(Topic ID: 46106)

Flintstones Owners Club- post and see pics, mods, ideas here

By blondetall

8 years ago


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There are 1,271 posts in this topic. You are on page 22 of 26.
#1051 2 years ago

My wire gate that is positioned in the top right of the pf is broken.
Can anyone sketch this gate, with the dimensions so that I can try and make a new one please.

#1052 2 years ago

I have the original rom installed and would like to upgrade. Which version should I seek to purchase? And is replacing the chip easy? Just pulling out the old one and sticking this one instead? I always thought it would require removing the board and soldering the replacement on.

Lastly, what do the sound chips offer? Better quality sound? Added sounds not available originally?

Thanks!

#1053 2 years ago

Here is the first touch of the newly lit playfield....there’s more to do, stuff to change, but this is the start the bottom will be a tad more on the purple side of things when I order the correct stuff.

0AA640C8-7011-46AD-95BC-9F36B96D9724 (resized).jpeg6AA22D27-BBE4-4FD4-95DE-93B04E2BC554 (resized).jpeg6C13C842-DE97-4FEB-AA18-5112D3B817DF (resized).jpeg9C209DB5-43D1-4D03-ACFB-F19FD180100F (resized).jpeg
#1054 2 years ago

I should take these with the glass off

#1055 2 years ago
Quoted from shokel328:

I should take these with the glass off

After you do that set the machine to free play.

#1056 2 years ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

After you do that set the machine to free play.

sometimes I set the machines to coins only even though there’s no coin mech... I can’t explain it. Maybe because when I was young I always loved it when the tech guy would come to give a credit so I could take a peak inside - and I always knew I’d have the key all to myself one day...now I get to open it up every time and hit that credit button as many times as I please

#1057 2 years ago
Quoted from shokel328:

sometimes I set the machines to coins only even though there’s no coin mech... I can’t explain it. Maybe because when I was young I always loved it when the tech guy would come to give a credit so I could take a peak inside - and I always knew I’d have the key all to myself one day...now I get to open it up every time and hit that credit button as many times as I please

All my games are set on credits!
The goal is to earn as many free games as I can, so I dont have to open the door.
But when they run out, I own the keys.

#1058 2 years ago
Quoted from shokel328:

sometimes I set the machines to coins only even though there’s no coin mech... I can’t explain it. Maybe because when I was young I always loved it when the tech guy would come to give a credit so I could take a peak inside - and I always knew I’d have the key all to myself one day...now I get to open it up every time and hit that credit button as many times as I please

Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

All my games are set on credits!
The goal is to earn as many free games as I can, so I dont have to open the door.
But when they run out, I own the keys.

Fair enough, to each his own I guess. I just personally like to set it and forget it and only open up for routine cleaning and maintenance issues.

#1059 2 years ago

Does anyone know which fuse would be in charge lighting? F108? The ones around that one? I have the jetbumpers, dig inlanes, bowlorama tiny lamps and the top half of the backbox with no power. Tried to add a comet matrix crocodile clamp to one of the DIG inlane GI’s and all of the above turned off...

1 month later
#1060 2 years ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Does it have an nvram installed or batteries? If batteries check those 1st

I replaced the caps and bridge rectifier on driver board and now games works again, minus a couple random unknown resets. It has the batteries though.

3 weeks later
#1061 2 years ago

Hi Flintstones owners I'm having trouble with my extra ball lamp holder, lamp stopped working but the globe was ok swapped it with another globe and yeah it's the holder that's the issue.
I can't see anything wrong with the holder, the globe sits ok and makes contact with the base spring, I cleaned it up with isopropyl but still no go.

As I have not got a spare holder like that I thought I would see how a normal wedge base socket would go but it now lights up all the time even if I add a diode.

Is there some way I can get this going without buying a three terminal lamp holder?

I had a quick look around and found this one which I think would be correct, does anyone know what value diode I should put with it?
https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/williams-parts/the-flintstones/lbk-004.html

#1062 2 years ago

anyone have some purple plastics? maybe you got new and have old? Please Pm me with what you got.
Thanks

#1063 2 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

.. does anyone know what value diode I should put with it? ...

Pretty much any diode will be ok. 1N4148 or it's equiv 1N914 were used originally but 1N4001 will work if you have them on hand. They aren't critical.

Edit - you shouldn't have problems with a lamp socket. Have you tried soldering the nipple to the wire tag - sometimes this connection becomes iffy.

#1064 2 years ago
Quoted from SYS6:

Pretty much any diode will be ok. 1N4148 or it's equiv 1N914 were used originally but 1N4001 will work if you have them on hand. They aren't critical.

Edit - you shouldn't have problems with a lamp socket. Have you tried soldering the nipple to the wire tag - sometimes this connection becomes iffy.

Thanks SYS6, I had a 1N4004 diode so used that and have wired it in the same way, now the lamp comes on and it blinks on and off in attract mode but when playing it stays on when it shouldn't, it seems to blink faster when you actually have an extra ball, but it's on all the time.
I can't see why it would stay on like this, at first I thought maybe I had the diode the wrong way but I tried it swapping it around and it doesn't work at all in other orientations.

Your suggestion of wiring the nipple to the wire tag, do you mean soldering an extra wire directly onto the lamp nipple and running that through the hole on the bottom of the holder and soldering that onto the tag that has the two power wires connected?
I could give that a try if you still suggest that, but it seems that the connection is good.

#1065 2 years ago

Its likely the transistor that turns the light on and off is bad. Test it with a voltmeter and compare it to its neighbors to confirm.

#1066 2 years ago

Rat, on type 44 sockets the centre nipple is riveted to a tag to which the wire is soldered - sometimes this connection is flakey because it's only pressure holding it in place - so you can put a blob of solder over the rivet and tag to ensure good electrical connection - doesn't sound likely now from what you've described.

How's it behave in single lamp test? Any problems with other lamps in the same row or column? Run through the test routine for all in single lamp and this may reveal something.

1 week later
#1067 2 years ago

Has anybody made a custom sound ROM with the cartoon character voices?

#1068 2 years ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Has anybody made a custom sound ROM with the cartoon character voices?

Good question, areally nice pinsound mix would be nice.

#1069 2 years ago

I may be going to look at this title this weekend to purchase and I was hoping owners could alert me to specific trouble spots to look for. Any tips would be appreciated as I havent had much exposure to this particular pin

#1070 2 years ago
Quoted from msj2222:

I may be going to look at this title this weekend to purchase and I was hoping owners could alert me to specific trouble spots to look for. Any tips would be appreciated as I havent had much exposure to this particular pin

Seems like the pop bumpers are always beat and need to be rebuilt. The orher issue I would look at is "The Machine" mechanism. Make sure the VUK pops freely and that the motor spins the disc freely. Other than that mine has been problem free.

#1071 2 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Good question, areally nice pinsound mix would be nice.

Sure as hell would.

#1072 2 years ago

I just bugged PPS for plastics sets. Hope we can get them soon!

#1073 2 years ago
Quoted from pin-pimp:

I just bugged PPS for plastics sets. Hope we can get them soon!

I just need like four purple one's, it's driving me crazy.

#1074 2 years ago
Quoted from SYS6:

Rat, on type 44 sockets the centre nipple is riveted to a tag to which the wire is soldered - sometimes this connection is flakey because it's only pressure holding it in place - so you can put a blob of solder over the rivet and tag to ensure good electrical connection - doesn't sound likely now from what you've described.

How's it behave in single lamp test? Any problems with other lamps in the same row or column? Run through the test routine for all in single lamp and this may reveal something.

I just replaced the diode on this socket again (I had tried that before) and now it works as it should, not sure what I stuffed up before or why it wasn't working. Strangely it still doesn't light up in attract mode (all other lamps seem to) but it works fine during test mode and in game play.

Thanks to everyone who gave me suggestions happy day

2 weeks later
#1075 1 year ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Hot damn... your washer trick appeared to be the fix. I just hit 8 ramp shots and all went all the way around and didnt fall off. Thanks

I just got my FS on Saturday, and this was the first question I was going to ask, then stumbled upon here. I thought to myself when I looked at it, what if I just untightened the screw a bit or put a washer under it as it seemed the only place to adjust it.

Well, as you have discovered, that is the trick. All I had to do was loosen the screw. It didnt look original, so maybe it was over tightened previously. My right side was perfect, left fell off 99.9% of the time, yet the playfield everywhere is level and the machine is at the recommended 6 degs incline....

Thankyou all..

#1076 1 year ago
Quoted from Jwblocal701:

Installing a light kit from
PinballBulbs.com
Must say there kit is fantastic
[quoted image]

Hi, In your image, you have some nice Free Play Card and Rules card with Fred on it. Long shot here, but at these obtainable anywhere?

Thanks, Rob

Added 23 months ago:

To reply to my own question: I did find this website with some great/different play/pricing cards: http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/instruction/

Thanks...

#1077 1 year ago

Hi All,

Need some help/pointers in the right direction.

My DMD screen is missing the top most row and the far right column of the display. It doesnt detract too much, but I would like to try and fix it. The rest of the screen is perfect, with clarity and same brightness across all other pixels.

Im presuming this is one of the pin issues on the DMD unit itself and not a bad controller board.

Is there a document or similar that shows which pins control the matrix so I can narrow down the problem, or has someone had this issue and fixed it before.

Thanks for any pointers but please don't suggest to just buy a new DMD.. I don't like wastage and having sound Electronics knowledge, I probably more than capable of fixing the fault... But, I have never had one of these to try and repair.

Rob

#1078 1 year ago

If you look closely at the DMD, you will see very small pins at the top and side of the display, one each for every row and column. Look at the corresponding pins to the column and row you are missing and you will likely see that the pin has broken right where the pin goes into the glass. The fix is simple - just solder the pin back to the nub. The problem is, there is usually so little nub that it is very difficult to get enough solder on it to hold the pin, which is under some spring tension also.

I have had mixed success in repairing this. Sometimes the solder will hold, sometimes it will break again in a short period of time, and sometimes I just cant get the solder to hold at all. Others claim to have had success with liquid solder type applications, but I have never tried it. I usually just replace the DMD if I can't live with it.
But give repair a try. It won't hurt anything if it fails, and you might just get lucky.
PS Using a non-conductive item like a pencil, you can often push the broken pin back in place temporarily with the display on and see if the missing row or column appears. This confirms which pin is which.

#1079 1 year ago
Quoted from sbmania:

If you look closely at the DMD, you will see very small pins at the top and side of the display, one each for every row and column. Look at the corresponding pins to the column and row you are missing and you will likely see that the pin has broken right where the pin goes into the glass. The fix is simple - just solder the pin back to the nub. The problem is, there is usually so little nub that it is very difficult to get enough solder on it to hold the pin, which is under some spring tension also.
I have had mixed success in repairing this. Sometimes the solder will hold, sometimes it will break again in a short period of time, and sometimes I just cant get the solder to hold at all. Others claim to have had success with liquid solder type applications, but I have never tried it. I usually just replace the DMD if I can't live with it.
But give repair a try. It won't hurt anything if it fails, and you might just get lucky.
PS Using a non-conductive item like a pencil, you can often push the broken pin back in place temporarily with the display on and see if the missing row or column appears. This confirms which pin is which.

Thanks for your reply... I was hoping it might just be the pins because the rest of the display is perfect.... Now, I have to find some time to check it...

1 week later
#1080 1 year ago

Need some help with the Round Stand Up targets, right hand side, the ones with the Shell decal on the playfield next to them.

When I got my Flintstones (3 weeks ago) I noticed the right hand side Stand Up targets, one was a different colour (red), and the other 2 were pretty worn white ones.

I bought three, and install them this weekend.

However, although I wired them exactly as the ones that came out, the middle one (which was red) triggers the lower target, and the lower target triggers nothing.

So, this is making me wonder if it ever worked (with the Red target). Its one of those things I never ever looked at.

I have the Manual, but these are shown in any wiring diagram (Ive read it about 10 times, but I could have missed it each time)..

I haven't check the left hand ones. They are correct in that the top lights the opt shell, middle the middle shell and bottom the bottom shell.

So, my question is: does anyone have a wiring diagram for these, or a picture, or can provide assistance? Would the Left hand side just be a mirror and I could go by that? I ran out of time this weekend to continue checking, so Ive hit the web for help.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Rob

#1081 1 year ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

I just need like four purple one's, it's driving me crazy.

pinball center had some I ordered, not great but better than nothing

#1082 1 year ago
Quoted from RB0135:

Need some help with the Round Stand Up targets, .... Thanks, Rob

Rob, run through the switch test and individual lamp test modes. This may reveal something for you.

#1083 1 year ago
Quoted from SYS6:

Rob, run through the switch test and individual lamp test modes. This may reveal something for you.

Thanks, Great idea.... That actually made it more confusing and I will tell you what I found and fixed...

So, the test showed 1 (top) then 3 (bottom) and not 2. So, I checked the wiring on the other side and found, what I thought was the issue, but it was only part.

So, what I found, that #2 (the red one I mentioned) was setup as a dummy and #1 (top) was linked to #3, rather than the 2nd one and the #2 was also linked to #3. So, I fixed that by jumping 1 to 2 to 3.

Still wouldn't work correctly when the targets were hit.. Running the tests, showed the main feed that should go to the 3rd one was going to the 2nd one and the 2nd feed going to the 3rd. So, I swapped these around, and voila... All working (finally). Cant believe someone would have butchered it like this.

I know this might be confusing, but if you have seen/know the wiring for these, it will make sense.

You learn so much working on your own machine.

Now, I have to fix the Jet Bumpers as they don't do anything when the ball hits them, but thats another story.

Thanks,
Rob

#1084 1 year ago

I finally received my Flintstones. I have read almost all of the 22 pages here. I did order the 5 McDonalds Happy Meal toys for the "lost buildings". I ordered an original manual (just because I was able to find one). I have to move stuff around my basement since I have room for 12 and this will be my 13th and I have another that I am restoring for someone else. Hopefully I will get it working tomorrow. It is supposed to have LEDs. The plastics, ramps, cabinet, and playfield look good. It is supposed to have come from a "high end collector". I hope so.

I see that I can buy the alternate trans light with the cartoon characters in the car. I was hoping to find the decal overlay as shown in post 409. There is one on eBay but it looks washed out and just not as vibrant as the one in 409. Does anyone know where to buy this one? Is this a permanent decal overlay?

My wife likes this game. I owned it years ago. I am hoping she will play this more.

Thanks
Michael
IMG_4499 (resized).jpegIMG_4500 (resized).jpeg

#1085 1 year ago

Hi All.

Need some more help.

I have been doing work on the PB. I have been doing the pop bumpers.. They were a mess.

I have also been replacing the rubbers mainly on the right side of the machine.

I decided to check the one of my pop bumpers (before tackling the others), but when I turned the PB on, and selected to start a game, straight away it says "Ball Saved" and try's to load a second ball into the shoot, then it auto-fires both.

When I loose one ball, it doesnt know about the second one it fired, so it adds up the points, loads a ball, then says "Ball Saved" and the process repeats.

Obviously, I have bump some wires, etc.

So, the question is, does anyone know which sensors determine if when a ball is lost?

I have been going through the manual, but haven't found anything yet.

Thanks,
Rob

#1086 1 year ago

I bought this game, as I said, indirectly from a "collector" through Coin Op Warehouse. I am impressed that it is fairly nice condition. Batteries were dead. Replaced them and thankfully no corrosion. A few controlled LEDs out but I needed to bend the wires. A few 906 flashers needed wires bent. I cannot get the two flashers at the top left of the backbone working. Does anyone have the numbers (20. 21, etc)? I added a trough jam protector and the decal is missing from the middle pin. (Actually, not missing, the pin was turned around...) Other than these inconveniences, it plays well.
IMG_4503 (resized).jpegIMG_4505 (resized).jpeg

1 week later
#1087 1 year ago

SPINNING WHEEL - I CREATED A 3D VERSION OF IT

Hi all,

My newly required Flintstones didn't seem right when it came to the Spinning Wheel and it seem to wobble and stop and go when balls were on it.

Taking it apart, I found the wheel was stripped out where it fits on the spindle and whoever had it before, just tighten the spindle nut that tight, the surface was below the ball exit and the last ball out would get stuck.

Finding it impossible to buy, I set out with Fusion360 and designed a direct replacement for the wheel, with tight tolerances. I measured the motor spindle, the key, distance from motor to where the balls exit and other measurements.

Took a few goes to get the shaft spindle tolerances correct, but I finally have a direct replacement that now spins perfectly.

Surprisingly, the decal for the surface still seems to be available. This is the textured surface, so I didn't bother designing that in, but that might be the next version.

I printed it out on a Prusa MK3S, .20 resolution, 100% infill using black PETG (but PLA should be fine). You could even get creative and printing in any color if you wanted..

Anyone interested, I have put it up on Thingiverse. Would love to know if this helps anyone.

Here is the link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4200258

Rob

#1088 1 year ago

YES! I finally joined this club. I love the game, always have. I'm shopping mine at the moment, so no pictures yet. Will place some toys in there and gonna light the houses and the dino.
1 question:
Is the Dictabird supposed to do anything when you hit it's post? I see it has a spring and stuf, but mine doesn't move when you shoot the switch.

#1089 1 year ago
Quoted from JeanPS71:

Is the Dictabird supposed to do anything when you hit it's post? I see it has a spring and stuf, but mine doesn't move when you shoot the switch.

My Dictabird pivots when you down the left inlane feed from the rock tumbler. I think there is a switch under the buildings on the left side.

#1090 1 year ago

Mmm my bird doesn't move in game. It tries to, but it seems to lack power.
It does move in solenoid test.

#1091 1 year ago
Quoted from BioBa:

My ball still bounces off the rail and runs down the middle of the lane making the upper flipper shot very difficult if not impossible. Is this normal?
I have tried bending the side rail inwards and outwards not making any difference.

Did you get this solved. Mine is level but keeps doing the same making the bronto shot too random.

#1092 1 year ago

Anybody any idea why my bird moves in solenoid test but doesn't while playing?. I can hear the plunger moving, but it's like it doesn't get enough power.

Would alive to know how I could prevent the ball from bouncing from the right rail.

#1093 1 year ago
Quoted from RB0135:

SPINNING WHEEL - I CREATED A 3D VERSION OF IT
Hi all,
My newly required Flintstones didn't seem right when it came to the Spinning Wheel and it seem to wobble and stop and go when balls were on it.
Taking it apart, I found the wheel was stripped out where it fits on the spindle and whoever had it before, just tighten the spindle nut that tight, the surface was below the ball exit and the last ball out would get stuck.
Finding it impossible to buy, I set out with Fusion360 and designed a direct replacement for the wheel, with tight tolerances. I measured the motor spindle, the key, distance from motor to where the balls exit and other measurements.
Took a few goes to get the shaft spindle tolerances correct, but I finally have a direct replacement that now spins perfectly.
Surprisingly, the decal for the surface still seems to be available. This is the textured surface, so I didn't bother designing that in, but that might be the next version.
I printed it out on a Prusa MK3S, .20 resolution, 100% infill using black PETG (but PLA should be fine). You could even get creative and printing in any color if you wanted..
Anyone interested, I have put it up on Thingiverse. Would love to know if this helps anyone.
Here is the link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4200258
Rob

I made a custom decal with textured surface for the rock tumbler. It's pre cut to the right round shape of the disc.
IMG_20190518_125959 (resized).jpgIMG_20190814_173148 (resized).jpg

#1094 1 year ago

Also made a coin door decal. I have spare ones for $10 including postage.

IMG_20200311_094507 (resized).jpgIMG_20200312_232937 (resized).jpg
#1095 1 year ago
Quoted from JeanPS71:

Anybody any idea why my bird moves in solenoid test but doesn't while playing?. I can hear the plunger moving, but it's like it doesn't get power

Does the switch on the ramp trigger when ball goes under the buildings on the left. Use switch test mode

#1096 1 year ago

Hi Pinball Haus

Bought something from you recently... Will be buying more... Love the "Rock Tumbler" decal. Love the coin door decal, but my coin door is different, so mightn't fit...

#1097 1 year ago
Quoted from RB0135:

Hi Pinball Haus
Bought something from you recently... Will be buying more... Love the "Rock Tumbler" decal. Love the coin door decal, but my coin door is different, so mightn't fit...

Thanks! Yes my machine seems to have a Stern door. I think most other machines will have the Bally/Williams US door.
I will make a Flintstones door decal for that door down the track.

images (44) (resized).jpeg
#1098 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballdork:

Does the switch on the ramp trigger when ball goes under the buildings on the left. Use switch test mode

I took the solenoid apart but that was fine. Then I bend the little metal part under the bird.....and now the bird moves.

My wife is repainting the houses and I will put led strips in them. Put some toys in there....can't wait to show you some pics

2 weeks later
#1099 1 year ago
Quoted from BioBa:

Thanks! Yes my machine seems to have a Stern door. I think most other machines will have the Bally/Williams US door.
I will make a Flintstones door decal for that door down the track.[quoted image]

I have now the decal for the Bally/Williams door too.
Top is Stern bottom is Bally/Williams

IMG_20200330_142254 (resized).jpg
#1100 1 year ago

Anyone seen a slam tilt from multiple switch hits on the playfield? No nudging, just a couple of switch hits and boom, it went down.

There are 1,271 posts in this topic. You are on page 22 of 26.

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