purchase. It's going on route, so I'd prefer with heavy use, it not be damaged further. I fail to see how that's so hard to understand.
I'd rather play a worn field then a protector. A worn field plays better.
Quoted from pinzrfun:I disagree somewhat. Cupped inserts, even in a home environment, can quickly cause wear/ damage. The only protector I have is on Old Chicago, it was in really nice condition and I wanted it to stay that way. I began to notice insert wear on Alladins Castle and decided to do my first ever clear coat job on it. While a lot of work it sure looks nice! A protector would have been the only other option.
Cupped inserts don't cause wear. Raised or sunken one do. A cupped insert edges are still even with the field. They will affect ball travel though. Fortunately, on those old games not of the inserts were blank so they can be replaced. I'm not against the protector in all cases, but with the exception of unplayable bad games they just make the game okay worse. Putting them on new games is stupid.
Quoted from cottonm4:You guys that cut them off...yeah it is a quick way to resolve your issue. But if you take the time and the hassle of removing it in one piece you now have a pattern you can use to make a new one for cheap.
Why do that when you can waste money on a new one?
Quoted from whthrs166:Here is one for ya: I have had my MM for about 4 years now. Played it like normal but always had problems with hitting all the switches all the time in the orbits. Also had problems with lots of pop outs on Merlin's Hole (with a Cliffy) . Installed a protector on it last year. No more issues with the switches on the orbit. No more issues with Merlin's hole (still using the Cliffy) . The machine actually plays better with the protector. Can't really explain the orbit improvement.
you adjusted the switches and the game plays slower, so less rejects, and less running high on the orbit guide.
Quoted from spinal:Let me phrase this playfield question another way...
Let’s say you visit the pinball museum of your dreams... and every game is tuned even better than when originally released , and whether you approach an old classic or a brand new game... you notice there’s a plastic playfield protector on it.
Do you say to yourself...
1. Yes, I love playfield protectors and I’m so happy there are on all these games I’ve always wanted to play... or...
2. Not ideal but I guess it’s still OK... or...
3. Fu@k me! Why the fu@k are there playfield protectors on all these games! I wanted to feel the original for f’s sake - what kind of museum is this?!
Pinball to me is about the *ideal*, it’s about reaching toward games and experiences that are as great as can be with no compromizes. At it’s best it’s about something being as good as it can be. It’s visiting a friend’s fine-tuned collection or going to a comp and seeing the best example of a game that is possible and just saying wow, this is fantastic. For me, the dream is playing a HEP game, mint as can be, even better than factory mint, and playing it and saying to yourself that this is the best playing example of the game you have ever played.
This is just what the ideal pinball experience is to me and all I’m saying is that a playfield protector has about as much chance of being part of that ideal as there is Chris feom HEP insisting that all his restores now come with protectors.
I respect all the other reasons for loving the protectors, fix the beater, protect the router and cover grandma’s couch. I’m just saying it’s not for me.
So pick 1, 2 or 3 above and that pretty much sums up where your at
easily somewhere between 2 and 3. I'd probably drop a dollar then that was it, all while wishing it played right so I could drop more.
Quoted from Aniraf:There has to be an experiment we could run to prove/disprove all of this talk about the game playing differently. I feel like I have seen the same ball physics on the waxed protector as I have seen on a waxed clear coat pf. I have never seen the “slide” that people are talking about. I don’t know how that would be possible as the PET G should always have a rougher surface than automotive clear coat.
Furthermore, people rave about the “hardtop” restorations…how is this different? They use the same exact product base correct?
Hard tops are not different, they suck too.
Quoted from cottonm4:Well, Marvin, I gotta say you are consistent. Either be happy to play on a blown out POS play field with missing paint and caved in inserts or go buy a new pin. You sure are a man of options.
They you don't actually read what I've written. A fully blown field is bad and a hardtop is better than nothing in that case. But there are people showing games they are sanding the art off of for a hard top that have minimal wear. Taking a reasonable condition game and destroying it for a hard top is stupid. Those and protectors are last resort fixes. They shouldn't be first choice.
Quoted from mrm_4:Oooooof I beg to differ there. This outta get good.
Why, you seem to like them, I don't whats the issue? You and anyone else can put that stuff on your games all day. I won't. There's no issue at all.
From what I know, that mylar is factory. So, I love this concept of people saying the playfield protector is something inferior to a factory experience when in reality there are plenty of factory play fields covered in clear coat or mylar.
/blockquote>Mylar was factory in a lot of cases, people who take those games home often remove it so the game plays better.
Quoted from Aniraf:Does mylar play better than the plastic protector? Not trying to be a troll, genuinely curious.
yes, since its bonded to the PF and not floating. But no mylar is better. Lose mylar really sucks.
Quoted from Steveboos:I am so close to purchasing one for my F-14 tomcat due to the fact that 80% of the inserts are raised. The mylar is so bad that i can't get them completely flush with the playfield. And removing mylar isn't an option as all the artwork and decals will come up with it. Stupid System 11's. Anyone used a playfield protector for raised inserts?
What decals? The insert text is screened just like the rest of the art. If the mylar is lifted the text is still down it won't hurt anything. Mylar can't stop you from leveling the inserts at all. The mylar might be bumpy but the inserts can easily be leveled.
Quoted from Gatecrasher:Do you have a playfield protector?
I do. I have three of them now with another on order.
Congrats, I prefer to play my games as they were designed. I also don't have plastic on my couches.
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:I've heard a couple stories about Big Lebowski slings getting decimated. With some of these rarer titles that probably aren't getting a second set of slings I'd do anything to hedge my bets.
I think you are thinking of the plastic protector/washers that people put under elevated plastics. This is about the full loose plastic sheets people are putting on the playfields.
Quoted from Gatecrasher:It's just as I suspected.
If you don't really have one then you're just trolling.
Having an opinion isn't trolling.
Quoted from Durzel:What are Newton rings?
Most commonly seen on translights. Ever see a translight that looks like its got water in spots between it and the glass? That's the newton rings, it's a reflection interference issue between the surfaces.
Quoted from Durzel:Ah yes, I have seen those in places too. Assumed it was some kind of liquid underneath?
it can be, but pins are usually dry and its just physics.
Quoted from Gatecrasher:Go buy one and then get back to us with an educated response.
no need to waste my cash. I've played on them. They serve a purpose and its not for a new field. its for a destroyed field to be playable. Since I don't have my money invested in this I don't need to cheerlead for it and can give an unbiased thought.
Quoted from Gatecrasher:I bet you claim you can give an unbiased opinion on a lot of things.
I don't think you have to worry about being accused of "cheerleading" a product you've never tried. lol
so you can't read?
Quoted from harryhoudini:Dang. Thoughts on using a blowdryer maybe? Since I have no idea
what those actually are, just stabbing in the dark. Which protector
did you get? I ordered from playfield-protectors.com
unless you have the ability to change physics, you can't stop this. Its reflective interference, its not wet. You're getting reflections from the top surface of the plastic, the bottom surface of the plastic, and the PF. its optical interference.
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:The wet spots seem to be uniquely on the new, thinner models of the pf protectors. I have the spots on BKSOR, MBR, and JJP POTC, but none on the thicker models before those that I have on DI, IJ, older games.
I suppose it could be clear coat changes across three manufacturers, but it seems more likely that the Mirco protectors are causing the effect, right?
Simply a reflective interference pattern.
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