I just picked up a Flintstones in decent shape and at a good price (for the current pinball state of the world). My question is about the translite frame... the previous owner pointed out that the top of the translite frame frequently comes off when you remove it from the game. I noticed that the sides are also very loose. It appears that tape was used to hold the whole thing together in the past. My question is whether this game has just a single sheet of plexiglass that the translite goes behind, or did it originally have a sheet in front of and behind it? It seems like the 4 sides of the frame fit WAY too loose for it to just be a single sheet.

Yeah I would think that could be the case but I just ordered a replacement set from pinball life with the same part numbers as is in the manual... it fits very loose. The manual DOES specifically mention that the glass was originally tempered glass, so maybe the glass was a little thicker than the plexy? I ordered a sheet of the glass from a local glass place for $30 so we will give that a shot. The plexi on this game was a little scratched up anyway...

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I picked up a Flintstones a few weeks ago that is 100% working. I was just getting ready to start replacing the incadescent bulbs with LEDs (warm white only, no clown puke!) when I noticed that there was a lot of flicker going on with the backbox GI bulbs. It also seems to be happening with all the playfield GI as well. This was only happening after the game had been turned on for a few minutes.

Running through the settings, I noticed that there is a power saver mode that can be disabled. When I disabled that, the game no longer flickers. However, when I first got it, the bulbs did not flicker even with this setting enabled. Is this a connector/header/pin issue, or something flaky with the power? Is there any harm in running the game all the time with power saver disabled?

I'm glad this started happening before I replaced bulbs with LEDs, because I would have had to rip all the LEDs out thinking that they were at fault with the flickering!

I noticed! I am working on one myself right now and was making good progress until I shorted something out while replacing bulbs with LEDs and now have the dreaded "Check F114 and F115" error when it starts up... waiting on a fuse to replace the one that I know is actually blown and then will see if there is any other damage.

Where did you find the small houses that you replaced the figures in the back of the cabinet? I like that much better than the LED strip I put under the original plastic figures.

Is this the one you mean?

CB8EC801-C114-462F-A694-91CCD8D6988A (resized).jpeg

Good luck finding the part! I have had pretty good luck with finding parts from vendors in Australia, for some reason. Most of the non-standard parts for this game are not available from the usual USA sellers but I have had good luck with plastics and light boards and other such parts from Australian sellers, and the shipping is not THAT bad...

Mine makes a loud pop when powering on, followed by a "dong" sound when startup completes.

I also had the same non-symnetric speakers but I replaced mine with Flipper Fidelity, which are both the same.

The Flipper Fidelity kit comes with its own wiring harnesses, so that part was easy. The sound was definitely better, but not quite in the league of the Pinwoofer kit for modern Stern games. A subwoofer gives the game a lot of punch… I used the Pinnovators kit to hook up a Polk sub.

ebay.com link: itm

I bought one from this guy, I think...

I have sleeves on mine and every so often a ball will stick… but my game always gives the machine a 1/4 or 1/2 turn as sort of a mini ball search and frees the ball. Never had to take the glass off to free a ball.