Another question. I noticed that sometimes the launcher doesn't quite get the balls out of the shooter lane during a multiball. Sometimes they bounce back into the trough and kills the multiball. Any fixes for this?
Another question. I noticed that sometimes the launcher doesn't quite get the balls out of the shooter lane during a multiball. Sometimes they bounce back into the trough and kills the multiball. Any fixes for this?
Does anyone make insert decals for this? In need of a ‘T’ for in Concrete and the Dig millions insert
Quoted from BurnDizzyBurn:Does anyone make insert decals for this? In need of a ‘T’ for in Concrete and the Dig millions insert
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1026-pinball-haus/by-game/187-flintstones
I bought some stuff from him including the letter decals and waiting for them to get over to me in Virginia from Australia. He has other nice decals for Flintstones as well.
I’m also after a set of plastic ramps if anyone has a new set? I know Marco has them but I refuse to pay the $200 they want to ship them to the UK!
Sign me up gang. So stoked to get this sleeper classic in the line up.
Looking forward to working my way through the 23 pages of knowledge. Here’s a couple of pics of the one I just picked up
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Sign me up gang. So stoked to get this sleeper classic in the line up.
Looking forward to working my way through the 23 pages of knowledge. Here’s a couple of pics of the one I just picked up[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thats awesome and looks great!
Someone did all the work for you.
And isnt Fred the original Family Guy?
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Thats awesome and looks great!
Someone did all the work for you.
And isnt Fred the original Family Guy?
Yes saved me a job. I always wanted a flintstones with the classic art so it’s a win win. Not sure about the family guy connection though
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Yes saved me a job. I always wanted a flintstones with the classic art so it’s a win win. Not sure about the family guy connection though
You have it next to Flintstones. I was making a cartoon joke.
I picked up a nice Flintstones at the beginning of February. First time I bought a pre-owned game and all the LEDs were installed (I usually get the "most LEDs except for the really hard to reach places installation"). It had no errors. All lamps, GI, flashers, coils, and switches working. So I have been playing it to see what needs to be adjusted. I bought a translite from Germany and decals from the Netherlands Feb 23 but they both have not arrived yet. I want to go more with the cartoon look.
My only remaining "issue" is when the ball goes up the right lane and the diverter is down, the ball spins out of the right inlane. Sometimes it goes to the outlane. Sometimes it dribbles down the front of the sling. But it makes it difficult to bowl. After carefully watching the ball, it appeared that the ball was dropping onto the rubber around the post in front of the rod that lifts the gate. You can see in the first photo, I removed the rubber and you can see that the ball has been hitting at the 9 o'clock position and bouncing erratically. This solved about 75% of the problems. But the erratic ball behavior continued. It looked like the ball would hit the diverter and then slide really fast out the hole at an angle. In the second picture, I added a small felt dot on the diverter where the ball was mostly hitting. These are easily removed if needed. For good measure, I added one at the end as shown in the third photo. Occasionally, the ball will spin out. But for the most part, It has allowed the ball to correctly fall into the inlane. This makes the game much less frustrating. I also did the same changes on the left side.
IMG_5639 (resized).jpegIMG_5640 (resized).jpegIMG_5641 (resized).jpegQuoted from mbelofsky:I picked up a nice Flintstones at the beginning of February. First time I bought a pre-owned game and all the LEDs were installed (I usually get the "most LEDs except for the really hard to reach places installation"). It had no errors. All lamps, GI, flashers, coils, and switches working. So I have been playing it to see what needs to be adjusted. I bought a translite from Germany and decals from the Netherlands Feb 23 but they both have not arrived yet. I want to go more with the cartoon look.
My only remaining "issue" is when the ball goes up the right lane and the diverter is down, the ball spins out of the right inlane. Sometimes it goes to the outlane. Sometimes it dribbles down the front of the sling. But it makes it difficult to bowl. After carefully watching the ball, it appeared that the ball was dropping onto the rubber around the post in front of the rod that lifts the gate. You can see in the first photo, I removed the rubber and you can see that the ball has been hitting at the 9 o'clock position and bouncing erratically. This solved about 75% of the problems. But the erratic ball behavior continued. It looked like the ball would hit the diverter and then slide really fast out the hole at an angle. In the second picture, I added a small felt dot on the diverter where the ball was mostly hitting. These are easily removed if needed. For good measure, I added one at the end as shown in the third photo. Occasionally, the ball will spin out. But for the most part, It has allowed the ball to correctly fall into the inlane. This makes the game much less frustrating. I also did the same changes on the left side.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That rubber looks a little too large. It looks like a 3/8. It should be a 3/16.
Also make sure to slide the post to its most top position. That way the ball will not hit it when it drops down.
Otherwise it look exactly like my own machine. Strange don't need the felt in mine. Is your playfield angle too steep?
Quoted from BioBa:That rubber looks a little too large. It looks like a 3/8. It should be a 3/16.
Also make sure to slide the post to its most top position. That way the ball will not hit it when it drops down.
Otherwise it look exactly like my own machine. Strange don't need the felt in mine. Is your playfield angle too steep?
Thanks. I will try a smaller rubber on the post and move it to the top position. I'll check my play field angle. It just seemed to slide around the diverter when it doesn't fall straight down (and now works fine without the rubber at the moment), it appears to bounce against the sling rubber which was also very dirty in one specific spot. The felt dot on the diverter did slow down the ball the few times it felt like it slid around and out. The felt tab I added near the hole was to satisfy me and as far as I can tell, hasn't really helped or hurt since I did not see the ball even hit that area.
Thanks for the information above. My playfield was at 8 degrees. I moved the back legs all the way down. Now it is 6.7 degrees and much better.
I replaced the back glass with the cartoon translite. I added game blades. I bought 7 PVC figurines from Ebay from 1990 and placed them around the game.
I am still waiting (since 2/23) for a package from Australia to arrive for decals on the targets and to cover the actors. It is definitely the slowness of the parcel system due to COVID-19. (just an update that this package finally arrived 5/27 - 3 months on a slow boat from Australia )
I also replaced the bowling pins and holder since the metal ramp entrance like material was bending and allowing the pins to spin around. It didn't affect the game but it didn't look good. I had to raise up the back left ramp circular area so it did not rest on top of the pin bracket and lock the pins in place. I used felt dots. Hopefully this will stay.
IMG_6073 (resized).jpegIMG_6074 (resized).jpegIMG_6075 (resized).jpegIMG_6076 (resized).jpegIMG_6077 (resized).jpegIMG_6078 (resized).jpegIMG_6079 (resized).jpegIMG_6080 (resized).jpeg
Two small issues I worked on this evening.
1. As shown in the prior post, I added the 7 characters around the playfield using Quake Hold - earthquake putty. It does a great job on flat surfaces. But Fred was on a surface that pitched forward. He kept falling off. Now I am trying a small square velcro to hold him down. It should be reversible.
2. When I replaced the pin assembly, it worked great and the pins moved correctly. But once in place, the loop of the ramp was sitting on the metal plate and causing the tops that go through the assembly to be pressed in place and not move. It didn't really affect the targets but they just were stuck in place.
I placed a 1 inch felt pad about 3/16" tall on the metal plate in front of the right most pin so the pin moves freely. This provides the clearance such that the ramp does not press down on the tops of the pins so they can rock back and forth smoothly.
IMG_6198 (resized).jpegIMG_6199 (resized).jpegIMG_6197 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from ThatOneDude:Anyone running pin2dmd in this machine?
There is a pin2dmd colour project available; I am the author It has a sexy 3 shade gradient on the main score which really stands out!
http://vpuniverse.com/forums/files/file/5628-the-flintstones-real
Quoted from slippifishi:There is a pin2dmd colour project available; I am the author It has a sexy 3 shade gradient on the main score which really stands out!
I'm building a pin2dmd board now. I'd like to try it out. Out of curiosity, how difficult would it be to redraw the movie specific animation with a more cartoon style of art?
Quoted from ThatOneDude:I'm building a pin2dmd board now. I'd like to try it out. Out of curiosity, how difficult would it be to redraw the movie specific animation with a more cartoon style of art?
I considered replacing the game intro scene close up of Fred/John Goodman, but its such a short scene/over so quickly I decided not to. The only other one I can think of in game is the bowling power up and that could be replaced too, in theory, though I am not such a great artist, especially with only 128x32 pixels All the other animations are all pretty much cartoon style already I think?
EDIT: Both are replace scenes, for the most part, but the bowling powerup scene can transition out, and that would be difficult to handle with a replacement scene.
I got a final problem I'm trying to fix. When I push the Launch button, it shows slam tilt and the game will not launch the ball. Seems to happen more when the game has been on for an hour or two. Any thoughts?
Quoted from sbmania:I got a final problem I'm trying to fix. When I push the Launch button, it shows slam tilt and the game will not launch the ball. Seems to happen more when the game has been on for an hour or two. Any thoughts?
The switch matrix shows that the launch button (Rock Me) is with 11 at the top left on the same row as the Slam switch (21) right next to it.
The both share the White / Brown wire. Check the diode on both switches to ensure it is not bad or not shorting. And the white brown wire is not shorting to any metal.
If you go to T1 Switch Edges and test all the switches in the first row, you may see some strange behavior.
Quoted from sbmania:What's the best color DMD for Flintstones?
I have the same question. LED vs LCD? Probably personal preference, but I’ve heard some say one looks better on certain games
Quoted from ThatOneDude:Anyone running pin2dmd in this machine?
I am. It looks really good.
Hi guys, just discovered this thread... wow!
I have problems with my GI "string 1" on Flintstones, this results in that the 5xlamps pcb behind the machine not working (everything else seems to be working).
I asked a question in another thread, about connecting the 5xlamps pcb to another GI string... apparantly this is considered to be a bad idea due to overload risks at the other GI strings.
My question to you guys is: what GI string on Flintstones has the most unused capacity, hence more suited to connect things to? I want to connect the 5xlamps pcb but also spotlights and other extra lighting. When connecting spotlights, do you usually connect them to any GI lamp or is there a string who is more prefered than other strings for such connections?
Any ideas on how to repair this playfield? I am thinking of paint or water slide decal.
Never done if before though so any thoughts are appreciated.
If water slide is the best, should the decal only cover the damaged area or bigger, how much bigger?
Maybe it is best left untouched?
6046 (resized).jpgThx, however, that wont fix the "The", also I live in sweden so I think i need to find another solution.
Thanks to a lot of inspiring examples here i also spent a lot of time in quarantine making upgrades:
-installed a Pin2dmd evolution, the colors are amazing
-replaced the annoying Rosie O Donnel translite with the cartoon version
-replaced all playfield light bulbs with LEDs (Noflix plus)
-lit up the dinosaur, houses (this was fairly easy with a box cutter), the machine area when it’s in motion (looks awesome) and the backright area (which usually is very dark). All these mods came from eBay seller judge-dreads-pinball)
-still waiting for the playfield cartoon replacement decal to arrive
I might still want to install red leds to give the dinosaur red eyes (saw it somewhere here), but need to figure out how first
21DE8C91-974A-4A87-9E91-A166CB3009A5 (resized).jpeg86C17FA0-1EFC-4D9D-83C0-CAD6DFDE8FE7 (resized).jpegA4D59AE1-174C-4B7F-89F8-7EC69B67E647 (resized).jpegF4743D58-D73C-40BE-86B0-26DC9E4302F8 (resized).jpegB7090A9A-CF7A-43C1-81A8-5EC60AC0FF0F (resized).jpeg8D3B204C-EFDD-4347-8598-0A0FDF98C6BB (resized).jpegGot the pin2dmd built and tested. Working well. I'm going to finish cleaning this up this weekend. Very cool! Thanks slippifishi !
Just joined the club. It doesn’t look like any of my flashers are working.
I tried the test mode, however, the diagnostics don’t seem to be cooperating either. I’m pretty new at electronics. Can someone point me in the right direction ( using layman’s terms if possible) for checking/fixing the flashers?
Thanks
Quoted from ravve:Any ideas on how to repair this playfield? I am thinking of paint or water slide decal.
Never done if before though so any thoughts are appreciated.
If water slide is the best, should the decal only cover the damaged area or bigger, how much bigger?
Maybe it is best left untouched?
[quoted image]
I am late at responding, but I had a very similar looking FS playfield. Someone tried to fix mine with poly which turned yellow. I sanded off the poly, hit it with one coat of clear, then used the waterslide technique vid described here on pinside. Great results.
I used clear waterslide and first airbrushed the section white. I had to do all of Freds clothing to match the color, but it looks like you may be fine with just the legs. It takes time, but I had fun doing it.
Quoted from Pizzaman13:Just joined the club. It doesn’t look like any of my flashers are working.
I tried the test mode, however, the diagnostics don’t seem to be cooperating either. I’m pretty new at electronics. Can someone point me in the right direction ( using layman’s terms if possible) for checking/fixing the flashers?
Thanks
Did you check F111 as shown on page 1-39 of the manual? This is the flasher secondary. I'll send you and email with my contact if you would like to do facetime or such and I can walk you through this.
Quoted from mbelofsky:Did you check F111 as shown on page 1-39 of the manual?
Thanks for the response and the PM. Fuses are good. LED is lit. I’ll PM you to see if we can connect this week. Thanks.
Huge thanks to mbelofsky who walked me through multiple steps diagnosing my flasher problem and the ultimately fixing the missing trace for me! I learned a great deal along the way. Teach a man to fish....
Thanks again for all the guidance and education along the way.
Hey, talking about flashers, I got a question. I was wanting to convert my flashers to leds. How many are there for each type of bulb?
Quoted from Brewchap:How many are there for each type of bulb?
Page 2-44 of the manual will give you the full count of #906 and #89 you would need. If you don’t have the manual, you can find a copy on IMDb.com
https://www.ipdb.org/files/888/Williams_1994_The_Flintstones_English_Manual.pdf
Hope that helps.
Quoted from Pizzaman13:Page 2-44 of the manual will give you the full count of #906 and #89 you would need. If you don’t have the manual, you can find a copy on IMDb.com
https://www.ipdb.org/files/888/Williams_1994_The_Flintstones_English_Manual.pdf
Hope that helps.
Yes it does help. I must have over looked it. Thank you
Hi Flintstoners. Has any come across a problem with a weak left flipper whilst you are in multiball?And if you have how did you fix it . Thanks Scott.
I had the same problem this past weekend. I guessing that your talking about the left upper flipper? I cleaned and adjusted the lower left flipper contacts/EOS. Then made sure that the left upper flipper was adjusted and clean correctly also.
i have seen this Tongue decal a few places.
But I have absolutely no idea where it goes on the machine? anybody that knows?
Quoted from Mrjohnsen:But I have absolutely no idea where it goes on the machine? anybody that knows?
On the dinosaur, it’s the ramp flap decal. Look inside its mouth.
Quoted from Brewchap:I had the same problem this past weekend. I guessing that your talking about the left upper flipper? I cleaned and adjusted the lower left flipper contacts/EOS. Then made sure that the left upper flipper was adjusted and clean correctly also.
Cheers Brewchap I will give that a try. Thanks mate. Scott
Quoted from bowtech:Back in the club! Traded for this beauty. Daughter was upset when I sold the first one for my Metallica. She is ecstatic to have it back. Quite and upgrade from my first one.
[quoted image]
What DMD is that? (LCD or LED)
Quoted from The_Pump_House:These three lamps are out on my Flintstones
They are flashers, 12 volt
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