(Topic ID: 46106)

Flintstones Owners Club- post and see pics, mods, ideas here


By blondetall

6 years ago



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  • 1,083 posts
  • 185 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by RB0135
  • Topic is favorited by 74 Pinsiders

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There are 1083 posts in this topic. You are on page 22 of 22.
#1051 5 months ago

My wire gate that is positioned in the top right of the pf is broken.
Can anyone sketch this gate, with the dimensions so that I can try and make a new one please.

#1052 5 months ago

I have the original rom installed and would like to upgrade. Which version should I seek to purchase? And is replacing the chip easy? Just pulling out the old one and sticking this one instead? I always thought it would require removing the board and soldering the replacement on.

Lastly, what do the sound chips offer? Better quality sound? Added sounds not available originally?

Thanks!

#1053 4 months ago

Here is the first touch of the newly lit playfield....there’s more to do, stuff to change, but this is the start the bottom will be a tad more on the purple side of things when I order the correct stuff.

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#1054 4 months ago

I should take these with the glass off

#1055 4 months ago
Quoted from shokel328:

I should take these with the glass off

After you do that set the machine to free play.

#1056 4 months ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

After you do that set the machine to free play.

sometimes I set the machines to coins only even though there’s no coin mech... I can’t explain it. Maybe because when I was young I always loved it when the tech guy would come to give a credit so I could take a peak inside - and I always knew I’d have the key all to myself one day...now I get to open it up every time and hit that credit button as many times as I please

#1057 4 months ago
Quoted from shokel328:

sometimes I set the machines to coins only even though there’s no coin mech... I can’t explain it. Maybe because when I was young I always loved it when the tech guy would come to give a credit so I could take a peak inside - and I always knew I’d have the key all to myself one day...now I get to open it up every time and hit that credit button as many times as I please

All my games are set on credits!
The goal is to earn as many free games as I can, so I dont have to open the door.
But when they run out, I own the keys.

#1058 4 months ago
Quoted from shokel328:

sometimes I set the machines to coins only even though there’s no coin mech... I can’t explain it. Maybe because when I was young I always loved it when the tech guy would come to give a credit so I could take a peak inside - and I always knew I’d have the key all to myself one day...now I get to open it up every time and hit that credit button as many times as I please

Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

All my games are set on credits!
The goal is to earn as many free games as I can, so I dont have to open the door.
But when they run out, I own the keys.

Fair enough, to each his own I guess. I just personally like to set it and forget it and only open up for routine cleaning and maintenance issues.

#1059 4 months ago

Does anyone know which fuse would be in charge lighting? F108? The ones around that one? I have the jetbumpers, dig inlanes, bowlorama tiny lamps and the top half of the backbox with no power. Tried to add a comet matrix crocodile clamp to one of the DIG inlane GI’s and all of the above turned off...

1 month later
#1060 85 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Does it have an nvram installed or batteries? If batteries check those 1st

I replaced the caps and bridge rectifier on driver board and now games works again, minus a couple random unknown resets. It has the batteries though.

3 weeks later
#1061 63 days ago

Hi Flintstones owners I'm having trouble with my extra ball lamp holder, lamp stopped working but the globe was ok swapped it with another globe and yeah it's the holder that's the issue.
I can't see anything wrong with the holder, the globe sits ok and makes contact with the base spring, I cleaned it up with isopropyl but still no go.

As I have not got a spare holder like that I thought I would see how a normal wedge base socket would go but it now lights up all the time even if I add a diode.

Is there some way I can get this going without buying a three terminal lamp holder?

I had a quick look around and found this one which I think would be correct, does anyone know what value diode I should put with it?
https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/williams-parts/the-flintstones/lbk-004.html

#1062 63 days ago

anyone have some purple plastics? maybe you got new and have old? Please Pm me with what you got.
Thanks

#1063 58 days ago
Quoted from Rat:

.. does anyone know what value diode I should put with it? ...

Pretty much any diode will be ok. 1N4148 or it's equiv 1N914 were used originally but 1N4001 will work if you have them on hand. They aren't critical.

Edit - you shouldn't have problems with a lamp socket. Have you tried soldering the nipple to the wire tag - sometimes this connection becomes iffy.

#1064 54 days ago
Quoted from SYS6:

Pretty much any diode will be ok. 1N4148 or it's equiv 1N914 were used originally but 1N4001 will work if you have them on hand. They aren't critical.

Edit - you shouldn't have problems with a lamp socket. Have you tried soldering the nipple to the wire tag - sometimes this connection becomes iffy.

Thanks SYS6, I had a 1N4004 diode so used that and have wired it in the same way, now the lamp comes on and it blinks on and off in attract mode but when playing it stays on when it shouldn't, it seems to blink faster when you actually have an extra ball, but it's on all the time.
I can't see why it would stay on like this, at first I thought maybe I had the diode the wrong way but I tried it swapping it around and it doesn't work at all in other orientations.

Your suggestion of wiring the nipple to the wire tag, do you mean soldering an extra wire directly onto the lamp nipple and running that through the hole on the bottom of the holder and soldering that onto the tag that has the two power wires connected?
I could give that a try if you still suggest that, but it seems that the connection is good.

#1065 54 days ago

Its likely the transistor that turns the light on and off is bad. Test it with a voltmeter and compare it to its neighbors to confirm.

#1066 53 days ago

Rat, on type 44 sockets the centre nipple is riveted to a tag to which the wire is soldered - sometimes this connection is flakey because it's only pressure holding it in place - so you can put a blob of solder over the rivet and tag to ensure good electrical connection - doesn't sound likely now from what you've described.

How's it behave in single lamp test? Any problems with other lamps in the same row or column? Run through the test routine for all in single lamp and this may reveal something.

1 week later
#1067 42 days ago

Has anybody made a custom sound ROM with the cartoon character voices?

#1068 42 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Has anybody made a custom sound ROM with the cartoon character voices?

Good question, areally nice pinsound mix would be nice.

#1069 41 days ago

I may be going to look at this title this weekend to purchase and I was hoping owners could alert me to specific trouble spots to look for. Any tips would be appreciated as I havent had much exposure to this particular pin

#1070 41 days ago
Quoted from msj2222:

I may be going to look at this title this weekend to purchase and I was hoping owners could alert me to specific trouble spots to look for. Any tips would be appreciated as I havent had much exposure to this particular pin

Seems like the pop bumpers are always beat and need to be rebuilt. The orher issue I would look at is "The Machine" mechanism. Make sure the VUK pops freely and that the motor spins the disc freely. Other than that mine has been problem free.

#1071 41 days ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Good question, areally nice pinsound mix would be nice.

Sure as hell would.

#1072 40 days ago

I just bugged PPS for plastics sets. Hope we can get them soon!

#1073 40 days ago
Quoted from pin-pimp:

I just bugged PPS for plastics sets. Hope we can get them soon!

I just need like four purple one's, it's driving me crazy.

#1074 35 days ago
Quoted from SYS6:

Rat, on type 44 sockets the centre nipple is riveted to a tag to which the wire is soldered - sometimes this connection is flakey because it's only pressure holding it in place - so you can put a blob of solder over the rivet and tag to ensure good electrical connection - doesn't sound likely now from what you've described.

How's it behave in single lamp test? Any problems with other lamps in the same row or column? Run through the test routine for all in single lamp and this may reveal something.

I just replaced the diode on this socket again (I had tried that before) and now it works as it should, not sure what I stuffed up before or why it wasn't working. Strangely it still doesn't light up in attract mode (all other lamps seem to) but it works fine during test mode and in game play.

Thanks to everyone who gave me suggestions happy day

2 weeks later
#1075 16 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Hot damn... your washer trick appeared to be the fix. I just hit 8 ramp shots and all went all the way around and didnt fall off. Thanks

I just got my FS on Saturday, and this was the first question I was going to ask, then stumbled upon here. I thought to myself when I looked at it, what if I just untightened the screw a bit or put a washer under it as it seemed the only place to adjust it.

Well, as you have discovered, that is the trick. All I had to do was loosen the screw. It didnt look original, so maybe it was over tightened previously. My right side was perfect, left fell off 99.9% of the time, yet the playfield everywhere is level and the machine is at the recommended 6 degs incline....

Thankyou all..

#1076 16 days ago
Quoted from Jwblocal701:

Installing a light kit from
PinballBulbs.com
Must say there kit is fantastic
[quoted image]

Hi, In your image, you have some nice Free Play Card and Rules card with Fred on it. Long shot here, but at these obtainable anywhere?

Thanks, Rob

Added 14 days ago:

To reply to my own question: I did find this website with some great/different play/pricing cards: http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/instruction/

Thanks...

#1077 12 days ago

Hi All,

Need some help/pointers in the right direction.

My DMD screen is missing the top most row and the far right column of the display. It doesnt detract too much, but I would like to try and fix it. The rest of the screen is perfect, with clarity and same brightness across all other pixels.

Im presuming this is one of the pin issues on the DMD unit itself and not a bad controller board.

Is there a document or similar that shows which pins control the matrix so I can narrow down the problem, or has someone had this issue and fixed it before.

Thanks for any pointers but please don't suggest to just buy a new DMD.. I don't like wastage and having sound Electronics knowledge, I probably more than capable of fixing the fault... But, I have never had one of these to try and repair.

Rob

#1078 11 days ago

If you look closely at the DMD, you will see very small pins at the top and side of the display, one each for every row and column. Look at the corresponding pins to the column and row you are missing and you will likely see that the pin has broken right where the pin goes into the glass. The fix is simple - just solder the pin back to the nub. The problem is, there is usually so little nub that it is very difficult to get enough solder on it to hold the pin, which is under some spring tension also.

I have had mixed success in repairing this. Sometimes the solder will hold, sometimes it will break again in a short period of time, and sometimes I just cant get the solder to hold at all. Others claim to have had success with liquid solder type applications, but I have never tried it. I usually just replace the DMD if I can't live with it.
But give repair a try. It won't hurt anything if it fails, and you might just get lucky.
PS Using a non-conductive item like a pencil, you can often push the broken pin back in place temporarily with the display on and see if the missing row or column appears. This confirms which pin is which.

#1079 11 days ago
Quoted from sbmania:

If you look closely at the DMD, you will see very small pins at the top and side of the display, one each for every row and column. Look at the corresponding pins to the column and row you are missing and you will likely see that the pin has broken right where the pin goes into the glass. The fix is simple - just solder the pin back to the nub. The problem is, there is usually so little nub that it is very difficult to get enough solder on it to hold the pin, which is under some spring tension also.
I have had mixed success in repairing this. Sometimes the solder will hold, sometimes it will break again in a short period of time, and sometimes I just cant get the solder to hold at all. Others claim to have had success with liquid solder type applications, but I have never tried it. I usually just replace the DMD if I can't live with it.
But give repair a try. It won't hurt anything if it fails, and you might just get lucky.
PS Using a non-conductive item like a pencil, you can often push the broken pin back in place temporarily with the display on and see if the missing row or column appears. This confirms which pin is which.

Thanks for your reply... I was hoping it might just be the pins because the rest of the display is perfect.... Now, I have to find some time to check it...

1 week later
#1080 2 days ago

Need some help with the Round Stand Up targets, right hand side, the ones with the Shell decal on the playfield next to them.

When I got my Flintstones (3 weeks ago) I noticed the right hand side Stand Up targets, one was a different colour (red), and the other 2 were pretty worn white ones.

I bought three, and install them this weekend.

However, although I wired them exactly as the ones that came out, the middle one (which was red) triggers the lower target, and the lower target triggers nothing.

So, this is making me wonder if it ever worked (with the Red target). Its one of those things I never ever looked at.

I have the Manual, but these are shown in any wiring diagram (Ive read it about 10 times, but I could have missed it each time)..

I haven't check the left hand ones. They are correct in that the top lights the opt shell, middle the middle shell and bottom the bottom shell.

So, my question is: does anyone have a wiring diagram for these, or a picture, or can provide assistance? Would the Left hand side just be a mirror and I could go by that? I ran out of time this weekend to continue checking, so Ive hit the web for help.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Rob

#1081 2 days ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

I just need like four purple one's, it's driving me crazy.

pinball center had some I ordered, not great but better than nothing

#1082 1 day ago
Quoted from RB0135:

Need some help with the Round Stand Up targets, .... Thanks, Rob

Rob, run through the switch test and individual lamp test modes. This may reveal something for you.

#1083 1 day ago
Quoted from SYS6:

Rob, run through the switch test and individual lamp test modes. This may reveal something for you.

Thanks, Great idea.... That actually made it more confusing and I will tell you what I found and fixed...

So, the test showed 1 (top) then 3 (bottom) and not 2. So, I checked the wiring on the other side and found, what I thought was the issue, but it was only part.

So, what I found, that #2 (the red one I mentioned) was setup as a dummy and #1 (top) was linked to #3, rather than the 2nd one and the #2 was also linked to #3. So, I fixed that by jumping 1 to 2 to 3.

Still wouldn't work correctly when the targets were hit.. Running the tests, showed the main feed that should go to the 3rd one was going to the 2nd one and the 2nd feed going to the 3rd. So, I swapped these around, and voila... All working (finally). Cant believe someone would have butchered it like this.

I know this might be confusing, but if you have seen/know the wiring for these, it will make sense.

You learn so much working on your own machine.

Now, I have to fix the Jet Bumpers as they don't do anything when the ball hits them, but thats another story.

Thanks,
Rob

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